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RemixPinoY

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Posts posted by RemixPinoY

  5. Posted

    You're short on space.. Smaller is better.

    It would be going up front, I mean in terms of how well it will sit in the battery tray. I mean, batteries are heavy so I doubt it will move much as it is, but I just want to make sure a fraction of an inch here and there that its not going to slide around.

    What about a battery tie down kit?

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  6. Posted

    To the OP man if you think your worried try powering up a system with a 3000D LOL!! I have a supra so my electrical is similar to your SC, stock alt. is 110amps. Having a hard time as it is with everything set low low low. So yes man UPGRADE IF YOU CAN! And yeah I can already tell once I upgrade the stock alt and battery they'll be an improvement. Sometimes I notice I cannot get enough power any longer that I just have to stop playing my system because my subs will start quieting down from insufficient power which isn't good. So be sure to upgrade.

    And I'm with you on battery weight, trying to minimize anything I can if possible, I've heard that extra batteries make your alternator work harder which is bad. Is this true? But I'm guessing since many of you recommend getting more than one battery, an aftermarket one should be heavily built enough to handle the extra load right? Also to the OP have you ever considered running a smaller battery, like the ones they use for cars that track. The batteries that weight like 6-15 pounds, you could use that for your main for your car. And then the heavy fat battery you could put in the rear or front so that you won't gain too much mass.

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  8. Posted

    It looks like this basically.

    <a href="http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/RemixPinoY/?action=view&current=Picture6762.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/RemixPinoY/Picture6762.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    I had everything there taken out and had the box modded to fit 12's from the 10 inch kickers. And the amp that I had swapped for the sundown. I know it's not the best place to mount an amp, but from what I've heard in rattles it wouldn't matter if I put it anywhere else it seems. Not sure so tell me if I'm wrong. As far as rca cables I'll find out today or tomorrow. And I got it from SSaudio AKA Mark off the phone and he had it shipped to me.

    Also, so since my eletrical is pretty much stock in terms of my alternator, that is the reason why it will not go 2ohm stable right?

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  9. Posted

    wiring I believe is done?????????

    you dont know if you had it done or not?

    and your installer should know about this kinda stuff. if not get a new one.

    110 amp alt wont cut it. and it kinda seems like you might be trying to run that amp on a OEM system with like 10 gauge wiring kit or somthing

    yeah that amp isnt a joke its the real deal its no joke you need thick wire, an alt, and multiple batteries

    lol I have aftermarket wiring for sure, just don't know if it's exactly 0 gauge, I will ask. And yeah I know 110 won't cut it thats why gains are not up, but what I want to know is the ohm stability. Is it only going to do 1ohm if I have a bigger alt and more juice going to it? And do I seriously need multiple batteries??!?!?!?? I talked to Scott and it didn't seem like I would of needed very much, man...

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  10. Posted

    So what do you think, is this amp just very power hungry? If I don't have my alt. upgraded will it just die off in terms of stability at 1omhs? My stock alt. is at 110volts if I recall, and I do plan to upgrade probably around 250-300, overkill I know but I just want to be sure I never have any issues anymore. I have an interstate battery but I guess I need something better like an oddesy.

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  11. Posted

    That amp should be stable down to at least 1 ohm. If its going into protection, check your electrical system. Would you mind listing any upgrades/modifications to your electrical? A 3kw amp is going to require a bit of beefing up. As far as the rattling goes, where and how is the amp mounted? As far as your gains go, they should be set by playing a roughly 50Hz sine, with the HU turned up just below IT's distortion, then turn the 3000D's gain up until it hits distortion, and back it off a teensy bit

    What Steve said.... What's your electrical upgrades , i.e. : Batts, Alts, Wiring?

    The 3000 pullls a **itload of power. Are you supplying enough power to feed it enough juice?

    Just one strong battery, wiring I believe is done. Everything except the alt. has been done. I do plan to upgrade but as now not yet, the lights are fine while driving it's just at idle they dim just a bit. Could that be my issue? Is this amp just very very power hungry? If I do upgrade my alt and still have issues is there anyway I can rma this amp as far as I know I don't recall any warranty, I'll read up on that right now.

