shizzzon
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Posts posted by shizzzon
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This is what i do-
Determine how many pcs will be on your network always. Me, i always have 4 pcs connected.
Now, go to all of these pcs, go to start, run, type in cmd press enter.
Type in - ipconfig/all then press enter.
write down the MAC address of every pc.
Now, you should be set.
In your router's config page, set the maximum number of pcs to allow on the network at any given time.
Now, go to the MAC filter page and type in every MAC address of these pcs AND any other pc that may ever need to get on the network but not necessarily on all the time(pc you would still trust that is).
What this does is ONLY allow those pcs access to your network physically.
Lastly, set your encryption method to WPA or PKIS with AES encryption. Do some research on which you think is the BEST. Then of course set your encryption key.
With this method, someone will also have to know this 56 digit key(i think it's that long) just to logon, and then they could only get on if at least 1 of the pcs on your network is turned off, but then they would also have to have the same MAC address as another pc which means they would have had to be in your house and found your MAC address of another pc and disable it's internet use right before they sign on.
Sounds like something in a movie, hehe.
Hope that helps.
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you could damage the set with 150w of non-clipped power. It depends what is playing. What if you were playing a 5khz test tone for a while... that could probably kill the tweeter. It depends on where the majority of the frequencies is being played at. For music, it's usually playing a very broad range. If components are rated for 200wrms, i wouldnt go no higher than 250 non-clipped or maybe right at 200, depending on how it's setup.
x-overs, i believe, allow you to cut the tweeter down, -3, -6, that's how it can handle the power with the rest of the set, but again, it depends on how it's setup...
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it will be close but should be just 1 sheet even with a double baffle for subs.
Depends on the way you cut the pieces you need out too.
MDF comes in 49" x 97" sheets.
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well, due to problems finding reducers from 4/0 to 1/0, i decided to go with Stinger's new XperT series wire and reducers.
3/0 wire with 1/0 reducers. www.darvex.com sells them, wire has over 6,200 strands in it and is flat wire as well so easy to run under things without bulging up.
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hehe, when i gave the scenario of those amps still drawing power when car is off, the amp IS OFF when doing so!. That was the whole point of the "crazy" factor of the story.
They draw so little, mA's amount that i guess with that many amps, it was too much. Now, i don't know if they are suppose to do that or not but just lettin u know thats why i chose not to anymore.
And now i understant what u said. Your yellow wire is basically your power wire for your HU, u just fed a brand new power wire to your HU and it's fine? if that's true, then your factory wire harness or your wire harness adapter has a connection issue. Basically, it's getting enough power now, before, it just had enough power to run the HU, for more features such as run remote line, it have that problem.
Sounds right to me. Still not normal though. I would find out why you had to run a new power line rather than just keeping it that way. What if some more wires in your harness stop working?
You know what... it's been a while since i wired a stereo. Is the ignition wire even in a wire harness? Now that i think about it, i don't think it is since it's the largest wire next to the ground wire and power antennae wire. I'm confusing myself now, i'll shut up.
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because the remote wire is a turn on\off wire, not a "go into protect" wire.
I was gonna say run the remote line from your amp to your ignition wire but the disadvantage can sometimes occur- It's possible sometimes, i dont know how, but i've heard it happening before, large quantities of amps' remote wires tied into a constant 12v wire can drain a battery in several days of no use. I don't know how but it has happened. So, because i do not know how it happened, having an amp on the ignition wire at all worries me anymore so i stopped doin it a few years ago.
Also, to be picky, if you decided not to have your stereo on at all, running amp through constant power wire will make the amp draw idle current even though it's not in use. It shouldnt be much but still is there. If i had to guess... maybe 2 amps, just nit picking to give u some info.
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really, that's retarded, i hope they never put that "option" in any head units nowadays.
If i had an amp just shut off completely, i turn hu off then on again and it's fine from then on, but it only shut off from a quick high volume turn on, or whatever you did, sounds like a remote wire issue.
