shizzzon

Empire wire and supply sells it the cheapest. Acdcelectricparts is their ebay store bulk order name for another ~10% off.

disable all your security. Maybe a recent update screwed things up.

Looks like we just got a review of all kinds of wire in that last post, hehe. Welding cable thickness.. regardless that it uses larger guage strands, it still must conform to the standard. It still fits in the proper terminal\insert, etc it is made for. flexibility- CCI's Royal Excelene dominates that area. Corrosion.. True.. i cant argue with that.

That knu is CCA which voids itself in performance with everything else... The Welding Cable 2/0 and Diymas cable look to be the largest.. however, i do not know what kind of cable Diyma is but i can tell you that welding cable will ALWAYS give you the best bang for your buck because it's pure copper, properly sized and simply the cheapest cable out there. 4/0 cable for less than $4/ft shipped. Not even Skyhigh's cable is that cheap and it's the only 4/0 car audio cable i know of.

In that case, i'd love to hear what he'd have to say about being able to repair 10kw+ Half Bridge amps. The parts used in these amps are usually only accessible through the company who builds them themselves and are only sent to their authorized repair centers. The reason for this is H-bridge isn't so common yet it's still used in the absolutely largest amps on this planet and parts for them are rare access to those who need to repair them. There are only 2 facilities i know of in the US who either know how to do it or have access to do it. That would be a challenge for him.

A company tries to expand to the US... They allow dealers PER STATE... One such dealer sells to any state but pays no website, advertising, etc ... bends the rules to get his name out there(he's not on this site). He sells for almost no profit.. The company has distributors who are trying to get the company big.. THEY WONT SUCCEED with this dealer in the mix.. He's basically screwing it up for everyone.. He's acting as a distributor but isn't and is a dealer who is suppose to be territorial but isnt.. Everyone refers them to him which is even worse because the distros who dont know this is going to be in financial problems when they find out nobody wants to buy products from them because they will be forced to sell higher.

I am so pissed right now.. Business world POV.. Chuck knows what i'm talking about.. I swear.. some people screw it up for everybody..

if anything, most vehicles today can get away with a tablet instead of an actual carpc(external case). I plan on installing a tablet as a secondary source for everything.. but even though i am techy.. until my current double din of 6yrs dies, i'll continue using an actual car HU simply because it integrates with the vehicle's stock wiring and accessories and turn on time is instant. Until i have time to research how i can integrate cameras, wheel controls, dual zone capability and integration with cameras how HUs do, then i'll stick with HUs.. Not saying it can't be done, i just havent researched it yet.

For future reference, do the following when wiring up an amp- Remove fuse from inline fuse holder. Connect Power and Ground cables in any order. The last thing required at this point to power on is to put the fuse in the inline holder. Take a pair of insulated pliers and tap the holder with the fuse. Do not let the fuse fall onto the holder. IF the fuse holder sparks, then that is normal. If the fuse holder ARCS, then that is bad! If you cannot tell, tap the fuse against the holder again. If it ARCS again at the same magnitude or greater, then something is grounding out. It wont help you now but for future reference.. it lets you know to check your wiring before you damage something.

No.. You have less chance of clipping by Keeping the Input Voltage below maximum input sensitivity. As long as the preout voltage is greater than the minimum input sensitivity range which on most amps is 150-250mv, then you are fine. that is what the gain is for on the amp at this point. Unless you have unwanted noise being produced in the amp because the gain needs to be on max for it to work effectively then line driver never necessary. Line drivers are typically used when running many many many amps off the same output section..

You need an AMMETER to measure current. If you are going to do math on paper then you will never get real world results and your troubleshooting will be flawed. I am now curious how you are doing other troubleshooting if it's based on paper as well.

An alternator is not designed to charge a battery. It can only maintain them. There is no regulator to properly charge batteries off of an alternator. So it outputs a constant current that the battery will accept. It will decrease the amount of current to the battery because of the battery's doing but will never stop. It's like a trickle charger that never stops. The only reason why it doesnt kill the battery under long durations is because of the lower voltage. Now, if you do what some other people do and FIX their regulators to a set, for example, 14.8v, then put their battery under the hood where the ambient temp around the batt is warmer than in the car and you go driving for long distances, it will swell the battery from overcharging. Temperature and charge voltage go hand in hand. Higher the temp, lower the voltage needs to be. Alts have a Cold and Hot rating. They are typically only cold the first 2 minutes when car is first started.

lol.. no.. to calculate impedance, you must measure voltage and current. Impedance changes with frequency. Now, we will allow you to measure these with a dmm and ammeter in real time, not with peak hold.. Even though it's not 100% accurate, it will not be off by a factor that would be the conclusion of 600w vs 3,000w.. it's far from being that inaccurate.

I have more than 1 app that streams live radio in our country in practically any city you can think of and for other countries as well so using a tablet isn't going to lose the radio.. Hell, as a matter of fact, using a tablet for radio will give you better reception, lol.

Jon and quentin have it right. For a generalized answer for those to remember- ANY time a power cable is terminated(connected to something.. ) it will need a fuse for safety. Every time a cable is terminated, fuse it. The only exception to this that is not necessary is when paralleling batteries within the it's own bank. IF they are all next to each other, the likelihood of one of those cables grounding is practically improbable.

All installs i have had.. others i know.. competitors, etc.. this is normal in a vehicle tuned the way you are. 4th Bandpasses have the ability in a vehicle to literally open the play range. This sounds opposite of what you would expect but i do not think all of the BPs i've heard are the rarest out there and all the ported enclosures i've heard and built around this country are all wrong. You could do a BP but it's not easy. Simply put, it's the acoustical gain in a vehicle. You want to overcome it? you need high efficiency or peaks in your response where you are lacking output.. IE- above 50hz. Tuning a 4th order BP or even a 6th which is harder can offer 2 main peaks in the response. Allowing the response to "saddle shape" in between the 2 peaks right in the playable range your vehicle is efficient at will audibly net you a smooth flat output response. It's not easy as to just throw it in and it's fixed.. You need equipment to do this right. I'm not the BP guy to talk to but if any are here who build them that are here, i'm sure they can help you out.

Just curious.. Do you know how long Fedex tracking numbers are good for? If it's 30days.. then will you receive new numbers for us to view when they start moving?

Stetsom is the most efficient amp brand i know of if you are literally referencing efficiency of power draw to power output. High output Stetsom amps that are still 12v have typical efficiency levels at their lowest ohm loads in the low, mid to high 80% whereas others are typically 10% below that. However, Stetsom's business capability in the USA is not so efficient as they are hit n miss in both customer service AND DESIGN Quality control. Because of this, i cannot ever recommend them until they change their business strategy.

Julian 2 1" layers? I have never built any of my walls like that mainly because to save weight but i also do not compromise enclosure integrity either. Where there is only 1-2 layers of 3\4" wood, it is made up with bracing. In my vehicles, i actually use the frame of the vehicle in most places as the bracing so it can't flex out so basic internal bracing with 2x4s and some steel is all that is necessary. Stiff as can be once completed and never a problem. My first wall i built, i intentionally made it single later with minimum bracing so i can see how long it would last and what would fail.. Once i got this information, i changed what type of glue i use, fasteners and design method. Now i can use minimal wood without compromising design integrity to save weight. As or speakerboy, i would say not to do a wall. I would design a street box to fit from the B pillar if you need to all the way back. And as bassahaulic said as well, walls and batts do not decrease mpg all that much. In my last car, i had ~1350lbs added and i STILL got the same mpg in the city, i just lost about 8mpg on the highway. But with weight period, watch the level of your vehicle. If the top of the tires starts to get lost, stop adding weight or upgrade suspension. Suspension is typically weakest link in weight ratings. suspension(and everything else tied into it), brakes, engine, transmission, chassis.. all account for rating.

Team IAK already has a few in the Indianapolis area but if you need one, I strongly urge you to contact me, SPL-Lab USA, for SPL measuring equipment for this particular thread. If you need any RTA measuring, we excel in devices for that as well. IF you are going to be at World Finals, I will have several meters there to test with outside of enjoying the show.

Yea but you know you still like it better than paying someone else to do it.. Your experience far exceeds someone else's preference who's only been doing it for less than 3 yrs. We all like the feeling of knowing exactly how everything is ran and connected so if a problem arises, there are no surprises to be found.

yep. The deeper the discharge, the lower the DOD obviously as that's what that means. Doing this all the time, like daily listening will result in shortened battery life. By the word THIS I mean discharging the battery allowing it to dig deeper into it so that you could save some money on not buying another battery. I compete. I'll dig into the low 11s if i need to. I only do this maybe 10-20x a year. That's nothing compared to worst case scenario DOD which for AGMS can still be several hundred cycles before battery is completely impossible to sustain it's normal resting position any longer.

I have to "launch" my walled vehicles so i do not burn out every time i go to take off. The front end is lifted higher than normal because of weight distribution so i always have to get a rolling start before i drive normally.

ugh.. this is hard to answer because the question is to broad to answer so i'll attempt.. You have a working range for amps.. (which isnt concrete), and you have a working acceptable range for batteries' DOD cycles(depth of discharge). Typical working range of amps- 9-10v to 16-19v. So, let's say 10v-16v. That doesn't mean 10.4v, for example, is still fine. Under maximum potential output power, it will be pulling the most current. Adding the fact of low low low voltage, the time it will take for amplifier failure will increase greatly. So an amp can still die within it's operable voltage range just stressing over current draw. It's based on time. Time can be a second to whenever.. It's the context of the scenario. Batteries' DOD. The DOD cycles are higher with less discharge. Discharging 20% all the time and recharging will net the battery much longer life, many many years. AGMs have this typical life expectancy under lightest duties- 8-10yrs average til 60% life or 20yrs under complete failure. This is probably best best best case scenario though. Every time you cycle a battery, discharge then recharge, it potentially prevents it from resting at the same voltage it did from the beginning. After several hundred cycles or a couple thousand, it will only rest at 60% of what it used to. Voltage levels are not linear so 60% of 13.0v may be around 12.3v, for example, best potential. For daily usage, try not to allow your battery to have dynamic peaks where the battery drops below 12.0v. If it does, it's not bad, just, harder on the battery. Batteries subdued to drops at or below 11.4v for continuous usage over period of months are going to have a much shortened life due to abuse and high DOD.

If autozones batt tester passed it.. then again.. something is wrong in your car. If they are just going off voltage then they didnt test it. A batt cant go from good to bad to good. From what you tell us. Autozone tested it to be good. A load test will verify this and a charger will too. A charger wont charge without faulting if batt was bad. Some info is missinf in this story or something is bad in vehicle.