    And what about the amp noise, driving me nuts!

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  12. Posted

    I have this head unit http://www.nextag.com/pioneer-7900 Not that one exactly but the one lower than that, it didn't come with USB. Only feature I recall it did not come with. I'll have to ask my installer tomorrow what the volts are, but the amp is giving me enough power for my needs at 4ohms but I just want to find out if it's bad or not in case I ever go with more bass.

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  13. Posted

    well that amp will run at very low ohm loads you may try turning down the gains on the amp I know mine makes a buzzing type of noise when its at a straight clip

    But the amp goes into protection at 2ohms... And he has it at 1/2 way up on the gain with the subs at 4omhs. So is it just something he missed or is the amp just not cut out for 2omhs but can do 1omhs? That sounds wrong though if true. And as I read on forums it says to add dynamat in the amp and rubber washers and etc although I don't think it will fix the problem.

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  14. Posted

    Hey everyone I'm, having issues right now with my amp. I don't know too much about wiring and etc but my installer says that the amp I have isn't stable at 2ohm's and won't try 1ohm for fear of blowing the amp. It's stable at 4ohms but thats it, so right I have no idea what to do about it. Is the amp just bad? I ordered it almost two months ago but just installed it today and forgot to even see if I had a warranty when purchasing. Also the amp as it is now is pushing two AA havoc 12's in a sealed box and the amp is just rattling BAD. Like real real bad were it's so annoying and loud that everyone can hear it. So whats going on? Is this amp just bad in both it's stability and metal casing? Please I need help.... Thanks!

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  16. Posted

    You should be fine with that airspace. You will lose a little punch but the lows will be extended. It depends on the music you listen to as to whether you will like it or not.

    Polyfill will not reduce airspace. Use solid wood. IE put a divider somewhere so that it can be removed later on if you want the full 3 cubes back.

    Ahh I see thanks! I like listening to classics like the beatles, I like some rock and metal, hip hop, laid back hip hop. Basically everything, so I'm hoping with this sealed set up that lighter stuff will be nice and tight sounding and if I ever need more bass for the rap and what not I have my 3000d to take care of that. So okay I'll take to my installer about getting it as close as possible to recommended air space if I don't like it. Because I know it'll be a bit bigger than needed.

    By the way has anyone ever added a removable beauty board? I'm redoing my box as you see in the picture to the point where the floor and panels I had on the side of the box will be removed for my trunk space. And I'll have a flat board put on top of this to flush the box to height with everything else. And I guess if I need more space if I'm traveling I can remove the side panels to fit back packs and bags and etc, anyone done this before?

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  17. Posted

    Alright I got the two subs going back into my old box which is being rebuilt right now. We've guessed that it's internal displacement is about 3.0 to 3.4 cubic net. So with the two subs taking up about .34 cubic net. Both subs will have around 2.66-3.1 for total air displacement. I know it's a bit out of the recommended spec of around 1-1.2 cubic net. But will it be really really off in terms of how it should sound sealed up?

    And if I did have to downsize what can I do with my box to downsize it's total internal air volume? Would adding material make any difference? I've been told pollyfill could do that and make the set up sound nicer, but I thought the pollyfill would only make the subs work as if it were in a larger enclosure? Is there anything I can do to correct the air volume?

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  18. Posted

    ok ill try these settings tomm hopefully. thank you for your advice. but one thing i was also thinkin is maybe it could be the subs? maybe? i mean it was working with the other amp but when i wired it up to this one it wasnt working so i mean maybe the hifonics doesnt support the way its wired??? i dont know this probably sounds really stupid... thanks for advice

    Probably wired wrong.

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  19. Posted

    Is it possible to get a sticky started for the recommended box specs for the current offerings? I was hoping to get a 15" but I'm not going to be able to fit a 4 cube box in my trunk and leave enough room for anything. :( So I need to know box specs for a 12" havoc please :boobies:

    I second this!

