imhungnurnot

Read the instructions again. It says "plug in T/S specs from .... to ....". This is where the fs, qes, and vas from. These are T/S specs. Input your target vent air speed into the "vent mach" section. It is incorrectly denoted as vent mach when it is really speed that you are inputting. As it notes, 10m/s is low and 45m/s is high. This is the speed at which the air in the port will be excited. Lower the target vent air speed, the larger port area it will recommend. You want to get the lowest air speed possible in the port so that the enclosure functions as a ported enclosure rather than a leaky sealed box. In my experience, it can be difficult to physically design an enclosure with a low vent speed and a low tuning frequency due to the excessively long ports that this requires. (This is more problematic in small enclosures.) So, you have to compromise port area or tuning. Easiest is port area since this really only becomes and issue as the sub(s) begin to travel a lot.As the sub(s) travels longer distances in the same time (ie you turn up the gain/volume while playing the same frequency), the air speed in the port increases. As far as sacrificing tuning, as long as you get it to within +/- 2-3 Hz of what you originally planned you'll probably be happy. If you tune to 35, theoretically your setup should peak in output at that frequency. Well thats assuming an ideal environment and cars are very non-ideal environments. In the end, the modeling that those formulas utilize only goes so far so don't get too hung up on the design aspect when it comes to those calculators. They are great to use as a starting point. But where i've noticed the biggest difference is overall layout of the enclosure (ie sub/port firing direction, port loading, spacial relationship between sub and port, air flow inside of enclosure, etc.). Thats where the real experienced members can help. So this turned out to be a lot longer post than I expected, but all of this is what i've learned from my experience. Goodluck with the build.

Just stumbled upon this but I really enjoy analyzing, to the best of my ability, the FEA results and testing results you post during your the design process if your subwoofers. I am about to graduate from LSU as a mechanical engineer. I spent many hours last semester designing a structure for our senior project using Solidwork's FEA software so I can appreciate your work. What software did you use to get the above testing results?

Here's a video of my old setup to give you an idea of a single 15" setup. Its a DD 9515g powered by a Sundown SAZ 2500. http://youtu.be/5hLyVvVaxEI

"...and hardware not included with amplifier" ^^What do you mean by this? I understand these amps have plugs that you use to terminate the speaker wires. I dont know why you'd sell it without those, but I want to verify you are selling them with the amp.

Just did a little testing in a smaller room. WOW so much louder! I will do more testing when everyone is awake tomorrow. lol

Alright, thats what I did previously. But I felt like I didn't know enough about the output plots to really know what was going on. I also figured that the models would be very far off from the actual response, but I suppose using such a program gives a good guess...

I checked with a battery and the subs are in phase. I did not model the design since everytime I have done so WinISD tells me that I need get a bigger room... lol I'll tell me I need a 27 cuft box for a single 12...... I understand it is optimizing for a flat response, but thats just ridiculous. However, I am using a computer, and we all know "GARBAGE IN, GARBAGE OUT." There is a chance that I am doing something totally wrong. Have you ever experienced this problem when modeling enclosures? Also, I did drive these subs with about 1500 watts for a while. Maybe they're cooked... I noticed that the pair measures 5.5Ohm when I wired it to be 4Ohm. So I feel that I may have done some damage to the coils. However, I did not notice a problem with this when running them in my car. Maybe I'm only noticing this now with the reduced power available? I would like to drop my v2s in the box to see, but I would need to cut the mounting holes larger...

That would be a easy/simple solution. However, I actually double checked the wiring, but I can check again.

Actually, I was testing the woofer in the living room (which is connected to the kitchen, and dining area). So I was testing in a very large space. I am planning to use it in a much smaller room. I will try it out in a smaller room and let you guys know how it turns out.

so what classifies the product as B-stock? why did it not meet your quality control specifications?

I'll give that a try..

Could you elaborate? The subs are moving at least 1.75'' full throw.. I've heard a single bose 5'' sub for a computer sound system get louder than what I have.. the 5" sub may have been moving 0.5'' full throw... lol

Hey guys, I'm pretty experienced with car audio so I decided I'd give home audio a try. I am VERY disappointed with the output of the subwoofer/enclosure. I think its due to poor driver selection and poor box design. However, I would like to salvage my build. I just want to know if I am wasting my time or if I should start allover again. I would really like to modify my current box if possible. Goals: The main use is for music, possibly some video gaming, and possibly some movies. Background: To begin, I had a pair of SA-8's in my car then when the v2's came out I decided that I would get a pair of v2's for my car and put the old pair in my house. This was mainly an excuse to cough up the money for the new v2's lol. So I bought a BASH 500W plate amplifier to power the pair. I then designed a box that I thought was a good design. I started off with the box design from my car. 1.3cuft with one 4" aero port tuned to 35Hz. I decided that I would need to increase the box volume since I would have less power to drive the woofers. I decided to go with 1.8cuft. I also dropped the tuning frequency to 26Hz. Pictures: Here is a picture of the setup in my car, and below is a couple of pictures of the enclosure I built for my house. Problems: First off, I noticed the speakers moving a lot and hardly any air moving the the port. Things shake in the house but the audible output is very poor. I used a 4'' aero port down-fired and I left about 3.5 inches between the exit of the port and the floor so that I would be able to breathe freely. Initial thought was that the box was too large so I stuffed it with 7-8 pairs of jeans (tightly packed in). There was a a slight increase of audible output but nothing significant. Solutions: Next step is to take my box out of my car and see how it performs in the house since thats easy to check. Do you guys have any suggestions? Is my design horrible? Is this not even worth trying to fix? Let me know what you think. Thanks, -Kelly

mine came in yesterday.. I'll be cutting the holes in my box for my previous SA 8s in the morning to fit the v2's... lol I tried to go drop them in but no luck. The magnet barely fit through the hole for the older SA8's.. (7 1/4'' dia hole... sick magnet for an 8!) My old SA 8's are about to get mounted in my newest enclosure... 1.8 cuft, 4'' aero tuned to 26 Hz, 500 watt plate amp..... home theater setup?? lol I have no idea what home theater enthusiasts would say about the setup, but hopefully i'll be pleased! I'll post some pictures once I stain and seal the box!!

more business for DB-R!!!!!