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Should I have him sign a waiver or something or just stay away all together?

Question for you guys that might do audio installs on the side. I have a co-worker who wants me to do a full audio install in his 03-06 GMC extended cab truck. I know these trucks very well and told him I could put him together a great sounding setup for way cheaper than the local "custom shop" that quoted $4500-$5000. My work would include: big 3, sound deadening and sealing doors, head unit with steering control harness, component install with tweets in the a pillars, subwoofer install and dual amps with all wiring. Everything would be soldered, heat shrinked, techflex wrapped and mounted solid. What is a good price for install? It will probably take me a full weekend to do it right with my level of OCD and how neat I like my stuff to be. I was thinking $500-$750 lump sum price. FYI, I make about $33/hr at my job for comparison of what my time is worth.

Tough to see in the picture but I got the kitchen and dining all edged up, ready for a roller soon. I plan to do all the edging in the rooms I'm painting and then come through with a roller and knock out the wall space in a day or less.

What kind of base and brand of paint you using?Valspar signature series, $35/gallon. It was just technique error. I wasn't using the right nap on the rollers. It looks much better now that I have a 3/8" nap roller and lather that thing up with up. I also bought a really nice Wooster pro brush last night that does great edging as well as filling in texture.

My mom did my cut in without tape, she's damn good at it. I was rolling the walls and the paint wet looks the same color as the current wall color so it really made it a pain to tell if you're getting good coverage. Sure enough, after it dried and darkened up I could see white spots where the paint didn't get into the texture. The roller I was using was cheap and didn't have long enough fibers on it so it was pretty much just rolling across the surface of the texture. I had to re-roll 3 walls and I was pretty pissed after that, but it looks great now with 100% coverage. Learning experience for sure, the last time I painted was 2005...

I forgot how much fun painting is...

wasting no time diving into the house. Only have a few days to get it up to par to my tastes before I move in

So here is my setup in the back of my crew cab: You can follow the blue 4ga OFC and see the power inputs for the amp. My question is in regards to the ground. Right now the 100.4 (on the left) is grounded to the bolt you can see through the carpet almost under that amp. The 1000D is not hooked up yet, but I don't really think a run of 4ga to that same bolt is a good enough ground. Do you guys agree? I was originally planning to put a bolt through the floor right under the 1000D and ground both there, but the fuel tank is directly below that amp. I have 4ga OFC as well as some spare 1/0 CCA. Here are the options I see: A) Get a 1/0 to 4ga reducer for the ground input and run 1/0 CCA to that same ground bolt I'm already using. B) use a bolt on the back wall instead of the floor and run both to that, which would make the sub amp run like 10" or less. The idea here is to make the ground for the 1000D as short as possible for the power it pulls, and the 100.4 can be longer than the sub amp since I'm only using around 50w on my front passive components.. Correct?

I'll check some local audio shops and see if anyone has that, looks perfect.

I think your over thinking it man. Just grab a distribution block and try it. Should be fine. What I meant was a slightly longer run of 1/0 should be as good as a short 4ga ground. The distribution block I want is sold out on Knuconceptz, damn. I might just run a 1/0 ground for now then buy the distro block when they're back in stock.

Yeah that's my issue is I want both to be grounded at the same point. I'll look into a distribution block, but would a 18" run of 1/0 CCA be enough to ground the amp?

Both are just factory bolt studs that either held spare tire tools or held the plastics in place. I would like to use a bolt through the body, but couldn't find a good place to put it since the fuel tank is right under the sub amp

Here is the bolt on the back wall under the sub amp I was referring to in option B And here is the current ground for the 100.4

Speaking of A/C issues, my girlfriend was having issues it was blowing hot air and so I told her to do a few easy things like check her cabin filter and other small stuff. Well after two days she decides to come to my apartment for me to look at it and halfway here she realized her A/C button wasn't pushed. I never mentioned it to her because I just assumed she tried that haha.

do you have a step into the house or is the threshold on the same grade as your garage floor? Part of the bumps purpose is protect from water intrusion as well

Wait, it is longer in fwd than rev??Congrats on the house btw. thanks, I'm very excited to tear into the house. I build houses for a living so I already have a laundry list of things to do to make it how I want Yeah the truck coming in forward hits the tire stop and is about 6" from the wall, but that isn't enough to get the rear bumper within the garage door tracks. If I back it in I would hit the wall before the tire bump, but I'll put some 2x material there to make a tire bump that I hit before the wall. It's a lesser of two evils thing, but I'll probably go with backing it in since I won't have to modify the truck at all. I really don't like roll pans and installing one just to be able to pull into the garage seems like a dumb thing to do. I've never seen a concrete tire stop before. Didn't even notice it in the picture, lol.Amusing since I looked at over 300 houses before buying this one and have since probably at least seen 200 more. interesting, I wonder if it's just a southern thing, but it's usually 30 - 36" from the wall. Now it also depends on ADA requirements in the City of Austin with their visitibility stuff, if they deem the garage to house door as the handicap access for the home.

