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lazeris

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Posts posted by lazeris


  1. Still nothing on the fan?

    Its been a great amp. But it's embarrassing when I want to show someone my system and this noisy ass fan is heard when the volume is low. Its really bad if I want to drive with no music and all you can hear is this annoying fan in the background.


  2. I suck at google sketch. Can someone help me? I know the dimensions but I would like to see it in 3D.

    Width, 38 inches

    Height, 18 inches

    Top Depth, 10 inches

    Bottom Depth, 18 inches

    This is for a 15 inch sub. The sub will be mounted on the angled panel.

    I am using two 4 inch aero ports that will be mounted on the top 10x38 panel.


  3. Would the HC1400 be good enough as a supplement batt in the rear? I'm very careful with my equipment. Iv had the following setups and never fried and amp or blown a sub:

    Very first system I messed around with was when I was about 13, LOL, this is embarrasing but I hooked this up in my moms ride. Two Radio Shack Optimus 8's in truck style sealed enclosures on a sherwood 2ch amp.

    Then at 16 my older brother wanted something installed in his new 97 civic, so I put in two Orion XTR2 8's in a bandpass box off of a little 2 ch Power Acoustic amp.

    When I got my first car or truck I should say, I took the Orion subs and we put in two Pioneer 12's in bandpass boxes off of a JBL amp, I forget the model.

    Well soon after I sold the Orion subs and gave the little Power Acoustic to a cousin and purchased two JL W3 10's in a sealed box and a Precision Power PC2400 ( I think that was the model)

    Then I sold my 88' S-10 (stupidest thing I ever did) because I had gotten a new 2000 Malibu I purchased some W3 12's in a prefab sealed box being pushed by a JBL BP1200.1 (great amp)

    I think this is getting too long so I will just say my next few sub/amp combos were never abused and worked great while I owned them, these were all on stock electrical unless noted otherwise.

    2- Rockford Fosgate HX2 12's/JBL1200.1 (same as above)

    2- MTX 9512/Hifonics Brutus BXI2005 (I think that was the model) With this setup I had two yellow tops, one in front, one in back and big three done.

    1- RE Audio MX18/US Amps AX3200-DE (ran at 2ohms) Kinetik hc1400 in front, HC2000 in back.

    2- TC Sounds OEM10's/same amp as above, still at 2ohms. Same batteries as above.

    Maybe I don't push my system as hard as others do, I dont know, but the loudest I have gotten on music has been about 135 decibels. Main reason I started this threat is to see what others thought would be good for a one battery setup and if that could get me 140's on music. I may be looking into this too much but I just wanted some opinions before I start making some purchases.


  4. Good idea on the volt meter. I will use that. Still want more suggestions on amp/sub combos.

    Here is what I am leaning towards right now:

    1 DC Audio LVL4XL 15" in 5 cubes @ 35hz off of a Stetsom 1k5.

    Would that get me in the low to mid 140's on music so I can bass race 139.9 class? BTW the amp sub combo does not necessarily have to do that, but it would be nice.


  5. Stock alt is 110amp. IF i absolutely have to, I have a Kinetik HC1400 I can put in the back, but I would rather save the space/weight of adding an extra battery. I also would not put anything bigger than a HC1400 in the back if I needed an extra battery.


  6. I would love to replace my stock alt but It will cost around $700 just for the alt, and its mounted under the engine so I do not want to tackle that job so that means I would have to pay someone to do it. I am making %30 percent less than I was when I got laid off from my old job. Im happy to have a job but I just will not be able to put in the system I wanted.

    Yes it is a CRV, its an 07' I am keeping the stock system in for now because I LOVE the navigation unit in there and I already have an RF 360.2 I will be using to tap into the stock sound system. I may add a 4ch down the road but it will not be anything big.

    I can build my own box and will be doing so.

    Wires, fuses, ect, I already have.

    The problem I am having is choosing the right sub/amp combo. Yes I want to get as loud as possible, but this will be for music.

    I may compete from time to time but it would probably be just bass race.

    If you want a budget lets say $1000, JUST SUB(s) & AMP.

    I know it depends alot on install but like I said I have about 5 cubes to play with for the sub box alone.


  7. I have ideas about what I am going with but I want to see what others would do in my situation.

    I want to get as loud as possible in a setup with one battery under the hood.

    Here is the catch. The battery has already been decided. It is a XS Power D3400. Stock alt.

    Lets just look at the subwoofer setup. I am keeping my stock mids and highs for now.

    Also I would like to keep as much cargo space as I can in my small SUV.

    I will even throw this out there. For the sub box I have about 5 cubes of space I can work with.

    So basically I am looking for a sub/amp combination that would work with my electrical.


  8. What is the importance of an amps efficancy?

    I know being effeciant in anything is good, but how does this affect amplifier performance when comparing apples to apples.

    If you have one amp that is say 90% effeciant at 4ohms and another amp that is 70% effeciant at 4ohms and are both rated to put out 500 watts at 4ohms at 12.8 volts; what does the effeciancy rating tell me, the consumer, about the amp I am using?

    Any input would be appreciated.


  9. Well my last setup was a US Amps AX-3200 and the only electrical upgrades were a Kinetik 1400 up front and a 2000 in the back. It ran fine at 2 ohms. So with this setup I am planning on going simple and light so I squeezed the biggest I could fit under the hood so I went with a XS Power D3400 which is supposed to be good for up to 2500 watts so we will see.

    Oh yeah, which one would be the most efficient at 1ohm?

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