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  20. Posted

    OK... cant seem to find it in my cursory reading of the post, but is the current box sealed? You can do 2.8 cuft after port and driver for ported tuned to 33Hz for the pair of them (just had a dealer do it and absolutely loved the setup). Nice and tight, flat response, from a rather small package.

    Or sealed, I would lean towards the smaller side with 2.2 cuft before driver displacement. You can always add a littel polyfill if you feel the Qtc needs to go down more... although its already low.

    Between the two Im now interested in trying the smaller ported setup (one of my employees said he will gladly swap out to test it). Given how happy the dealer and customer were with it... sounds like a solid small setup.

    Thanks,

    Scott

    It's sealed right now around 3.0-3.2 cubes. Really 2.8 for two 12's ported wow small box haha, so it's pretty flat response? So it would be pretty similar to a sealed enclosure I take it + the extra boom. I'm debating so much about sealed and ported. To top it all off my shop sucks, been 4 months and giving me so much BS on completion on all this. Is that 2.2 for just one driver or is that for two? And could you fill me in on QTC, not too knowledgeable in that aspect. I'm guessing it's the frequency responses spiking in my car?

    Hmm now you got me interested in ported, always thought I'd need at least 4 cubes if not more, but if 2.8 can pull it off I may go with that if possible...

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  21. Posted · Edited by RemixPinoY

    2 12s will give you a lot more bass. If you can, I'd go for it. Why not just keep the 1400 watt amp and get 2 Q12s?

    I'm still confused with amps and wiring, I thought I'd need 2000 watts to power these subs? 1000 watts a piece per sub right? Wouldn't 1400 be underpowering them at 700 watts a piece at best?

    You don't need a kW to power a Q.

    When I auditioned one, 700W was perfect...

    Or should I look for an amp that can provide more power and set the gain at 75 percent and what not so the amp doesn't overwork itself.
    The amp works the same whether or not the gain setting is set at full, or barely turned.

    JIMJ- so if 700W is enough for a 12Q why would my US AMPS AX600DE ( which Flakko says will put out 800W ) not be enough? just curious. sorry in advance for hi-jacking the thread.

    After talking to Scott, 700 watts should be fine, it's not too bad, it won't get it as loud as it can go. But it will work fine without any issues.

    Anyway guys got my Havocs, and my sundown amp soo, still debating on final displacement. Do I keep my 3-3.2 cubic net box or am I better off downsizing it? If two havocs are perfect at 2.4 cubic net, havocs should be too???

    Or here,let me say this, is there any advantage with going smaller like 2.2-2.6 cubic net over my current 3.0-3.2 cubic net box or will it be a disadvantage? Or is my 3.2 cubic net box the best as it is now? And with the subs inside which take what .1 cubic net a piece it's going to be 2.8-3.0 for total displacement correct?

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  24. Posted

    I don't think you'll be able to fit 2 ported 12s in your supra. That's 4 cu ft plus port displacement. You'll have a pretty big box.

    Ya I can't, well I could but then I'd have a useless trunk really. So I got my 3000d in the mail, I am going to run two batteries, will my stock 100 amp alt be okay with two batteries to power a 3000d, 2 12's, plus a RF 400 watt amp?

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  25. Posted

    Like said above not too many people have experience with these subs. Im not a big fan of sealed boxes i think youd be much happier with a ported box tuned low 28-32hz

    But if you got the 12"s 3 cubes should be fine.

    Hmm I'm still debating, I've never heard a great system in ported form, I've only experienced those sony subs and etc. And I'm still not sure how a sealed enclosure would really stack against a ported one if both were made up of quality components. Anyway I'm leaning more toward SQ than SPL, and I'd like to make the smallest enclosure possible for my car since my Supra doesn't have a deep trunk being it's a sports car hatch. So sealed makes much more sense right? I love ported enclosures but for my car I don't think it'll make too much sense, especially since it's small and 2 12's pushing 3000 watts in a sports car would overkill my front stage I think anyway. Sealed I think I'll get by, and I listen to a lot of music not just hip hop so I want to have best of both worlds. I think my 3000 watts will make up for the inefficiency of my sealed enclosure versus a lower powered ported enclosure.

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