mjmarovi

tampa's not too far...still seems I am the only one reppin the Fort Myers area. not complainin, as central and east coast is definitely more youthful, not so much retiree haha

But honestly, I dont know many audio shops here. If I could get at least some reference, it would be great. Im leaning towards Kicker so far. personally not a huge fan of kicker mids/highs, speakers are very personal but I find their performance sub-par. what kind of budget are you looking at? MB Quart Polk CDT Hertz all four of those companies make some great component sets that are relatively inexpensive spend a bit more and you could be looking at Diamond Audio Image Dynamics Alpine Type X Pioneer Premier the list is really quite long for mids/highs try to find a shop or somewhere you can make general comparisons and get an idea of what you want to spend and what kind of sound you like. what vehicle is it and where do you plan on installing the speakers? amp for them or no?

I have checked out the 3800 before, I can tell you that Kinetik work like this....the larger the battery you get, the more amperage and ah you get per dollar. you can always try the classifieds section on this forum, or classifiedzz.com

just be sure to set gain correctly and not clip the woofers. 1700 watts will kill these? I plan on powering 4 x 12's with a 1500d at .5 ohm.....not a good idea eh? I have no experience with the X line, this is really an experiment and just to use till I save for BTL's or Nightshade V2's, whichever is readily available when I have the cash. I don't plan on ragging on the x12's that much, will probably get beat on the hardest during bassrace, 139.9 class though, so shouldn't have to come close to full board.

need to build a way bigger port, that's only ~4.7 inches of port per cubic foot of box area, 12-16 sq. in. is a generally a good range, 11 is the minimum and as long as you shave down sharp edges and round all the corners on the port, suits just fine. but your port def. needs to be larger, and a larger port needs to be longer as well to get same tuning, which in turn takes up more volume and more air space inside the box, taking away from actual box volume. You need to re-calculate..... If you'd like, give me your dimensions and I'll design a box for you, or one of us will. and I mean dimensions you actually want to use, I'm assuming you don't want to use all 60" of length...

you already replaced the batt? well easy, just get the 600 or 800 and hook it up to help you out now, and then use it in your new system under the hood as your starting battery. don't worry about resistance, all I was saying was that car audio batteries, high-end ones, like kinetiks, xspowermasters, batcaps they have crazy low resistance, and most other batteries, especially your stock type batts have higher resistances and don't charge at same rate which can make them a "crutch" in your electrical system. the two together will work just fine though, especially for what you are running right now....

it was my understanding they would still be 9" slugs...maybe I'm wrong though, but most of the changes I believe are in the voice coil and inner-workings of the motor, along with a slight change to the suspension. correct if I'm wrong Jacob as this is what I heard awhile ago. also correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are getting prototypes now, wouldn't be looking at ~3 months out on these rather than the next middle summer you suggested? not rushing you or anything, as I know the Z v2's will be here soon, but j/w, I wasn't expecting to see anything on these till at least February....

not use a car audio battery as your main starting battery? why cause they are so much better? LOL at sonic.....ideally you want all of your batteries to be the same, so like not to mix kinetiks with batcaps, or powermasters, or nsb's, or optima's, or any other battery. if you have that crap battery up front than your entire system is only as strong as that single battery since it is creating a higher resistance than "car audio" batteries would. I don't think you would struggle selling the hc600, but it seems your present battery isn't dead, and if you plan on adding the capacitor, what I am saying to do is get the battery instead, and use the smaller kinetik batt as a replacement for your starting battery on next vehicle, and then add the 2400 or w/e. I really hate seeing you spend 90 bucks on a cap that may not even solve your present situation (I don't see it doing so, if your alty can't keep present batt charged, it won't be able to keep the cap running with it.) for another 40 bucks you can have something to use in the future, or at least sell for 50-60 bucks easy on re-sale. Hard to sell that rf cap after use....

x2 :-) absolutely, I can see rockin the Fi lanyard and Team Sundown shirt no problem! haha

how much are you getting it for? a kinetik hc600 would do the trick for that system no problem. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20378_Kinetik_KHC600.aspx IMO you should go ahead and go for the 1400 or something now, and use it as the starting battery in your new setup/vehicle. The current battery you have can be slow charged and brought back to life just to throw back in when you switch vehicles. this way this small investment you have to make now wont be a complete waste like it would be with the cap. which even with that cap, for any amount of time playing your system it will still put stress on your battery and charging system.

