shizzzon

well, i hope so for that high of efficiency. Again, i'd like to make it known to those who didnt remember this little topic about what i needed in terms of mids and highs with 4KW of bass is that - i'm not competing in SPL or SQ, this is just for daily so LSQ or whatever it's called nowadays. I just never had tweeters behind me before and am worried if it's gonna make it sound as if all, or the majority of my music is all behind me... This is in a hatch so that is a plus.

the point at which the driver resonates

heres some more info- Fi's T/S parameters are taken AFTER break in. AQ's are taken fresh, stiff suspension and everything. Fs drops 8-10hz below what they are rated at after suspension has loosened up. that's why i put AQ in my list of top choices for my daily driver.

Well, I'm gettin a 300A alt internally regulated so I doubt I can have it set that high... Unless u tell me otherwise

Hey, now that's interesting to know. Now the main Q now is, what happens when this module acts up or fails? What kind of safety features do they have? U know this runs the whole car so, u know, is their risks?

And what happens when u have a car like mine that can only fit 1 alt? You sure can't run 16v then. Small cars can get loud but because of limited space, gotta pack as much potential amp power in a case as possible.

I just tried calling the company that makes the meter and all I got was a home-use answering machine... So far that just makes u guys even more skeptica huh?

Well,again, u guys know I didn't buy it to compare to a TL or something more, I just got it to know if what I do helps or not to get the most out of my daily setup. I have nothing to compare this mic too so don't expect me to.

They never say on their site, maybe it does on the disc... who knows. But however it does, this chart i seen, it was only extremely accurate with a Tlab when they were both measuring the peak frequency in the car so the way this meter measures pressure is different of coure but also a lot stricter which results in lower Db levels than tlab sensor. It's consistency for measuring 1 frequency to the next may be too strict? the meter does matter to a certain degree. Gotta have one that measures millivolts. 2nd, he said once you start reading up in the 140db range, anything higher then that, a cheaper DMM "shouldnt" have a problem getting somewhat accurate enough in the Db output. He says this because after about 140db, the millivolt ratings start to spread out more, meaning you need more millivolts just to gain 1 Db so a slight innaccuracy in the meter wont affect your score much if any.

Fi equipment would be the route i would take if i were you. the BL or the Q would be great.

If\when Sundown brings out anything better than the 3000d, to make the company Stand Out from others is consistency. What i mean by that is for instance- the 1500d, it was tested down to 0.175 ohms! Now, down to 0.5 ohms is a lot more stable to run. Some people can run these amps at 0.5 daily if they know what they are doing. The 3000d, tested at 0.6 ohms. For reference sake, it may be able to do 0.5 daily if you know what you are doing. The key here though about consistency is this that makes sundown so good- Real World tests show that wattage output EXCEEDS ratings at voltage drop as low as 11v, if not lower! Efficiency levels are very high, 80-90% in between 1-2 ohms on the 1500d. If Sundown can put this type of consistency into larger powered amps, then there is one say that you know Sundown doesn't do, and that is cut corners. Some companies, once they start selling these ridiculous amps that can do 5,7,10Kw, all they are worried about is the amp doing it. They can care less about efficiency or it's stability below rating or it's ability to still perform under low voltage or just being able to output it's rated power at low voltage. Just about every company i come across cut's corners like this when they start manufacturing Big daddy amps. I know a 7K amp isn't a typical daily driving amp but if it was made with this type of technology, it would be better than a lot of others out there. Oh, and another thing about cutting corners. Some companies also believe that if they make an amp large enough that it need not be strappable. This capability should not be chosen by the company but rather by the user. If a company were to manufacturer a 15,000w class d amp, it better be strappable, regardless of reason. Just because that feature is there, gives more props to the company for thinking ahead instead of restricting one's goals for a custom setup.

