SacredTanakh

The way you phrased it seemed odd to me, you said it lights up on some songs but not others. To me it sounds perfectly normal, every song has a different level that its recorded at. some will be at -2db, some will be at -36db. If your want to you can set your gain high enough that you can use the bass knob to get to clipping on all the songs you listen to. I find my bassknobs to be very accurate, but I cant say for other amps (crescendo 3500s) if you play bass kicks with definite clipping and without clipping you can train your ear very easily to hear the clipping at all times. Once you know what distortion really sounds like, it will be obvious and you wont even need a clip light. I know someone is going to have an issue with what I said but everyone has there opinions and this is mine. hope it helps.

No prep really. It's self leveling. Just pour it and spread it around. that's awesome, might have to try it out. Thanks

Now I've pretty much maxed out the weight in batteries I feel comfortable putting in the 300 considering this is my daily rig atm. I've never run this crazy of an amount of power before so do you guys think I can get away with 2 340 amp alternators, and 5 group 31 agm batteries? With the leviathan and the 2 12ks that should be around 1800amps at 13.8v. Obviously I won't get 14.7 with no drop, but I just don't want to be dropping into the 11s. As long as I'm at 12.0 and up I feel safe. Since you guys have ran that much power and know that electrical isn't completely black and white, you guys should have a general idea. I suppose the electrical section would be a more appropriate section but tell me your guys thoughts and excitement about the new Amps too!

A little look at the innards. I've realized very quickly from the 3-4 different walls I've done there's no point in over thinking a wall before you start to build it. Its going to change and twist more than you can ever account for to get the space you need/want. I'm at around 21cubes and 30hz currently but I had to cut the port area down slightly. Wanted to tune real low or really high with a large port, but modeling it without cabin gain this came out with the best overall response. With the peak of the car being 39hz I think response will stay in the range I'm looking for.

As much as I agree with you guys since I had already contacted juicebox battery to get a quote haha.. The price he gave is quite over my budget, I figured he'd give me a good deal if I mentioned sencheezy but nope. 3000 for a single battery is going to take me a while to get to with everything else I still need to buy for the build. We will see maybe ill run the amps at 2ohm till I have the lithium battery. But anyways the general consensus is no then on my electrical? lol..

I'm curious about the gelcoat too, what kind of prep work do you need to do? Also I assume it's sprayed correct?

At least a month and a half, wall will be done sooner. subs won't be here till then cause I'm getting raped real hard on shipping to Alaska lol.

I already changed it after putting thought into it a month or so ago. So two 9in morel caraudio midwoofers per door with 4 morel378s total and only one leviathan. The morel woofers are insanely expensive but they have awesome specs unlike anything else I've seen. Oh and my tweeters will never change I absolutely adore these morel 378s.The neo pro 10s are plenty loud and sound great but I still find myself looking something else. Hopefully the morels will fill the need. Put a ton of thought into it.

~20cubes, 30hz, 280in^2 of port more pics soon...

That's plenty of electrical for a single 3500. But do as much as you can afford, the more the better in the long run.

That's plenty of electrical for a single 3500. But do as much as you can afford, the more the better in the long run.

They are built by the same build house.So they r all basically all the same? A couple are so close that they would be indistiguishable in sound, but no they are not ALL the same.

I have a 2013 chrysler 300 awd v6, and I am insanely picky with rims. I pretty much hate them all to be honest but I have finally found the one and the only rim for me. I want the velocity vm12 22s. Which have all the right specifications except being an offset of 30mm. The recommended offset for my car is between 34-42. Do you guys think I can get away with that 4mm? Maybe not with regular sized tires but with low pros? I do not know much about rims honestly but looking at the car there is a solid 3-4in around the front tire to the fender. speaking of which I know nothing about tires either, what size low pro would work with these rims and my car? Also can't a machine shop trim 4mm from each rim, and how cost effective is that really? I researched as much as I could but what I found didn't give me enough information to be confident in anything I picked as far as tire specs or rim specs. Thanks guys! any other tips are much appreciated.

you wouldnt think so but if you think about it im adding an inch and a half of width with the rim on top of the lower offset which adds up to most of the width going straight out. it will probably end up rubbing on tight turns but hopefully thats it.

okay so I assumed the worst since I can't find the offset of the stock rims, and put the offset in the calculator as 45. and even then they should only stick out 1.25in from the stock. With low pros they should be the same circumference total. Right now the stocks sit an inch inside the wheel well in the front, and the rear sits at 2in from the wheel well. I turned the wheel back and forth on my car to see if there were any problem areas, and there seems to be enough clearance for that 1.25in. It will likely be less then 1.25 though so I think I'm going to take the chance on these. Is there any other things I should look at, and does that all sound right?

Thanks! that was way more detailed than the other offset calculator is that i was using.

I read that explanation before but still not confident in saying whether they will fit not. I know for a fact they fit rwd versions of my car. They are 22x9 and the stock I'm pretty sure are 19x7.5

Its such a small change you would never know the difference in response. Soooo unless your just that much of a perfectionist that it must be nearly perfect.. than I wouldn't worry about it

All the lights were on in the top two photos... thats how bright these are. stuck outside while the mercedes is getting fixed. This is how the caps are integrated. (4700uf) mounted the ballast to the bottom of the fog assembly, came out very clean actually. overview picture, wires tucked away. fogs and headlights at night they are still a warm white at 6000k 55w. Wanted a slightly cooler whte, but thats okay.

I would not listen to some members in this thread...As they have no experience with very few products except what they google.. Even though they may have thousand's of shit post Via 'searched' on the web' with no real experience "except what he or she said" I would love to see the products this looser has! not pointing any fingers but jay-cee you are a bitch! and only post on other people's experience..lol seriously? this post annoyed the shit out me. jay-cee is quite knowledgeable/helpful and you have no right to be insulting him in anyway.

and this is why you buy HIDs in Alaska... moose ran out in front of me while I was testing them.

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s643/sacredembers/48A4AC4E-D0AB-433F-83E2-D0A5A81E1B1C_zpstip6bmyr.jpg Bought 2 sets of Morimoto 55w ballasts, and 6k bulbs to replace the ddm tuning ones. Installed the first set hoping they would handle the high voltage since the ddm tuning ballasts couldn't. The right one does fine but the left one shuts off at any voltage peaks above 15, which happens everytime I hit the gas. Incredibly annoying considering these supposed go up to 32v. I'm guessing it's because I don't have caps and resisters in for ballasts. Going to try that and see what happens. Waiting on installing the halos till I have some oracle inline voltage regulators. Lighting has been more of a project that I had anticipated, and more expensive. (700 so far)

Purely a SPL woofer? or will the soft parts make enough of a difference to make a more flat response with emphasis on low end? just curious. Either way, good to see a big neo motor that wont be completely shielded of all the specs like the Warden and Z.

Looks like Sketchup Sacred not scared.. He is buying my 18s. Box I designed is 15.78cubes tuned to 31hz with 230square inches of port.

My Sp4s have been taking ~4k for over a year without a single issue. Its not the woofer...You can't rule out that his sub might have had some kind of defect just because you had been running your sp4's for a year.Its a lot more likely that you have used/treated it improperly. Although it is possible.