scampo77

Well this is great my goal is to learn more about this, and I am. The "mass only" argument seems to make a lot of sense and what is getting me great results so far. It is just that it adds confusion when I get different advice from different people. I called around locally and the sound studio builders all said use rockwool and so did the hardware store guy and even the bag says "sound stopper". I was trying to pack it in as tight as i can get it to add mass. It seemed to be a good fit for those hard to reach spots around the heater boxes and fire wall. If I shouldn't use rockwool inside my panels. should I use more vinyl?

I don't want to bother him. it is unlikely i would buy anything from him anyway. it is just to expensive to start mailing mass loaded vinyl around especially internationally. I am looking for more scientific answers, a better understanding of how unwanted sound moves and can be cancelled. I am also looking for more of a home brew kind of way. the fiberglass so far has made a HUGE difference in sound quality. I think that most of my problems were rust holes, holes in the firewall, and floor that went unused from the manufacturer. Now that my floor is one massive sheet of fiberglass there seems to be getting less sound/heat/vibrations through the floor. I found a guy locally who buys all sorts of weird and unusual end of the roll vinyls. I am going down to see his warehouse tmrw he is supposed to have hundreds of different kinds of vinyl in stock, unfourtunatly he doesnt know very much about the end uses of this stuff, as he is just a buyer and reseller. I am really having a hard time knowing what i am looking for as i have nothing to compare it to, because i have never seen MLV before. I will go tmrw and try to find something that is as heavy as possible and report back!! any suggestions for what i am looking for would be appreciated. im gueissing something very heavy, something with no foam or hair on one side (for glueing it down) and something something not transparent like net. i will look for the glue you suggested i just have one question about urathane glue, it is the stuff used for glueing car floor pans together and mounting windshields. can i use this stuff? i have a whole case

I have been waiting for 2 weeks there is no response from this guy at this website, he must be on vacation or something

If i do decide to go with MLV where can i buy it from? Also how thick is it? What kind of adhesive should i use to glue it all together. i wont be able to put it down in one perfect sheet I will have to cut and fill everything then lay down a second layer. I have got rockwool that I am using for the headliner and inside the panels. I am still not too sure what to use for the doors. Is there any generic home products I can use that are just regular ordinary vinyl, that I can just double up?I have a few reservations about MLV. 1.) I have to buy 3 times what i need 2.) I live in Canada and this stuff from what I can tell MLV is not for sale or manufactured anywhere in Canada. The problem with very heavy sound deadening products is they are.... welll..... heavy. the problem with shipping heavy sound deadening products internationally....is....welll......................

NOW WE ARE GETTING SOMEWHERE!!!! is there any health hazards to lining my truck with lead? so what about my washed rock locked in plastic idea. how dense is stone? is there density ratings for different types of cement? i know a place locally to get lead sheets. it is used for lighting, i would like to try this.

i figured i would have to add something ontop the fiberglass. im not sure what you mean by fiberglass is light? it was 2 fold deciding on the fiberglass first i figured it would be fluid enough to squish into all places then it would dry and stay there, it could fill all the holes in the cabin this way. right now i have about 7 gallons of resin and 15kgs of glass on the floor. its not like insulation in the wall of your house its like the hull of a boat or the shell of a hut tub. if you have picked up a 5 gallon pail of waterand felt the weaight , well im at 7 gallons of resin. it is adding mass and weight and it is filling in all the holes and its giving me a nice smooth surface to put a layer on top of. I should be done the fiberglass by this coming weekend then i need to know where to go from there. if its more mass then i still think that washed stones or silica sand locked in polyester would add more mass then anything else availible. most people sound deadening dont have the luxury of putting 6-800 lbs in their cabs without popping their tires, i do and id like to win by 20 touchdowns if i could. I just dont want to pointless add weight. once i make polyester/stone contraption and it DOESNT work. it WONT come out. i will need a baby elephant and a jack hammer to even start, and ill probably just end up breaking all the windows out of my truck. rubber seems like the next logical step i just need some informed opinion. i will keep waiting for Don

Does anyone knowhow to reach Don? I've tried sending him a email, Private message and links to this thread and so far no response.

