shizzzon

exactly.. looking for ideas.. I don't have home automation though so that possibility is out...

i got an xb now.. I know it can still be towed.. but at the expense of dragging sparks behind a thief should throw a flag and alert police..

No, i'm not doing that, lol. I know how to do it.. but no, hehe. I have 2 trigger wires ran throughout the car off the brain for me so i can add more sirens to the car while i do my new build in the car. I didn't want them to add too any extra ones initially because i do not know at this time how the shell of this wall will be built yet.

lmao.. i dont know if i have enough batteries for that.. In all honesty.. when i go to viper's site, there is hardly any sensors left.. I dont know if it's because many are already built into the units now or what.. I'll keep looking for some random stuff. I keep my ride in a protected garage too. My most fears is staying at hotels while i'm asleep.

I'm glad you are thinking outloud! I will have air ride again but for performance rather than for show. I see this stated all the time.. if they really want it, they will take it or destroy it.. While i can't prevent external vandalism, i'm pretty sure i can GREATLY slow down internal access and possibly even eliminate the ability for total vehicle theft or greatly reducing damage potential. Many of us insure things and know we will be reimbursed for those things but something that get damaged can take weeks to fix.. When you are on a schedule driving around the country, it hinders the time-frame one can drive from one point to another. I'm trying to think of the ways someone can gain access or do things to a car (while that's another topic, i still welcome it here) and some unique remote executions. One thing i'm thinking of which is simple is remotely turning on exterior lighting when at shows that is not street legal. if a thief can't pick a lock, cant jimmy his way through the window seal, can't bust the glass.. what other way can you get into the vehicle? IF you want to steal the vehicle.. from the inside.. well the above answers that- If you want to tow it from the outside access only(this will be illegal since no need to tow it)- There would be club on the steering wheel and external wheel. Maybe i should put a club on both front and rear wheel because if someone uses one of those old school tow trucks that lifts up only front 2 or rear 2 wheels, then welcome the sparks flying everywhere down the road.. I know this sounds excessive but just pointing out if one were to do that.. there is no other method left of full theft or internal intrusion. Remember, we are notified while sensors are being tripped. It's not like they would have 15minutes of alone time...

Is this the ONLY option to prevent having the door locks picked?

I guess i should say this... I have the Viper 5904 I'll have 14mil Bulletproof Laminate installed soon and Clubs on the steering wheel and outside wheel.. I already have remote start and trunk pop.

they dont, looked at it wrong.

18" SP4 mounting depth- 11.75" What is the diameter of the motor with rubber boot? What is the height of the motor from the bottom to the top where the basket attaches? What is the height from the floor to when you reach the bottom of the push terminals? How long are the push terminals? And finally- what is the height from the back of the mounting ring to the top of the motor? I need these measurements so i can begin drawing out the next massive build to fit properly.

ANLs have a burst rating of over 10,000A.

Well, i must talk stupid to you(it may appear that way) to try and help you. This 13.3v you measured.. where was it measured at? the casing of the alt is generally always very hot. Welcome to the engine bay. If you are measuring 13.3v from the Charging post of the alt itself.. then shut off car immediately! Check and see what your batteries are resting at with car off for a while. If 13.3v is at the alt, it's "possible" the rectifier or regulator is damaged. If you have an ammeter, try to put a large load on the alt with car on and revved up(preferably over 200A) and measure current out. this will help you determine if the rectifier is damaged in anyway.

what are you touching that's dictating it's very hot?

http://youtu.be/0uNIXWdJCBE

I made a video instead. Videos are better than pics anyway.. You'll see

ok, i'll take pics of my big ass. OH, my big ass phone.. ok, hold on

How do you peel it back? What i am saying is i have cut a section of the nylon jacket off the cable and then there is steel rope! Inside that is the cable..

Yea it is.. am I going about this too aggressively?

I'm planning on using some exotic wiring on being able to switch from 2ohm to 0.5ohm for competition via a switch so i do not have to rewire for an hour at every show. I see some copper made 80A relays. What i want to know is this, here is my scenario- Maximum burping current draw can be up to 85A AC. So i opted to use 2 80A relays per speaker in parallel for 160A of heat dissipation. Since Relays only use 10AWG quick disconnects, will quick disconnects be sufficient enough for this wiring? I plan on running modded inserts for 4awg wiring off each terminal of sub to a junction block. Then from there, 10awg to each relay pin, output to another junction box of 8awg wiring which goes to amp. I would love to find some 5 pin SPDT high current relays that did not require quick disconnects so i could just use same wire awg throughout. The main thing i'm concerned about is will these relays greatly restrict potential power coming out of the amp? I've never measured output loss on these kind of high ampacity relays so do not know what to expect.

Im just afraid these quick disconnects will build up resistance overtime like how a Loose connection would do based on how they connect. Im still considering soldering Them on once i verify the wiring is right

I know about those but for this project, that's too much money for what use i'm using it for. I will need a minimum of 10 of those, 2 per speaker, to wire and i don't see myself spending over $500 in relays for one use.

95honda- that's what i'm thinking.. if it's rated for it.. then it should be fine. I would never risk switching them while a load was present. I'd probably be switching these literally like less than 60 times a year. I guess what i could do is after wiring everything up and making sure it's wired right, i would just put the connectors back on the terminals and just solder the terminals on the relay. I'm still open for what you can find Alton. To do this, for my method of distributing the heat with 2 relays, it takes 4 relays per speaker to do it. 2 pairs in series.

mines only 5.2"

actually no.. the Galaxy 4s are considered phablets because they are coming out with phones up to 6.2". Galaxy 3s and Notes are not phablets.

that's actually my phone, lol

ok, then only other thing i can think of that would make it shut the sound off to the amp when call happens is a problem with the signal cables. But, about the power- if you run a totally separate cable to the amp from the battery and you physically measure the voltage at the amp when playing and when it goes into protect and it's well within range, then either the amp is too hot, the amp is wired too low, the amp's signal input section is damaged or is protecting from something wrong with the signal or the amp itself is damaged.