shizzzon

Well, I don't have a test box with port on a wall that's not on baffle. Question- U say sub up port to driver side sideways. How far away is the port from the wall? I'm sure ur box is takin up bout the whole width and depth right?

cant do slot in middle. Required more depth than depth of box. If i split the vent in the middle 50\50, the volume a slot port would take up is too ridiculous. 6" aeroports would ONLY fit in the middle, i would only need 2 but they would still need to bend in the back to fit and that takes up just about as much room as the slot port does. I have done measurements for normal size ports that i can readily obtain - 1", 2", 3", 4", 6" and slot port. 1 and 2" are too small of course. I can do 3" but not necessary. 4" seems to be the sweet spot. These ports are PVC. It's a plus because PVC is so thin compared to a slot. One thing i'm contemplating is whether i should install flared ports on the ends of the port on the INSIDE of the box. I don't have room to fit them on the outside.

oh and by the way, i need someone to look at this. You guys first reaction is probably going to be WTF? but i'm serious. Is there anything bad about the following draw that could cause some major problems - That is a picture of 2 12s with 5 4" ports above them. each port is 29" long tuned to 37hz. The ports must run all the way to the back of the enclosure, make a 90 degree elbow, then head down 6" and end. Is there anything bad about this because i've never had that many ports before? Bad as in, i cant run ports like that because....? or the ports are too close to each other....? You tell me.

i'm about to go to sleep but before i do, I wouldnt mind guiding you through your first build which would save you a LOT of money if you have the following- Table saw or skill saw Router or jig saw Caulking gun or no caulking gun Power drill with bits Screwdriver C Clamps or a friend Tape measure or Ruler Compass or intuition. I think that's the basics. If you can list what all you do NOT have, then i can let you know if i can help ya. Otherwise, someone on here should be able to tell you a couple sites to go to have them build one for you.

yes, you are right, that's what i'm after. Man, good thing you were here when i was thinkin about this, i would of had a heck of a time sleepin tonight. I'm not kiddin. When i start thinkin, it's like the end of the world... hehe. Gotta find those answers and gotta do that research, hehe. Thanks again, man. And about SQ, yes, you are right, it is VERY in depth. But what people got to realize (not you, just in general) is it also depends on the music you listen to. If the music i listened to did not have heavy bass lines in every song then i wouldnt be venturing into the heavy bass that i do. However, if i only listened to that music also, i wouldnt venture into total SQ either knowing that i can get louder the way i am now. I believe the variety of music one listens to determines the project, SQ or SPL-ish. I wont say SPL because SPL simply, to me, means competition one note wonders and that obviously isn't musical. Well, this has helped me out a lot and hopefully the Original Poster as well.

well get ready to laugh then. Of course you guys may already know i'm not doin this for SQ, i'm interested in doing this to prevent from losing the detail of music while the bass is going. Unlike other people who cut corners, i like to retain the ratio of highs to lows as the output power increases to a certain extent(thats the key) rather than 90% bass and 10% mids n highs. This is what i was going to do, this is why i said go ahead and laugh, I'm assuming this would work in terms of getting the mids and highs loud enough to hear what i'm listening too- 4Kw of bass. X-overed at 60hz. all 4 midbasses - bandpassed starting from 55-65hz and going up to the point at which the CD1pros can take over which is up in the 700s. I see that you dont run your mids higher than 150 or at least thats what u want me to do so where oh where would my lost frequencies be played from, 150-700?

you're gonna try and find a 400A + Alt?!?! The only one i've heard of is a Leece Neville (if i spelled that right) that my alt guy told me about before.

Ok, that sounds interesting. Now, i've never used horns before so does it actually sound like the information coming from the horns is really under me rather than around me since the horns are under the dash? Because that would sound weird. Oh, and i would only be able to use large woofers like that in the rear quarter panels. So, you think it should be- subs in the rear, large midbass drivers in the rear quarter panels and nothing but horns up front? Just thought of somethin. Instead of fabricating custom brackets for larger woofers, if i ran all 6.5 midbass in all 4 locations, that's 800wrms of potential right there because a lot of 6.5 midbass drivers i look at should be able to take 200w per driver. That should definitely be enough. And then the horns are so efficient they would carry out the rest of the frequency range on their own.

i have a question about this- IF you were to run let's say CD1pros, or CD2s and give them their recommended power, would the tweeters in the doors be audibly non-existent? You know? If i were to replace my 2way components with some 150w components, let's say Image Dynamics and replace by rear speakers with 6.5" mid basses and the bass was still drowning out the music, would installing horns drown out the front tweeters? I have never used horns before and wonder how loud they get. I notice their outrageous efficiency but still, is it literally deafening? Enough to fit in a vehicle equipped with 4Kw of bass?

