mjmarovi

so I knew it was happening, and was in process of saving up for a custom valeo Ohio Generator alternator. current alty decided to crap on my today, so I need to order a new one this weekend. I don't have the 450 to dish out for the Ohio right now, and saw what seems to be a reputable company selling a 200 amp for 210 plus shipping on ebay. BNR alternators and starters? I would rather spend the money on a 160 amp higher quality alty than a 200 amp piece of junk. My experience in past with alternators is iraggi, ohio, green monster, and that's about it. Any input would be greatly appreciated thanks! right now battery bank consists of a single hc1400 and hc2000, and plan on doubling this...

Well, after I sold off all of my competition gear a few years ago I wanted to get loud again cheap. I modified a box I had 2 15" Fi Q's in and then 2 DC Lvl 4 XL's which netted me a 153 on the dash. Working at best buy at the time I was able to get a killer vendor deal on kicker product and went with 6 10" CVR's, changed the baffle on the box, and threw them on a ap3k. Damn was I impressed. Didn't have the authority in the lower range as the mechanical travel just wasn't there to move the air, but I really beat on'em with no issues and couldn't get over how close in volume they were to the 15's, never metered, but was pretty damn impressed. Now another story. I just purchased a 12" comp RT for my truck to use with a RFT500.1bdcp I found for a steal on ebay. Sub was bad out of the box....first time this ever happened to me. It barely vibrated enough just to feel it, I left it hooked up and went out that night, on the way home it burped real quick and then was done, even gave off a bit of a smell. I had a Treo 15" SSi sitting at home as well waiting to go in the car, so hooked it up just to be sure the amp I bought wasn't F'ed up. Sure enough it played great. I feel RF's power series amps are on another level than any amp kicker puts out, but on the woofer side kicker definitely wins the mainstream battle, just have to be aware quality control is not going to be the same as an SSA, Fi, AA, Sundown, etc. but design is good, and tough to beat per dollar when looking for entry level. Once you get to $300+/woofer I can't see spending the money just my .02 cents on that matter

Got another BMW guy car. What year is the car? Is it the M50 motor? No way you can own a BMW, especially an M3 and not do some peroformance mods! LOL Anyway, I've build and done some multi-driver door panels in my past, and listened to one in a certain F-250 from a Team Hybrid Audio member who won many a competition with his setup. First off, like //M5 said, you really need to make sure you deaden and strengthen those doors and panels. Honestly with any volume at all I don't see that panel working unless you reinforce it with fiberglass; what type of material is it made of? How strong are the baffles? For tuning, if in separate chambers, using the most forward driver for the mids and rest for mid-bass will work, but don't expect a spectacular stage. You can make a mid in the door work in a truck, in a car it's usually just to be loud. I highly recommend the kick-panel, which would be difficult in that car, or cutting into the footwell and using a metal grille. Doors will just be tough in any car, let alone a small car. With a ton of time tuning it though, you could probably get decent sound from at least the drivers seat. Time correction will just be crazy, and tweeter location will play a huge part as the mids in the doors will want to really lower the stage, especially if you are running more than one set at a time in the doors. It really just comes down to whats most important to you, to pull off a truly good SQ system in that car I'm afraid i would be recommending some not so cheap drivers, processing and amps are great though, not bad for "sitting around" lol.

Hey guys, been a long time since I've been around on the forum here. I've mainly been doing performance stuff on my car, but am bored again with my system in the truck. I have an 08' crew cab silverado and already had a custom box with 2 JL8w7's. Rear seat has been lifted 2" to accommodate larger boxes. I just picked up a DD m1c as I think that's the most powerful amp i'll be able to use without further upgrading my electrical system. I can build a box up to a a total of about 2.7 cubic feet, maybe 3.0 total absolutely maxing out space. I can fit 8's front facing, or if I downfire them I can fix up to 15" with up to 7.5" mounting depth. I'm looking for as loud as possibly in that space, don't care if it's 6 8's sealed, 1 15 ported, and also being able to hit low 30hz tones, that way I can always de-tune sub volume to run a decent SQ setup since I do have a nice set of HAT pro components run actively for mids/highs. Thanks in advance!

Yeah, it was, was able to build it to JL specs exactly and honestly it got down pretty damn good for a couple 8's. I think you're right, that's the route I'm going to take. How come you recommend the Icon over say..the Fi Q or Fi BL? I do think the BL may not hit the lows in the same fashion as the Q, but not sure about the icon. Thanks for your input BTW! Also considering the DC Lvl4, any thoughts on that? I'll be able to net probably 2.0 cubic feet after port and displacement, trying to tune at 30-32 hz.

