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imhungnurnot

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Posts posted by imhungnurnot

  3. Posted

    When I bought my first sub, a Fi X 12. I was showing it to this dude who lives by Kicker's CVR. It was in a sealed box that was originally build for a 10.. So it was only like .5 cuft with like 200 watts powering the sub. Well since it wasn't very impressive, he said that Fi stands for "pucking Idiot." Even after I explained that the X was the lowest RMS sub they produce..

    This is the same guy who build a ported box where the port was "designed" to have more port area in one section than the other.. lol. It wasn't a horn. The port started out like 3 inches wide and ended up 6 inches wide inside the box... yea..

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  4. Posted

    Don't use the programs to do that kind of stuff.

    I just use them to tell me how long a port has to be to get a specific tuning, and the airspace for certain dimensions.

    Same here, normally.. Now, I'm just fooling around to see what kind of results they yield. You, of all people on SSA, know that I am curious.. lol

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  5. Posted · Edited by Im Hung N ur Not

    So i'm trying to "model", if that's the correct term, a subwoofer in WinISD and BBP6 as a comparsion between the programs.. They both tune the enclosure super low. WinISD picks a net volume; BBP6 didn't have a specified net volume. Neither suggest port area.. Whats going on?

    EDIT: BBP6 tuned to 23 Hz (super low), WinISD tuned to a reasonable 34 Hz (but net volume was like .5 cuft)

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  6. Posted

    it actually does leave space, cause i still need to leave room for other parts on teh side of the box...

    taht reminds me, if thats constant need for boxes, i should probably move the box in teh trunk of my daily, it side ports and only has like 1-2" before the trunk sides where its at lol..

    front firing port wouldnt work because it would only have 2" or so for my impala... unless i could make it fire through the factory rear speaker grill in the middle of the seat, buit port going through the middle of the box doesnt seem likely

    Well you don't really want the port firing out into air.. (if you fire out of the front, will it be firing into the back seat?) Its better if the port fires at something so the sound waves can reflect off of something. Firing up through the rear speaker gill wouldn't be a bad idea.. it'll reflect off of the back window..

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  7. Posted

    idealy i would fire teh port to the front of the car ... maybe to one of the sides...

    i wish i knew more about all this box building shit...

    Firing out the side would work well.. But then you would need about 4-5 inches of clearance from the side of the box to the side of your car. Im guessing the 33 inches wide measurement doesn't account for this 4-5 inches of clearance. Correct? So you may need to decrease the width to 28-29? (porting out of the side)

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  8. Posted

    I have not really heard tale of an ideal stuffing, but I would suggest placing it as evenly as possible around the entire enclosure. Personally, I usually just toss it in the box and let it do it's own thing, just making sure that it will not hinder the cone's travel, and a pound of fill will take up a whole cubic foot. The theory is the fill slows down the sound wave, so logic would dictate it would be best to hinder the sound wave equally throughout the box. Remember, that any type of disturbance will travel via the easiest path of resistance... everything in nature does. So with that in mind, I have just made it a habit to fill the whole box rather then packing it tight in one location and not another. Some people prefer to use screen, mesh, chicken wire, or whatever to keep it tighter to the walls and I assume they have similar success with it, so I guess it is really not a science... more of just a do what seems right to you kind of thing.

    One thing to keep in mind, if you get the fill in a port, it will also slow down the wave, effectively lengthening the port. Outside of transmission line cabinets where port lengths are absolutely enormous, it is not really recommended to get fill in a port.

    Also, Bass Box Pro has an option to get the Q or the enclosure design based on using polyfil. But to be honest, I don't like the calculations that BBP uses in determining the optimal enclosure for the driver in question. I have found that even with a light fill or even no fill selected, the ideal cabinet size is way off when compared to a classic calculation like that of WinISD. So if you opt to use the BBP methodology, I would be safe and select the light fill option, and pack it fairly heavily. But keep in mind that the response plots shown may differ wildly from the actual response in an anechoic chamber.

    If I were in your shoes, I might try packing the cabinet you have in there already, and see how the system behaves in your vehicle, before going to the trouble of building a new cabinet, only to be dissatisfied with the results. At least you will get a baseline of the behavior you can expect in your vehicle, with the driver in question. It may save you a lot of time and hassle.

    So when designing an enclosure, you rather WinISD over BBP as far as enclosure size and tuning is concerned (disregard the polyfil calculation BBP is capable of)?

