shizzzon

you know after seeing that last pic of you lifting.. i'm re-considering on building a concrete enclosure because i think i found the guy that can help me put it in the vehicle, hehe.

the side airspace is extremely low! Something i did to a buddy's car a while back in a scenario like this was to turn the subs firing to the driver side. Now, his enclosure was ported to the side so we had it - subs firing driver side, port firing back.. It did great on the meter. If your port is in the middle, i don't know what will happen.. We did this because the box was so large so we literally placed it right down the middle of the trunk from seats to bumper. I'd try that if it will fit.

you may have to have a ported enclosure built inside the trunk if you do not think you can slide one in there. And whoever told you you needed a sealed enclosure based on what you told us is either biased or completely misunderstood your goals for 2 reasons- 1- he just wants money 2- he isn't intelligent in this hobby.

^^ that's a small incentive in dealing with international business. Nobody else has that kind of access i'm aware of. Is it possible you, some other company, etc can offer a service to provide tracking using this method?

the cheapest ones that are identical to the "standard" are just a hair over $400. I'd be surprised if a shop actually lets you walk off with their product and take it back to your house... When testing SPL, you can measure between 5-50x a day depending on what you are doing.. And we compete all year around changing things..

first thing you need is an SPL Meter. Without that, there is no way to gauge small increases in pressure and it's hard to tell the difference between amplitude increase vs frequency shifting to the ear.

i still haven't received any tickets or anything? is that normal? How am i suppose to prove i paid via team?

better call Slam Specialties and see if they make some air springs for a Durango capable of being filled to 465,000 PSI with a weight rating of 6.4 million lbs. I'm sure someone can custom make some struts too so the ride is smooth.. Look on ebay.. Hell, these are probably just bolt on kits.

This is probably the best battery you can get in terms of getting the largest. You may want to tell us your dimensions in your vehicle to see if you can fit this- http://www.popsci.com/science/article/2012-01/china-builds-worlds-largest-battery-36-megawatt-hour-behemoth

I'm all alone in here..

Because it's made out of the country. Everything produced by buildhouses is so generalized because they supply to 10s or 100s of brand names that all share the same basic operation. There is no need to change the wording as it's a minor flaw with perfection i guess you could say.

The car was totaled. It had body damage but the ability to repair meant to destroy the wall, and because the unibody slammed into concrete destroying the side of it, concluded immediate Total Loss.

Just to let everyone know. This build has been destroyed. It is over. A new vehicle has been purchased- a used 2008 Scion xB. The same vehicle as what liljestrand uses. As of right now, i am working heavily on front stage and low labor bass installation. When i get there, the box will be something none of you have ever seen before in terms of capabilities of what the box can do on the meter. It's a street box. I have been following Dr Boom and liljestrand on what they've done with their vehicles so if i choose to go all exotic again, it will not be nothing like what they've done to prevent from copying. I have already done research though on what's needed in case i do decide to do it again.. A new build log will NOT be made due to the inability of me having time to keep it updated. I will rather post random pics in the SPL-Lab section whenever i do something.

i dont know.. How are you going to recone those? They look upside-down?

i'm not drunk, but buzzed pretty good... On my 3rd Bacardi Razz + coke.. The simple mixes are sooooo good, I haven't had Razz in so long.. damn.. i miss it, but not anymore, hehe. I was recently doing 100proof hot damn and coke.. while GOOD!, it always gave me stomach pains the next day. 151 does that sometimes but i dont envy 151 because of it's non-flavor compared to others i use for simple mixes.

the best way to learn is to make mistakes. That's with any hobby. I am not implying you are making a mistake, but what you are doing is something custom. Anything custom is unique and only you will learn from it whether it be advantageous to you or not, it doesn't matter. Knowledge is knowledge.

I'd rather not say because my opinion isn't fact.. I run XS Power because i compete and need instantaneous power. For just daily driving, literally any AGM battery will work for automotive\audio use. The most recent good G31 batt is the Diehard Platinum.

First of all thanks for not forgetting about me Second holy crap that is an awesome price but I can forsee a few issues: I'm only gonna be running 1 190A alt. Plus where would I find a fuse holder that would fit that size wire + grommets to go through firewall and terminals for battery. Seems like overkill but for that price its berry tempting... I use terminalized fuse holders. No wire insert fuse holders. Plus, you'd have to leave the protective casing off of them for the terminals to fit onto the posts. Use this- http://www.thewireszone.com/p-5211-bullz-audio-banl1010p-02-gaugeawg-anl-fuse-holder.aspx Just leave casing off. Just a quick random question... why go for 4/0 when the 1/0 or 2/0 are rated for 600V all the same???? If it can carry the same current then why go bigger I guess is what I'm asking EDIT: I noticed they have different "AMP" ratings... but what does that really mean ? Knukonceptz cable is equal to 2/0 cable. Cable i listed is equal to 4/0 obviously, lol. The 4/0 will handle more current than 2/0 by a bit. Even though Knu says up to 350, the actual standard for 2/0 is around 290A where 4/0 is 390A. when used on shorter runs, yes, all cable can handle more current. The goal here is to reduce voltage drop and a single run of larger cable can do this effectively. Not to hijack the thread but say you drive a Unibody vehicle where would you ground? For batts in the rear, i connect a ground cable either directly off alternator bolt post, or the next closest thing to the alternator to a point on the frame somewhere.. I then attach front to rear ground from that same point and run it to the back battery bank.

bassclub forum is SPL-Lab's Official forum over there in that country. Also, slowed down music is just for that low end bass.. What if you could get that low end bass without slowing the music down at all? that is where i come in.. If you want the many songs i've done.. Go to Slamology, father's day weekend in Indianapolis. I have hundreds but do not share them online anymore.

Instead of me reading all that, this is what i do- PS- i know you are still waiting for tones link, i haven't forgot about you. I just have lots to do right now. For front to rear wiring- Whatever cabling the alternator needs, double up on it for power. IE- you have a 250A alt, i'd use 2 2/0 cables from front to rear for power.. However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables. http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable. Next, grounding to frame in the rear. Literally do as many as you can. I typically do 3-6 2/0 cable grounds to frame. For front to rear GROUND- I suggest 1 run of 4/0 cable(because of cheap price) PER alternator. If you have batts in the rear, the Big 3 can be shrunk somewhat.. Ground cable for starting battery can be as small as 8awg(added on, not replaced) Alt to batt still should be big as possible. Alt ground should be as big as possible and run to frame somewhere close by that will then run to rear of vehicle.

i had some minor issues with my XLs not liking 3k per sub over 40sec at a time.. I attenuated it to a non-clipped output and would start stinking after 2min.. so i gave up, lol.. This is M1s.. hopefully M2s are better.

I can't wait..

lol.. i hope this wasn't an advantageous suggestion in the view of the OP.. I would fall dead right now.

did you measure both sides of the fuse during a LARGE load on the alternator or just at rest? You need to make sure a lot of current is passing through it so it can generate resistance in the fuse\fuse block if any exists.