I did great with Q's before, Frankie Rio was doing 160's with his back when he was running Fi...I know they are capable of some pretty impressive output, and especially on lower tones which is what I want. but I may actually be changing it up to go back to 2 15's as oppose to 6 10's, since down the road I would like to run much more and the new SP4's look so damn good!

Just sold my kicker 10's and 3k amp, and am looking to go to 6 bigger tens. I will be running either the Q's or BL's from fi, or still possibly some sundown tens. I will be running at 2/3 ohm nominal, and have narrowed my amp choices down to either the Sundown NS1, or the Stetsom 7ke. I used to be a part of Team Sundown so I know what the amps are capable of, and I know I will get every bit of 7k out of it, but what about the stetsom? how does it stack up? I already read a thread in their section about the single power/ground, so not too concerned about that. This will be a musical setup for bassrace and bass boxing, so not just talking burps here. I already have the electrical, kinetik hc1800, hc2000, and hc3800, and a DC power alty under the hood, may possibly look into a second alty after setup is installed and if I incur voltage issues. Thanks for any input in advance. Matt

Just finished reading through all of the threads above, and sounds like a great product that I will be investing in for sure, but a couple questions or concerns that I'm sure I am not and won't be the only person to ask: 1) How do these meters compare to say a Termlab meter? Accuracy, durability, what modes does the software offer? 2) Is there any competition format currently using SPL-Lab meters or is there anyone that may be switching over to them? I personally would to like to know if you can use it to say practice bassrace, bass boxing, etc..maybe a video going through the software and everything it offers would eliminate some of the questions? Regardless I'm very excited just reading about the bluetooth sensor! That is badASS!

Well that's good to know, I suppose one question that may arise soon as well that I just thought of.... Is it possible to run dual sensor from your android phone? This would honestly make my decision on going with the bluetooth or the USB. It would be cool if you could run...say a bass boxing or bassrace style competition with your phone, or tablet.

Not sure of budget, and does it have to be 600 specifically? there are a few options out there for amps rated down to 450 @4 ohms and are known to push 2krms at 1 ohm and even more below.. Treo Engineering comes to mind with a few different options in different price ranges for ya. Of course as said above sundown is always a great choice

Stefan's last post contained extremely useful information; especially the conclusion. for a thread asking about what amplifiers his amplifier compares to? absolutely not, food for thought for someone new in car audio sure, does it pertain to this thread? no...is it a pompous remark? LMAO no, it's some sad attempt to try and appear somewhat intelligent after making a fool of yourself. Amusing actually, and still not thought provoking at all, reading it was like listening to a 4th grader stumble though a book report intended for a middle school literature class that they could barely comprehend...oh BTW TO THE OP! do you find that a 3000 watt amp will not be much audible difference from 2500 useful to the question you asked? Feel free to answer honestly...LMAO Have a great night fellas!

I'm just going to ignore stefan from now on for your own sake, and If you'd like more help via PM feel free to message me, I apologize for all the crap that got on your thread. Trod, would you by chance be able to get the voltage and resistance that clamp was done at? Would be interesting to know... Glad I could help!

Either way, your still resorting to a rudimentary method for comparison. Pretty sure that's all he's asking for, is a basic comparison, like, what to expect? Is it worth doing? Why does it seem you are posting only to be negative and try to make yourself seem more intelligent, where you are actually doing just the opposite...still curious how you think comparing output of two amps on same load at assumingly same voltage is apples to oranges.... Bro he does it all the time, post bullshit at first then when you call him on it he is the expert. This could of been answered 8 post ago if you would actually try and help. First post was clear as day in what he needed to know. Mjmarovi to answer your question it would be in some one else's setup, every setup acts different. Just becuase someone has great success with a SAZ-3500d vs an IA40.1 doesnt mean you will and vice versa. I'm not asking anything? Thank's for pointing out about everyone's setup acts different though, as I failed to do so, but at least he's got some idea now LOL.

Either way, your still resorting to a rudimentary method for comparison. Pretty sure that's all he's asking for, is a basic comparison, like, what to expect? Is it worth doing? Why does it seem you are posting only to be negative and try to make yourself seem more intelligent, where you are actually doing just the opposite...still curious how you think comparing output of two amps on same load at assumingly same voltage is apples to oranges....

I take it as he heard his amp is capable of 5kw at .5 ohm, so assuming the .5 ohm output, at 1ohm would it push the same power as some of those amps he listed? Notice he didn't list 5kwrms amps, he listed 3k-3500 watt amps at 1ohm... He even stated in a later post that he heard the saz3500d pushed 4-5k at .5 ohm, which WOULD be a direct comparison to his original post stating the 5k he heard HIS amp put out at .5 ohm.... so I would say he is trying to figure out how much power his amp could put out at .5 ohm with proper electrical and what other amps would it compare to?

that really means nothing to me without knowing the voltage and impedance...