If it ever does it again while you are just jamming, check remote wire first and then ground. If ground is good, buy a relay and put it in line with your remote wire. I got a 20A relay on my remote line, just imagine all the add-ons i can do!! You can get diagrams i believe from 12volt.com for properly wiring the relay to add any addition to your stereo system through the relay so it doesn't stress the HU.
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Jimj - i thought it was every 3 db for human ear?
I know theoretically, doubling power should give you 3db hence, 3db is a doubling of power but i thought it also pertained to the ear as well..?
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just by me typing words, let me see if i can make you understand why he says his 2 15s are probably louder than your 4 15s.
Let me begin -
Your amps-
each one is probably averaging around 600-1100w before clipping induces(that's why you keep damaging your subs because your box isn't large enough, in my opinion, to bottom out those subs and damage coils).
So, both amps - 1200-2200w(2200w being an assumed peak before clipping induces).
You probably expect more from your amps so the volume gets cranked which induces clipping. If you used an o-scope, you would know what the maximum safe volume is before you start causing damage to your subs.
Now, let me go and talk about the subs-
You have 4 15s in 4 separate chambers. You would have been better off making all 1 common chamber or the least making 2 common chambers for all 4 subs but this is not the problem.
Problem - expecting wild and crazy bass from a sealed design when i bet the sound you are expecting comes from a ported design.
You can make a ported box all different kinds of way by where you want it to peak at but let me give you a basic scenario of what happens-
You "might" very well possibly be louder than bigjon frequencies starting at 50 or maybe 55 on up.
Big Jon probably has his box tuned low, 30-35hz i'm just assuming, and trust me, if he does, hehe, he is VERY VERY loud, way louder than your setup in the range of ~ 30-45hz(guesstimate).
But why do i say that?
Reason -
In a sealed box, only the front wave of the sub is in effect or is the main bass producer i could say.
In a ported box, not only is the front wave in use, but the rear wave is also by slamming inside the box and able to exit via a vent acting as another sub in itself as to speak.
Simply put, ported boxes are a LOT more efficient than sealed and that's a fact. Efficiency meaning a ported box has been claimed of being up to 9db more efficient than sealed as i have read before in the past somewhere.
Typical expectations of efficiency is around 4-6db, and for every 3 db is a doubling of power according to the human ear!
Now, big jon without a doubt just based on experience is more than likely louder than you by a good stretch on the low end bass. Your low end sound in your car is not quiet, that's not what i am saying, i'm just saying big jon's is a LOT louder without a doubt.
Just in the higher frequencies, ported boxes tend to slowly roll back down losing spl whereas sealed doesn't so in higher frequencies, you may be louder but just not in the low end by a good deal.
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i havent had an accident in my car since i purchased it 19 months ago but i have also had close calls because of retarded people. i can go on and on about how people fail to obey the law. If i were a cop, i swear to you all i could easily give out 4-7 tickets every morning just on the way to work which is only a 14 minute drive!
I had my car broken into 2 week of December last year and it is STILL being fixed. It's not that it was badly damaged but a replaced window, some scratches on trim panel, removal of glass, paint, custom makeover of graphics, simonyz wax, tint, $2,200
I'm still having things done to it.
See, the first time i had ever had to make a claim was when some idiot opened their door and dented my car, again, dumb people.
He confessed to doing it, the dent was 3" in diameter, cost to fix - $898! Why? the cost to fix the dent, paint, special wax-simonyz and a new graphic design.
My car is a pain to have to work on body-wise and the insurance knows it, but they think it's funny just like i do.
haha, i had to edit the post because i typed "paint" so much the last line said - my car is a paint to work on, pretty funny. But what's funnier.... editing my post to say i edited my post and tell yo u what i edited even though the point of editing is not to see what i edited..... priceless.
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u say it's burnt, that's clipped. It's thermal handling is higher than what that amp can put out so you clipped the sub(s) which means the gains were not set right.
Now is a good time to go get an o-scope.
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i should end this topic i suppose, hehe.
After talking with my dealership, this setup will not be possible unless i spend $2,000+ on new suspension system!
Because of the added weight and just 1 passenger, the car will be over it's max load capacity.