Wait, it is longer in fwd than rev??Congrats on the house btw. thanks, I'm very excited to tear into the house. I build houses for a living so I already have a laundry list of things to do to make it how I want Yeah the truck coming in forward hits the tire stop and is about 6" from the wall, but that isn't enough to get the rear bumper within the garage door tracks. If I back it in I would hit the wall before the tire bump, but I'll put some 2x material there to make a tire bump that I hit before the wall. It's a lesser of two evils thing, but I'll probably go with backing it in since I won't have to modify the truck at all. I really don't like roll pans and installing one just to be able to pull into the garage seems like a dumb thing to do.

Got the keys to my first home today and the first thing I do? Check to see if the LBZ fits in the garage. It fits if I back it in, but can't pull forward unless I get a roll pan and lose the rear bumper. Never been a fan of roll pans on lifted trucks but I'll think about it... Both ways have their pros and cons, in the morning if I pull in forward I can let it warm up without filling the garage with diesel and probably making a black spot on the wall. Pulling in backwards makes it easier to get in and out since the drivers door would be by the garage to house door.

Sounds like you'll have plenty of time between to plan builds and order parts so when you're home you can get to work

Who's doing the work on the car? Make sure before you throw money at the car that it is indeed a bad unit. For example on my truck the speed sensors always show 3mph since they require voltage to operate and never get to 0mph on the tech2 scanner. To the untrained eye seeing 3mph sitting still would be a huge red flag but in this case it's normal. ABS light can also mean bad wheel bearing so I would jack the vehicle up and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and rock the wheel to see if there's movement. It only takes a little wobble to make the ABS sensor lose signal and even a millisecond of lost signal will trigger the ABS light/code. I'll be doing any work on the vehicle. I'll double check everything before hand. I've installed too many wheel bearings for the truck (damn lift that requires offset wheels). Wheel bearings are not my friend either, but gotta pay to play I guess.

yeah I realized that after I already bought 160sqft of deadener... back before I started this project I did a ton of research on deadening and it usually brought me to older threads, some of which were on here. Back in the day the preferred method was what I did here with 100% coverage and sometimes double or triple layers, but apparently methods and science have changed since late 2000's. Since I already had the deadener, I just decided to do 100% coverage and according to the knuckle test it helps resonance on the panels with 100% coverage better than just 25%. This might not apply to actual music or any actual scientific testing, but I did notice a difference by ear so I went ahead and finished what I started. This was my first time deadening so like any project, I learned a lot and will use a different strategy going forward. Thanks for the compliments though, I try to pull of quality work with everything I do

How is the Kno Knoise? Is that Kolossus or resonance control? Resonance control. I've never installed other deadener so I can't do any kind of comparison, but this stuff was very easy to use and pretty thick. I don't have any speakers hooked up yet but from the knuckle test on the panels it sounds much better. I foam filled the voids on the back wall so it gives a nice thud instead of a symbol crash... Here's a progress pic from Saturday that shows what kind of coverage I did on floor and roof. The c pillars and back wall were untreated at the time of this picture

Who's doing the work on the car? Make sure before you throw money at the car that it is indeed a bad unit. For example on my truck the speed sensors always show 3mph since they require voltage to operate and never get to 0mph on the tech2 scanner. To the untrained eye seeing 3mph sitting still would be a huge red flag but in this case it's normal. ABS light can also mean bad wheel bearing so I would jack the vehicle up and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and rock the wheel to see if there's movement. It only takes a little wobble to make the ABS sensor lose signal and even a millisecond of lost signal will trigger the ABS light/code.

Got more work done last night

I paid a guy like $200 one time in college to detail my black truck which included polishing, it came out great but the price was steep for me in the long term. I decided to buy a DA starter kit for about the same price and now I do all my own stuff. Having a 2500HD as a DD means I haven't even touched it with a buffer yet, but I will this summer. Here's some side/side on my Evo IX I did a few years ago: