shizzzon

Wtf? Thats awesome that u guys found my car, lol.

Well I tell u what. When hes done testing, find out what all monitoring is available because id be interested. I still have to know if any monitoring would effect ability to recone if necessary or if it would alter ts parameters in anyway

thanks for the response but we didn't click on the last question.. On the ambient threshold, i was referring to what is the estimated ambient MAX temperature a thermal couple would read before thermal failure is about to occur? I know this is ambient reading pretty much so i did not know if you knew this or not. Also, i'd be interested in this option, the thermal couple option. What is the price increase per driver and could it possible effect other aspects of the driver itself such as reconing or TS parameters in anyway?

you need 1ah for every watt on stock alternator. So you will need 7000ah worth of batts. lol, just playin.. Listen to Mike above. If you are tight on money, i'd just buy 2 G31s and see if you like the performance. If not, add 1 and retest.. You can keep adding batts without having to buy them all at once.

Yea, i just try and get people to realize that alternators were not built for 100% duty all the time. Think of it like air compressors for air ride kits. those are not built for 100% duty cycle either so if you had a massive leak and didn't care to fix it, the compressor would go out soon, just like an alternator. As long as you are aware of this is better than not knowing\caring about it. Now.. there are some 100% duty cycle air compressors out there... hehe, but in our world, there are no 100% duty cycle stock or even high output alts for passenger vehicles.

Do you know if his findings will be available before the preorder is over? Also, i just seen that thermal couple option in the other thread and have a question on that. Can that only be done on unassembled drivers? I'm assuming the preorder time will be for drivers already assembled? Also, if i'm right about above, is there an option for already assembled drivers that's just as effective? Also, what is the estimated ambient threshold for these readings obtained if you know?

While my mouth is in the floor from bad-ass-ism.. Can someone explain the difference between master\slave and mirroring? I'm assuming mirroring allows EACH amp to run independently without series strapping, just with copied settings? Is this correct? If so, that is one freakin awesome feature because i've seen\heard many strapped scenarios damage amps from the slaves shutting down while the masters still on.

This! Chuck would love this. Bring back memories. PS- i left the front batt up front just because i could care less if i left one battery in the car.

Well, for starters, most cracks contain viruses in them simply to deter people from getting them. Either the crack itself is fake and is just a virus OR it's real but injected with a virus which screws you anyway.. The simplest way is just to have active protection(antivirus\malware\spyware protection). Scan the files before executing them. Sometimes, things are reported as false positives but if you get multiple copies that all have the exact same triggered event, it may possible just be a false positive)

Hell, i'm thinkin bout making my thread about a video i found of someone wall socketing a red star audio sub.. Let's just keep it goin.

that 12.6v drop sounds normal then from what you have. Of course adding a battery in the rear would keep it up some but should not be a substitute for monitoring your electrical system(especially your alternator). Make sure it has time to cool off so it's not 100% duty all the time.

I'll be home tonight and I can look. Problem is half the activation cracks have viruses. If you can wait I can probably find a legit one. My copy is injected during the installation. It says it uses a SLIC emulator, a Modified Activation and a script that auto installs the certificate and key in case of accidental deletion. So.. i have no idea what to look for or what if i wanted to pull mine out of the image and help.

I can't find any public information about it. Only about the main site, ed.gov

Where are you measuring voltage at?

That's the thing.. I do not believe you can vent those types of batteries properly in a cargo area. IF you can, how?

Lol... any automotive AGM battery is fine. I do not suggest using non-sealed or flooded batteries actually in the cargo area. IT's more hazardous potentially.

Do you still have your stock battery or did u trade it in? You should have a batt in the rear from the get-go based on your electrical situation.

Everything seems to be rebadged dekas... I think it be better to say east penn agm deep cycle g31s and leave deka out of it.

Are you going to be testing the drivers in general based on what you are plotting? WinISD is notorious for erroneous conclusions for bandpass designs from what i've heard. But all in all, i'd like to see actual results of any enclosure design if you are planning on doing so. I see since this is a separate type of Ethos driver, it would be advantageous for me to see the actual differences in real life before i decide which one to purchase.

Let me rephrase that... When comparing a 10,000w amp @12v and @18v, the 18v wiring will require about 22% more current with a slight drop in efficiency. You still gain about 70% more power ~@10%THD

When voltage goes up, so does current so he would theoretically gain more power than that. But, with an increase of voltage, an increase of batteries is required to. We had a big discussion about this on another forum and these 18v amps, when driven past 14.x volts will require @18v approximately 22% more current demand than at 14v. Also, when increasing voltage... efficiency starts to drop as well. As ironic as it sounds, it does. That's why if you have 10,000w @18v and 10,000w @12v, the 18v side will require more amperage potential in the batteries than the 12v bank would.

For the price, i'd go 4/0

Yea.. isnt it weird after bassahaulic laid low for a while.. LA starts to get popular?

Yea and my ass been sweatin in it all week.. U dont even wanna know what the rest of my body has been doin...

When a customer needs warranty service on their amp, how does that work? Does customer ship to you guys or directly to a repair center... And which repair center repairs your amps?