Since i never anticipated on buying coil overs and new tires, i decided to force myself into finding a way to run 2 12" BLs ported off of a 3,000w amp and i found a way(like a patent miracle, hehe) so that will be the way i am going to go.
From what i see, i will tune it right around 35hz. I might still throw some acousta0stuf in this ported box because any extra room will be nice but the net volume i will have for the 12s is 1.35cuft per sub but for a common chamber. I know of a way of increasing that volume some more but i don't need to be super picky on detail right now.
Right now, Second Skin is awaiting a $500+ order in the near future.
By the time their stuff is installed,i should be able to crash into a wall and the only thing i should hear is my GPS rerouting my destination,
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maybe i should have said subwoofers instead of drivers.
Because all the subs i ever want are only from companies who do business mostly online.
Audioque, DD audio, Fi, etc....
Now components, they are elsewhere.
I don't like used mechanical devices or b rated mechanical devices. Go straight thru the company.
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if u are ever interested in Security Film for your vehicle, go here-
www.aceorangecounty.com
They are the official installers in California who install security film on vehicles. They use Ace Security Laminate Film just like you may have seen on Armorcoat's website.
I did not see any specs on Armorcoat's site.... kinda shady, but Ace's film is VERY strong.
They have been on Fox, Discovery Channel, etc...
They have a grade of film that they say is almost too hard to install on a vehicle, wanna give it a try?
I have their 300 series on mine. It's so strong that the car alarm's impact sensor does not detect against window vibrations when hitting the window. I need to take it back to the dealer and have them increase the sensitivity on it, i just had the film installed a week ago.
300 series is what you need on a vehicle, 400 series is so thick, you might break your window trying to apply it. Why? Because so much pressure needs to be applied to get all the moisture out from behind the film.
Contact this company if interested, they will ship you the material to you. It comes in 5ft rolls for $8\ft for the 300 series. Shipping ~$30-40 for the average vehicle.
If trying to apply security film on curved glass, plan on spending approx 5-9 hrs properly installing the film. It is best to have someone who has installed security film before to do it for you.
Allow 2 weeks to cure before tinting vehicle. If tint already exist, tint MUST be stripped before applying security film. Why? Security film bonds to the glass and becomes one with it. It's integrity will decrease if the film is not physically holding the glass together.
Allow 60 days before security film is fully cure and you feel safe.
Allow 2 weeks before rolling down your window as well if not tinting, if tinting over, after waiting 2 weeks, wait 2-5 days before rolling down windows depending on temperature outside. The colder, the longer you wait.
Ace Security film spec-
300 series - rated for 350lb\sq in!
400 series - rated for 450lb\sq in!
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what is the difference between welding wire and car audio power wire?
There has to be something negative about welding cable or else everyone would use it because-
www.weldingsupply.com sells 4/0 wire for $3.xx\ft ultraflex cable. So i know it doesn't have to do with flexibility issues.
I read somewhere else that welding cable carries more current than same size power wire for car audio. So, i'm confused...
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the only Hifonics line that is a real rated line is the XXV and i believe the old XX if i am not mistaken.
That amp and anything cheaper is like a budget amp, like Lanzar's Vibe series.
Anyway, i've owned an 88 crown vic before, big o car, humungo trunk.
I don't know where 2 18s came from but there is no way for 2 18s to be ported in 13 cu ft... hehe, impossible for optimal results.
Just those 2 amps you have, i'm guessing you're lookin at 1,800-2,300w max average combined with those amps.
The port displacement for 2 18s with that real power is probably over 2cuft easy, let alone you need , i think 6cuft per sub minimal.
Here is what i think as i have owned biggie trunks before-
i ran 2 15s and had the town praisin me.
what you could do-
2 15" BLs ported
4 12" SSD\Q\BLs (you need new amps for this) ported
By the way, seein that you have 4 15s in your car, can you tell us exactly how you got them in the trunk? Specs such as external dimensions - height, width, depth of box.
I'm curious to see if your current setup is even optimal.
This would give me and anyone else reading this an idea on what it is sounding like for you so we can get an idea of what you may be impressed with.
