shizzzon

Iraggi makes one for my car but it is not listed on the site! I've talked to him about it a year ago but that was just to see if he made one... he does. But that's all i know. And as far as i know, no one has one that large on a scion tc i might have to take that smile off because i still might not go that high.

Fi, DD, MTX That is the order, in my opinion, for strong SPL usage from best to worse. for music quality - (my opinion) MTX, DD, Fi The Fi and the DD comparison is not fair. They are 2 different classes. Now, if you compared the BTL to the 9500 or 9900, then it be different. You could always compare it to the Z!

well, i can't go with a dual alt setup because there is no room and we all know the bigger the alt, the better but when is it too much? If it's really only like 6 hp then that isnt nothin if it's true. I would be using the same alt as Meade has on his tahoe. Actually, he has 4 now but still it should be the same size case. I was unable to reach Ho-alt, ohio generator, excessive amperage and iraggi alternator on the phone today about the 300a alt question and about it fitting my car. I'll try calling them all tomorrow.

this came from Zena - # Is your engine large enough? For example, if you are driving your alternator with a diesel engine, and assuming adequate flywheel mass and a 3:1 engine drive pulley to alternator pulley ratio, a high efficiency, high current, 12V alternator will require about 1 hp per 30 amps of output power + about 1-2 hp for engine operating/muffling loads -- when operating at its maximum rated output current. Therefore, for a 150 Amp alternator, operating at full output, the expected diesel engine load would be about 7-8 hp. If using a gasoline engine instead of a diesel, with a slightly lower 2 to 2.5:1 drive ratio, figure on a requirement of about 1 hp per 15 amps of output power + about 1-3 hp for engine operating/muffling loads -- i.e., 11-14 hp for a 150A alternator. # Is your charging system large enough to provide a proper load for your engine when being used only for charging at an appropriate engine operating speed? For example, if you are driving your charging system with a diesel engine you want the system to provide enough load so that the engine will be operating within its normal operating parameters (average alternator load when charging between 20-80% of engine's rated output power at the speed chosen for charging). Operating with too small of a load, for extended periods, can contribute to greatly accelerated engine wear. ALSO, operating at too low of an engine speed (regardless of load effects) can be bad for your engine -- carbon deposit buildup, poor cooling, lack of proper lubrication. We recommend that the minimum engine speed used for high amp charging be kept well above the point at which full engine oil pressure is produced and/or above the point at which full cooling system function is realized.

well lets see, watch what happens!! 2 Dual 4ohm subs- Parallel then series version- each dvc4 becomes 2 ohm series 2 2ohm coils to achieve 1 4ohm. Series then parallel version- each dvc4 becomes 8 ohm parallel 2 8ohm coils to achieve 1 4ohm So, for this example, no difference.

Morpheus He told me i was the one.

that's still a great voltage reading at output.

i have no idea how they would know what it's tuned to? I know that isn't like the Wicked One box but i was confused with that design too because the port area changes as the length increases. I'm sure it get's through your desired frequency response nice and smooth doesn't it? All those type of designs do that i have heard people talking about.

As soon as i seen what sub you were using... no wonder, hehe. Did you use 2 1500ds? If you did that's a great score for the power. Hey, take some wrap and wrap your box like you do your amps for your SPL box.

then you could buy it for me,

Actually it is a Fi problem. Their subs are so powerful that nobody has enough money left to purchase alts 'n' batteries after spending thousands on amps.... Ok, instead of downgrading your alternator then changing the way the car idles, why don't know reinstall the ho alt again and take it somewhere and have them get the right belt for it on there. It sounds like you need a different belt for that alt.

no, what i'm saying it that amp is only good it you want to power some co-axials or components. For higher powered applications such as subwoofers, it doesn't deliver what today's subs can do unless you are looking for the lowest entry line possible out of a company. Lanzar's optidrive line is the only line worth getting for subwoofers. You there are a couple more models that aren't in that line but to keep it easy, that's their only good line. You can't really damage a sub regardless of how low the output power is unless you start physically breaking it's mechanical or thermal limits which is almost always caused by clipping.

Those specs sound like an SPLW 15. Dual 1 ohm i take it? If that is what sub this is, they are not for the quality people, that's for sure. I gotta go, i'll be back in a couple hrs. From what i remember, these subs like to peak where you tune them and that's it. I believe the SPLws and the PA MOFOs were just like each other. But i'll find out for sure in a couple hrs.

with that fuse and it being class a/b, you'd be lucky to output 500wrms. I say 300-430w. If you pop the fuses, you went into clipping...

well, it depends if you are gonna actually use the box. I could tell ya just to make up a port size and all that but let me know if you are really planning on using this box for real. If you are, tell me what sub(s) you plan on using in this box and what power it will see. I will then post specs on here for ya to build.

u gotta contact Fi about it. If you try to fix it yourself, you may void your warranty. It doesn't matter where the gain is set at, it matters if it's been clipping or moving too much. You can still clip a sub with the gain all the way down. The gain is not a volume control nor can it be used to estimate voltage input. It's best to either use an o-scope or take it to a shop who knows how to set them up properly. I tell everyone, go to partsexpress.com and buy their velleman o-scope. When i bought mine it was only $250. After going through 3 sets of co-axials and 2 subs... i have never damaged a speaker since.

