imhungnurnot

Yeah, but a trianglular port with a rectangular opening??? Shouldn't matter.. ports are tuned by area and length. So the cross sectional area of the triangle should be equal to the area of the rectangular opening. Do the numbers. Let us know if this is right..

Sounds like something fun to try!

Make it the same on both sides so the box is symmetrical and divide it. You won't loose much airspace, and the divider will be an awesome brace for the top piece. 3" ports are only 7 inches of port area per port.. I did the numbers.. 1.1 cuft per sub. 2 3" (one on each side) 14 inches long.. but its only like 6.5 sqaure inches of port per cube.. 3 inch aeros will be the way to go unless you can flare the 3" pvc.

There is one more piece of information I need. What is the max depth of the of the left side in the top view. (the part where the ports are firing in your drawing)

Kerfing is AWESOME!!!!!!!

Not much room at all lol.. bass amp under driver seat, highs amp under passenger. Jack/Tire tools all over the damn place. Yea, I have a DD9512 in a console now. pretty sick

Center consoles are nice. It sucks if you don't have power windows/locks. Like myself.. If you don't build the console too tall at the bottom it, then it isn't bad to lean to the other side of the truck. The 4 12 setup wasn't bad. My current box is tall and it sucks. Ahh I really don't want to sacrifice my doors, and they are different. I have a side compartment where your components are mounted. I think i'm going to build kick panels. I'll PM you.

The Gang Signs make this video a fail. Do you have stock interior speakers? Also, why does it seem that sub woofers make people turn into OGs? hahaha I was shootin the video and those dudes showed up so I figured i'd get um in it. lol Not stock speakers. Why do you ask? I was wondering because the vocals were lacking, yes.. its a video of the system and i know it could be misleading. I like your wood skills. 4x6's aren't great, they don't have good midrange. I'm in the process of working on that. Thanks on the complement. That was my first curved box. I'm planning my next build. It'll either have flared ports and/or curves in the box to get more airspace.

Throw a divider in the middle in case you ever blow a sub or something. Use 1 4" port per side 26 inches long. This will give you a net vol. of approx. 1.1 cuft per sub tuned a little higher than 33Hz You'll have about 11.4 square inches of port per cube. This is a little on the small side, but not by much. An aero would be great for this. Only thing wrong with this is I forgot about woofer displacement.. OOPS.. how much volume do you subs displace??? Again, I advise adding a divider in the middle. Use 1 4" port per side 30 inches long. This will give you about 0.88 cuft per sub of net vol. Tuned real close to 34 hz. Now you'll have around 14 square inches of port area per cube which is good. Only thing is i don't think you're goin to be able to fit a 30 inch long port. You may be able to put a 90 or two 45s to bend the port inside of the box.

Good. It is a pretty musical setup. The subs are getting about 1500 wRMS a piece from two SAZ1500d's strapped. It did a 143.9 db on the kick, front windows down. It was only a sweep (100hz-30hz). He might get another db or so with a burp. I could have tuned the box lower, but I didn't want to shy too far away from DD's 39-40 hz tuning recommendation. Also, the subs are firing into the driver and passenger seats. This may make it meter lower. We made drawers under the box so the two sundowns can slide in and out. It's pretty cool. I'll take more pictures.

I built this for a friend of mine. Its about 2.52 cuft per sub with 40 square inches of port per sub tuned to 36 Hz. The objective was to build a box that filled up the back of his truck. But that was too much air space overall, so we pretty much built a box inside of a box.. The pic of the inside looks pretty sick.

Ha, agreed!

Throw a divider in the middle in case you ever blow a sub or something. Use 1 4" port per side 26 inches long. This will give you a net vol. of approx. 1.1 cuft per sub tuned a little higher than 33Hz You'll have about 11.4 square inches of port per cube. This is a little on the small side, but not by much. An aero would be great for this. Only thing wrong with this is I forgot about woofer displacement.. OOPS.. how much volume do you subs displace???

Well If you want 1.2 cuft net, you are going to need 1.36 cuft internal volume using an external port. The way the aero's are in the drawing is more trouble than its worth. I think an external port is the way to go for you.. What is the radius of that curve? We'll use it to get your last .15 cuft of box volume you need.

hey, since I lied... I went build this last night.. jackass

Also, this question has nothing to do with the saz 3000d. It's a general amplifier question.

