nadcicle
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Posts posted by nadcicle
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Hell, part of the spider is still attached as you can clearly see.
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Just for those wondering. The issue being described that some are assuming is overpowering or playing past physical limitations is simply not that. You can tell that they are indeed cracked and not ripped. I could literally break apart the spider like potato chips in my hand.
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Holy crap. 6 times as much power, but it sure opened up lol. I see Gary throwing 2 of these in to test them out just for the hell of it.
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It took me pushing and pulling both ways to get the noise to be heard while out of the box. I couldn't figure out where the noise was coming from at first glance since all I did was press down on the sub while still inside the enclosure.
Just a demonstration:
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Trust me, very audible in a ported enclosure because the sound is amplified at low volume by the enclosure. I haven't made it common knowledge because honestly it's a defect that Q has always taken care of. I did include it in my online review, but I did not include any details.
It might be that you don't hear it because the sealed enclosure side makes it so you can't. Maybe I hear mine more because I play low volume more often than the normal basshead.
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Sombody is going to get 1 hell of a deal on the pair. If I didn't have amps everywhere I'd have gotten these.
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pmureika is spot on. The alternator will never be fast enough to put the amperage out in time to not see the fluctuation in lighting. For headlights it is something that you can solve with a set of HID's. DDM tuning is always running sales and has them for cheap to begin with and also come with a lifetime warranty. 6k should do just fine. LED's help out as well since they draw less current than the traditional filament style bulbs for domes and dash lights.
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The dd m4a is the best amp you listed there as it's definitely the better out of them all since it puts out the most power.
That goes without saying, are you sure you weren't secretly thinking about the m4 instead of the m4a cause one is around a 5k and the other is around a 7.5k amp?
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Ok sorry guys im new to this how do I delete the post so I can start over.
No worries on deleting. Just edit your first post with these bits of info and you'll be all set. Hell, it's nice stuff you're selling and I'm sure you will have no issues selling it.
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So you can not see anything I posted because it show everything for me
We see that it is a picture, but your picture does not show your username with date written on a sheet of paper along with the item is what he's saying.
Not to mention you should probably say what this is for. Like will it fit for 3g/4g model pickup trucks or an amg gremlin or what?
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On a huge scale it's like 2 tenths on a meter so if you're number chasing sure, but i mean unless it's for a world record then it's really not worth it.
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Glad I got to pick your truck for the phat truck award
Being friends with the judge helps a bit haha
FWIW I genuinely felt your truck deserved it too though.
Oh yah, my wife got 2nd with a single 15" ethos. Does that count for anything!?
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The vinyl wrap on that box was a nice touch.
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'Murica
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That's awesome. I remember you saying you were going to test one out a while back. I'm glad you got the chance finally. I definitely wish there were more options for HU with built in networking even though it's rather basic instead of needing to whip out a cord and pc each time you wanna make changes.
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While I don't condone the use of auto-eq I wanna poke fun at it a bit more. M5 where did you set the mic when you did your eq? I almost wanted to try it and took a look at the mic and first thing I thought was how it didn't look omnidirectional enough right off the bat. Besides how is a machine going to tell me what sounds good anyways? For that matter how does it know if you are using midrange/midbass and not to set lp high enough to not bottom out or low enough that it utilizes midbass. WTF does it do for horns? lol Auto-eqing worries me. I was testing 1 speaker at a time when i first set it up because right off the bat you're swapping from Front/Rear/Sub to Mid/High/low. This means if you haven't changed your speakers from front (which would normally be tweeters) to the High when changing to networking mode then you're looking at reconing tweeters right from the start. This seems to hold true with any headunits that support networking mode from what I have seen so far too. I wonder how many people put 80hz directly to their tweeters and turn them out trying to set their eq.
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I'm actually interested why you were thinking the lvl 6 would be the sub for you?
Oh, and fwiw, Murphy actually made an account here and had a legitimate conversation at one point which made me feel like he wasn't too bad. The only thing i've ever heard about them (Tantric) is some huge sub they made and the deadener isn't terrible.
As for DC, you'll find more people use their motors and ditch all the soft parts and build their own subs more often than going straight factory softparts.
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I'm glad you've been doing well with these Quentin. You definitely deserve it. I want to get my hands on a trident now. Especially after playing with the magnetar for a bit.
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Some nice thick stuff you got going on there. I watched a build log of a Jeep recently that stated that each time he thickened up panels it raised the peak frequency of his setup. I guess because the thing couldn't flex and the entire vehicle couldn't act as a passive radiator at that point. lol
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Cheese and plucking rice! What are you doing on such a system?
What any self respecting computer enthusiast does with such a system of course. Fap material...
Went through all the custom building of PC's and lucked in to an Alienware M18xR2 and never looked back. I realized after getting this laptop that I never used any of my PC's past the potential of playing the oh so graphics intensive Counterstrike Source or GO.
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Agree with bigjon here. I have only seen one lucky occurrence where I was speaking to my insurance agent that made the suggestion to a customer to use MSRP and buy as cheap as possible. Luckily after giving them the MSRP of the rims he got 200 more than what he paid for them. MSRP of rims was 3800. They only gave him 1650 and he paid right at 1500 for them.
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Lol, you're killing me. I'm pretty sure its "Singer" and not "Stinger"
lol I was going to say something but didn't want it to come off the wrong way.
Honesty is what keeps me coming back to this forum. I also like that even if someone comes off as a douchebag most people don't take it too seriously here. I know we all know what he meant, but I had to give him a hard time after seeing it more than once
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Playing around I hit like a 128 on my 6.5" door speakers getting like 100 watts a piece at 45.
That's a very low goal like SpeakerBoy said. Give us some more info about the setup and the car it's in and perhaps where you want it to meter at and I'd venture to say you should raise that goal to a 140 instead.
on what meter? iirrc the termlab wont meter anything below 130, just wondering
SPLab meter. FWIW, Termlabs also read below 130. They have a 129.9 class in dbdrag bassrace...
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Defective Spiders
in Direct Sound Solutions
Posted
These are the ones I removed when you sent me recones. The difference in the suspension from a working one and this one was night and day. This one was super loose comparably.