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shizzzon

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Posts posted by shizzzon

  1. Posted

    u gotta contact Fi about it. If you try to fix it yourself, you may void your warranty.

    It doesn't matter where the gain is set at, it matters if it's been clipping or moving too much.

    You can still clip a sub with the gain all the way down. The gain is not a volume control nor can it be used to estimate voltage input. It's best to either use an o-scope or take it to a shop who knows how to set them up properly.

    I tell everyone, go to partsexpress.com and buy their velleman o-scope. When i bought mine it was only $250. After going through 3 sets of co-axials and 2 subs... i have never damaged a speaker since.

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  2. Posted

    ok basically according to tests-

    2ohm -

    Lanzar does about 2700w and sundown does about 2500w.

    Factor in efficiency, Lanzar is pulling about 35 extra amps just to get another 200w to me.

    Now, that 2700w of power is at 12.6v. I dont know how high or low my voltage will be until everything is hooked up obviously, but with the power and capacity of the alt and batteries is makin me wonder if my voltage will be higher...

    Because if it can stay above 12.6v then the Lanzar will output more power.

    Even though it might only do 2700w at 12.6, at 14.4 it does 3,600w. Now, i know my voltage wont be that high but still a debate.

    I'm gonna continue researching other amps for around the same price and see what i come up with.

    In the end, if i can't find anything, i might go with the Sundown after all IF i can get it for the price of the Lanzar.

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  4. Posted

    nevermind on this post.

    I found a link to a test review of this amp done at 14.4v and at 12.6v.

    Manuf rating -

    3000w@4ohm

    4000w@2ohm

    6000w@1ohm

    actual test at 14.4v-

    2176w@4ohm

    3617w@2ohm

    4802w@1ohm

    actual test at 12.6v-

    1638w@4ohm

    2704w@2ohm

    3894w@1ohm

    Cost - $999 shipped.

    Depending on my electrical system strength will determine if i need any more options for the BLs.

    I was looking into the sundown 3000D but for the price, this 6000d seems to just tackle the 3000d if you got a hefty electrical system and just barely if you do not.

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  5. Posted

    just add a another sheet of wood to the outside of the box, that will not change anything.

    This is what i have for you based on graphing software for this box-

    2.3 cu ft using that port length-

    box will be tuned to 35hz.

    And i made a mistake of my own!

    the displacement of the port actually is - 2.75" x 13.5" x 19.75" (0.75" thick for baffle)

    If you plan on adding another layer, subtract another 0.75" from the INTERNAL port length.

    Since the baffle counts as part of port length when it exits, 2 layers would be 1.5" worth of port.

    If you need any more help, let us know

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  6. Posted

    pretty good for your first try. There's only 1 thing you forgot to calculate displacement-wise, you're gonna say "OH yea!" on this one, hehe.

    The port displacement you say is 2" wide, 13.5" high, 20.5" deep

    this is a slot port i take it?

    If it is, then 2 walls of the enclosure will be used for the port as well.

    Usually, the floor and the side wall, but since your port equals the height of your enclosure, then the top will also be used for your port. The only remaining side left is the port wall... which is 0.75" thick.

    So the port displacement of 2.75" wide x 13.5" high x 20.5" deep = 0.44 cu ft minus .15 for sub displacement equaling -

    2.31 cu ft internal.

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  7. Posted

    if your pro amp is 2 channel, take each pair of subs and parallel them and run them to 1 channel.

    If you rpro amp is only 1 channel, you will have to wire them at 4 ohms which is parallel each pair of subs again, you will be left with one + and one - from each box, take the + form box "A" and splice it into the - from box "B". Take take the remainder - form box "A" and + form box "B" and run that to your pro amp(again do this method only if one channel.)

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  10. Posted

    you are gonna need to make a choice as well. 2 12s or 1 15, that's 2 different amp setups as well.

    Another thing is, where are you buying these subs?

    Online, private seller, audio shop?

    you say you have a budget of a few hundred. what all does this budget cover? hopefully it doesn't include the subs if buying new.

    No disrespect but i hate to try and help people point them in the direction just to fit the bill rather than fit the proper setup.

    I've had too many personal experiences of people saying $2K for that? i can do lot better with different equipment... sadly, nobody i know personally in educated in car audio at all and all come back to me for help.

    So, if you are just a basshead and are envying bass, make sure that you got the money before buying a setup that just comes on and makes sound.

    Having been through so much crap that isn't my fault such as theft and learning a LOT by researching online, i can tell you this-

    Your budget won't cover sound deadening. If your equipment is ever stolen, you better talk with your insurance company beforehand to see what you must do to make sure your aftermarket equipment is covered.

    Do your research before taking our advice and run.

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  12. Posted

    check this out... if this theory works.

    According to box graphing-

    Take 1 sub in a 1.0 cu ft enclosure after all displacements.

    give it 1,500w of power tuned to 32hz.

    Recommended port area for flanged port is 12sq in.

    non bended port and port displacement -

    4" port (12.57sqin) 29.5" long

    displacement - 0.209 cu ft

    Same tuning with this wack theory, hehe -

    26hz tune for 2" port -

    2" port (3.16sqin) 10.75" long

    38hz tune for 4" port -

    4" port (12.57sqin) 20.0" long

    Port displacement for both ports combined - 0.158 cu ft!

    Total port area - 15.73 sq in!

    Result-

    If this theory works, you gain more port area AND lower port displacement.

    Pretty interesting if it's true... and audibly satisfying.

    Old school port, slot port -

    (just for reference)

    slot required 16sqin per cube vs aero recommendation at 12sqin per cube.

    4x4 port sharing 2 of 4 walls using 0.75" mdf with length 39" long subtracting 2" for active length running along wall.

    Port displacement of slot - 0.473 cu ft!

    Now tell me if that isn't a major difference!

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  13. Posted

    The Rockford references including the T15004, RF no longer offers that on their website.

    The Memphis 5004 is not powerful enough. The Kicker SX is no longer offered, the ZX is 175x4 as stated before, just shy of the rating. The main problem with this amp though is it's still to long. I'm tryin to find one that can do this 19" long or shorter.

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  15. Posted

    Holy God, JimJ, hehe, that ms1000 is a beast! However, even if i could get one new(used one goin for over $1K), the amp is extremely too long for my application, 1 inch shy of 3ft!

    Those ZX amps... they don't. Their largest one the 850.4, i don't know the 4ohm rating but 2ohm is 215x4 so i know the 4ohm is lower, it may be close but no cigar, hehe.

    I may be forced to just use 150x4s. I really like the new JLaudio HD600/4 if i can get it for a decent price when they come out. It retails for $799 when they come out. I also have the choice of goin with Alpine's PDX. These are my fallback options.

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  16. Posted · Edited by shizzzon

    I have scoured the internet last week and found nothing that can do this for real...

    I only found one amp, can't remember the amp but definitely could not do 200w x 4 @4ohm with a 60A fuse...

    I am trying to find an amp that can do 200w x 4 @4ohm so i do not have to get 2 amps that can do 200wx2 @ 4ohm. It's a space issue.

    Anybody know of such?

    And i do not plan on getting the 15K rockford amp.

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  17. Posted

    This is for daily driver.

    About the vibration, that's why i mentioned gluing and bolting it to a wall.

    I seriously do not see vibrations possible occurring with glue and bolts.

    I was thinking about this because it virtually takes up no volume inside of the enclosure.

    So, since you guys think it's a bad idea, can you please elaborate as to why and maybe some other methods besides all-thread(i already know about this) that i can use that takes up virtually no volume either. This is for a ported box looking for an expected 148-150db worth of pressure.

    Also, if i choose to use all-thread, how would i brace the baffle(the top of the box) and the bottom of the box?

    I do not know anything else to say, hehe.

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  18. Posted

    I've thought about doing this and recently seen someone actually use this method but never commented on how good it was.

    In instances where all-thread cannot be used.. how about running those flat steel bars that Lowes sells on the inside of the box?

    Those are humanly unbendable.... it's steel.

    I was thinking about running those, gluing them to the box, drill out contact points, maybe 1 every 12", run bolt through to the outside, threadlock it and use a large washer on the outside of the box with a nut of course.

    Seal around the steel bar. These bars, if i am not mistaken, are only like 1\8th" thick. Shouldnt' that make the wall it is attached to hella strong?

    I see no need in running steel bars on the outside...

    Just make sure that the steel bar run is glued, bolted and sealed around so no air can seep underneath it.

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  20. Posted

    If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor).

    Subwoofer mounting -

    What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install.

    I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, hurricane nuts tend to be a lot better than t-nuts for MDF. Just put a dab of glue on the nut, hammer it in, then drive a bolt through.

    As simple as it seems, since i have never used hurricane nuts, for 3\4" wood, how long of a bolt do i use with nuts like these?

    Is there any other method for high strength securing or is this method pretty damn good?

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  21. Posted

    Well... since you are typing in specifics all the way down to a 1\1000th of an inch, to reach 37hz tuning, the length should be 15.460", not 15.920".

    So, to retain that port area and tune down to 35hz, the length(including the width of the baffle it exits out of) needs to be - 17.990", or just make it 18" long. Subtract the thickness of the baffle from 18" to find the length of the port itself.

    However.... in slotted ports, the entrance of the port is NOT where the active length starts at.

    Usually, you would take the internal width of the slot, divide in half then add that to the length of the port to determine it's beginning active length.

    So.... if your slot port is 5" wide, then 2.5" before the entrance actually acts as part of the port IF AND ONLY IF one of the walls of the slot port is the wall to the box itself.

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  23. Posted

    well just to keep curiosity goin, let's say that you need a port longer than what will fit without bending. So, you instead fabricate the remaining required length for a 2nd port which makes the medium of both ports equal your desired tuning.

    Now, i'm sure there has to be something bad about this compared to just making the port correct the way you are suppose to but still interesting.

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  25. Posted

    How loud will his be, haha.

    No but seriously -

    I was considering purchasing the 6000D because i can get one for only $100 more than the 4000D. I was going to use the 4000D for these 3 10s but hey, why not go with this one, you know?

    I am not going to deliver that much power to these subs, that is the point to this topic because i will not have the battery power to support the 6000ds potential.

    The question pertains to the BL's cooling option-

    Fi says as long as you do not burp the subs then the cooling option is fine for daily. I am planning on setting the amp up to output a real 4,500w(peak spikes) as if i were to have no voltage loss. Sometimes i show off setups using bass tracks and it makes me wonder if i should avoid the cooling option... but if i do, will i not be able to use this much power?

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