1two3

i want to make a ported box for my xcon 10 and i was thinking about modifying the predesigned enclosure to make it fit for my car. I'm just curious why the boxes are the same for the xcon and icon 10's. the recommended specs are different for the 2 woofers but i can't find a difference between the pre designed enclosures. should i be using the recommended specs as a guide or the predesigned enclosures as a guide. just a bit confusing.

ok thanks so then what would kind of numbers would i be looking at for port area for my xcon 10?

and my experience with bass knobs is dont touch em all they do is clip

find a good bass heavy song that u know is not clipped and start with ur gains all the way down bass boost off on amp and head unit. slowly turn her up until u hear some clipping the back it off a hair and ur golden. also make sure u wire it properly. im presuming its a dual 2 ohm sub so heres the way to do it: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=22#results and enjoy! to the forum

do u have the equation on hand? id love to have it to double check my work aswell

i hit a 143 with my sealed xcon on my t1000...shouldnt be any prob for you to do 144+

totaly sucks man. i totaly agree too. i dont care how good of a company it is if they got poor CS then im on to the nex one

if and when i get around to upgrading my alt mr singer will be the one getting my money

Although this is probably no help at all right now but I had my xcon 15 sealed and I never once skipped a beat...not that I can remember anyways

haha read the specs before u build a box...

theres my sealed one. net volume 1.16cubes

never designed a ported box before so feel free to give any critisism/help for an xcon 10" net box volume 1.37 cubes port length 31.05" diameter: 1.75" if anyone is so inclined feel free to double check calculations and such as ive never done this before and might have done something wrong all info should be in pics bellow

for the most part yes but tline will most likley sound better tho. loud and clear. Then you should have shared it. Second post regurgitates the specification, not what you have to deal with. Starting with YOUR space is the first step. Should happen way before even shopping for a driver. Doesn't make it a good choice either. See both Lithium's post and mine. Clearly not ready to even choose. When you also state what you think you will gain by doing the monstrosity you propose you will finally realize the futility of it as well.Not sure why you choose to listen to misinformation as gospel, but when people want to actually help you close off. anyways ive decided to try 3 different boxes and see/hear first hand how they are different. optimal sealed, optimal ported and t-line. ill be fine with designing the sealed and the t-line. but i will require/appreciate help with the ported. id like to have a sq box with decent output. a box to enhance the qualities of the sub. the space i have to work with is large but id like to keep it 32" wide by 14-16" high and the space between the back of my seats to the gate/hatch is 25" so it would have to be smaller to give the port some room. id be willing to try slot and or an aeroport. since i have a rf amp subsonic filter is limited to 28hz. personal experiences with this sub and type of box/tuning/anything helpfull is appreciated!

i cant seem to find it atm so i retract my previous statement. he does state that its mostly not worth the cost or effort but it can still be a fruitfull pursuit for those questing to have the very best loudspeaker ever produced. (pg.95) i found the design easier than a ported box myself but im also new to all of this.

i already have all that information as is evedent by my second post in this thread. i do infact have the space for a tline in my car but that doesnt make it a poor choice. i could even go as small as a cube sealed if i wanted to/the need arose. i cant really do that with one or both of my 15's can i?

That'll be a fail. So much terrible misinformation on SMD it is sickening. Yes, huge it will be...and a waste in a car. why would it be a fail? and why a waste in a car? Didn't you read your other thread? More expense, more time, more wasted space, won't help hit the targeted response, first attempt won't work, will look ridiculous, hard to fit....The real question that you should clear up for your self is why you stated, "all specs lead me to believe that it will sound amazing in that type of box." Somewhere on SMD they are confusing people, because that is not the case. Curious why you think so, once we know it'll be pretty easy to show you why its not. not only acording to other peoples actual experiences with t-lines and using the tutorial/guide that i linked/quoted but also according to the loud speaker cookbook. if u like i can find it for you but it mentions that t-lines are forgiving (so u can scratch "first attempt wont work") and have a relatively flat response. yes it will be a huge box but if you wanna try it why not? why not compare first hand what people are saying rather than having these types of arguments when u can go out and try it and actualy KNOW first hand what you prefer/what will be a better box for you? i say go for it. i know im going to

thats just the thing. the one on the site is just copied and pasted from the icon. and i did use that as a template to design my original posted design but some beleive the port is too narrow

That'll be a fail. So much terrible misinformation on SMD it is sickening. Yes, huge it will be...and a waste in a car. why would it be a fail? and why a waste in a car?

planing on building a t-line for my xcon 10. all specs lead me to believe that it will sound amazing in that type of box. if u want a good tutorial u can look up the quarter wave tutorial on smd forum. be warned tho for a 12 its gonna be a freaking huge box

well this sucks. the more i look/ask around the more i hear thats wrong, dont do that. it seems that all info floating around is either misconception or just plain false. is there any one that can either help me design a proper ported box or link me to some actual reliable resource so i can figure out how to do it myself?

Yea I was considering a an aero but probably just straight PVC no flares. How do u figure out what size pipe to use?

k so i got through most of it but im lost at the cross sectional area part. i got all the other calculations (how correct they are im not sure) but i just dont understand what to do with it/what it measures my calculated Dmin (minimum port diameter) came out to 30.8cm ill qoute wich part makes no sence to me: "Slot Ports If you wish to use a slot port, first determine the diameter of a round port that has the same cross-sectional area as the slot. The following equation can be used to do this: Dv' = 2*((W*H)/pi)^0.5 where, Dv' = diameter of equivalent round port W = width of slot H = height of slot Once you've calculated Dv', you can use it in the equation for Lv above to determine the required length of the slot port to tune the enclosure to the required frequency (Fb)." does that mean figure out what daimeter the port will be going through the hypotenuese [/] or accross [-] the port

around 1200rms. i recalculated and u are in fact correct. i got 1.31627 cubes net with everything subtracted (first time i think i added some) no i can deffinatly do bigger, its going in an SUV ill sketch up another one this weekend and hopefully fix these issues. is there a calculator for port area or is this a rule of thumb?

Just occurred to me that the optimal enclosure volume for the xcon is 1.5-1.75 cubes. The predesigned enclosures offered for the xcon are 1.1 cubes and 1.35 which happens to be the exact same as the icon designs. Perhaps Aaron or someone Could chime in on this/confirm that it would be better to make my box 1.75cubes rather than 1.35'

how noticable were the results? could u tell by ear or using the meter?