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imhungnurnot

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Posts posted by imhungnurnot

  1. Posted

    Sounds like you have your accessory and illumination wires switched.

    I never use harness adapters, I always strip the insulation and solder in to the harness while also running a dedicated ground. Never have a problem and it provides a better connection as well.

    IMO, i think you're a retard for doing that... but illumination will not have an effect on the dome light.. illumination is just so your lights on your radio will dim when you turn your headlights just like all the other lights do in any vehicle

    No, that is the dimmer. Illumination lighting is for the lights on the stereo to come on with the vehicle lights, but you have to remember, not every vehicle's illumination works the same. As for the retard comment, I'll play nice.

    Hmm, well I don't think i have a dimmer wire on my harness. But thanks.. but its really not worth it if you're trying to connect all of the speaker wires to.. If all you're doing is the constant positive and accessory positive with a dedicated ground, that's not a bad idea.. but a friend of mine wanted help installing his radio because he couldn't get it to work...

    TURNS OUT HE CUT ALL OF THE WIRES ON THE STOCK HARNESS.. lol yeaa so i had a BADDDD experience trying to fix that.. so thats the reason my "retard" comment came out so quickly.. lol

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  2. Posted

    Sounds like you have your accessory and illumination wires switched.

    I never use harness adapters, I always strip the insulation and solder in to the harness while also running a dedicated ground. Never have a problem and it provides a better connection as well.

    IMO, i think you're a retard for doing that... but illumination will not have an effect on the dome light.. illumination is just so your lights on your radio will dim when you turn your headlights just like all the other lights do in any vehicle

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  3. Posted

    If you put some "chasing" led's on the back of that motor, then you'll have the FLUX CAPACITOR!!!!!! Back to the Future FTW!

    YES!

    Lol, I was waiting for someone to comment on this. But anyway, the sub looks wild.. I'd like to get one, but getting the power to back up subs like this would be the problem for me. I might get a pair of BL's to put on my SAZ 2500 :popcorn:

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  5. Posted

    How do i figure out how the tuning will be affected?

    Figure you net volume and plug it into a calculator and see what it is.. If you want it to be tuned a little higher, take a inch or two off of the port then. Now recalculate the net volume (will be larger than before), and plug it into a calculator. If its tuned too high for your liking, do the same process, just take off less port length in the beginning :drink40:

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  6. Posted

    Yes the fi bl is fully loaded, made for daily tho. I know it's got all the options.

    I have a saz 1000d. Can I buy another 1000 and strap it or just get a 2000?

    I'm guessing you have a dual two ohm woofer.. if so, you might as well try to find a 2000 watt amp. When you strap the two 1000s, the lowest recommended ohm load for a daily driver is 2 ohms. With your dual 2 ohm woofer, you can wire it to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. If you hook it up at 4 ohms to the strapped 1000s, you'll only get around 1000 watts. If hook it up at 1 ohm to the strapped 1000s, each amp will be seeing a .5 ohm load which will void the manufacturer warranty, but you'll have 2000+ watts before imp. rise. But then again, people run .5 ohm loads on sundowns daily.. lol if you want to run this low ohm load, you need to have stout electrical system to lower the chances that you will damage your amps and possibly the sub. So how's your electrical?

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  7. Posted · Edited by Im Hung N ur Not

    Hey man I am currently going though the same thing you are

    I upgraded from 2 saz2000 to 2 saz2500 but my 2 setups both amps are strapped I am in the middle of seeing what I did wrong and I will let you know what I find and maybe it will help you out some

    One thing I could think of for the strapped set up is that sundown mixed the br in with the br out and vise-versa. This is a problem with some of the newer SAZ 1500s. I ran into this problem. To test, play a tone/music so that the bass is audible. Turn off radio, unplug the linking rca from the master, turn the radio back on and see if the volume of the bass is the same or quieter. If it is quieter, then you have them strapped right. If it is the same, then try to plug the linking rca into the "br in" on the master amp instead of the "br out." Also, plug the linking rca into the "br out" of the slave amp instead of the "br in." This will make a world of difference. Ha going from one amp to two amps makes a difference!!!

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  8. Posted

    I was driving last night, and I thought I heard some RCA Noise. So turn the volume down on the HU, put the truck in neutral, and rev the engine. Sounds like a tiny bit of RCA noise. So I say to myself, "Oh well." Ten minutes later I realized the sound was coming from under the hood... :suicide-santa:

    Looks like I have a cracked power steering pump pulley. The noise is really loud now so it may be more than that. AHH that's what you get with a 20 year old truck! Hopefully, nothing else is damaged. I'm gonna try to replace the pulley today. We'll see how it goes!

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  9. Posted

    fuse for your wire at the battery, if you have 1/0 that is only good for 250 amps @ 20' fuse for that, if you have some really nice OFC 1/0 that should handle ~375 amps. then the power for the amp fuse for the amp, then fuse the 4ga going to the 100.4 if you want but should be fine with its fusing. all ways fuse for your wire then you can step it down as you need.

