ILuvJDM

No turning back now, probably a waste of time doing this, but its kind of fun.

Well I build houses for a living and I know for a fact of you use great stuff to polyseal door or window jambs, it can push the door frame in and make closing the door impossible. I just know the power of great stuff, and I saw door and window version in home depot and assume that's less "strong" in the swelling power.

Would "great stuff" window and door be good for cavities? The specific area I'm talking about is the back of the truck where there is a big cavity below the rear window with a bunch of small holes. I could fill that with great stuff, but only the window and door version because I fe el the normal stuff could swell and bow the thin back wall...

Is that the ideal setup for a floor is to just lay MLV on top of CLD, 100% coverage? I see on the roof they suggest 3M stuff and not MLV

Lowes used to carry "Peel&seal" I have seen people use this before a whole lot cheaper than you "sound deadener companies" the lowes peal and seal is asphalt based wile most of your deadner compaines are butyl based...Some of the deadener is asphalt based as well..But depending on your climate conditions I would think twice In doing your "home improvent" deadening..As if you live in a warmer climate you will be dealing with a mess,and will be pissing in the wind to keep it applied to your trunk lid.ect.. If you have the budget I would suggest a reputable deadener company and butyl based material. I already bought like 200sqft of Knu 80mil deadener, but after reading SDS I realized some MLV is probably a good investment before I put my interior back together. Right now I'm just planning on 1 layer on he floor and roof. I only care about the floor and roof because those are a pain to remove, and I don't want to do it again. The doors are easy to pop off and rework. I did the front doors in 3 layers of Kno Knoise a couple weeks ago. Here's my finished doors with 2 layers on outer door and a single on the inner with holes sealed (not terrible in my opinion, but maybe some wasted material after reading SDS) Floor as of now, it started storming bad here so I had to go inside... Got my radio harness cleaned up and tested my techlfex, I love this stuff.

Any suggestions on local places to source MLV? Would a home improvement store carry anything like that or is it strictly for car audio?

That's what I've heard. I think I found the leak during my removal of the interior though. I noticed my truck only leaks when I back it into my parking spot which makes my truck face downhill and puts the bed/cab gap right under the edge of my building. I found the carpet was wet all down the passenger side of the truck and the padding actually bled colors onto the paint so I could see the path the water traveled and after some quick searches my suspicions were correct that the rear vents leak on these trucks. I plan to remove and seal off one when I sound deaden the rear wall, and I'm either going to buy a new one from the dealer or rebuild the one I removed with new rubber flaps. The little flaps are so fragile they just tear when you touch them with your finger. When I reinstall I'm going to silicone it to the back of the cab so no water can get in through the "gasket" they have on it.

great quality on the video, I love Icons as well. I just bought a new model like you have there for my new truck, very excited to get it in.

I have yet to pull a dash on any car I've owned, thank goodness. I almost did it on my Evo to do some further weight reduction but I parted it out and sold it before that.

Fix my original audio install that I didn't like, install sound deadner, remote start/alarm, finish my backup camera install, and chase a water leak I have in the truck that causes my passenger carpet to get soaked after a heavy rain. I've got the entire interior stripped now and I'm having my mom come by tomorrow and dump water on my truck while I look around inside with a flashlight to see the culprit.

Decided to get back into audio and remembered this forum from my college days. Ready to learn a lot again, I pretty much forgot everything I knew when I built my Evo IX. Here's my truck now:

Haven't read everything in detail but you can wire 2 MAW10's for 1 ohm (dual 4 IIRC) the box says 2*2ohm, but when I wired them in parallel they read 2ohms each, so that means they're dual 4ohm. So either the box is wrong or we got sold the wrong sub... after I wired them they read 2ohms each, so after hooking them up to the amp, that should have been a 1ohm final load which is what I thought it was when installing and also what I tuned it for... After he went back to college station I looked at the sub box and it said they were 2*2ohm so I freaked and thought they were wired to 0.5ohm but the box is wrong I guess. thanks again for all the help. I get paranoid as fudge when it's not my vehicle and I think I did something wrong...

alright thanks alot for the help guys

yeah Kent's explanation helped. I just did parallel instead of series. that's what working hungover gets you... it's a JBL GTO 601.1 I told my buddy to just turn the gains down about halfway where they're at now until I can get them wired right. He doesn't need to be driving around at 0.5 ohms

I have an ohm setting on the multimeter and that's what I've always used to find load... I know setting with a DMM is dangerous but it's all I have since I sold my o'scope. Right now each sub is wire in parallel then each sub is hooked into the amp (both sets of +/- are used on the amp). So how do I pair in series? I don't know why I ever tried to get into audio I'm just gonna leave it to the pros from now on.

