creatormass

I've heard of guys dropping 10,000 into one and not blowing it.

Depending on the coil configuration you have the resonant freq of that sub is 34.5 Hz or 35.1Hz, you'd be better off tuning the enclosure to that instead of 38Hz. That will make the enclosure more efficient and get more out of the power your giving it.

wow 30 views and nobody has a clue. I read the topic on the SPL option so I know you can't play music for extended periods of time, but I'm wondering about for 30 seconds at a time so I can do Bass Race. If I can't I'll have to look into different subs so I can do both SPL and Bass Race.

Got my t-shirt in today, pretty decent shirt for $10. Thanks

Okay thanks. I looked at kinetik prices on ebay... the hc1800 was going for about $200 shipped and the hc2400 was going for about $270 shipped. Can I run an hc2400 with a stock alternator? There shouldn't be any problems with the 2400. I'm currently running a yellow top and the 2400 off my stock alt without any issues.

Sounds great, I sent an order and I'll send another one when the site is updated.

You must be looking in the wrong place for prices on Kinetiks. I paid about 189.00 plus shipping for my yellow top, and the Kinetic 600 runs around 75.00 plus shipping. I was able to pick up a Kinetik 2400 for just over 220.00, thats almost 3 times more power storage than the yellow top. Check out some of the Ebay stores and find a Kinetik there, it's better than adding another yellow top.

At PartsExpress.com they sell a tester with the computer software called the "Dayton Woofer Tester", it cost's $99 and will give you the resonant freq of any speaker, among other things. I have someone helping me out with a new enclosure for next season and he was telling me that I need to know the resonant freq of the sub so I can properly adjust the tuning freq of the enclosure. The closer the enclosure's resonant freq is to the speaker's resonant freq will make the enclosure more efficient and get more db's out of it with less power. It's all something new to me, but this guy is one of the top competitors in the country in Street A, so he knows what he's talking about.

Anyone know how to figure out the resonant freq of the 10" BL's? I know they are supposed to be 40.3 Hz, but I had Fi tighten the suspension to handle more power on burps. How do I figure out the correct resonant freq without spending $100 on the Dayton woofer tester program? I had them built with the SPL option and the flatwind coils if that makes any difference.

Set your DMM for AC volts and check the voltage coming out of the speaker terminals on the amp. If the test leads are pointed you can just poke them through the insulation on the speaker wires. If your not showing any readings when your music is playing and the amp is powered on then it's an amp issue.

For headunit's Kenwood, it's the only brand I've never had a problem with Denon Amps: Rockford Power series and old school Punch and Power series Soundstream XXX's Subs: Rockford T series Power subs Fi's T3 Orion

for any normal usage the cheap ones will do fine. For working on some competition systems and system testing you'd need one with more options, but I don't think your worried about that yet. Check out places like Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes etc, they all sell cheap DMM's.

Only the cheaper or lower powered amps I've seen have built in fuses. When you get into the higher powered amps and have to use ANL style fuses they're too big to put on the amp itself, so they let you put it somewhere else. My front stage amp is rated for 60 amps, the Maxi size fuse is also a bit too big to fit on the side of the amp and still fit the end caps, so they have you put your own fuse on the wire.

If you have no dimming than I wouldn't worry about it. If you do end up with some dimming it might help to use a better battery like a Yellow Top, or a Kinetik. But like I said, if you have no problems then don't worry about it.

The main fuse is there to protect the wire from burning up your vehicle if it shorts, but it also protects amps from frying if there's a short. Not all amps have fuses built in, none of my amps have fuses on them.

2001 Chevy Blazer 4 Door Kenwood 532U HU Rockford Fanatic Q 3 way set up in front, custom kick panels. Rockford Fanatic Q 5.25" Separates in rear doors Rockford 851X for the front stage Rockford 451S for rear fill Rockford 1501bd for daily driver subs Rockford EPX2 for the sound processor Kicker 12" CVX sealed for daily 12" Orion WCC sub going in next week for daily system Yellow top under the hood, 0 Ga Big 3 done Kinetik 2400 in the rear All Stinger HPM series wire, fuses, and hardware For comps I run: Pair of 10" Fi BL's MA Audio HK4000D

Yeah, adding a fuse adds resistance, but if your not competing in SPL sound off's it's not going to make much of a difference in the current flow. For comps I remove all my fuses, but for driving around I'd say it's pretty stupid not to have the amps fused. I'd rather take the chance on frying a fuse rather than frying an amp. If you get into an accident the fuse by the battery will help protect your amps, it's not just there to help with a bad wiring install.

I have a 200 amp Excessive Amperage and at idle it sucks. It puts out 30 amps at idle compared to the stock alt that was putting out 60 amps at idle. At 2000 rpm it puts out the 200 amps it's supposed to, but at idle I need to rev the engine to keep the lights from dimming. Iraggi alts are supposed to put out higher amps at idle, so I'd say check them out, I wish I did. You can call Iraggi at 615-287-7991. Or check out their webpage at http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics

For some reason the link doesn't work, so here's the website info..... http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics

Kinetik recommends running 0 gauge power AND grounds from the front battery to the rear battery. You should have the 0 gauge Big 3 done before adding the second battery, and the HO Alt is also highly recommended before installing the second battery. Also, you should have a fuse on the power wire right before the battery in the rear. This is in addition to the fuse by the front battery. If you plan on running your system with the car off then you'll need a battery isolator. The only time I run mine off is for comps, so an isolator would be a bad idea. If you want an Iraggi alt then check out the Ebay site or call them. Iraggi Alts or call them at 615-287-7991

Ok, don't everyone respond at once

This is something you should have thought of before you bought your subs and amps. Poor system planning. Those subs might handle it. You really should have had them built to handle more power, instead of hoping they would handle it when you got them. I had my BL's built to handle a lot more power, but mine are for SPL burps only.

Definitely sounds like you need to upgrade the Big 3 wires. Also, what kind of alternator did you get? Do the lights dim only when your at idle, or when the rpm's are high too? It's possible your upgraded alt isn't that great. I got a 200 amp alt from Excessive Amperage, I thought it was pretty good. At idle it has a 30 amp output, compared to my stock one that has a 60 amp output. At higher rpm's the one from Excessive does put out 200 amps, compared to my stock 105 amp alt. But when I'm at idle my lights dim with the bass, I ripped it out til next season when I really need it. Using my stock alt does just fine. Probably because I've done the Big 3 upgrade using 0 gauge wire, also with the Yellow top. Yellow tops are great batteries for street applications, the Kinetiks are even better, but those are best with competitions where you need a high reserve. From what I've heard the Yellow Tops have a faster discharge rate than the Kinetiks. I'm not sure about the Powermaster batteries, nobody anywhere near me uses those.

I could build a box for my 10's that would make them louder than your 15, or your 15 could be louder if it's in the correct enclosure. You can't compare a couple subs and ask which is louder without actually testing each one in the correct enclosure.

Any idea about how to get an Fi T-shirt? I sent an email a while ago and told the shirts were gray with a black logo, but nobody responded with how to pay for them. I'm the only one running Fi's at the local comps so it would be nice to have a shirt for next seasons comps.