shizzzon

Oh i know what you mean. It frustrates me just on how each translation side has a different set of products.. Like it was originally with SPL-Lab, it will be up to the distributor, or I, to take care of the customer. That is NOT the job of the distributor in this sense but i am used to it and do not mind sharing the proper information, in ENGLISH to customers. From talks with them in the last few months, it appears they have just randomly changed shape and target as many countries as possible to get their products outside of SA and to the rest of the world and to do this, do that, etc.. IT sounds like an organization plan without an ETA of any definite organization. It's possible it's happening in real time so no one actually knows when this will be done and this other thing will be done, etc.. If it starts to really become a problem, I'll address it but in the meantime, I should have the information necessary to help anyone with their products when we start distributing.

This is the thing.. They distribute to 13 other countries besides themselves and have been doing so rapidly. But like your point of view points out, there are convenient limitations one takes for granted when getting amps built out of the country. These, you can clearly tell all the way to your doorstep. I translate many things for SPL-Lab and am willing to do so with them as well.. The funny thing is all of their downloadable manuals cannot be edited because they are not typed. So, it would be hell translating that but it is possible.

Hmm.. I like to work on computers. How did you ever come across that information? Interesting..

Unfortunately, all of their manuals are in Portuguese. If anyone notices, they really do need to expand their webmaster support as only the Portuguese side has and maintains the most up to date information compared to spanish and english translation. And like i said before, there is no translations for ANY of their products. I am used to this for SPL-Lab but luckily, both SPL-Lab and Taramps do speak some English so rapid communication is possible if i need immediate conversation.

Well, i am not a hardware engineer.. I'm assuming you aren't either.. but the parts they use are different than most amps because they use half bridge technology. Remember this. You cannot compare the internals of half vs full in the way people compare 1 5k to another 5k based on layout on the board. If you want to know what SA customers use their amps for? It's mainly for midbass\midrange all facing out of the vehicle. The HD and T line are specifically optimized to get LARGE amounts of low end bass out of them. There is an unpublished frequency. It's between 60-80hz. Somewhere in there is when these amps ramp their output back some. So, from 5hz - 60-80hz, you will see tremendous current draw, but also with the highest efficiency as well. The 20k is rated to put out close to 1900A @85% efficiency @12.6v. Once you go above the 60-80hz range up to 15KHz(if using for midrange), the output power is cut back in half. This is what max music power consumption means. It's half the maximum current draw of material below the 60-80hz range.

Most South American amps use a technology called Full Bridge. Most Korean and Chinese amps use a technology called Half Bridge. But as these companies have been using the same tech for years(Taramps since 1999), if it were not stable, why still use it? Why manufacturer over 180,000 products per year and not go bankrupt? Because they work. I would not sell anything I wouldn't use myself. I have basically interrogated them over the phone about manufacturing quality and defective % and in the end, I cannot get any negative feedback. Prior to 2011, Taramps was having issues with an amp line that is now mostly discontinued. I believe over 20 amps were discontinued and the HD line was created, SMDs are now being used, greater T line amp power, etc.. They keep on excelling every year. Taramps typical power supply range is - 10.5-15v or 10.5-16v Multichan amps are 9-16v or 8-16v Stetsom and SounDigital gave South American amps a bad rep and even Taramps lines prior to 2011 as well. Stetsom's new 2KE line is as stout as Taramps product lineup is now but for the cost and reputation, we choose Taramps. If you need high power from ~3,000-23,000w, Taramps is the choice we have chosen to distribute.

Oh and grumby, do not look at the high voltage lines.. like the 30-50kw amps. We will not be importing them unless it's for special order only. You will never be able to run them in a car and keep your batts charged (100-400vDC) depending on model. Unless you already have a LARGE power supply bank, this is extremely expensive battery-wise.

We are not announcing pricing prior to our Grand group buy But i will say the HD line of amps like the 8K (which is a 10,000w @14.4v ) is roughly 10w PER $1. Think about that.. The T line 10.9k, 14.2k and 20.2K is roughly 7-12w per $1.. Why are the amps so cheap? Taramps is their OWN buildhouse and are the largest audio company down there. They move in such extreme bulk, it keeps cost down to a level that is just not seen normally in the US market. As of 2011, Taramps also started doing SMD, Surface Mounted Devices, which has excelled them in South America to the top.