well from what i am "hearing" nothing has failed yet. but it is like hitting a piece of glass with a hammer. just cause its not broken now...... if you have accses to a dealership go in the back and try to find a mechanic with some sort of electrical knowledge. they are hard to come by cause most mechanics like to blurt out "ya ya i know everything about this stuff" if you can use your best judgement and try to ask an experienced guy some of your questions and give him your symptoms. the main sensor i have seen fail due to electrolysis is the air bag accelerometer, this used to be on the firewall but now are under your console or under your seat (depending on vehicle). these bolt to your car and rely on a body ground back to the control module. imagine that sensor asking for .003 amp to genereate a signal and your 130 plus amp load coarseing through the floor pan like a steamroller overtop sensitive (and not so sensetive) sensors and controllers. AND your beating on it so bad your actually shutting off control modules. you are going to (if you havenet already) create ground loops which throw sensors and controllers out of parameters. with the abs and crash sensors in modern vehicles when they come on they can STAY on till the sensor or controller is logged against the VIN in the govt registry and the sensor/computer is replaced with a new one and reset with dealership only scan tools. you may get a false reading causeing this to log as an accident. if that happens it may de value your car on resale for no reason. all of these situations are worst case scenario,a lot needs to be in place before like, IF your car is equiped with..... IF your ground looping.... IF...IF....IF.... but with that being said i have seen this before with car audio but more with poorly thought out big amp draw things like hydralic pumps or actuators for things like snow plows or tail gates. as for the second alternator, you need to know that if you are running an aditional 60amps that is ~1HP. your crank pully and belt is not designed to just have an extra 1HP load hanging on it. cars are designed to get fuel economy (amongst other things) and one way to do this is to build them lighter and an easier to turn engine and pulleys. I would try a second and third battery first, this will dampen out a lot and they will be easier to retro fit in your car.

if you can see a 12v spike on a digital meter then i have no doubt you are going below regulated voltage to the body computers. If you hook up an oscilliscope you will see it right away.I dont need your wiring diagrams to tell you are drawing more current then the battery can buffer. I work at ford as a mechanic and i see this all the time and i have all my carrer. people put massive current aftermarket amplifiers then bolt them to the body of a framless car. these things come into the shop often enough this reaks havoc on all sorts of weird and unusual things you would never expect. fuel pumps, window regulators, heater cores, body computers (ESPECIALLY AIRBAGS!) look up DC electrolosys on google. i have even seen one guy rust out one frame rail while the other was fine. it is something car audio guys dont realize because after an airbag controller or heater core fails you never bring it back to the guy that installed a car radio, you bring it to a guy like me. this problem seems to be getting wrose as power gets cheaper and car subs are getting more inefficient. for $100 and a ebay account you can hang a 60amp dynamic draw off the side of a 80 amp static charging system do yourself a favor and hook everything to the battery. and by the sounds of it get a second one. and/or get more efficient speakers. figure out what peak amp load is on your aftermarket stereo to take this further. not the stickers on the side of the amp but an actual measurement with a shunt or keep putting a smaller and smaller fuse in till it blows under full load.

let me know if you are still interested in fixing this problem. If you have accses to a scan tool and see if it has thrown a code for low abs voltage. The computers for ABS and airbags are on 10v regulated power supplies and are very sensitive. Other (but not all) engine managment systems run off of 5v regulated power and are much more forgiving to spikes. I am thinking the same as everyone else here that it is a current spike dropping the voltage below 10v, if that is the case you can cause damage to a specific part in the airbag system. let me know how you would like to proceed and if you need some help.

1.) How many amps is your stereo drawing? 2.) Can you get it to repeat with consistency? 3.) Where is the power for your amps coming from? email me directly scampo77@gmail.com so i can get your vin number to look up wiring diagrams.

A LOT!! but its still lighter then washed garden stones I am trying to stop everything as much as possible, I am after every dB I can get. I spend 40+ hours a week in my truck and i am going deaf. I see people at SPL contests just put like 18" of concrete in their cars. its a bit excessive but i just figured it was the way to go. if all i am after is mass then can i just do the the washed stones in polyester idea? I cant think of anything with more mass or density the stone.

I am very interested in this topic and after a google search I kept being redirected here, so i signed up. i read don's forst pinned post ashphalt vs sound deadener. i must say my opinion was the same as the examples "well it worked good till it fell off on the second hot day" and i was "that guy" saying stuff like "hey you can get that stuff from home depot" well i am willing to conceed and try a different aproach for this new project. my vehicle is a commercial truck, a 5 ton like a moving truck you probably see making deliveries in your city. i have no hood, it is a tilt cab so i sit directly overtop the engine and cooling fan. after a HP upgrade and a 2nd turbo charger i now have to drive with ear plugs in when i am on the highway and when the fan comes on i just cringe. I have brain stormed with other people and some of the ideas I/we have come up with are.... -i wanted to pour concrete into the floor pan with chicken wire as rebar -washed garden stone in a polyester (fiberglass resin) put this down on the floor pan -full blown highway ashphalt -cement sandwiched inside fiberglass (like a concrete eskimo pie) -those thick rubber stair covers for outside steps cut and screwed to the floor -welding a iron "turtle shell" overtop the engine and rad Right now I have decided to go with fiberglass and resin like building a hottub, I am almost done and I have put down .75-1" of various fiberglass products down on the floor. it will be smooth when I am done and thick like crazy. I WAS going to put down the tar roof stuff from home depot on top of this, untill i found this forum. Aside from mail order stuff what can I use from the local hardware store after the hottub floor plan? should i be looking for something like neoprene? or a thick rubber? or am i forced to buy actual engineered sound deadening products? right now i am trying to patch all the manufacturing holes, rust holes, imprefect seams in the construction of the car. i keep setting off smoke bombs in the cabin and chasing the escaping smoke and patch the holes with fiberglass. i figured getting all the holes patched would be a good first step. any ideas would be greatly appreciated.