mikecdm

Thanks, are the settings input correctly for the type of box. Is the common port walls amount correct? Once I get some time I'll start building. Also need see if the calculator gets update so that it's correct.

I just got my Fi Q 12" back from getting reconed and now I want to build a ported box. I've never built a ported box and wanted to see if these numbers were right. I downloaded the torres box calculator thing and punched in some numbers that seem to work, but I'm not positive if it's right or not. I have a maximum of 30" W, 15.5" H. Depth has no limit but I'd like to keep it a minimum. I just want a good daily box and was basing this off Fi's recommended 32hz.

Well, I came up with this box. If the specs are correct in the calculator, then this should work. Would just like a second opinion to verify that this is right and I don't was time and material. I didn't put in total box height since there is no top, but would be 15"

I have an Older 12" Q thats blown. I''ve finally decided to get it reconed but I want to build a ported box for it too. I see the the diagrams and cut sheets for the new Q, but i'm not sure if that will work for older model Q. It's also unfortunate that the cut sheets for that one are a tad too large for my trunk. I have a maximum of 30W 15H 18D, but depth can vary a bit. i was hoping on building the box during the time it takes to get my Q reconed. That should give me enough time to learn how to design a ported box. I have no idea on how to calculate port length and all that jazz. Thanks.

I've never tried tried doing the recone and never have on any other speaker.

It's a 12" Fi Q. I saw a few vids on youtube and tried looking through the forum, but couldn't find anything. I know i've seen something before, but couldn't find it now. I still need to order a recone kit. I just haven't been motivated to do anything about it. I have a bunch of dead stuff that i never bother to fix

I'll have to try it on my own then. Sub has been sitting in box for ages, just been too lazy.

Any of you DFW guys know how to recone a sub or willing to help me out? I live right near some of you arlington guys.

Thanks for the info. I think i'm just going to do a sealed box for now. It's a lot easier to make than a ported box and I'm lazy . It's a shame that this thing has been sitting in my garage for around 2 yrs, with stuff thrown on it and who knows what else.

I've had this sub for a few years just sitting in the garage. It has a hole in the rubber surround and one set of terminals broke off. I've attempted to fix both things, but I'm not sure about the enclosure size. It seems that the sub is so old that I can't find any info on it. I wanted to try and make a ported box, but now I'm kind of thinking on just making something around .75ft^3

I kind of assumed that when it only mentioned small sealed box. Prior to finding that page, I was planning on ported. I wanted to see what it could do, but hopefully I'll find out soon. Just need to make a box suited for this sub. It's been sitting for so long and I've never used it. I found it at a friends house when he was moving out and nobody claimed it. Since my Q is dead and I've had no bass for so long, I decided to try and fix this one.

The tinsel leads look fine and there seems to be no visible physical damage.

Well just in the past few days I have noticed that my sub was not working. Me being the lazy person that I am put it off for a while assuming that just a connection was loose. Yesterday I finally got around to taking a look and all the connections outside of the box looked fine. The amp (sae-1000D) looked to be working fine, but no movement or sound from the sub. With the music playing I pushed the cone a little and then it made a little effort but once I moved my hand away it did nothing. This was initially, but today the sub does nothing at all, even when I push on it. Still not sure if the amp could be damaged, I connected another sub that I had laying around and that one works. This leads me to the conclusion that my Q is damaged. I really don't know how it could have been damaged since I rarely listen at high volumes and seldom do I listen to any bass heavy music. I pretty much drive to work and back and that's only a 10 minute drive. I'm not sure what would be the best course of action.

After checking the coils they both read the same. Unfortunately, neither of them does anything or give me any sort of reading. When doing the same to the other sub, the coils read around 3.5ohms. I"m not sure how long the warranty is, but I think that I've had the sub over a year. The enclusre is smaller than I'd like but still within the recommendations. It's a little over 0.9 cubic feet after displacement. As for the settings, I'm using the factory headunit, so that kind of limits what I can do. The amp has the bass boost pretty low, almost completely off. I'm not saying that I've never had it at high volumes, just recently I haven't. It's probably been several months since I listen to it at high volumes. It'd be hard to convince anyone that I've never pushed the sub.

1.) Must all ready own a amplifier with output between 250w-400w @ 2 ohm mono. Must list what amplifier it is.(Sundown SAE-1000D) 2.) Must have Stereo installation experience. List your experience. (A few of my personal cars and helped out on some friends cars) 3.) Must be an ACTIVE SSA MEMBER with >=75 posts. (Close but enough) 4.) Must do a pictorial or build log of system with in two weeks of receiving subs...(Can do) 5.) Must do a medium length review with a decent array of music, listing sample tracks. (Can do) 6.) Will post review + build log(pictures) on multiple sites (Can do)

Well my friend was cleaning out his garage and was throwing a bunch of stuff out. He had this Eclipse sub in some hideous box and didn't want it anymore. So I just took the sub and left the box there. He had it connected in his car for about a week and it worked, but it had a tear in the rubber surround. I think while taking it out of the box I also broke one of the terminals. Is there anything I can do to save the sub? Will I have to get a recone? I'm not exactly sure when you need to recone a sub, I searched and found a ton of threads with people needing subs reconed but I don't when it's really needed. Here are some pics I snapped of the sub.

