shizzzon

if you want extreme lows, play a different song, hehe. I'll wait for Fi or an experienced user to answer your question for certain but i would assume the Q would have better response due it's better SQ performance in the low end range. I'm not saying the BL won't be good for lows because i am getting 2 BL 10s for the same purpose as you but am running 3x more power than your Crossfire's birthsheet. The BL is what you are gonna need and at the minimum i keep seeing the P Chamfer as a high recommendation for an add-on option. The BL is also more efficient than the Q is according to specs.

yea, sounds like me too, "savin up", hehe. I just installed an Alpine IVA-W205 in the tC. Now, i'm waiting for the Blackbird II Nav unit to come out again... it's on backorder. As soon as it does, it's that and\or the subs...

I've been researching Fi's products and askin questions here and there and am finally set on what i wanna do so i'm gonna lay the plan out for everybody and see what you all think. It may take a while to do this because i need to buy the subs, amps wood and plexiglass... so don't expect it within the month. This will be going in a 2007 Scion tC. in the rear hatch area- 2 10" Fi BL Dual 2 ohm(1.4) 2 Lanzar OptiDrive 2000Ds (4,000w capable) I chose these so i can wire the subs to a 1.4ohm DC rest load and strap these 2000Ds. The 2000Ds strapped at 1ohm produce ~4KW but at 2 ohms, produce ~3,200w. After resistance rise, this should max these subs out fairly well. I will be getting the P Chamfer, Cooling Option, FlatWind and Universal options. These will be installed in a 1.7cuft ported box tuned to 32-33hz. Powered off of 1 or 2 Kinetik HC2000s in the back and either an HC1600 or HC1800 under the hood. Alternator will come later but will be an Iraggi 300A alt. I need to regain some HP in this car once i do this so some performance modifications will be coming soon as well.

yea, that's the largest i can go with what i am throwin in there. I gotta keep the port velocity low so the port displacement in this box is taking up quite a bit of room. 1.7 is still within the 1.0-2.4 recommended limit for 2 10s.

if your askin what should the voltage be from the amp output... that's impossible for us to answer. Resistance changes with frequency, power(volume setting), box type and build, etc... The only real way to setup an amp properly is with an oscilloscope. IF your amp is suppose to do 1200w @1ohm, the max voltage it can do at 1 ohm according to rating CLEAN is about 35v. But if the amp is rated to do, lets say 400w @ 4ohm, you would see 40v. You might be able to get 40v at 1 ohm too if you were competin and blastin the hell out of it. Point is just with voltage, you wont get anywhere. You would have to have an ammeter hooked up to it and calculate the resistance on the fly and THEN go by a chart or by what someone has recommended the voltage to be set to at a given resistance. Mind you, the above "so-so" test woul be tested on only 1 frequency, it is best to go through a lot of frequencies to get the smoothest adjustments possible and to ensure no frequencies are clipping, hence... an ocilloscope comes in play. Vellerman sells one for under $250, it's handheld.

based upon researching Sundown Audio, you just fully answered my question, Thank You,

I want to make sure of this so i know what kind of amps to buy. Are Fi's subs rated before or after impedance rise? This is very important. Giving examples- Audiobahn Eternal rated at 900wrms Audioque HD3 rated at 1000wrms I ran 1 eternal off of a 1250wrms amp and partially damaged it with a test tone for 42seconds with 100% clean signal reading from oscilloscope. the power it was ACTUALLY receiving - 334w! Conclusion - Audiobahn rated this sub before rise. I ran 1 Audioque off of a 2,500w amp and i ran test tones, bass tracks, clipped songs(intentionally) and never damaged the sub. The power it was ACTUALLY receiving - 1,413w. Conclusion - Audioque rated this sub after rise! If i want to run the Qs or BLs which are rated at 1000wrms, IF the above is answered, it will let me know whether to purchase a 1000w amp or a 2,000w amp with an EQ used to prevent frequencies from exceeding 1,000w.

i think u are missing what i am saying. I know a lot of companies rate their subs by what amp rating they want you to use so the "General Public" can have a long lasting setup. However, some companies i have had experience with, Audioque as being one, rates their subs AFTER rise. I should probably clarify that by saying, they rate their subs off of TRUE power than just by amplifier rated power. My last setup, Audioque, was a choice i made because a competitor convinced me to use their HD3 sub for daily since he did off of 1 Hifonics Colossus amp, 3,200w amp on a 1,000w rated sub and never had a problem. An EQ can boost or cut different frequencies. If you cut power to certain frequencies, the wattage being sent to them would then be less... If the wattage that was being sent to them was way too high, an EQ can fix that by reducing the power being sent around that center frequency. If you were to setup a sub to play a range between 25-80hz and were to meter the receiving power let's say every 8hz starting with 25hz, their would be a variation in wattage that the sub is receiving because of tuning of box and box build itself. Not every frequency will be reading at MAX amplitude on an oscilloscope from my own experience and to get the max power out of your playable frequency range, you can use an EQ to boost those frequencies which aren't maxing in amplitude and cut those who may be clipping. That is what this whole post is about. Using an amp that may be a little bit more powerful than necessary so all frequencies(or as many as possible) can be within the proper wattage receiving threshold. No frequencies clipping but as many as possible receiving max amplitude and no frequency being metered as outputting more power than was is safe for any Fi sub. I'm sure if i hook up a 100w amp...it isnt worth hooking an o-scope too. If i hookup a 10,000w amp to an SSD, proper cutting of the power on every center frequency of an EQ i set can still play that sub safely for daily as long as it stays within it's power handling limits. Again, that's what this whole post is about. For a Q or BL, will a 1,000w amp max out it's power handling capabilities because i know i cant get 1,000w out of a 1,000w amp for daily or should i step up to a 2,000w amp and ensure that the sub doesnt receive over 1,000w at any frequency if that is it's real thermal threshold if that is how they are tested.... by real power rather than by amplifier rated power...

since your comparin amps by price to performance ratio, why don't you just get 4 opti4000ds? They can be had for $900 per amp, 4000w @1ohm. You get a lot more power than what u lookin for for only $100 more. OF course if u dont want it, just turn it down.

i have a maximum of 42" wide x 12" high x 19.25" deep i can use keeping everything else stock. The amps will be mounted on top of the box but an extra Kinetik battery in the back WILL take up some of this box room. After some calculations, i came up with 2.8-3.0cuft NET after displacements for the 2 following setups- 3 10" Fi Qs SEALED off of 4,000w or... 2 10" Fi BLs PORTED at 34hz off of 3,000w I wish i could do 12s but i do not think subs and port up would sound good. PS- i dont have room to do 12s unless i aim them up and can only do them if i port up as well...i have no boxes to test how that would sound either...)

I cannot port back because I need to install a kinetik HC2400 battery, opti4000D amp, w 4 channel amp, 30 band EQ, 3 way crossover and power inverter back there which all would have to be mounted in front of the port which would cause problems. I was just talking to someone where I'm at and they said that going sealed in hatch-ed cars always seem to be better in his experience. Now, he isn't no car audio fanatic but I'm wondering how loud sealed really is because I have always been ported and like the lows. As long as I got good loud response down to 26hz and consistent db numbers from 32 - 55hz +/- 3db tolerance, I'm satisfied.