Well, while we have non believers, hehe, i just got done reading a 19 page thread over on www.caraudio.com about this thing. After going through all the posts of people calling each other names, hehe, i got to some results! The results- This meter's accuracy is DEPENDENT upon the quality of your DMM. Now, i have 2 meters and an o-scope. I'll probably use the o-scope anyway but it says it is dependent because the entire time you wish to use a DMM, it must be able to read millivolts and be accurate. The voltage reading need not be moving before testing begins as an example. I own a triplett DMM and have never had a problem with it. Results vs TLab PRO - This cheapo meter was reading LOWER than a Tlab in ALL frequencies. Wha ha ha, i win.... no, but seriously, that's what this chart shows over in this thread. He did state this- TLab PRo's sensor give a Db reading by averaging 3 different frequencies into 1 score. This meter just measures Db based upon the single loudest note. Also, in his testing, by the time he reached the Fs of his car, this meter and the Tlab Pro sensor were near exact Db reading, interesting.... So anyways, apparently this meter is good. The instructions it comes with they say are completely retarded but does come with a cd that helps a lot. It took this one guy 23 days to get his once he ordered it so it's gonna be a while for me i'm sure.

i've never really studied this, i've heard about it but never was really interested. I take it - 1\4wave is for gettin loud, can also be used for SPL comp? 1\8wave is what you say, ultra SQ, hehe what would 1\2wave be considered? the frequency will always be super high....

Exactly what i thought... but when they have comparisons with a Tlab sensor being less than 0.2db off in many cases, it makes me wonder exactly is in that little box and what is it doing... I'm sure they would never say how it works or else their business is exposed but if it works, hey i dont care if i had to hold headphones in my hand and hook em up to a humidifier that must be placed inside the car... if it's accurate enough, it's accurate enough...

yea i did 1 minute after i posted this thread. The guy\company said it take 5-9 business days AFTER payment has cleared before item is shipped. And since i live the furthest shipping distance possible from California, i'm expecting it to be here by no later than.... Nov 4, 2009, no cancel that, hehe. Should be here by no later than march 20th, hopefully...

I know what you're referring to but the good news is somewhere on their site, they guarantee that no check engine light will come on with this thing! Haha. they claim competitors have used these up to 170db for years. They also claim that they are calibrated just like TLabs and other high end meters are that i've never heard of. I'm not trying to compare this meter to a hgih end meter. All i need it to do is read louder when i do something right and get lower when i dont. That shouldnt be hard. I could have just gotten a radioshack mic but they dont go high enough for car audio.

Welcome to the what questions do you may i help great info here to read!? Tried to save on sentences.

Well, the thing retails for $249 but they got it on here for practically nothing. It's not as convenient on the Tlab sensor which i'm sure makes the cost go down but if you have an o-scope, which i do, it will give me the actual db reading on screen. Supposedly its gonna take forever before i get it but everyone's feedback says that they like it. Watch, week after i get it, i'm gonna come on here and say i did a 157 with 1 10 off the head unit and claim it's accurate! Well, we'll see in a couple weeks.

Thank you Good Sir i am testing an idea i had, what i do is measure the distance from the sub too where the mic will be placed then convert the inchs into feet / times 4 / gives me the quarter wave # / i take that # and devide it into the speed of sound 1131 and get the Freq i need to port the box to if i do it x2 i get the 1/2 wave and a lower tuning freq.... for street beet then i look for a sub with an Fs of 34 or higher and Bammmmmmmmm what exactly do you mean if you do it x2 you get the 1\2wave? multiplying by 2 will double frequency result... do you divide in half? In my case, it would be 25 hz, lol Some box i was testin the other sounded pretty loud between 30-33hz then got loud again at 39-42hz then hit the car's Fs at 49-54hz.

you'll get a lot more info about them over on ROE's forum but i'll tell you what i have found out about them from reading over there. Compare the HDC3 to the BL, haha, thats what you think! There over there comparing the HDC3 to the BTL, does that raise your eyebrow yet? Power ratings for the HDC3 are there for the people who are new to car audio and dont know all the little details about gaining the most output from a sub by overpowering it without failure. Now, here is what to know- IF you don't know every tip or secret about running subs with more power safely, then power an HDC3 with 1,000-1,500 amp. IF you know a decent deal and ARE going to be upgrading electrical system, alt + batt(s) if necessary and money doesn't choose your electrical system for you, then run a 2K amp on 1 HDC3. If you know a LOT and money is no restriction and are going for loud, LouD, LOUD, run a 3K amp to each HDC3. You MUST know how to setup x-overs properly when doing this and building boxes or else you will end up with damage. They supposedly sound like DD subs audibly(not sq-ish type sub but suppose to be better sounding than an actual DD sub), they weigh a lot(example - shipping weight for 1 12 is 52lbs, just sub, cardboard and Styrofoam), they can take a lot of abuse, i know this personally because i own 2 of the older AQs and these are suppose to be even more heavy duty. They are considered one of the best "get hella loud" subs out there for the money. Nobody can say The loudest for the money because they might be wrong but is definitely a killer sub. I'm planning on going with Fi or AQ myself. I've done AQ before and was blown away. People on here do Fi and are blown away.

