imhungnurnot

Sounds like you should see if your rca's are plugged in! Less likely, the speaker wire came loose somewhere. However, anything can and will happen.

So your saying this Fi Q12 couldn't reach 140 db? No, I'm saying you picked the wrong woofer to chase numbers with. I never said anything about not being able to do it. Good luck, though. My buddy has 2 15 Qs on 2200rms and was doing 143s. I'd be very impressed to see a single 12 do 140s. My buddy had a single 12 Q running a 139 windows up on the windshield with a TL. This was in an extended cab Toyota Tacoma. I'm sure he broke 140 with the windows down. I think he had about 1200 RMS on the sub, and the box was something like 2.6 cuft tuned to 33. The funny thing is that he now has a BTL 15. So if you want loud, just get a BL or BTL now. Also, my DD 9512g did a 140.4 in the kick with about 1100 watts after voltage drop. With a better designed box, better electrical, and my pre-ordered SAZ 2500. I'm shooting for 144s!

Just read the noob proof tutorial pinned to this section of the forum.. It was pinned because it was useful.. so READ!

Look.. Watch this video!!!!! It shows you how to figure out how many amp hours of batteries you need along with how much amperage you need from your alternator..

They make adapters for this purpose. Or you can run the 1/0 to a distro block that is at the most 1.5 feet away from your amps, and down size the wire to 4 awg. Length is a huge factor.

So i'm trying to "model", if that's the correct term, a subwoofer in WinISD and BBP6 as a comparsion between the programs.. They both tune the enclosure super low. WinISD picks a net volume; BBP6 didn't have a specified net volume. Neither suggest port area.. Whats going on? EDIT: BBP6 tuned to 23 Hz (super low), WinISD tuned to a reasonable 34 Hz (but net volume was like .5 cuft)

When I bought my first sub, a Fi X 12. I was showing it to this dude who lives by Kicker's CVR. It was in a sealed box that was originally build for a 10.. So it was only like .5 cuft with like 200 watts powering the sub. Well since it wasn't very impressive, he said that Fi stands for "pucking Idiot." Even after I explained that the X was the lowest RMS sub they produce.. This is the same guy who build a ported box where the port was "designed" to have more port area in one section than the other.. lol. It wasn't a horn. The port started out like 3 inches wide and ended up 6 inches wide inside the box... yea..

Same here, normally.. Now, I'm just fooling around to see what kind of results they yield. You, of all people on SSA, know that I am curious.. lol

Hello, I have a duralast gold under the hood, and I'm curious to know it's amp hour rating so I can figure out what else i need (alt/batteries) to power my amps. (about 3000 watts)

Ok, so I have a 3.3 total cuft box as a center console and i cannot reach over to the other side of the truck to roll down the window/unlock the door. (no power windows/locks sucks) I hear if you add poly fill to an enclosure, the enclosure behaves as if it is larger.. So I was thinking build a smaller box, but add polyfill to make it seem larger. So in the end, I will not have sacrifice output with a smaller box. If this is possible, about how much air space could polyfill potentially account for?

Well you don't really want the port firing out into air.. (if you fire out of the front, will it be firing into the back seat?) Its better if the port fires at something so the sound waves can reflect off of something. Firing up through the rear speaker gill wouldn't be a bad idea.. it'll reflect off of the back window..

Firing out the side would work well.. But then you would need about 4-5 inches of clearance from the side of the box to the side of your car. Im guessing the 33 inches wide measurement doesn't account for this 4-5 inches of clearance. Correct? So you may need to decrease the width to 28-29? (porting out of the side)

So when designing an enclosure, you rather WinISD over BBP as far as enclosure size and tuning is concerned (disregard the polyfil calculation BBP is capable of)? But yes, I already thought about doing that to my current box. Only issue is how to keep the fill from getting in the port? mesh? Also, I've seen mass produced enclosures with mesh covering the outside of the port. Is this to make the port "effectively" longer? How does this not decrease port area? Does it work? If it works well, it seems like a good idea because I could make the box even smaller by using mesh and making the port shorter and compensate with mesh over the opening.

Looks good!!

Does it matter where you place the fill? i.e. along/around the walls? bunched up in one corner?

Actually, I already saw those videos. They are very helpful. I'm calculating how many AH's from my batteries I'll need along with how big of an alternator I need to get. Only problem is that I only have room for one extra battery. I bought a Deka Intimidator 100 AH battery for this purpose, and I just wanted to know how many AH's can i account for with my battery under the hood that has a reserve capacity of 115 min. I read up a little more, and a general rule is to divide the reserve capacity by 2 and this is the approximate AH rating of the battery. So I figure that 50 AH is a conservative AH rating for my 115 min. reserve capacity battery. So now I have 150 AH just in batteries, and I'll probably get a 200 amp alternator. This, along with the big three, will be my electrical system for 3 kW

The only issue is where are you firing the port and sub.. the port may not fit (i think you need at least 4 inches from the end of the port to the wall behind the port), From your earlier post, I assume you are firing the sub up. What about the port?

Port design for SSD 12 Outer Dimensions 10x33x16 Sub Disp. .14 cuft 2.0 cuft after displacements 1 4'' aero port (precision port; can be purchased from Parts Express - 4'' Precision Port or Precision Sound Products) The 4'' areo port will need to have a flared length of 13.625 (flared length= length from end to end) The box will be tuned right around 33 Hz

? Did you mean you never include the starting battery in your calculations?

you define noob

do you think i would be fine with the 1 6" aero then? thats roughly 50% port area then recommended Well that's roughly 50% of the minimum port area recommended per cube. The 3 4'' will definitely work. The 1 6'' will probably be fine.. but IMO, 3 4''

You're crossover sub setting will not blow your sub.. just play with it and if it's making bad noises on the higher freq, then bring the LPF to a lower number, or pick a steeper slope. You could possibly have your LPF set to 63-80 with a steep slope (24db/octave). Just test and tune.. Where you will blow your sub is not having your subsonic filter set correctly. I've always heard set your SSF to a few HZ lower than the tuning of your box.

If you have an amp, see if it is turning off when you turn the radio off.. (like its supposed to if you hook it up right) but whoever put your amps in may have tied your remote wire into the vehicles accessory power wire. If this is the case, your amp is still on and you have some sore of problem with power wire ran too close to the rca's, bad ground, or bad amp. Unplug the rca's while it's making the noise and if it stops, then you know you have a problem with your rca's. If it doesn't, the problem is with the ground/amp.

200 Amp alt? Also, can alternators be re-cased in case i get a new vehicle in the near future?

Sorry, I just knew I would get fast replies. I went into full edit an I couldn't retype the title.