shizzzon

if you dont have an o-scope, go to a shop and ask if they do. If they do, then go ahead and get that amp power and have them set the amps up for you for a fee, should be under $100 even if you let them run all wires. MAKE SURE OF THIS- if you let a shop do it, request that you know what the maximum clean volume number is on the stereo so you do not exceed it. And do not change the bass\treble settings either. Increasing them after tuned will make it necessary to decrease the volume. Decreasing bass and treble does not necessarily mean your max volume can then be raised higher. Remember that. The the more you over power subs, the cleaner the signal must be.

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haha, i speak in tongue. Briefly- my frequency response may not be flat because there is a slight boost in the middle of the range from my last amp setup i had. Possible reason that other frequencies may have been lower... So, to sum it up even brieflier(haha), wait til i get my amp replacement before i restart a possible pre-complaint on something i havent tested for a new setup. Man, i bet that just made ya shake your head with a 7 sec headache.

200% for 2-3 full seconds. play some songs with constant bass like some lil jon songs. IF that don't pop it then you aren't drawing at least a consistent 100A of current minimal. It's ok if your fuse dont pop, hehe, it just lets your dreams stay dreams when you know the recommended fuse is 300A !!! and you cant even pop 100 yet, hehe

no, he's not hard headed, he is just one of many people who ask questions and get answers that are completely different than what he was expecting. How about this amp?.... that amp is terrible get this amp---> And just leave the reply like that... You get enough people who answer your questions like that, you are gonna want to know why? But when nobody wants or can give an elaborate answer, it frustrates those who are trying to learn. We've been there, he's tryin to do research, just needs to be pointed in right direction. This is a good place to hibernate at for a while. I'd also suggest reading technical documents near very bottom of this forum as well as going to www.the12volt.com interesting info there too.

so would ICONs. I never really recommend L7s unless you have gigantic amount of space to deal with which if you did, well if it were me, i'd run a lot more subs in that space!, hehe. L7s are just box hogs in my opinion. Yea they are loud but require a lot of volume.

didnt i say before to get an AQ-1200d from Audioque? $249 shipped, does 1470w @1ohm. This topic sounds familiar but my post isnt here. This must be a cloned post for the same thing. What you want is like asking for a viper, or one that is just like it for $30,000... We've been in the car audio scene for quite some time. Most to all of us do not know each other personally, well that's a given, so we have nothing to gain personally just by helping others out. So why would you have the slightest thought when different people all want to set it in stone that the amps you are looking at are not a good idea that you have the thought that we may be trying to get you to spend extra money for no reason? It's coincidental that we all have the same opinion, isn't it? No, it's not. We have all had experience in the car audio world and know what to expect from companies that have been around forever and those who are new. We know or some of us know how the economy works and general business practices because everybody wants the best for the least money, who doesnt? But that doesnt mean you need to sacrifice necessities to get that lower price, you catch me? We see things that you havent had experience with yet. We are not coercing you into buying the same thing we have or the most expensive thing we can think of... That is bad practice for this site and it wont happen! You cannot judge pricing online for someone who may be somewhat new to this because ecommerce prices fluctuate from dealer to dealer due to authorized\non authorized sellers, refurbs marked as new and so on. So for you, it may be hard to justify the good vs the bad product online based on pricing on a general sense. With enough time talkin on boards you will start to get experience as well as physical experience. Oh, and get that AQ-1200d,

well good thing i went with second skin then! I got 3 layers of damplifier on all my flooring and rear quarter panel walls(walls beside of back seat) and 1 layer of fatmat xtreme (mass loader) on top of all the flooring as well just as an added deadener. I still need to do my hatch area and hatch itself and both doors up front. I ordered $700 worth of sound deadening, plan on using it all hopefully. I'll probably need to order some rattlepad or overkill after i get my install in there to see if i need\want any or not. But yea, that stuff is strong.

Oh, I'm close as well. I'm thinkin what it is is alpine units bass control is not a crossover but a center frequency and you can adjust freq and bandwidth. What I have set is +2 on both bass and treble with highest bandwidth possible. So... I believe is slowly sloping the frequency range. I had to have it set like that with the last amps I had or it wouldn't get full clean power without a little help. If my next amps are like that, I'll just get a line driver and 3way x-over since I need that anyway

Oh, I'm close as well. I'm thinkin what it is is alpine units bass control is not a crossover but a center frequency and you can adjust freq and bandwidth. What I have set is +2 on both bass and treble with highest bandwidth possible. So... I believe is slowly sloping the frequency range. I had to have it set like that with the last amps I had or it wouldn't get full clean power without a little help. If my next amps are like that, I'll just get a line driver and rway x-over since I need that anyway

Past amps I've had, according to o-scope, if I max one frequency out, maybe about 15hz below that, its not so if I increase the gain to get it to get max clean power, other frequencies above will clip. That's why a lot of amps I've used will even say next to freq response +- 3db because it varies. The eq is not to be set by rta for sq, but for maximum clean output power for low, mid and high range for lsq.

