shizzzon

ok, hehe, kinda misunderstood what i was askin. johnecon2001- i know how to setup an active x-over, but as what ///M5 said about shutting the x-over's off the amps, -- What if i can't? If i purchase amp(s) where you cannot shut the filter off, don't i just run the mid\high amp full pass and the sub amp at high LPF with subsonic filter as low as possible? If the Active X-over cuts and narrows all frequencies before it reaches the amp, it only makes sense to me to open the amp's playable frequency range up as much as possible so i do not accidentally cut more frequencies out than wanted\needed.. So, is that correct procedure for that scenario?

2 bls for that amp, if you had more power, go with AQ.

This is not for show yet this is not powered like this during daily driving either. For the power ratings you are seeing, yes, it would be played like that with no one in the car. I used to just run 1 15" off of 1000w and after a few minutes, i would have to give my head rest for a while and we know that higher frequencies cause damage sooner than lower to ears. I've been to plenty of concerts and i know what my threshold is, let alone i work in a noisy environment anyway. If i can't take 1000w from 1 15, you know i wont be able to take 2 12s at 3Kw for any length of time. The high power ratings is for show, yes, but not ran like that for daily driving.

oh yea, it's possible, but you will end up killing the sub. Don't ask me what happens but you should never leave a voice coil disconnected... Now, if it's damaged, hmm, what would happen? I do know that with 3 coils, they will not all get the same power which is another problem. If you wire all in parallel, 2 coils will be 0.7 ohms, where the other coil is still 1.4 before joining together with the 0.7 wire. All in all, lot's of leary assuming goin on here, contact the manufacturer and ask them.

i didnt hear what you said JimJ?

Well, i do like to do stuff that is just.. well different. I was going to install 2 marine speakers right behind my grill, yes under the hood, for showing off, controlled by a switch on the remote line. But, if these tweeters are really that powerful, i wouldnt have to buy that setup. Those tweeters alone, facing the front of the car, installed just above the rear seats would be screaming loud, if it's true. The fronts i posted above should be loud enough along with some midbass drivers running about 125w per in the rear should be plenty of power to run with a 3000w amp. I just wanna make sure i do overkill on stereo power, i can set things down, i can't just make power appear if necessary.

well, i have heard of this happening but do not know how it's possible but I read a while back that a big con of filtering MAC address is when a hacker got in, he would clone one of the filtered mac addresses to his NIC, gain full access somehow, then remove all other MAC addresses so only he can be on your network. Do not ask me where or how this is possible, i just know it's "supposedly" possible, but with hacking, anything's possible.

I'm not network admin savvy but i have heard of some sort of wifi sniffer that can slowly but successfully steal a WEP key, so who knows what other tools are out there for hackers.

Hey JimJ or anyone else who may know this- This is a new product therefore there are no reviews that i could find but after going through the website for a little bit, this tweeter is hella crazy- Audiopipe's ATX-6650 I know the brand seems like i'm wasting my time but i am looking for loud, not perfecto sound quality but it's still capable with the right tuning. Anyways, the specs are ungodly - 4" High Power Horn Tweeter with a 2.8" Ferro-fluid Enhanced Voice coil and 130oz mag Fre response - 2Khz - 25Khz Handling - 400wrms Sensitivity - 105Db Supposedly retails for just over $100\per but can be had as a pair for about $125. One question though - it says they come with a crossover capacitor. This isn't something that will resist power will it? I know that sounds like a stupid way of wording it but a LONG time ago, i bought these 300w rated tweeters for only $3 a pair but they had some internal "something" that heavily resisted power because these things were not that loud whatsoever and were made from a company that shouldnt even exist.

but password cracking is so easy now. You can use a PS3 to crack passwords in minutes.

i thought about using bolts as speaker terminals for the box but never tested their conductivity and chose not to in the end. IF you are serious about what gauge size, get the specs out here. To achieve a certain wattage, you must multiply volts and amps together. If you have never set a DMM on speaker output of an amp, then you will not know that voltage output, depending on the amp, can go well over 200volts. You will also not know that if you have a sub wired to a certain ohm load, let's say 1 ohm(or DCR 0.7), that during playback, it could be over 4 ohm. now, there's no sense in guessing how much power each frequency will produce so just take the amp's maximum rating. Examples - 1200w @ 1ohm = 35v, 35a 1200w @ 2ohm = 50v, 25a 2500w @ 1ohm = 50v, 50a Get the picture? Now, since you know that, now let's see how thick of wire you need for a good transfer of current. go here - http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm That website is suppose to be to find out how thick of wire you need for your power wire, but you, at least, get to see the resistance ratings for each gauge size all the way up to 1/0 wire. I do not think voltage drop can be a relevant spec for speaker wire considering how high voltage output is on an amp. If you look, you can see that the thicker the wire, the less resistance. Going from 16 to 14 gauge is a pretty big difference. Going from 14 to 10 gauge is a big difference as well. Larger than 10 gauge - 6 or 4 gauge will probably be noticeable but that's if you can get it to fit in there.