What makes you say that? Only asking for reasoning since I have had thoughts on picking up an M4a. I completely understand what you're asking, but unfortunately am not familiar enough with DD amps to give you an answer. I'm sure if you asked about Sundown or IA, or ZED, you would get more helpful posts... Not sure why ppl are saying apples and oranges and crap rather than actually posting something to help... Here's what I found on youtube, hope it helps!

Just curious, why did you sell your Kinetiks? Not to start any debate, but price aside I don't really know anyone who would honestly put any other batt above kinetik....They take abuse and put masses of power. glad everything is working out with the stingers though. And for daily driving, AH definitely does matter, AH can give you a damn good idea of how long that battery will be able to put out power. This is one of the instances that Kinetik batts really shine as they have very good AH/amp output ratio's. This is also why so many ppl can get away with running banks of optima's and deka's and so on, batts that you can find for less money and have good AH but not real high amp output.

If you do go bandpass, make sure port is not linear to the woofers, in other words I wouldn't recommend the armrest, go with the vertical option, it just generally seems to work better, woofers load more efficiently, couldn't tell you the exact science.

Also keep in mind with higher tones that usually opening up a window or door up front will hurt your midbass drivers since they are IB, and you are kinda taking that away. that's why your upper bass frequencies, probably closer to 60 and up go down. lots of rap is around 40 hz,... It depends on the strength of the system, on huge systems that's definitely not true as big systems have the ability to push on anything in a car including the windshield to try and push the air inside the vehicle out. On smaller systems that may be true because they simply aren't that loud to begin with, so need every bit of help just to make some noise and get something to "move" a little. To the OP: Definitely depends on vehicle, like everyone is saying, but the reason has to do with how much air your system is capable of moving. for example, SPL driven vehicles built for a "burp" is usually at higher frequencies where the woofers aren't moving much so the better the vehicle is sealed the louder the db's as the woofers have tons of motor force to pressurize the cabin. Whoever made the comment about woofers moving more, is also right, if you relieve pressure placed on an object that is moving, you are enabling that object to move more....that's just plain physics. Trucks: OP, you have a truck, I do too, and when the enlosure is in the cabin, the woofers are loading inside the cabin, so when you open your windows or doors (more the better) then you are giving your system more air to move and enabling them to move further. In a truck it will a much more dramatic change as opposed to a trunk system or cargo area SUV system where the woofers are loading in the rear of the vehicle and pushing air to the front. It's simply wherever the air has to move... but every truck, I mean every truck will be louder with windows/doors open.

Oh, one way to do it that I have seen as successful, would be to build a bandbass box with the ports firing through the rear deck, I have seen that work quite nicely. and IMO I'd use two aero ports if you decide to go that route, one for each 6x9 opening, or idealy custom fab your rear deck and do a larger single rectangular port.

It's all about how the woofers load and where the air is going to go. I personally have had many trunk systems, and the present system is my 3rd setup porting through the rear deck. I did not and would not recommend porting through the rear deck unless you face your subs forward into the cabin, and seal off the box from the trunk. If you don't do this, you will lose more than half of your output easily because the woofers will not load properly. The woofers will be exciting the air in the trunk, and the port will be firing into the car, they won't be working together. Best systems in the trunk are port and woofers facing backward, don't change anything unless your box is so big that you are choking the air trying to get from the trunk, around box, and into the cabin. bigjon has a towncar, he could also help you by chiming in.

Denim you're at the top of the search hits cause of this thread, this is the thread that shows up when you google it... I think through all the nonsense though, a couple posts have helped me out. thanks

I already mentioned efficiency, and have put that in half my posts in this thread asking about it, but no one seems to have any input or knowledge on which would be more efficient. Kjmass was the first person to mention anything about current draw. I appreciate you trying to help sencheezy, but honestly you haven't, all you've done is told me to use google, and if that's what all answers on this forum were, then the forum wouldn't be much help would it? and don't post some information like the deals on that amp without one example of who or when that amp was sold for that price, and just say google it. If you have no good input on the thread title, then don't put down a reply. And FYI I have already looked up as much info as possible before starting this thread on both amps, and even a cpl others. There really isn't much out there. And if you found some then why don't you post the info rather than telling me to go find it since I obviously haven't. No disrespect, my thread's just getting filled with nonsense.

good info, exactly what I wanted to know, I think the NS-1 will actually be too big for what I'm looking for. I'm thinking cause of my electrical, I may have to downgrade my amp selection to something down around the 6k level rather than the 7-8k level...unfortunately for now.... where have you seen sales on that amp for that price range? they are on the SSA store for 1215.00 If I could pick one up in that price range, they may end the dispute. I think I can handle doing what I would need to to insure good voltage.