The Natural

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This installation manual reads "It is necessary to provide input to both channels when operating the amplifier." Just to be sure, I used both inputs when operating the two I have in bridged mode and they worked fine. http://www.usamps.com/technical/pdf/owners_manual%5B1999%5D.pdf

I thought I remember reading somewhere that they should both be hooked up Here are some white papers pdf files that may help: http://www.usamps.com/technical/pdf/owners_manual%5B2001%5D.pdf http://www.usamps.com/technical/pdf/wp150_99.pdf

link: http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/WaterproofingAntiFractureMembranes/RedGard.aspx When I tested the material on a sheet of steel, it performed comparably to an aluminum backed mat.

Audibel Customs...thank you for the only useful input on the subject. As I stated, I should have known better.

It's called metal fatigue...steel is strong but it cannot take the flex. Time to break out the welder and add some SERIOUS bracing all the way across the roof/windshield line. If you can stop it from flexing, it will not break. Awesome job btw...keep us posted!

i should of thought to catch you guys on video getting demos in the neon. maybe someone did, not too sure. ill have some pics up soon. Yeah, I was thinking a video or pic of me trying to catch my breath in the Neon would be epic!!! I would have loved to see the expression on my face! LOL

If you connect it in parallel with the power and ground on the amp, it will still be grounded to the chassis, albeit not directly. But if it is charged by your alternator, you know it is connected to both the positive and negative(ground) sides of the system. I believe that hooking it up in parallel with the power wires going to the amp will allow for less resistance between the Batcap and the amplifier by not going through a longer ground path.

I have an old Pioneer DEH P930 that is in need of repair. I believe it needs a new ribbon cable, but no matter...my questions center around the deck's features. One of my favorite features of the unit was it's capability to make low bass from recordings where there was none. I never checked the output on an RTA, but I would be willing to bet that the effect is that of an Epicenter, where a bass line is created one octave below the lowest notes in the original recording (if I remember reading that correctly). The owner's manual mentions an "Octaver" function and "Dynamic Bass Emphasis"... does anyone know which of these two features is creating this effect? I called Pioneer and they cannot tell me, and I can't tell from the description in the owner's manual. The "Octaver" would be my first guess, but there is not a good description of it in the owner's manual. I have not been able to find another head unit with a function such as this, does anyone know of one? I am going to try to get my old Pioneer repaired because I love the sound and features, but I may just add an Epicenter anyway in case I want to add a USB deck into the mix.

Yeah, after reading THIS STORY I'm sure we can all believe what Nick is saying about those Neo magnets!!! Yikes! btw...awesome stuff Nick, keep it up!

Nick or Josh...when you get a chance, send me a cell phone number or two @ moneyopoly"AT"aol.com I've got a technical question for you guys. Paul

I have an older Pioneer DEH P930 with a bass enhancement feature that works like an Epicenter. As a bass lover...I have enjoyed being able to use this feature without having to add another piece of equipment (such as an Epicenter), just for this feature, into the system. Do any current Pioneer models have this feature? Do any other manufacturers build a circuit like this into their decks or processors? Thanks!

Sweet! Are the 16 twelves sealed or ported? So Steve Cotton was onto something after all I guess? I remember pics of his truck with a setup very close to that...even the red paint inside the diamond. Just goes to show, we just didn't have the right equipment available way back then.

With 3 batteries in the trunk, I seriously doubt you will ever pull enough current to pop a fuse that big. Unless you are trying to draw way to much power for those three batteries, they act sort of like an electrical shock absorber and supply the spikes that your system needs, while the wire from the front will keep current flowing from the alternator to keep the rear batteries charged. As long as the fuse or breaker isn't too much for the wire (not a problem in your case with 3/0!) you are safe. I like the idea of a circuit breaker (the largest I remember seeing for car audio is a 200 amp I think) so you can just trip it if you need to cut the power for any reason, then reset it again repeatedly. Also, a large inline relay, wired to separate your front batteries from your rear bank when the key is off, will prevent the two battery banks from draining one another. This will also allow you to run the stereo some with the car off with no worries about not being able to start the car if you run the rear bank too low. I'm no electrical engineer, but that's my take on you situation. I'm interested to hear from others.

Yeah right, I'd have to take my blowgun so I could shoot Alan Dante when he was not looking and put him to sleep until the show was over. I think that if we find the time and money to return, you'll see us in Bass Race... I'd love to build an IA demo van or suv and take it to shows just to demo it for people all day instead of having to worry about competing. - Paul

I absolutely loved the old school USA-2000 I used on my front stage at 8 ohms a few years ago. But, now that I have sold all four that I had (like a nutcase!) I am interested in what would be as good or better in the near future. I am considering switching to a 4 ohm load so I am very interested in the old USA2000x. My questions center around comparing these models to some of the newer lines. Would I be better off with the amps mentioned above or something like AX-1000, AX-2000, MD23, or maybe some similar 4 channel models bridged to 2? I have been thinking old school the whole time because I haven't kept up to date on the new stuff enough to know how it compares. Thanks, Paul

Seems to work fine Nick. I like it. I haven't checked it with old school math but I assume to wrote it using the proper formula. This is nice to have on hand since I lost my old Cujo program and have never bought any design software. Thanks!