oh, i'm not the kind of guy that buys cheap equipment whatsoever. Everything i own in terms of electronics is expensive. I don't like entry to average level anything. $1000 head unit $1000 sound deadening over $8k worth of computers in house.... get me? Of course i've been broken into before too. More than twice within 8 years. However, insurance is there for a reason. I did about 45 minutes of researching just to make sure that the mic they have on ebay is the same one on the companies website and was studying everything about it. Only thing i'm not for sure is how to recalibrate it if necessary. However, i'm mainly only going to be using this for a day or 2 then i'll be ready to build my enclosure. Of course i'll still use it after the enclosure for curiosity but if it starts to get inaccurate, i don't care. As long as the first 2 days are consistent, i'm fine.

you "might" have to cancel me out of the Fi in april or may... I just ordered me a meter so i can build a test box to see what would be the best way to setup a design in my car. If i can continue to do as i have been drawing, it will be Audioque HDC3s... If I have to shrink my enclosure down to get louder, it will be Fi's. If i don't do anything for some reason, it will be factory... If i do something but nothing loud, i'm not even gonna say i did anything. If...... you get the picture? Give me time. Patience...

Wow, now that is an awesome score! Can i borrow some of your Dbs when you are not using them so i dont have to spend as much money?

nvm, went to the website and seen some pics.

Well, i just did some testing with about 30 songs and frequencies from 27-55hz individually with positioning a ported and sealed box around in the hatch to determine what sounds loudest to the ear. I only faced sealed forward, everything else is for ported. This test though is with port and sub on same side. I have a sub up port back box but no sub to fit it, lol Sealed firing forward, right behind rear seat - Basically everything just drops in output. IT all sounds the same, just quieter so that definitely isn't recommended. Fire rear, box against the back seat- the mid range 50-60hz seems to hit hardest by doing this but not by much more than firing directly forward! The low bass was great. Fire rear, box 5" from the back door - everything sounded less loud. I do not recommend doing this. Fire to the side, 5" from the wall - everything sounded less loud. I do not recommend doing this. Fire forward - This is the setup i want to do and this is what i found out- Compared to firing rear, the 50-60hz range is very slightly quieter. I'm sure after a couple days you wouldnt even hear the difference. the lows are surprisingly still existent! I am using a box tuned to 41hz and surprisingly i was getting some pretty good low end output firing forward, 3ft away from my head! With it tuned that high, i tested as low as 29hz in that box before the sound started to become too quiet to even care anymore. This was only on 50w of power by the way. In the tC, 49hz is suppose to be the Fs of the car. It may very well be too in my case because when cycling through the tracks one by one, when i reached 41hz, the output started to drop a LOT through 46hz. 47hz came back a little, 48hz came back a LOT. You could tell something was about to get loud soon, hehe. From 49-54hz, it was VERY loud for only 50w. I am probably going to and recommend tuning firing forward for this car between 36 - 41hz. Even though my box i used to tune was 41, i think i should tune just a little lower so i can gain back some the low end output. Don't get me wrong, 41 hz still has some great low end output but when comparing it to what i heard around 50hz, well... you understand, I believe if you tune below 36hz firing forward that the upper frequencies may not be as loud as they are when i did testing, or as loud as they could be if you kept it above 36hz. Tune too high liek above 41hz and you might as well say goodbye to lowend. So, all in all, i'm excited!!! Gotta do some more drawings in CAD and see where i'm at. My current looks right now are 2 AQ HDC3 12s off of 4,000w tuned to 37hz. Of course i may change but as of right now.... Wow!