SacredTanakh

Ahh that sucks, will a leviathan work in your build?I'm using two 200rms tweets which will be on 1 channel each, so they get 150 a piece @4ohms. For the mids ill bridge four of the channels down to 2 and run the mids which are 225rms at 300w a piece @8ohms. The extra power I will have to be a little careful with but it should make up a little bit for the efficiency difference between the two drivers. I think it will work out. The leviathan might work well for you, depending on what your doing.

Yeah it's sad, because that was very nice amplifier :/ hopefully word will spread a little bit more about zed and they can get there sales up a bit so this doesn't happen.I emailed you Aaron, thanks for correcting this

I just realized I could use the leviathan and bridge 4 of the channels to 2, and then leave the last two unbridged to run my active setup. If the dreadnought is not available I will just switch to the leviathan. I'm determined to run zed one way or another haha.

Okay, thank you.

I actually just bought a zed dreadnought on the ssa store, but on zeds site it says the amp is discontinued. Is it still available? It's the only amp that I know that really fits what I need so it worries me that I may not actually get one. I would hope that you guys would have updated the site to reflect this though.

I like the look of the wardens, and 3500rms sound great and all but.. I would like to the t/s parameters for the warden 21s, xmax and fs mainly. To see if they would fit my goals.

What are you trying to power?? some funky pups?

Nice work man, that's some good lookin wood

Thinking 2 21s walled in a 2013 Chrysler 300 and an NS1 Impulse thought but I might actually do this...

X2 for DLP and DSS

I am pretty excited for these, gonna be switching out the Sp4 for one if the specs are right for me.

That is Insane! I love it. I really like the paint on the wall also.

The one thing I do like by SMD is the new fan controller which you set the temperature and it turns on your fans when needed automatically. That being said it is likely overpriced, and I have no idea if it works correctly. But I like the Idea.

It's cause these things are super sensitive to the slightest of clipping. I can smell it up quick with an Aq2200 no problem. Sure I'm running half ohm and that doesn't help either. Truth is I don't play mine hard unless I demo for someone. I mainly burp at a show and turn the gain know down to listening volume. You get that alt thing worked out and it should help whenever you're above 1700 rpm for sure. Heh actually I think I was a little quick on the draw, I was playing it a ton today for a couple friends, and the only time it got hot was maxed out as far as my voltage would allow on 40hz, seems to get hot fairly quickly with the higher notes, but stays just warm when on the lower notes. Think it was just getting smelly as it was breaking in. I definitely agree that these higher power subs are sensitive to clipping from what I've experienced so far.

I have a 260amp mechman alternator, and I just got it back from sending it in for repair. The alternator has never charged right from the first day I got it, and I thought maybe after it was warranty repaired it would charge at the correct voltage. Nope after a month of waiting, it charges at around 14.0 from 800rpms-1500rpms. 14.1-14.2 from 1600-up. It's supposed to be 14.4 at idle, but it little rally puts out nothing at anything under 800rpms, which my truck kinda varies from 500-800 for idle. The batteries are fine cause they sit at 13.3, and all my belts are tight. The pulley is already probably the smallest they can fit on this alt, so it's not that. My voltage even drops with only 600w rms, from 14 to 13.8-13.6. I'm getting really tired of it not working correctly, and very soon I need to be pushing a 3800w rms amp, so it's pretty important it works correctly. Any idea? Mechman doesn't seem to know why..

Thanks man, it's very frustrating. I'm going to go through all my wiring that has to do with the alt when I get the mechman back and re check everything just to be sure. Also buying a battery hopefully, I'm a little low on funds atm because of purchasing the BC3500. I'm also not really sure how people run 4000+ watts on a sp4. I'm running the 3500 and it's gets pretty hot after a couple mins. Little smelly when it does get hot, but it's still fairly new. Might just be burning off excess glue.

Its not a serpentine belt, its the V style belt. Wouldn't help to use a smaller belt since everything is tight, and its clearly the alt when two other alternators that have been on the truck do perfectly fine. Not to mention these haven't failed not once, in comparison to the mechman alternator which has failed twice.

Just to update those who care, the SP4 arrived, and is in the box. I Haven't had too much play time due to alternator issues, But surprisingly this box has quite the range of response. The sp4 kills the lows as everyone has said, and is loudest in this box around 26-29hz. Response from what I can tell is approximately 23-60hz, I was amazed that even at high 40s to upper 50s the Sp4 sounds clean. I went through 100 square feet of sound deadener very fast on my roof because of this beast, and it could use another 75ft or so.

There seems to be a lot of different recommendations for port area size for the sp4 anywhere from 120-160. For the box I recently built the specs, are 7 cubic ft tuned to 31hz with 150inches of port. The port is double baffled with 45s in the corners, ill post some pictures in a bit. How do you think a fully loaded Fi sp4 18 will do in this box? I haven't designed too many boxes so I hope it is completely right. Also to note ill be running it on a crescendo 3500.

I hooked up a 100$ dollar generic 1 wire 70 amp GM alternator and my voltage is 14.4-14.5 even after warming up. My voltage also snaps back up much faster, although my voltage does drop more when I push it to a certain point, but that is to be expected because of its low amp level. Its all the mechman alternator, my wiring is perfect. Ive also asked for a smaller pulley several times, I'm still working with him to try to get the alternator to the specifications I was actually told. When I did my wiring I soldered everything in the terminals, shrink tubing on the edge of the terminals and wire, and made sure everything was right. The zero gauge I have has an extra thick coating, there is no way it could have chaffed this quickly even if I had been very sloppy.. which I wasn't.

Yeah just to be clear I don't have an issue with the customer service at all, it's very good. Just product so far as been pretty bad, he wants me to send it in again, and this is the last chance for it to be right. Even though I know changing out the regulator is not going to fix the fact that it has low voltage output and doesn't charge at my idle. But... Idk what to do, when I mentioned refund he didn't seem to keen on doing that. I've been having the worst luck lately.

I did buy a one wire alt today until we can figure this out, but they are gonna have to change something other than the regulator cause it neither gets the voltage, amps, or even work for more then a couple weeks. I should get what's advertised, plus the fact I have to pay shipping everytime it dies is getting expensive. So that's why I'm angry. But anyways hopefully he can build a elite for me, but it still isn't right that I have to pay more just to get a working one from them.

So guess what that piece of shit mechman sent me doesn't work once agian, and this time I'm really upset cause I can't afford to not be able to to work. I can't keep having this shit happen

I'm using a multimeter in which I know is accurate. The reason why it does that is because the rpms go up at idle when the engine warms up, so after I finish driving somewhere it's warm enough to push my rpms up to 1000, which is why it does that. I just need to turn it down a little bit.

I plan on testing with a brand new battery soon, we'll see what happens.