All sounds pretty sweet! See how all this apparel is due to a great company with a sick logo? Remember me telling you how a sick logo always helps at SBN? haha I'm gonna have to get my hands on some of this apparel and accessories.

I just purchased 4 of them myself. Mine will be in an enclosure that will come out to ~7.2 cuft after port and displacement giving them 1.75 cuft each. chamber is shared, I have always seen better output in shared chambers. Enclosure is tuned to 31hz. It is same box I used for 2 15" Q's, and specs happen to come out to be good for 4 12's as well. I plan on using BTL's in the future, just slowly saving for the upgrade. Going beyond recommended size of enclosure will lower the power handling but increase the output. since you listen to a variety of music a tune ~33hz would probably suit you quite nicely. No need to do anything way low since none of those genres listed above have anything truly "low" in them.

not sure on kenwood amp, could be a number things, assuming install is all right, could be anything from a fuse to a capacitor. I understand you're on a budget. Yes there are def. better amps out there, but for that price, hard to find, even used. All maxxsonics amps except for the compeition series amplifiers are tested to push within 10% of their rated power or better at 14.4v. so ridding voltage is a biggie, with inexpensive amplifiers they are not near as efficient, and don't push nearly as much power after voltage drop as do better amplifiers. for the money, and for what you are using for subs I would say it will do just fine, go with the GPV if you like the looks, the 1610 will just have less power potential.

it is 1/2 ohm stable with proper electrical. of course I am assuming you are using it for daily use, not SPL, so I will say it is not recommended for daily, but a few guys do it with backed up electrical, like nice H/O alty and extra batt (s)

269 at woofersetc.com and 289 at onlinecarstereo.com that 254 is a good price, but if they don't actually have them, they might as well price them at 100 dollars.

so now we are looking at seeing an E line, SA line, Z v2 line, NSv2 line, and possibly a SPL monster line all in 2010? not to mention the new amplifiers! good stuff Jacob!

for your bass needs, it seems to me that doing something ported, like 2 15's would give you the output you are looking for. Fi Q's, Sundown Z15's, would be great for you. Matched with a 2000watt amp. Sundown Audio 2000d since you are already looking into sundown. the Z15's are on closeout, so a great deal there too, but get'em before they're gone. I would try and find a spot for a second set of momo's up front, or just put more power on that single set. As stated above, speakers in rear are unnecessary.

what did you think i would do? play music and narrate my guesstimation of the frequency? haha, my roommate is getting a camera soon so that I can take video, as I'm sure my cell phone will not suffice...

Fiberglassed in pillars....I should take a vid of them moving like little woofers, it's awesome! of course they are not too audible below that ~50 hz point, but still fun to watch them move!

never hurts to dampen every piece of metal in the car. depends on the vehicle on which spots are more important than others, but IMO it's best to just cover everything to start and not have to worry about it in the future, which is floor, roof, doors, everything. you can run quite a bit of power on speakers as long as it is clean. just have to realize the limits and use the volume knob wisely. they should handle that power no problem

as I already stated my crossover points on my mids change depending on what I am listening to. My tune for SQ which is mostly from the easy listening genre is much different than my daily driving which involves hip/hop, hard rock, metal, techno... I have already said the same thing to the OP....

polk momos are great sounding speakers. love them, actually on a sound board next to focals, I liked the momos hands down. the 100.4d should be perfect. RMS is kinda relative, that amp will be able to push those speakers to their limits, and then some. It really depends on how you eq them and how low you want to play on how much power they are going to handle. a good battery is def. a necessity in any system. I understand you don't want SPL, just musical, but what one person's version loud is may be completely different than mine or yours. what was your last system, and how did you feel it fed your hunger for volume?