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shizzzon

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Posts posted by shizzzon


  1. it wasnt.

     

    It's the same as liljestrand's, 2008 scion xb.

     

    I had originally planned on running air again on this car and mounting it all under the cargo floor because there is lots of room there.

     

    However, once i started building the wall, i no longer have access to inside cargo floor so all fasteners would need to stay outside of the vehicle..  

    There is no framework to attach to on the outside unless you create your own.

     

    Also, with 4 runs of 4/0 going up through the cargo floor dead center under the car, i only have half the width to install a tank.. and with currently no place to mount it.

     

    Ironically, pancake tanks are too big.

     

    I have found a decent 2gal tank but i think i want to do something a little different.. 

     

    In my last install, i had independent air lines because weight distribution is never equal.

     

     

    So.. this is what i'm thinking if i do air-

     

    2 air struts, each on their own line ran to their own compressor.

    Air spring reservoirs are so small that any compressor can air them up quick.


  2. You keep pushing this advice as if it's the answer for everything.  That's why you keep getting shut down.

     

    Caps are for burst power, not for reserve.  

     

    They have the potential to be unsafe, extremely expensive, i can go on and on.

     

    Until UCs have the ability to replace batteries, then it's not interesting.

     

    Most people are after reserve in this hobby and those that only want short bursts of power will want UCs.

     

    The only reason why our local guy gets away with 16 banks of them is because of his alternator ability.

     

    He's pulling just under 3,000A for 5sec or less before they drop to ~10.5v and shut amp off.

    going through XS power and spending just over $1k will net you the same ability.

     

    Caps may have an edge on the meter in this scenario but batts will recover.. caps wont.

     

    No Reserve.. not worth it.


  3. And if its at idle less then that. Search big three on here or google.

    Or just help him out and tell him since this is a car audio forum.

    The Big 3 is upgrading your wire under the hood and leaving factory wire intact:

    (Add a 1/0 wire or #2 wire like you have now).

    1. Wire from positive battery post to positive alternator post.

    2. Wire from negative battery post to bolt on the engine block.

    3. Wire from negative battery post to bolt on the frame or strut tower, whichever is easier.

    .

     

    This wire should be as close to the alternator as possible if not on the actual casing if there is a bolt for ground.

     

    This wire is used in conjunction with the upgraded power wire to battery from alt to properly supply power to the front battery without voltage drop.


  4. From all the years of randomly meeting idiots with the lack of any knowledge, showing or even playing your setup for someone is not going to win over many retards out there.

     

    They'll always say something exactly like this-

     

    Yea, oh man.. That was loud.  My uncle (or who the hell ever they name) used to be(it's always used to) into car audio and he competed(of course, the whole world must have competed as well back in the day) and blew out his windshield(just like a tornado. That should be a bible story.) 

     

    So to prevent themselves from looking dumbfounded, they manifest a highly exaggerated story on how something happened(which never did) that would put your system to shame. You can't argue with idiots so I screen people.

     

    IF i think or believe they are 100% retard, they will not be privileged to listen to the setup.  

     

    These are the kind of people that are not curious on how you built it or how loud it gets but just to joke on it because they do not have the ability to comprehend anything new in life they come across so they dispute any and all facts of knowledge.

     

    This is full retard and again, nope, not privileged.

     

    So pay attention to who you talk to because these people will spread information so twisted that it could make any brand look very bad.


  5. I'm going to worn you to just say this-

     

    You better have lots of "capital" and money just floating around.

     

    Rules change every year.. every other year.

     

    IF you manufacturer products to squeeze the last bit out of any particular league, they will change the rules to prevent such products from being used in context.  It would mean only those running that product would win.  That's a rule change for sure right there.


  6. That's awesome.

     

    I will say this.. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER buy SecondSkin's B stock if it has anything to do with the adhesive layer being different than advertised.

     

    I had bought a shit ton of it a long time ago because i have tools to install it assuming i could force it to work in vertical applications.. Yea, i guess i was dreaming.

     

    IF you are installing B stock SS damp or spl tiles on the floor, then that's fine..  I installed em all on the roof with a heat gun forcefully pressed.

     

    Anyone who knows me personally knows i overkill EVERYTHING.  I'll melt the bitch and roll the shit through the roof if i have to to get it to stick.. 

     

    Long story short, it ALL started to fall in less than a week.

     

    Now, i see SDS has thinner adhesive. Let's hope it's not vertically effected. Keep that in mind.

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