Has anyone tried this when they were bored or may just know what happens if you take a ported box and install 2 ports in the box, one tuned to let's say 30 hz and the other at 45 hz. I'm just curious as to what happens. Does the box react as if there is a major air leak? Do the port's tuning medium come into play and output a tuned frequency of 38hz for this example?

ok basically according to tests- 2ohm - Lanzar does about 2700w and sundown does about 2500w. Factor in efficiency, Lanzar is pulling about 35 extra amps just to get another 200w to me. Now, that 2700w of power is at 12.6v. I dont know how high or low my voltage will be until everything is hooked up obviously, but with the power and capacity of the alt and batteries is makin me wonder if my voltage will be higher... Because if it can stay above 12.6v then the Lanzar will output more power. Even though it might only do 2700w at 12.6, at 14.4 it does 3,600w. Now, i know my voltage wont be that high but still a debate. I'm gonna continue researching other amps for around the same price and see what i come up with. In the end, if i can't find anything, i might go with the Sundown after all IF i can get it for the price of the Lanzar.

How loud will his be, haha. No but seriously - I was considering purchasing the 6000D because i can get one for only $100 more than the 4000D. I was going to use the 4000D for these 3 10s but hey, why not go with this one, you know? I am not going to deliver that much power to these subs, that is the point to this topic because i will not have the battery power to support the 6000ds potential. The question pertains to the BL's cooling option- Fi says as long as you do not burp the subs then the cooling option is fine for daily. I am planning on setting the amp up to output a real 4,500w(peak spikes) as if i were to have no voltage loss. Sometimes i show off setups using bass tracks and it makes me wonder if i should avoid the cooling option... but if i do, will i not be able to use this much power?

efficiency at 2ohm is 74.5%. I think sundowns is in the mid 80s? Of course i'm gettin a Ho alt, hehe. 300A iraggi, HC1800 and HC2400 in the rear. I might go with another HC2400 in the rear in the future if i want more...

nevermind on this post. I found a link to a test review of this amp done at 14.4v and at 12.6v. Manuf rating - 3000w@4ohm 4000w@2ohm 6000w@1ohm actual test at 14.4v- 2176w@4ohm 3617w@2ohm 4802w@1ohm actual test at 12.6v- 1638w@4ohm 2704w@2ohm 3894w@1ohm Cost - $999 shipped. Depending on my electrical system strength will determine if i need any more options for the BLs. I was looking into the sundown 3000D but for the price, this 6000d seems to just tackle the 3000d if you got a hefty electrical system and just barely if you do not.

just add a another sheet of wood to the outside of the box, that will not change anything. This is what i have for you based on graphing software for this box- 2.3 cu ft using that port length- box will be tuned to 35hz. And i made a mistake of my own! the displacement of the port actually is - 2.75" x 13.5" x 19.75" (0.75" thick for baffle) If you plan on adding another layer, subtract another 0.75" from the INTERNAL port length. Since the baffle counts as part of port length when it exits, 2 layers would be 1.5" worth of port. If you need any more help, let us know

pretty good for your first try. There's only 1 thing you forgot to calculate displacement-wise, you're gonna say "OH yea!" on this one, hehe. The port displacement you say is 2" wide, 13.5" high, 20.5" deep this is a slot port i take it? If it is, then 2 walls of the enclosure will be used for the port as well. Usually, the floor and the side wall, but since your port equals the height of your enclosure, then the top will also be used for your port. The only remaining side left is the port wall... which is 0.75" thick. So the port displacement of 2.75" wide x 13.5" high x 20.5" deep = 0.44 cu ft minus .15 for sub displacement equaling - 2.31 cu ft internal.

if your pro amp is 2 channel, take each pair of subs and parallel them and run them to 1 channel. If you rpro amp is only 1 channel, you will have to wire them at 4 ohms which is parallel each pair of subs again, you will be left with one + and one - from each box, take the + form box "A" and splice it into the - from box "B". Take take the remainder - form box "A" and + form box "B" and run that to your pro amp(again do this method only if one channel.)

I have scoured the internet last week and found nothing that can do this for real... I only found one amp, can't remember the amp but definitely could not do 200w x 4 @4ohm with a 60A fuse... I am trying to find an amp that can do 200w x 4 @4ohm so i do not have to get 2 amps that can do 200wx2 @ 4ohm. It's a space issue. Anybody know of such? And i do not plan on getting the 15K rockford amp.