Well thanks for the suggestions, I'll put some silicon on the hole and try to figure out how to solder the tinsel leads. Any chance you know the model of the sub or any specs on it. I looked through the eclipse site and tried to find it but they only had 06' models and this sub never didn't look like any of them. It looks like almost all the eclipse subs are Dual 4ohm but I'm not sure if this one is. The sub doenst say anything on it but eclipse. What I want to do with the sub is make kind of a home theater sub or something to add a little bass to my music in my bedroom. I wanted to build a small box and try to find an inexpensive amp to use with it.

Well the rubber surround does have a hole in it and it looks like someone already tried to fix it. There was some black silicon or similar on the inside of the rubber surround that came loose. The terminal are fine and the holes on the basket are still in tact. Upon a closer inspection it looks like the had been broken before and that someone had re-soldered the tinsel leads. It looks like I will have to attempt this myself but I don't know if they will be long enough. As for the surround I really don't know what to do. The hole isn't huge but I can probably shove my pinkie through there. Thats kind of the reason that I thought that I might need a recone. I don't think that the rubber surround is fixable.

I thought it was some sort of TC motor but I have no clue really. Thats the thing, I have never done a recone and I really don't know how or what is needed to be done. Honestly I have no clue, all I know is what you see in the pics.

I think that with your price range a Pioneer would offer more features than any of the other brands mentioned. At around $300 I"m concerned with connections and features. The amount of or lack there of digital inputs, hdmi, component, are what will decide which I choose. I think that an entry level pioneer has more of these features than a denon, yamaha, onkyo. But there is usually a trade off for all these extra features and that is going to be sound quality. Then again, at $300 I don't expect much. I just want it to work and do everything that it's supposed to and easily. I want things like on-screen display. I bought a denon avr-587 on clearance for about $120 and was very disappointed. Retail was around $300 I believe, but I was expecting it to be a small step down from my denon 3803. I figured it'd have less power and less connections. When I fired it up I almost felt like returning it, but I preferred the ease of use and the ability to use a remote over the better sounding antique thing that I was using prior. Basically after this experience I don't expect much out of any receiver in that price range. Me personally in your situation I would go with refurb marantz or onkyo from accessories4less, like was mentioned above, or I would just buy the pioneer.

Well I just recently bought a Q and since I was eager to listen to it, I put it inside the only box I had. The current box is a sealed box with about .9 ft^3 after displacement. Since its on the smaller side I threw some polyfill in the box as well. Now I want to build a ported box and I honestly have no clue as to where begin. I read through several pages, and found some plans but they don't suit my needs. I also searched online for calculators and only came across the RE calculator. I don't know how accurate it is but it kind of gave me an idea how port length affects tuning frequency. I'm a little tight on space and have a maximum of 30"w x 16"h x 16"d. Matter of fact, I'm not even sure if i can get the box into the trunk with those dimensions. I know it will fit in the trunk, but getting it in might be a problem. The smaller the better, but I don't want to sacrifice quality. Here is what I came up with by just punching in numbers into the calculator. If this calculator is correct, I still think the box is a little on the big side and wouldn't mind making it a little smaller if it doesn't compromise the sound. Advice and or suggestions are welcome.

guess nobody has any advice or ideas. I'd try this but I'm not even sure that this calculator is accurate.

Thanks for the suggestion but my car only has 1 battery. The battery location is in the trunk. I had about 1ft, maybe a little more, of power cable from the battery to the fuse holder. From there it went to the amp. I will admit that the ground is probably around 4 ft.

Well a few days ago I got a FI Q powered by a Sundown SAE-1000D. So far I'm loving it and everything seems to be working right. I previously had a different amp with a pair of sundown SD-1's and I used all of the same connections. The only thing I really changed was the ground. As ghetto as it may seem, I had a 4awg power cable with 8awg ground. Since I just bought a new to me amp, I didn't want to run it this way anymore and replaced the ground with 4awg. So today I was heading out to the store and I happened to glance into the trunk. I have a Bmw 325i sedan with folding seats and I had a clear view of where the fuse holder is. I kind of noticed something but wasn't sure. On a second glance I realized that what I saw was a spark. Whenever the bass hits, the fuse holder would spark. After confirming that this is what was happening I turned off the radio. I'm wondering if there is anything that might cause this to happen other than a bad connection or damaged fuse holder? Seems like it should be one of the two but maybe there is something that I don't know that's causing this. What if the fuse is to rated to high and it doesn't blow, but there is some sort of problem? Might sound dumb, but I'm scared it might be something else that I don't know about. As it is, I think I'm going to order a new fuse holder. Before I sold my old subs I was having a problem where the amp would just cut off and it was had something to do with the fuse holder or the connection. A quick tap on it would make things start working again. I was also wondering what would be the recommend fuse size? Right now I only have one amp but I plan on adding a 4ch amp in the future. It's rated at 600w but I'd say maybe puts out 200w if I'm lucky. Thanks

This actually happened after I replaced the 8awg ground with the 4awg ground. When I had 8awg ground and 4awg power I never had a problem. The read out hasn't worked in years and I really don't care about having it. I have been wanting to run 1/0awg in preparation for the time when I have two amps. It still might be much, but I kind of wanted to do it right once and not have to worry about it any more. Since this happened I really don't trust the fuse holder I have and was already planning on replacing it. I also want to replace the wiring with 1/0awg while I'm at it, only problem is that the amp only supports 4awg. I'll just have to order a new one, hopefully one that can support both 4awg and 1/0awg. I still don't know how it happened though. Could there possibly be a problem with the amp, or it most certainly had to do with the wiring and fuse holder?