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good idea.
I finally found Stinger's Reducer.
stinger makes the reducer to go from 3/0 Wire back down to 0 gauge. So, this is going to be interesting.
I'm planning on running a 3,000w amp in the rear but i can't install a batt back there because of weight. Seriously!
So, running a 3/0 wire back to the amp and using a 300A alt should do the trick. The cool thing about the reducer... is using it for grounds,
I guess i'll start planning now-
I'm gonna attempt in the next few months 2 12" BL's ported off of 3,000w. I'm lookin at either the 3000w Sundown amp or Lanzar's 4000w Opti amp. Both do about the same power at my given voltage, just Lanzar's cheaper.
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3000w... strap 2 opti2000ds together - rated at 4000w @1ohm 14.4v (each amp can take 0.5ohm loads, strapped @1ohm for max output).
voltage dropping to 12.x volts per amp, if i am not mistaken outputs somewhere around where 1 ohm load outputs at which is 1600+ watts. So... from 14.4 to 12.x, you may lose almost 400w of potential output but again, even at 12v, 3,200w still sounds nice.
CA&E i believe did the review a long time ago but a user commented on the wattage drop due to voltage. Can be had from $646 on up.(for 2 of them total)
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for 2 ohm-
1 woofer - 1 or 4ohm
2 woofers - 0.5, 2 or 8 ohms
1 dvc2 ohm woofer - 1000-1200w amp @ 1ohm
2 dvc2 ohm woofers - 1500-2000w amp @ 2ohms($$$) or 1 2000w @0.5ohm(opti2000D, lot cheaper priced)
1 dvc1 ohm woofer - 1000-1200w amp @ 2ohm
2 dvc1 ohm woofers - 1500-2000w amp @ 1ohm or @4ohm(High Current amp bridged)
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when it comes to drivers, i purchase directly from manufacturer...amps is a different story.
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u mean to tell me i typed all that for nothing? AH!
I'm suing for 60 seconds of time back
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you also gotta tell us your Social Security number to determine a proper answer....
Actually, no, don't do that, that would give the wrong answer, AH!
everything being equal -
pros and cons of 3 10s SPL wise-
just a hair more surface area than 2 12s
more heat dissipation capable
however, with your amp-
3 10s might not receive it's power it may want compared to 2 12s and with the 10s only a hair bigger in surface area, 2 12s with that amp should do very well.
However again, the differences will not be detectable by the ear alone unless the 10s were positioned in different areas filling the cabin area better than 2 12s.
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well it depends, are you worried about it breaking or are you worried about it decreasing SPL?
breaking - wait til it cracks then get plexiglass, contact HO-alt for this.
in the meantime, contact your dealer or manufacturer and see if there is any extra adhesive you can put around your glass to support it more.
SPL - plexiglass, the thicker the better. One thing i recently did to my windows, don't know if it helped but you better find a damn good installer to install this-
Security film, almost completely bulletproof, resists bombs and hard impacts from bats, crow bars, nail punchers, etc...
IT is a very thick, flexible film applied to glass which when cured, prevents glass from shattering and prevents resonation from occurring if banging on the window.
Film typically makes the glass stronger than your windshield, imagine that! Be careful though, some security film out there is cheap stuff.
Be ready to spend approx $8-10 per sq ft.
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When you're preparing to spend just over $2k just to prep your vehicle(no audio products in that price) for a stereo system upgrade because anything under 2,500w of power is just a typical install anymore...
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1500d [something weird happened]
in Sundown Audio
Posted
well that's good info to know, never heard of that before, gotta remember this one.
And, i fuse at both ends of the power line. 12" from battery and about the same for the amp. I use a Smart fuse block near all my amps, regardless of class, so if it drops below 12v, it will shut the pwoer off going to them. I know most amps can go below 12v but i feel if it shuts off because it went under 12v, then i need a better electrical setup. So far, it has only shut off in setups i've had when the car is off and jammin for a few minutes.
Cadence and i think Rockford Fosgate makes em. I have the Cadence model FH-8