this is not from experience so i am only going by what someone told me in the past. running port(s) through a rear deck area is only good for SPL. Trying to get the lows to be crazy loud, vent needs to be facing toward the rear or a simpler explanation, sub and port on same wall. I know you do not have to do that with every type box but this is what has been told to me a long time ago. I had inquired about running ports through rear deck several years ago ONLY because that was the way sound could get into the cabin area. I used to drive an older model crown vic.

Littering and...littering and...littering and...Littering and smoking the refer.

well, i am actually thinking about putting something above the rear seats attached to the sub box but have not done any modeling yet but i know it may be capable. I'm just confused right now on the rear speakers. IF i were to replace my rear speakers with midbass woofers, i could then, if i wanted to, run horns behind the rear seats. I have never messed with components before so i am lost when it comes to where i should x-over the mids and highs at...never had to do it before. I'm sure with enough playin with them i'll find out what sounds good.

well that's good info to know, never heard of that before, gotta remember this one. And, i fuse at both ends of the power line. 12" from battery and about the same for the amp. I use a Smart fuse block near all my amps, regardless of class, so if it drops below 12v, it will shut the pwoer off going to them. I know most amps can go below 12v but i feel if it shuts off because it went under 12v, then i need a better electrical setup. So far, it has only shut off in setups i've had when the car is off and jammin for a few minutes. Cadence and i think Rockford Fosgate makes em. I have the Cadence model FH-8

This is what i do- Determine how many pcs will be on your network always. Me, i always have 4 pcs connected. Now, go to all of these pcs, go to start, run, type in cmd press enter. Type in - ipconfig/all then press enter. write down the MAC address of every pc. Now, you should be set. In your router's config page, set the maximum number of pcs to allow on the network at any given time. Now, go to the MAC filter page and type in every MAC address of these pcs AND any other pc that may ever need to get on the network but not necessarily on all the time(pc you would still trust that is). What this does is ONLY allow those pcs access to your network physically. Lastly, set your encryption method to WPA or PKIS with AES encryption. Do some research on which you think is the BEST. Then of course set your encryption key. With this method, someone will also have to know this 56 digit key(i think it's that long) just to logon, and then they could only get on if at least 1 of the pcs on your network is turned off, but then they would also have to have the same MAC address as another pc which means they would have had to be in your house and found your MAC address of another pc and disable it's internet use right before they sign on. Sounds like something in a movie, hehe. Hope that helps.

you could damage the set with 150w of non-clipped power. It depends what is playing. What if you were playing a 5khz test tone for a while... that could probably kill the tweeter. It depends on where the majority of the frequencies is being played at. For music, it's usually playing a very broad range. If components are rated for 200wrms, i wouldnt go no higher than 250 non-clipped or maybe right at 200, depending on how it's setup. x-overs, i believe, allow you to cut the tweeter down, -3, -6, that's how it can handle the power with the rest of the set, but again, it depends on how it's setup...

it will be close but should be just 1 sheet even with a double baffle for subs. Depends on the way you cut the pieces you need out too. MDF comes in 49" x 97" sheets.

well, due to problems finding reducers from 4/0 to 1/0, i decided to go with Stinger's new XperT series wire and reducers. 3/0 wire with 1/0 reducers. www.darvex.com sells them, wire has over 6,200 strands in it and is flat wire as well so easy to run under things without bulging up.

I need 15/0 AWG size who makes it? ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Haha, did i make you think i was retarded for a minute or just straight crazy?, hehe No but seriously, does anyone know where i can get 2/0 or maybe even 3/0 wire? Also, I would need to know anyone who makes battery terminals for these sizes and or the following- fused distribution capability non fused distro capability 2/0 to 1/0 reducers or 3/0 to 1/0 reducers. Reasoning- Lanzar's engineers should be smacked in the face for being retarded. They released a 6000D, 6,000w amp with ONLY 1 set of power and ground terminals! Hifonics Goliath is only a 5kw amp and it has 2 sets! Anyways, i was doin some research and anything over 4.5 ft, yes, that's 54 inches, of 1/0 wire for 600A of current will cause the wire to melt down. So, better make it no longer than 4ft long, huh? 1/0 wiring for 4 ft is 0.3v drop, pretty big for just 4 ft. 3/0 is only 0.14v drop, 2/0 is 0.24v Any info?

