Tenacious

So you screw up your install and then are worried about voltage on your headunit? Noise created exclusively because of your RCA cables should be addressed by replacing/updating cables. lol.. if you say so. RCA noise from a 4v preout will be less than that from a 2v preout when amplified to the same level, and that's a fact. You are really misinterpreting everything. If the noise is from a source up stream of the rca it will be equally amplified by the amplifier. If it is from the rca then you have an install problem. And again if you think about the dB difference and audible masking it is really rather pointless.Stop regurgitating junk someone who doesn't know what they are doing has told you and think about it for a minute. If you really think that when you have noise from RCA's the best thing to do is to change your headunit, well then you are confused. Solve the problem and stop the ineffective bandaid. I think you're misinterpreting what I'm saying. For equal output, the gain on the amp will be higher with a head unit with 2v preouts vs a head unit with 4v preouts. If both sources have an equal amount of signal noise, the noise from the 2v preout will be amplified more due to the higher gain setting. This is mostly applicable for RCA noise, because any noise before the RCA is going to vary depending on the head unit and other factors. Also, I never said swapping your head unit was the best way to get rid of RCA noise, because it is not. It's simply one way to reduce it but not nearly the best option; however, I wouldn't go quite as far as to call it ineffective. The best solution for RCA noise is to purchase or build properly shielded RCA interconnects and/or route the cables away from any sources of noise.

2 15s has quite a bit more cone area.. But you could afford a better 18 for the same price as 2 15s.

RCA shielding/routing also has a lot to do with noise. Without shelling out quite a bit on RCAs, they're not going to block much if any noise.

So you screw up your install and then are worried about voltage on your headunit? Noise created exclusively because of your RCA cables should be addressed by replacing/updating cables.lol.. if you say so. RCA noise from a 4v preout will be less than that from a 2v preout when amplified to the same level, and that's a fact.

You are right, I could just go off peoples advice and opinions though. I can model all the subs I want but understanding the model and being able to relay it to hands on experience is a diffrent story. I think i'm willing to take my chance with the Fi Q 12's. Modeling is very subjective... TS parameters change significantly after the suspension on the subs begins to break in. Also, some companies' TS parameters are just inaccurate. Finally, once you put an enclosure in a vehicle it will have a completely different response. Subjective, lol. Perhaps a different word would be in order.Some people swear by modeling. It's simply not accurate most of the time, though. Unless you're pulling your own TS parameters AND taking the vehicle in to consideration, I suppose.

4v, 2v doesn't matter. Just get a decent unit with enough outputs and you will be fine.Best budget buy will ALWAYS be used. It actually does make a difference in many installs.. Not always, but if you have noise, 2v preouts will require the noise to be amplified twice as much as 4v outputs. If you have noise, yes... If you don't have noise, probably not.It isn't "if you have noise" but if you are driving your amplifier gain into an area where thermally they aren't quiet anymore. If you have a shitty amp, then yep, you are going to have thermal noise at a much lower level requiring more input.Also, for once contemplate the difference between 2v & 4v in db and then think how often you could have a spot where your amp would have to be in the same position to make the same noise occur between the two. Between that and the fact of how often a 4v head can really output 4v it is a pretty big meh to me as a spec. I wouldn't at all care. Also consider this though: RCA signal noise from a 2v preout will be amplified twice as much as noise from a 4v preout.And you're right about preout ratings.. They're usually highly exagerrated from my personal testing.

If you have noise, yes... If you don't have noise, probably not.

Thanks for the warm welcome

You are right, I could just go off peoples advice and opinions though. I can model all the subs I want but understanding the model and being able to relay it to hands on experience is a diffrent story. I think i'm willing to take my chance with the Fi Q 12's. Modeling is very subjective... TS parameters change significantly after the suspension on the subs begins to break in. Also, some companies' TS parameters are just inaccurate. Finally, once you put an enclosure in a vehicle it will have a completely different response.

4v, 2v doesn't matter. Just get a decent unit with enough outputs and you will be fine.Best budget buy will ALWAYS be used. It actually does make a difference in many installs.. Not always, but if you have noise, 2v preouts will require the noise to be amplified twice as much as 4v outputs.

For lows? The X, hands down. It doesn't excel too much as far as SPL goes, though. You've got a LOT more options in that price range that I'd go to before either of those..

Happy New Years to me! ZCONs are on the way

Took me 5 minutes to figure out how to use mine..

Nearly any head unit will give you that functionality. If you want to amp your door speakers down the road, though, I'd recommend getting a head unit with 3 sets of preouts. I'd recommend 4V or higher preouts, too.. I'm personally fond of Kenwood/JVC and Clarion head units. Alpines are also nice, but are generally pricier than others for the same functionality.

If you know what you're listening for.. Most people don't, hence why I always recommend an oscilloscope.

Oscilloscopes are your best friend

Noob ... Ha, HaWelcome Lol, I thought it was funny..

Nice car! We've got two 2012 Fusion sports in that same color lol.. I'm hoping to get one of them soon And I was kidding about the noob part.. Or was I?

It may have been stated on another page, but what are the outer diameters of both sizes?