    But yes, I already thought about doing that to my current box. Only issue is how to keep the fill from getting in the port? mesh?

    Also, I've seen mass produced enclosures with mesh covering the outside of the port. Is this to make the port "effectively" longer? How does this not decrease port area? Does it work? If it works well, it seems like a good idea because I could make the box even smaller by using mesh and making the port shorter and compensate with mesh over the opening.

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  10. Posted

    I use fill in all my sealed cabinets. Several years ago I did some side by side comparisons, all subjective listening, nothing objective or measured about this. I noticed improvement in depth in and FR on maybe 75% of the woofers, and my testing was done on about a dozen woofers. Of note, these woofers were all in .7 Q cabinet designs, they weren't in smaller cabinets then "ideal". IMO, there was enough improvement in the sound of those it did affect, so that I use them in all my cabinets.

    The general rule of thumb is 1 lb per ft^3. It is also generally accepted that, as KU40 stated, you can expect to notice a 10% gain in perceived enclosure volume.

    Does it matter where you place the fill? i.e. along/around the walls? bunched up in one corner?

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  11. Posted

    So did those links help you at all to better understand how much ah you will need? If so how much do you need another way to calc ah is take the sum of the required fusing and divide by 2 so if I have Single amp that has a 200 amp fusing my required ah is 100 for example but if you play with car on then that number will decrease so that way isn't the best but it gives you a ball park figure of what you are shooting for

    Actually, I already saw those videos. They are very helpful. I'm calculating how many AH's from my batteries I'll need along with how big of an alternator I need to get. Only problem is that I only have room for one extra battery. I bought a Deka Intimidator 100 AH battery for this purpose, and I just wanted to know how many AH's can i account for with my battery under the hood that has a reserve capacity of 115 min. I read up a little more, and a general rule is to divide the reserve capacity by 2 and this is the approximate AH rating of the battery. So I figure that 50 AH is a conservative AH rating for my 115 min. reserve capacity battery. So now I have 150 AH just in batteries, and I'll probably get a 200 amp alternator. This, along with the big three, will be my electrical system for 3 kW

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  12. Posted

    The only issue is where are you firing the port and sub.. the port may not fit (i think you need at least 4 inches from the end of the port to the wall behind the port), From your earlier post, I assume you are firing the sub up. What about the port?

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  16. Posted

    You can normally run 50% less port area on aeros vs standard slot.

    I did 4 4" aeros in 7ft^3 tuned to 37hz for my 18" IA Death Row and it moves some serious air.

    do you think i would be fine with the 1 6" aero then? thats roughly 50% port area then recommended

    Well that's roughly 50% of the minimum port area recommended per cube. The 3 4'' will definitely work. The 1 6'' will probably be fine.. but IMO, 3 4''

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  17. Posted

    You're crossover sub setting will not blow your sub.. just play with it and if it's making bad noises on the higher freq, then bring the LPF to a lower number, or pick a steeper slope. You could possibly have your LPF set to 63-80 with a steep slope (24db/octave). Just test and tune.. Where you will blow your sub is not having your subsonic filter set correctly. I've always heard set your SSF to a few HZ lower than the tuning of your box.

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  18. Posted

    If you have an amp, see if it is turning off when you turn the radio off.. (like its supposed to if you hook it up right) but whoever put your amps in may have tied your remote wire into the vehicles accessory power wire. If this is the case, your amp is still on and you have some sore of problem with power wire ran too close to the rca's, bad ground, or bad amp. Unplug the rca's while it's making the noise and if it stops, then you know you have a problem with your rca's. If it doesn't, the problem is with the ground/amp.

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  22. Posted

    I'll be running a SAZ 2500D and a SAX 100.4. The 2500 will be at 1 ohm and the 100.4 will be at 2 ohms. So that's roughly 3140 watts. I have about a 50 ah battery up front, will have a 100 ah battery in the back (deka intimidator 9A31), and I will have the big three. Will I need a high output alternator? I'm not sure what my alternator is rated for. I'm guessing its between 60-100 amps. I have a Chevy 1500 1990 4.3L V6 w/AC.

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  24. Posted

    Ok i know this is the ohm load i want but are the coils that are run + to - being used or just the + to + and - to - ones being used

    4_2ohmDVC_1ohm.gif

    Thanks

    You should be more clear when you post. All of the coils are being used. Be sure that the + to - "jumpers" on each speaker go from one side of the speaker to the other side (ie linking the + from one coil to the - on the other coil)

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