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Posts posted by buickid
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Hmm, guess I'll be getting a couple more batteries. And some helper bags for the rear!
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Haha, I'm hoping it'll make sound...
And I'm wondering how long it'll take to go poof heh
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Have a couple SAZ-4500D heading my way. Playing around with my options. My BTL18 is quite happy on two SAZ-1500D, I wonder what would happen if I threw two 4500D at it? I plan on building a box tuned real low (~27Hz), tired of chasing numbers, want something that drops looooow.
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I could tell you live in Hawaii
Heh, how is this? Does it have anything to do with my profile saying "Location:Oahu, Hawaii"?
Edit: Or is it the tasty tasty SPAM!
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16 gauge it is
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Tru Technology S44 (2x200 @ 4 ohms) to a pair of DLS X-Program SA62 6.5" comps.
Speaker wire size recommendation?
Thanks!
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Do you guys take this into account (from the JL box building page):
The effective length of the port is found by adding an end correction factor. An end correction factor is necesary because more often than not, one wall of the port is also one wall of the enclosure and this wall extends beyond the end of the port thus effectively adding length to the port (remember, the driver can't "see" the length of the port, it can only go by what it "feels" is going on).
Calculating end factor may sound like it would be more trouble than it's worth, but it's actually quite simple. To calculate end correction factor, simply add one-half of h to the physical length you calculated above (L1 + L2).
I take this as meaning I subtract half of the port width from the length.
For example, my calculations calls for a 16.5 x 6.15 x 26.25" long port in order to tune to 33Hz. Does the physical port in the box then become 26.25 - 3.07= 23.18 inches long?
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How do most HUs hold up under high voltage, say 16V?
I'm guessing your wanting to run your amps and a separate battery bank on 16v? You planning on running a second alternator dedicated to audio?
Well, I have a project I'm working on. Using a car HU and some spare 6x9 Infinity Reference Series speakers that I have lying around to build a portable radio. Is it compact/light/best idea ever? Probably not, but I like tinkering with and building things, so its a fun little project. For power, I'm using a 12-cell Ni-MH pack. Each cell is supposed to be about 1.2V, but fully charged, the pack sits around 16.8V. It drops to 16V under a 1A load in about 1-2 min.
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How do most HUs hold up under high voltage, say 16V?
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I'm working on a little project where the only available power source is a 12 cell Ni-MH pack, starting at 16.8V fully charged, but dropping to 15-16V after some use. Would a HU run on this, or would it go up in smoke?
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Holy mother. Thats more amps then then I've ever heard about. x_X
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i dont see whats so great about bumbing anyway... Totally overrated.
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Simply put, the cap will do nothing for you. A battery will.
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Hey guys. I just picked up a new RE SX 15. Its going to be powered by a Sundown 1500D in a '08 Scion xB. I need help designing the box though. RE calls for 3 cu ft minimum, 4 cu ft optimal, and I would like to tune for 32Hz, sub firing up. The sub displaces 0.18 cu ft. The dimensions I have to build the box are 38.5"x18.5"x19". The pictures below should help to visualize.
If there is too much space there, I'd like to cut a couple inches off the height, and then if still too much room, a couple off the width (18.5").
Help needed!
~Trevor
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Hook a multimeter capable of measuring AC voltage to the RCA outs on the deck and play a -0dB sinewave. Turn the volume up until the meter reads 6V, and remember the volume number on the deck. Don't turn the deck up past that in the future.
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Alrighty, I guess I'll be going for the KLM. Great deal. :]
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I did a bit of searching, and it seems that a few people are against the KLM Copper Clad Aluminum cable. I plan on getting the 1/0 KLM cable for my Sundown 1500D for a 15ft run. KnuKonceptz claims that their 1/0 CCA will do fine as long as you're not running gobs of wattage. Anyone think otherwise?
Thanks,
Trevor
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Most likely not. Unless one is near the end of its life and isn't holding charge well, then it might start draining the other battery too.
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lol its a quote from an old video game that was (badly) translated from Japanese. It used to be a big internet meme.
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In A.D. 2101, war was beginning.
Captain: What happen ?
Mechanic: Somebody set up us the bomb.
Operator: We get signal.
Captain: What !
Operator: Main screen turn on.
Captain: It's you !!
CATS: How are you gentlemen !!
CATS: All your base are belong to us.
CATS: You are on the way to destruction.
Captain: What you say !!
CATS: You have no chance to survive make your time.
CATS: Ha ha ha ha ....
Operator: Captain !! *
Captain: Take off every 'ZIG'!!
Captain: You know what you doing.
Captain: Move 'ZIG'.
Captain: For great justice.
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I wonder what an asteroid hitting the earth would meter on the TL...
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Holy CPR Batman! This is a pretty old thread that you dug up just to say that?!
If people want to copy the woofers, they will find a way, just like anything else. :/
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sds contact
in Sound Deadening
Posted · Edited by SteveSan
Sent Don an e-mail 9 days ago, and a follow-up 4 days ago, no reply to either. When I ordered CLD tiles for my last vehicle, I had a reply within a day. The product was superb, along with the service. I have limited time to complete my build before things get crazy again, but I can't start until I get some deadening. I really want to go with SDS again because of my great experience with the product last time. Cash in hand, ready to play!
Edit: Just read the post about his overwhelming amount of e-mails, that makes sense. Hope he can make it all work out, hes got a fantastic product!
Edit2: Don pulls through with the great service I expected!