They are cheap because- They do not have to employ a humongous employment line. They do not distribute their products to dealers creating a contract to advertise a certain MSRP which is always hella high. They do not spend money to make the sub look like it's made of diamonds and gold and silver, etc... What they do is have intelligence and manufacturer equipment that is cost effective and that has a good price to performance ratio. There is no ultra inflation as you can see.

He already blew out one of my windows and he's over 1,000 miles away from me!

Jimj, I was about to fall asleep and just so happen to glance where it says you are from, , that's hilarious. Anyways, yea, IF you were to have damage done to a vehicle, it would be gradual, not instantaneous. Although, we are all assuming you do not have Alan Dante installing this for you either so unless you start seeing damage, there won't be for quite some time. I mean many years.... many..., ok, i'll go to sleep now.

if you go into high powered mode, like push both 12s over their rating a bit, you may want to double up on the baffle, use 2 3\4" sheets but as to doubling up any other wall.. it isn't necessary. You will need to brace for every 12-16" of wall. If you are serious about bracing, use all-thread. That has more effectiveness than doubling up on other walls but double baffle is a good recommendation for, i dont know, 2-3Kw of power maybe?

i dont have anything yet. The weather is restricting my movements, hehe so i project by April to May is when i'll be done. I'll buy everything at once and take a whole weekend to build n install it.

AHHH, Big Jon, how could you?!?!?!?! You let a mod find out about us!!!

well it depends... Are you going to be throwing the Bls through the window? Are you going to have them moving INTO the window while they play? It all depends on the install but besides being completely careless, there should be no way that you would have a problem. I'm going to be running over 4,000w in my 2door hatch and i don't have worries so you shouldn't either.

That's the way i just said. Remember that Audiobahn's subs are overrated so don't try to run more than an 1800w amp to this sub because the tiniest bit of clipping will cause what you are smelling. It also depends on how long you've had the sub. IF it's brand new, it could be excess glue. Turn it down just a little and play it like that for a couple weeks then return the volume to where it was. If it still does it, your overworking it thermally(too much power or clipping)

Those are D2s. run 1 wire from + on 1 side to + on other side. run 1 wire from - on 1 side to - on other side. You now have 1 + and - left on each side. Hook the + and - to your amp and when you go to connect it to your sub, you can hook the + and - to either side you want, it doesnt matter. The reason there are 2 + and 2 - on each side is so that you do not have to splice speaker wire together when wiring like this. They give you plenty of terminals so it's easier to do.

I'm just curious as to why the Universal option isn't on the subs by default? It doesn't cost any extra money, yet i do not see any disadvantages of having it done to a sub even if you do not want it. So... is there any disadvantage of having it even if someone doesn't want it?

by default, shipping is free to the lower 48 states. I think, my assumption, that due to custom's fees, you may be quoted a slight fee charge.

I didnt know what to make the topic but u guys gotta see this. I plan on firing forward and came across this over at ROE and was shocked... Since by ear i am not going to hear low bass as good as if i fired back, and anything over 60hz is nonsense coming out of a sub to me anyway, am i reading that right? It sucks that they didn't have a BL in that test too but i am rather shocked at a comparison of the q to the btl with double the power difference. I'm still wanting a BL but i noticed according to this chart, right at Fs of the BTL, it drops its output by a noticeable amount. 10hz in either direction it picks it back up. I want a 10" bl but it resonates right around where the 12" BTL does. As you might be able to tell, i like loud as possible. I might have to go with 10" q's correct? My previous goal was 3 10" BLs off of 4,000w. But 3" 10 qs might be louder.

okie dokie

someone must have been naughty. I'm takin a break right now, this is day 3 of sound deadening. I'm lucky it's warm enough to even look outside.