    OFC 1/0? What does OFC mean? I have Streetwires 1/0. Will OFC be printed on the insulator coating of the wire if it is indeed "OFC" wire?

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  11. Posted

    Thank ya. More batts coming + alt. Redoing box, bedliner didnt work out how i wanted. So im thinking of covering it with black vinyl.

    Anyways, the 2500D is a BEAST! its crazy loud. I know this build is going slow as hell :/ im soz. Just real busy. Pretty close to being finished with it all, and in the future if i feel like i dont need back seats. i might add two more xcons :o

    What will you be doing with the SAZ 2500D after you get your SAZ 3500D? I may be interested in buying it so I can strap it with my SAZ 2500D that i just got! :woot:

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  12. Posted

    x2 How much for (2) 7'' carbons and (2) tweeters??? Also, how to order?

    :Doh: did you not read what i just posted? i even gave a link! lol

    sorry man, we posted so close together in time that i didn't see your post.. or maybe i didn't have my page refreshed.. ha my bad dude

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  13. Posted

    nope you will just blow the fusing, if you feel you need 300a then do it but if jacob says you can do 250a then thats what i would do man

    Well yea, a 250 by the amp and a 300 coming off the the battery under the hood. Just for the fact that i'll be running the 100.4 off of the same power wire

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  15. Posted · Edited by Im Hung N ur Not

    So I got my 2500D, and I just realized that it doesn't have an internal fuse. So what to do? Fuse the + lead about a foot from the amp?

    Why doesn't it have a built in fuse anyway? Just wondering.

    Because it needs 250 amps of fusing - that is alot of fuses to put in an amp :)

    Also it is an SPL competition amp and when you run an amp down really low it tends to blow internal fuses.

    Yes, fuse it shortly before the amp.

    Ahhh I SEE! lol, I'll be running the SAZ 2500 along with the SAX 100.4. So should I fuse my power wire off of my battery under the hood with a 300 amp fuse assuming i'll have that amperage available? (which I won't until I get an alternator, but i have a Deka Intimidator 9a31 in the back for now).

    The real question is can you starve your amps of power if you don't have a big enough fuse on the power wire?

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  16. Posted

    So I got my 2500D, and I just realized that it doesn't have an internal fuse. So what to do? Fuse the + lead about a foot from the amp?

    Why doesn't it have a built in fuse anyway? Just wondering.

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  17. Posted

    no, i'm gonna keep it a secret, hehe.

    Ok this is what's gonna happen-

    ALL packages will be insured for the amount paid and ALL packages MUST require signature upon delivery.

    All who have paid will be sent confirmation number showing it has been shipped.

    Oh by the way... transit times for people's packages located within the USA will start moving next week!

    lol, well i had an issue with a not getting a tracking number earlier this week.. I can wait to get the meter! I'll finally be able to do some worthwhile testing!!

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  18. Posted

    fab up a bracket to come down from your roof to hold the mirror. one of my old nissan trucks had the mirror attached to the roof like that and the map lights covered the brackets. never lost that mirror with 6 10s and 1000w

    I actually thought about that, but I'm planning to buy a new truck. Also, I didn't realize how massive the SAX 100.4s are. I ordered one last week not thinking about the size because four channels are usually pretty small. HA well i saw one today in a buddies van.. FREAKING HUGE lol

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  21. Posted

    Make sure your winshield itself is securly positioned. If that is vibrating due to looseness at the edges (worn weather stripping), it can allow extra vibrations across the windshield, which will weaken the glue bond for the mirror.

    Hmm. Could be, after the truck was wrecked the windshield didn't fit quite right. But its in there and it doesn't leak, and i'm not about to try to bend the cab back to its original shape. lol

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  22. Posted

    So after I installed my DD 9512g, its been knocking off my rear view mirror. I think this is the fourth time that it has came off. Its really not that loud to be doing this. It came off at Scraping the Coast 2010 and it took a piece of the windshield with it!!!!! I always use permatex extreme adhesive. I don't know what else to do now. Any ideas?

    Im thinking it might be due to the vibration in my floor translating to the windshield. My floor vibrates a lot along with my side mirrors and door panels.

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  24. Posted · Edited by Im Hung N ur Not

    If you're chasing numbers you picked the WRONG woofer to do it with.

    So your saying this Fi Q12 couldn't reach 140 db? :ehh:

    No, I'm saying you picked the wrong woofer to chase numbers with. I never said anything about not being able to do it.

    Good luck, though. My buddy has 2 15 Qs on 2200rms and was doing 143s. I'd be very impressed to see a single 12 do 140s.

    My buddy had a single 12 Q running a 139 windows up on the windshield with a TL. This was in an extended cab Toyota Tacoma. I'm sure he broke 140 with the windows down. I think he had about 1200 RMS on the sub, and the box was something like 2.6 cuft tuned to 33. The funny thing is that he now has a BTL 15. So if you want loud, just get a BL or BTL now.

    Also, my DD 9512g did a 140.4 in the kick with about 1100 watts after voltage drop. With a better designed box, better electrical, and my pre-ordered SAZ 2500. I'm shooting for 144s! :woot:

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