shizzzon

i dont think it's solely the power wire. Get a DMM and check the voltage at the amp. The ground sounds like it needs attention. Because you say it comes back on but very dim, if the power wire were too small, turning it down just a little would fix the problem. It's assumed you've tried that when you first noticed it and it didn't "fix itself" so again, check the ground.

good budget amps, all brand new, not expecting to suggest you to buy refurbs or used. Lanzar's Opti line PA's 3000w Crunch's GP3000d-PRO AQ's 2200w

ok, i can't find that statement so let me switch over to reality that i can prove- Steve Meade has his tuned to 30hz and he has 4 18" BTLs, ask him what he thinks of the low end... And here is a quote from tejcurrent from his install of 4 18" BTLs tuned to 36hz - I like the sound of this box much better than the previous two- I listen to a lot of rock/metal and they seem to get the faster kickdrums much better- but it still retains the low end very well. Every person who's heard the system near me has said 'that's the loudest thing I've heard', or 'you're the loudest vehicle in conway/myrtle beach

i could have swore i read that somewhere, let me try n find it but i could have swore... hold on hehe, every time i try and type read, i type rear.

can or do you want to extend your ports out of the box partially so they go up into the rear deck physically? If you do, how far away is the top of that box from the rear deck?

I thought the BTL was dubbed the "low end monster"?

haha, if he hears voices with his test tone cd he has... he's gettin some MAJOR noise issues. IS the Sundown amp the only thing in line with that power wire? I'm curious as to why you are using a 250A fuse for... That's WAY to high if that's the only amp and will not protect as much if that's true. Also, don't turn your subsonic filter all the way down either and leave it there when you are ready to play music. Turn your subsonic all the way counter clockwise(to the left) and the LPF as well. Now for subsonic filter- turn it to the right 1\3 of the way. Turn it not quite directly in the middle but more than 1\4 of a turn. LPF - turn it no higher than 1\4 of a turn to the right. Keep it right in the middle of all the way to the left and directly straight up. This should set your subsonic in the high 20s and your LPF right around 100hz. Shouldnt need to be that high but just lettin you know. Keep all bass boosts on stereo and amp at 0. You shouldnt even be using a DMM to set your amp up anyway. You can't "set gains" to any wattage since wattage output varies per frequency. Trust me, if you think(which you aren't) you are at 1ohm trying to get 1200w, voltage would have to be 34.5v. If you rear 34.5v, that's not going to be 1200w. It'll be somewhere around 400w maybe if you're lucky. If you do not have an o-scope, go back to the shop and see if they do and have them set it up for you. Too much guess work leads to problems, i've been there too many times in the past.

if you want all 3 ranges to be "awesome" then you must go sealed. Going sealed, though, will have lower output compared to a ported box in a more narrow range but the sealed box might have a higher overall average output... but it shouldn't. If you set your crossover on your amp soon enough, like around 60-70hz, ported should still be the way to go to get really deep low loud bass. Tune the box to around 32hz. If you have experience with ported in the past and know what this tuning sounds like and want the low lows, tune at 29-30hz. By tuning that low will typically cause the higher frequency range for the sub to be audibly lower in output. So will 32hz but the lower you tune, the lower the frequency will be at the point of roll off above tuning.

1. How old are you? 25 2. When did you get into car audio? 17 3. How did you first get into car audio? The whole city was wangin so i grew up to it 4. Whats your favorite color ? Metallic blue 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? 1982 Oldsmobile Omega 8. How did you find out about this site? From Fi 9. What was your first system? 2 10" Sanyos(home subs) in a bandpass and 2 4x10s 11. Were do you live? Kentucky 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? Alpine 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? No one, i like others designs but have seen it all 16. Whats your dream system? Matterhorn 17. Whats your dream car? Don't have one. 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? my Scion tC 122mph 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? eCommerce 20. What is your job? Warehouse distributor\shipper\driver 21. Whats your favorite saying? Herbert(family guy)-Go on, Stick it in there! But don't tell nobody... or you'll get in Trouble! 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? None 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? Better 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? 160sq ft of Second Skin, 100sq ft of Fatmat Extreme, spl meter 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? i dont know. 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? never used the TL 33. SQ or SPL? why? LSQ, spl is retarded for daily, sq is too technically involved for my tastes.

I was wondering if the BP option changes anything on the T/S parameters of any woofer it gets done to? Does it lower efficiency? And if it does, what is the point? Does a subs BL drop by having the BP option?

ok... do it

MOVE your amps grounding location and no, don't ground directly to battery or you would have changed nothing.

i'd really check your ground and even change it's location. Sounds like either a very bad ground or ground loop feeding through.

Knukonceptz has pretty much everything u need. If they don't, try Stinger or Tsunami. Tsunami does sell entry to higher end stuff so watch what you buy from them.

Well, i would assume ~$85 + $45 = ~ $130 + the cost it costs you to ship it to them. Because of shipping costs, shipping alone round trip is more than the recone!

looks like your box is "coming" along quite well.

Ah, well that's good then. So even for someone to be on the safe side, getting bp is only an advantage.

that's at 1ohm though.

might have to invest on going with custom door panels, multiple midbass drivers in each door. I'm actually lookin into this as well... Don't know if i'll do it but came across a guy that will fiberglass both of my doors for around $350 total. Sounds cheap but he says he has lot's of experience with my car so gotta make a phone call.

basically, yea. I tell this story a lot but their was a competitor over on DbDrag who used AQs HD3 12s, 2 12s off of 2 Hifonic Colossus amps! He actually went out their to do a test for me before i was convinced to buy 1... then another one but his results came back- just a hair over 2,200w actual power. This was his daily driver by the way. It blew me away on how he was able to get away with that setup but he had no problems. thats why i say i did that test with max clipping around 1100w and the sub(AQ), never got warm or any other type of stress. That 1000wrms rating is a joke if u ask me. I never ran any more power than that because i didn't have any more amp power available. but all in all, they dont have to expect everyone to use recommended enclosure. Rating is a thermal rating, not mechanical.

i wont doubt your burping claims. I'm solely complaining about their rating strategy. They said 2kw rms, that means it should take that daily. 1100wrms with a helluva lot of clipping didnt let it last. Meaning... it doesnt have enough cooling properties, glue isn't strong enough.. something there didn't meet what i hoped for. And to compare retail to retail- the immortals retailed for $499 The AQs at the time were $409 shipped. Now look, the AQs are under $300 and still wangin. The new immortals are comp only now with their high Fs and they expect users to take AB's advice and go, Oh!, the Eternals are like the immortals but can be used for daily... At HALF the rating of the immortal! That's how the original should have been rated, 1kw-1.2kwrms, not 2kw. But then again, the eternal is rated crazy high. I am willing to bet the AQ SD 2.5s can handle more power than the eternals can.

don't be shocked if your clean output power is a lot lower than expected.

you should be all set. Just remember when measuring output of amp, dont set ammeter to peak hold or you will not get accurate output readings.

the exact same one i got. I use that to setup my amps and for metering with my spl meter. that o-scope can read millivolts (.001volts) at 1\10th of a millivolt(.0001volts) with a resolution of 0.0002-0.0003 volts. i like it a lot for the purpose of what i use it for. You won't find out your actual power by this alone. You need this to setup your amps properly. You need this or a DMM AND an ammeter to find out your wattage output.

Yea but i dont think that is even made anymore and is impossible for me to find new.