your reading 12.7 with the car on? hmm... If you do everything or about 90% of everything i said above, if your voltage up front is 14.4v, then your voltage in rear should be 14.1-14.2v. On hard bass notes, you shouldnt even drop below 13.5v with the setup above. And I never let voltage dip below 11.8v. It's just a personal threshold for me. If it's dippin that low, either need to turn the volume down or get a better electrical system.

you have a BTL, 418Fis, wire that sucker in parallel. You definitely blow a fuse like that. And trust me, as long as you set the amp right, clip free, it can take that amp all day long, as long as you got the BTL loaded. Now, you say it's not poppin 100A fuse wired in series- Well, 1,600w @2ohm, your nominal should be 3ohm, dont know why it's 2, but lets say 3 anyway. You'll never see 3ohm during play, so whatever it's rated at @4ohm is probably the most it will put out, or just a tad more. To measure output power, get dmm and hook up probes to speaker out terminal on amp. Get an ammeter and clamp it around the positive speaker wire only, leave the negative out of the field. Run a constant test tone and when the numbers on both meters stop fluctuating drastically, take a snapshot in your head and memorize\write the numbers down. Multiply both numbers together to get wattage output. That will get you very close to true output. It may be off by only a few watts due in inconsistencies in the meters but all in all, it's really close.

Well, since it sounds like ur serious, then this is what u r going to need- 2kw-2.5kw amp. 2-3 layers of sound deadening... Everywhere! A 200-300alt, depending on batt capacity. And for batts- approx 120aH worth just for stereo system. I also recommend cadence fh-8 to anyone because they can shut off amp power if voltage ever drops below 12v. No capacitors, please! Batts are way better. From front to rear, approx 10,000 strands of wire run to have voltage drop to rear very minimal. Approx no worse than .2 - .3v if that. That would equal - 2 3/0s 2 1/0 knuconceptz kolossus 3 1/0 anyone else 3-4 4awg Run under car in metal flex conduit for more room. Remember to silicon ANY holes that you drill up thru the car to secure the conduit. Now, start preppin, hehe.

hey tasos, may i ask why your sub out is only 8 of 15? Unless you know something i dont, i don't see no way that amp is outputting 1Kw of power set like that. I was just curious if you are afraid the amp might damage the sub... Just checkin. I've always had mine maxed out at 15, that way it lets me run everything flat on the stereo itself and control all processes via external devices...

Well, first things first, There is no such thing as a Panasonic 6900ub... but upon further research, you have a Pioneer DEH-6900ub. Ok, first things first, is the subwoofer level control on the stereo turned on or if it is on, can it be increased? Do not increase the bass, the stereo will have a sub on\off setting but somewhere either there or somewhere else should\might be a control to adjust the Sub output level. Check into that.

here is the general rule i believe- trunk car- subs and port to the rear of the vehicle. Hatchback\suv - subs up, port back. trunk car- if completely sealed off from the rear, subs and port forward. Now, this is a generalization. the loudest possible direction for certain vehicles in the above categories may be different based upon the equipment you have, the box volume and install basically.

Hey sundownz, you say that the Saz-1500d protects the RCA line too, what kind of protection is that called? Is that Overload protection?

oh yea!!! You are absolutely right! I forgot about Mmats! Well, now is possible by 2 amps. I've never used either. I've owned the opti2000d, beefy amp, but never powered it up. Sold it instead before i had a chance to play with it.

so you need an amp that can do 1000-1500w @ 1ohm $300 shipped.... Audioque AQ1200D - $249 shipped. 1470w @1ohm 14.4v

one that works... No, but seriously, hehe - I dont know specs of those 8s but look for an amp that can do the power you need at 1 ohm. You can get an amp that does it at 4 ohm as well but would probably cost a LOT more.

I own 2 of em, never let me down yet. They are a must have. I practically preach to people around my area to have one of these in every install. Safety always comes first for me in a daily driver over performance any day.

That's awesome man. Hey, if i get my install done by the end of April, i'm gonna be goin down to Cape Coral so if i meet my goal, i might get in touch with ya and stop by on the way down there.

oh yea, i'm certain. They are rated for it in the manual as that would be a sad mistake if they werent but for more info about them- I had discussed this amp before with some db draggers a long time ago over at termpro. When they were first the "big buzz" amp, the best price to performance ratio amp, there were people running them strapped at 0.5 ohms daily for some decent high rise installs and burping them at 0.25 strapped! I remember on one of these threads over there that 0.25 ohms strapped is very touchy with these amp which i imagine so, ....duh, hehe but, yea i know they are. Even CA&E did the test on this amp which said it put out just a little over 1900w at 0.5 ohms, resistor-wise. not with a sub on it. 1,600w at 1ohm, can't remember the rest of the specs but yea, that's why i am wondering.

for a 4" port - 58.25" long. Non flanged(like using pvc pipe the whole time) for a 3" port - 32.25" long. Non flanged(like using pvc pipe the whole time) If using a square\rectangle port lengths are as follows for port areas given- 8sq in - 36.25" long 9sq in - 41.50" long 10sqin - 46.00" long Port lengths get astronomically long when being designed for small Net-ed enclosure sizes when required to be tuned low at the same time.