hehe, when i gave the scenario of those amps still drawing power when car is off, the amp IS OFF when doing so!. That was the whole point of the "crazy" factor of the story. They draw so little, mA's amount that i guess with that many amps, it was too much. Now, i don't know if they are suppose to do that or not but just lettin u know thats why i chose not to anymore. And now i understant what u said. Your yellow wire is basically your power wire for your HU, u just fed a brand new power wire to your HU and it's fine? if that's true, then your factory wire harness or your wire harness adapter has a connection issue. Basically, it's getting enough power now, before, it just had enough power to run the HU, for more features such as run remote line, it have that problem. Sounds right to me. Still not normal though. I would find out why you had to run a new power line rather than just keeping it that way. What if some more wires in your harness stop working? You know what... it's been a while since i wired a stereo. Is the ignition wire even in a wire harness? Now that i think about it, i don't think it is since it's the largest wire next to the ground wire and power antennae wire. I'm confusing myself now, i'll shut up.

because the remote wire is a turn on\off wire, not a "go into protect" wire. I was gonna say run the remote line from your amp to your ignition wire but the disadvantage can sometimes occur- It's possible sometimes, i dont know how, but i've heard it happening before, large quantities of amps' remote wires tied into a constant 12v wire can drain a battery in several days of no use. I don't know how but it has happened. So, because i do not know how it happened, having an amp on the ignition wire at all worries me anymore so i stopped doin it a few years ago. Also, to be picky, if you decided not to have your stereo on at all, running amp through constant power wire will make the amp draw idle current even though it's not in use. It shouldnt be much but still is there. If i had to guess... maybe 2 amps, just nit picking to give u some info.

really, that's retarded, i hope they never put that "option" in any head units nowadays. If i had an amp just shut off completely, i turn hu off then on again and it's fine from then on, but it only shut off from a quick high volume turn on, or whatever you did, sounds like a remote wire issue. If it ever does it again while you are just jamming, check remote wire first and then ground. If ground is good, buy a relay and put it in line with your remote wire. I got a 20A relay on my remote line, just imagine all the add-ons i can do!! You can get diagrams i believe from 12volt.com for properly wiring the relay to add any addition to your stereo system through the relay so it doesn't stress the HU.

Jimj - i thought it was every 3 db for human ear? I know theoretically, doubling power should give you 3db hence, 3db is a doubling of power but i thought it also pertained to the ear as well..?

just by me typing words, let me see if i can make you understand why he says his 2 15s are probably louder than your 4 15s. Let me begin - Your amps- each one is probably averaging around 600-1100w before clipping induces(that's why you keep damaging your subs because your box isn't large enough, in my opinion, to bottom out those subs and damage coils). So, both amps - 1200-2200w(2200w being an assumed peak before clipping induces). You probably expect more from your amps so the volume gets cranked which induces clipping. If you used an o-scope, you would know what the maximum safe volume is before you start causing damage to your subs. Now, let me go and talk about the subs- You have 4 15s in 4 separate chambers. You would have been better off making all 1 common chamber or the least making 2 common chambers for all 4 subs but this is not the problem. Problem - expecting wild and crazy bass from a sealed design when i bet the sound you are expecting comes from a ported design. You can make a ported box all different kinds of way by where you want it to peak at but let me give you a basic scenario of what happens- You "might" very well possibly be louder than bigjon frequencies starting at 50 or maybe 55 on up. Big Jon probably has his box tuned low, 30-35hz i'm just assuming, and trust me, if he does, hehe, he is VERY VERY loud, way louder than your setup in the range of ~ 30-45hz(guesstimate). But why do i say that? Reason - In a sealed box, only the front wave of the sub is in effect or is the main bass producer i could say. In a ported box, not only is the front wave in use, but the rear wave is also by slamming inside the box and able to exit via a vent acting as another sub in itself as to speak. Simply put, ported boxes are a LOT more efficient than sealed and that's a fact. Efficiency meaning a ported box has been claimed of being up to 9db more efficient than sealed as i have read before in the past somewhere. Typical expectations of efficiency is around 4-6db, and for every 3 db is a doubling of power according to the human ear! Now, big jon without a doubt just based on experience is more than likely louder than you by a good stretch on the low end bass. Your low end sound in your car is not quiet, that's not what i am saying, i'm just saying big jon's is a LOT louder without a doubt. Just in the higher frequencies, ported boxes tend to slowly roll back down losing spl whereas sealed doesn't so in higher frequencies, you may be louder but just not in the low end by a good deal.