imhungnurnot

the gain knob is this way because you're gain on your amp is set too high.. You are supposed to set your gain on the amp with the remote gain knob all the way turned up.. so basically, the remote gain knob is meant to lower the volume.. not "boost" it

what do you have for your substage? i don't see any pics of thatt

Got it! I believe the rule is a 30% to 50% decrease in port area. As you should know, port length is a function of net volume, port area, and tuning frequency. Assuming that net volume and desired tuning frequency are constant, a decrease in port area results in a decrease in port length. This is where the smaller box sizes come in because the non flared port has more port area which translates to more length so it displaces more. The flared port on the other hand has less port area which translates to less length so it displaces less! So smaller overall box with the flared port. (Keep in mind i didn't say aero port because it is only due to the flare.. nothing special in the plastic although the smooth plastic should make the air flow more easily.. The difference in air flow over plastic and mdf should be minuscule; therefore, it doesn't matter. The flare is the key!) Make sense?

It hurts to read that..... Use sentences. They help!

I do though.. LOL i guess i never really shopped for 2 channels!!!

No ha obviously if i was talkin bout the 9500 i would of said it =p... but in all seriousness the guy im talkin to owns a 2 door tahoe with (4) dd 9515s with a wall and hits 159.6...so its not like the guy dont know his stuff but he swears up and down that DD has the better sound and will outperform the BTL. He told me the BTL is a good woofer but he told me he would sell me 2 brand new 3500 for the same price as the BTLs because he knows ill be satisfied with the 3500s. The RMS is 1200 on it and the Peak is 4000. I have seen people at my local audio competition put 3k on one and drive it as a daily no problem so the woofers can handle power. My T2000s put out roughly 2852 watts at 1 0hm (according to birth certifiacte, other one is 2822). Also sorry to say you dint answer my question =s I own a DD 9512 so I have no opposition to DD or Fi.. but I think he's just trying to get business..

LOL it's only been up 24 min... people are still at work... you are impatient! lol but i think the BTL will be louder.. The sensitivity of the BTL 15 is 1.1 Db greater than the sensitivity of the DD 3515

sundown makes the 125.2.. 125 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms.. I don't really know of any 2 channels with HPFs that are bigger than that. Maybe get a 4 channel and bridge it....

Hey Cheese, he said BTL

its a 95 honda accord with a stock 80amp alt, so the HC1400 and the stock battery wont be a strain on the stock alt, Batteries generate power, alternators recharge.. I think you'll be fine because music is dynamic (power won't be getting drained from your batteries the entire time).. Your alternator will get a chance to recharge the batteries whenever the demand on the batteries from your amplifier decreases. I think you should do big three and the HC1400. After this is done, if you are still getting more than 0.5 drop in voltage, then get an alternator. Side note: If you have a 4 banger, I wouldn't go over 180 amps on an alternator. Bigger alts make small HP motors to "jerk" or loose HP very rapidly.

You sure they weren't comparing the DD 9500 to the BTL?

Keep the original battery in the front, and put a HC1400 in the back by the amplifier. You shouldn't need an alternator. The Big 3 and the extra battery in the back will be a good start. Check your voltage and then go from there!

NOT ENOUGH INFORMATION... What amps are you planning to run? What is the amperage of your stock alternator? EDIT: so you answered those questions in your edit... Hmmm

Yea, as long as it is receiving clean/sufficient power.

yea, its a common misconception that a smaller woofer can't "pick up" the lows like a larger woofer. How a woofer responds is dependent on the box/install; not the woofer size. Also, different vehicles changes everything. I don't understand it but cabin gain is responsible for this. This is why the two type R's you heard sound different. Plus, your conclusions aren't valid due to different head units, electrical, and amplifiers. TOO many variables! Besides, you'd need a meter to tell for sure (unless there was a HUGE difference).

Really though.. lol theres two many of these "BL v Q" threads.. basically, if you're asking, you want a BL!

Since you're looking for loud, you'll want a ported box. IMO, go with BLs. Front stage refers to the mids/highs you have in your vehicle. People looking for SQ don't use rear speakers. They use a Front Stage which is normally a 2-way actively crossed component set which is normally powered by a 4 channel amplifier. Some actually use a 3-way set up i.e. midbass driver, midrange driver, and a tweeter. Also, your subwoofer setup is referred to to the Sub Stage. Keep in mind this is a general explanation.

HAHAHA couldn't have said it better myself!

Its just a ball joint with a threaded end.. And if you changed the outers, why are you doubting yourself on the inners? They should be the same. But the clunking could be coming from the idler arm or pittman arm. But you'll need an alignment after you change any of those parts. EDIT: THEY SHOULD BE SIMILAR.. lol not necessarily the same!

Its giving you the option.. Fi is saying "IF YOU WANT SEALED... use these specs...; IF YOU WANT PORTED... use these specs..." The Q will perform well in either ported or sealed. The decision needs to be based off of what you want. You want loud? Want SQ? Whats your front stage? (if you haven't thought about front stage you probably want LOUD) lol

You can easily get a used SAZ 1500 for 300. I've helped my friends get a total of 4 SAZ 1500s within the 6 months all under $300. Blown sundowns are awesome too.. Db-R does good work. One of the 1500s was blown; I found it for 125 shipped. So I bought it and sent it to db-r. When it was all said and done, 260 dollars for an amp with brand new internals.

I notice you didn't include brace displacement.. I hope you are bracing this enclosure. It'll need it!

Every option is explained on this forum. Go to the Fi Car Audio, then click Fi Technical.. The a thread explaining the options for each woofer is pinned to the top of the Fi Techincal.

I have four of the old Fi X 12's. Is there any advantage of using the single slug motor in the newer version? IIRC the sensitivity is just about the same as the older version. Just wondering!

first thing you need to realize is that RCA's are only used to transfer the "preamp" signal from the head unit to the external amplifiers. Speaker wire goes from amps, to woofers. 10 gauge is fine for sub, 14-16 is good for your components.. each crossover have 6 places to connect wires.. a total of 3 + and - sets.. one of the sets is the input to the crossover (which comes from an amplifier) the other two sets are outputs. one set is for the woofers, the other set is for the tweets the 14-16 gauge wire is used for this