There isn't an ohm setting on any amplifier. A lot of people new to audio get this confused. There are only a limited number of ways you can wire your woofers that determine the ohms load. Which ever load you prefer/need to get the desired power to your woofers is the load you choose from the few choices. We need to know the number of woofers and their coil type/ohm rating. Think of it this way. You have a bad ass car (your amplifier), but you hook up 4 tons of dead weight behind it (4 ohm load) its going to slow the car down. Or in the case if your amplifier, it won't produce a lot of output power. Well if you lower the load, the car goes faster (amp puts out more power). If you don't have enough load, your car will break loose and you will end up in a ditch. (You're amp will get damaged) Although people run sundowns at 0.5 ohms daily, they have a good/great electrical system (or they should). If you're electrical isn't special, stay at/above 1 ohm.

Don't post crap like that in someones thread. Are you serious? I have two in the console and two behind the seats. I am not a liar, and I bet yours is louder. However, you couldn't be more gay; so its cool. Also, you drive a bitch vehicle. Wanna know something else? All that trunk movement is creating destructive wave interference shit head. You probably don't know what that means either. It results in less "hit hard." I hope you can understand this. Also, I hope you don't have enough air space for the 2 15's so it'll sound like ass when you try to jam them in that tiny trunk.

Ok, well I never said these meters are complicated. They are very simple. Secondly, a feature titled "calibration" is normally used to adjust an instrument in case it somehow isn't reading accurately anymore. For these meters, it is simply to match two different meters as you have stated.

Availability is a huge one. WAY more quality drivers built in the large format. A low Fs comes much cheaper as well. Both HUGE in the world of car audio IMO. So what large format tweets would you recommend? Depends on your goals, budget, processing, mounting locations, and skill. Needs to be loud and sound smooth (no harsh sounds from the tweet), 35 bucks a tweet, mounted in the kicks with mli-65s, processing viz cda-9855, as much skill needed to do some glass work..

I don't think you realize what you are going to have to do near your kick panel area to make a pod. There is a lot of cutting involved and it is a bitch! The only people that fabricate kick panels are people who are going for optimum sound quality. A mid and tweet is usually put in a pod. I highly recommend you take this to a reputable shop to get done as it is not something you want to start as part of your first fiberglass job either. ? I have kick panels from the junk yard, and if the pods dont look so great, I'll just wrap them with carpet so you can't see the imperfections..

The Gang Signs make this video a fail. Do you have stock interior speakers? Also, why does it seem that sub woofers make people turn into OGs? hahaha I was shootin the video and those dudes showed up so I figured i'd get um in it. lol Not stock speakers. Why do you ask?

well I was planning on having a compartment for the sub then have another with the port seperated by a thin compartment all are connected of course. Or use aero ports so I don't need the port compartment. And 8 inch. Is a rough guesstament could you elaborate? This is VERY VERY late but here are the pictures of what im thinking about doing, ive decided to go with aero ports, unless you can think of something else. the sub would be a 10" FI BL and the ports can be any diameter, the tuning is 33 Hz So you want 1.2 cuft? and 15 sqft of port per cube? (this is straight from Fi's enclosure recommendation thread) Well you have 1.213 cuft (assuming that you gave me outer dimensions and 0.75'' wood) just with the 15x15x13 part. The sub displaces .16 cuft. So 1.213-.16=1.053 which is a little short of 1.2 cuft.. can you extend make it like 15.5 instead of 13??? that would work out nicley. I wouldn't use areo ports here.. The air around them will not really get used.. So I say use the part of the box that I was talkin about above for the box and then the other piece can be and external slot port. So can you extend that piece from 13 to 15.5? Also, is the curved piece going to be cosmetic or will it contribute to the volume of the enclosure?

Its not too bad. Scrolling sucks lol, but i'll live. Why couldn't i used those features with the 4x6's? I forgot to mention I have the plate type 4x6's in the rear. So they are really 4 inch midrange drivers with a tweeter off axis. But the fronts are regular oval, coaxial 4x6s

For the great majority of users of an in car setup the D/A difference will be non-existent. The real question is will you benefit from independent L/R eq? Your mounting locations will help determine the answer to that question. Well I have (4) 4x6's. One pair mounted in the dash and the other pair in the "b pillars" (not sure if that is the correct terminology) but they are in a single cab chevy truck. So the rear pair is right by the listeners head. Would I benefit from L/R eq? However, I'm considering doing one 6.5'' component set in the kicks. Also, if I'm not going to use the imprint, I might as well stick with my cda-9855 because it can do everything I want other than the controllable ipod/iphone option. I'll just have to be more careful not to scratch my cd's. W