There are 4 amplifier brands in South America that are well known. Banda SounDigital Stetsom Taramps Taramps is the LARGEST audio company in South America. With over 250 Employees in this facility moving over 15,000 products per month in 14 different countries, they are definitely here to stay! All of their amps are.. now pay close attention to what i say here- All of their amps are full range Class D amps* Full range for high powered bass amps go up to 5 or 15KHz. This is good for those wanting to use massive power for midbass and midrange. Their amps are far more efficient that other amps. Korean\Chinese amps efficiency ratings are done at 4ohms. Taramps HD line is 74% efficient @1ohm! and ALL power ratings are down at 12.6v Taramps T line is 85% efficient @1ohm! and ALL power ratings are down at 12.6v Low voltage shut off is set at 10.5v with Power supply failing below 10.2v Low impedance shut off is 0.31ohms. Repair facility is based in New York. Amps come with 1yr warranty. We will be the only distributor in the USA offering incentives and extra hardware with their equipment and for less than the current distributors do either to their customers. When we distribute for a company, we become part of their business in a way to help them get bigger. We do this with SPL-Lab and will do this with Taramps.

What do you want to know.. Hint my Avatar. Distribution begins in 2 months.

Yep and i will go even further and say doubling power has never seen a 3db gain in the competition scene. And yes, i am even talking about going from low power to moderate power, nothing crazy which would lead to power compression, etc.. Typical gains i've witnessed in many setups by doubling either amplifier rated power or doubling the current draw is between 1.9-2.3db.

I did but with a tape measure.. I use the specs in sketckup to get my router point locations to a T

Tomorrow i might start routing out speaker holes.. 24 holes needed to be routed with a precision of no worse than 1/16" diameter. Also.. it appears i need to start removing the passenger seat and entire center console because the baffle is SO LARGE, i can't get it in the vehicle. Relax.. this is more for testing fitment than completing the build. Weather is getting colder and is slowing me down. trying to get everything cut now before it gets too cold.

Can you check and see if this is right- If i remove the gasket on all the subs, is the outer diameter 15.375" (15 3/8")? I'm pretty sure it is, but gotta know so i know which "route" to take

I have been trying to research this but the answers i get are from one extreme to another. I have been told not to talk to my insurance company about this so i do not know who to actually talk to, ask, etc to assume the information i get is accurate. So, hopefully someone on here and tell me or lead me to the answers. I am curious about disconnecting the Air Bag Compressor on the top passenger side of the car. IF this thing deploys, it will only cause more harm than good. I'll leave the driver side connected and steering wheel connected, just passenger side compressor i want off. I get answers from insurance wont cover me if i get in a wreck. It's legal to disconnect without worry I will get fined $2500 if insurance finds out or if police find out If i unplug the compressor, there is a high chance the air bags WILL deploy So you see.. i give up on researching this myself.

Ok, this is based on policy rules and I was talking with Progressive about this- They said to be insured, if your STATE still requires Emission testing every year, then Air Bags must be in full working order during that test. If your current STATE does not do these tests anymore, then you can be insured even with them fully disabled. Adjuster information- I only talked with a property adjuster. So far, there is nothing in their policy which states your claim would be voided under any circumstance by having any or all of them disconnected. They are contacting me back in a few days to discuss with personal bodily injury adjusters and manager about this issue.

danp, i'm on the phone right now secretly with the insurance company... So far, it IS legal to still have it insured.. Waiting for more info.. hold on.. Edit.. other things apply.. just a sec

If lengthening the port doesn't do it, run just 2 subs, 1 per side and turn it down some and see how that sounds. I would say just unplug one amp but am afraid because port is in the middle that one chamber will react differently than the other because of that.

Oh good. U have an ammeter. Do that. And fusing just doesnt pop immediately.. its based on multiple variables. Most high amperage ANL fuses are rated for 10, 000a for 0.1seconds

I love lamp

You could have received a dual 2ohm by mistake. Measure the resistance and see what it says. Also at the least, the fuse should be discolored, otherwise your crossover points are too narrow or you just arent pushing it enough. The 2000d in my friends vehicle pulls 245a on 150a without blowing it for daily wired at .35ohms

IF port area is a problem, increase baffle size and decrease depth.

when inverting these subs, should the mounting diameter be enlarged slightly? I see the hole should be 14 1/8".. should it be enlarged to like 14 3/16" when inverted?

Need to start contacting some companies soon so i can figure out with this new vehicle i have if custom springs are possible or if i'm stickin to to custom air this time around. I really dont wanna do air as i didn't allocate space for that..

This is the reason why they never put them on the website until the M2s came out. No need to custom build them anymore.. Also, there is a guy on caco running a 9k amp PER Lvl6 without issues. the Lvl6 is BETTER than the Lvl5 and vice versa. It depends on your goals. ~45hz and below, the Lvl6 will dominate. ~45hz and above, the Lvl5 will dominate. This is referencing meter scores. I'd personally get the BTL because of the price but i'd only even think about the Lvl6 if it's an M2 version.