Another dumb question... I put some Maw10s in a buddies truck and when I wired them, I did it like this diagram. But when I put a multimeter to the end of the speaker wires it said 2ohm per speaker, not 1ohm. So I thought I had 2 subs at 2ohm final load and when I wired them to the amp it would make a 1ohm load. But if that diagram is right and if the Maw10s are indeed 2*2ohms then did I wire the subs to a 0.5 ohm load? I need to know as soon as possible cause I also tuned it with a multimeter to 24.49v which was for 600watts @ 1ohm. If it is a 0.5 ohm final load on the amp then I need to know so I can tell him to turn the gain down until I get a chance to rewire them... I'm confused yet again. cause it needs to be like this, correct? But in this picture it shows one sub getting power through the other one. I'm wiring them both to the amp, which is a series connection internally, right? So whatever each sub reads for final load I would divide that by 2 and that's what the amp is seeing, correct? So I need to make each sub have a load of 4ohms and then when I wire them to the amp it'll be 2ohms?

I recommend it

Who can I talk to about ordering a Pioneer D3 from SSA? I'm ready to get one and I wasn't sure if I should just order from the online store or if there's someone on here that can get good deals and is a dealer for Pioneer. I know they were doing a $200 rebate a month ago and I assumed that was in anticipation of getting rid of old D3 units in hopes that they were getting a replacement. I know the F series came out, so is that the replacement? -John

problem fixed everything works perfect now except a chitty ground making a nice whine through the system.

Remote wire to the amps is put into the power antenna, not the external power. Had the same issue. J I have stock BOSE door speakers with a factory amplifier though. Radio works perfect, both sub and door speakers work but when I switch to CD or iPod only subwoofer plays (just bass line no vocals). I assume there's a setting somewhere that I'm just completely missing?

well there's always problems... Just finished installation of the Pioneer D3. Radio works fine, but when I try iPod or CD there's no vocals, only my subwoofer works. Any tips/suggestions?

alright, it makes sense that all these wires would match up, I just wanted to make 100% sure before I ruin something. PLus both harnesses follow CEMA wiring color codes, so they should be the same.

I copy and pasted this from another forum for a quicker response, let me know if you guys can help out Pioneer D3 going into a 2003 ext. cab silverado using the PAC C2R-GM24 Wanted to run this by you guys one last time. I'll be installing it tomorrow but I wanted to get the wiring done tonight so I can just plug and play with a few exceptions... All the quick disconnects are for the speakers. The PAC harness (on the right in the picture) came with male RCA connectors on those wires, but I cut them off and put the quick disconnects so I could connect to the Pioneer Harness (on the left in the picture). In the picture: 1.) yellow from Pioneer to PAC is the 12v constant. Those 2 wires need to be connecting like in the picture correct, or do I need to run a wire straight to the battery? I assumed in the truck side of the harness that there was a 12v constant and that's what the PAC unit has and that's what the Pioneer harness will use for power to the headunit, correct? 2.) red is the power accessory which I can also connect in both harnesses correct? 3.) Here's the main problem, I have 2 orange wires on the PAC harness. One is color matched to the Pioneer side (orange/white) and says "dimmer" the other is just solid orange and says "illumination". I assumed I would want the dimmer right, otherwise the screen would stay really bright at night, right? 4.) blue (antenna control) does this need to be hooked together from PAC-Pioneer? The PAC side of it says "power antenna" so I assume they're the same thing. 5.) black will be grounded 6.) green/pink/purple will go to their respective positions. Only unused wire as I have it wired is the solid orange (illumination) wire. Please respond with the numbers of the question so I know what you're referring to, thanks in advance. -John

Quick shipping, my harness hasn't even come in yet and the D3 is already here Thanks again SSA! -John