Agreed 100%. Please do car audio fanatics everywhere a favor and get the Caddy in a magazine feature.

Do you have pictures of, or a link to pics of the 10s? Any comparisons to similar drivers? Thanks

Ok, were the fish a joke, an accident, or did you guys go fishing in FL? Nice pics BTW!

Ok guys, give me the details on your 40.1 amps. Let's say someone wanted to build an Extreme 2 car with the goal of being the world's loudest car. I assume they are able to be bridged in pairs, correct? If so, at what impedances have you ran them at under these conditions? What voltage do you recommend? Also, give me alot of technical babble about impedance, voltage, current, heat in coils, control over the coil/cone, etc. How would 8 of the 40.1's compare to something like 4 of the JBL/Crown amps (specifically, with the JBL's driving 4 ohm loads)? How about 8 of the 40.1's compared to 4 Hifonics XXV Sampsons? I'm looking for comparisons of current draw, SPL capability and the ability to NOT burn up coils. (Nick, I know you've explained some of these details to me before, but I've been away for awhile!) Thanks!

I'm always looking for ways to improve my daily driver. I am not an audiophile that can tell a whole lot about staging and imaging but I do listen to alot of music that reveals the best and/or worst of a system and I do love clean output at extreme listening levels. I have been pretty happy with my Morel tweeters and Peerless 6.5" mids with passive crossovers (my favorite amp on them to date was a US Amps USA-2000 running at only 8 ohms...extremely clean with a ton of headroom. Anyone have any USA-2000x's for sale? ) Anyway...my problems have been as follows: I burned the coils in the 200w rms Morels once already and had to rebuild them...and the two 6.5 Peerless mids cannot keep up with the tweeters. I have considered using two 6.5's per side because my crossovers have a 4ohm jumper built into them but I'm also considering switching to 8's. As you can tell, I listen to my system entirely too loud from time to time and I am tired of replacing damaged speakers. What do you guys think of the Aurum Cantus AC-200MKII? Here's an overview from Parts Express... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aurum Cantus midwoofers feature high-performance cone materials, long-excursion designs, and high quality construction. The AC-200MKII utilizes a special non-woven carbon fiber sandwich cone with foam core for light weight and extreme rigidity. A high-power motor offers exceptional cone control, high sensitivity, and substantial power handling. Specifications: *Power handling: 200 watts RMS/250 watts max *VCdia: 2" *Le: .62 mH *Impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 7.0 ohms *Frequency range: 26-3,500 Hz *Fs: 26 Hz *SPL: 90.0 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 2.47 cu. ft. *Qms: 4.41 *Qes: .19 *Qts: .18 *Xmax: 8 mm *Dimensions: A: 8-3/4", B: 7-1/4", C: 3-7/8". Multi-layer composite non-woven carbon fiber cone Heavy-duty chassis, vented pole and extended back plate Large magnet and high-power motor structure ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The 200 watts rms is very important to me for longevity and extreme dynamics, as well as the 8mm Xmax. Fs looks low enough to make a nice sub, is this too low for my application? What other specs stand out to you that would make this a good or bad choice for either an IB or sealed midbass in the car, and why? Thank you, Paul

Nice, guys, very nice indeed. I too like the cooling "pillars". "Solved problem with ADC"? What problem with ADC? One more question...what is the difference between the type of surround in the pic and the ones we are seeing on Soundsplinter drivers (appears to be a very tall rubber surround). I know looks can be deceiving, but the SS surround appears to have the capability of more excursion while keeping the max cone area possible.

Posted by ANeonRider "Either way, a 8" driver in a 2 way system is going to be very hard to implement well, due to frequency response." I guess it's hard to find an 8" that will play smoothly high enough for the tweeter to take over? People were already telling me to cross at 2khz because the 6.5's weren't great for higher midrange. I didn't want to cross the Morel tweeters that low for the sake of power handling.

Here's a link to my original thread on Termpro asking about the Peerless years ago... http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/...c;f=21;t=001404 I noticed they recommended the driver with the higher qts, stating that a qts of .29 is a little low for IB, so I chose the driver with a qts of .43 instead. (maybe I shouldn't have taken advice from a 'dingaling' but oh well...things worked out ok!) Anyway...now I see that the Aurum Cantus has a qts of .23, so is IB a bad choice in general for this driver? Plus I read that they are made in China. This just keeps getting better!