RemixPinoY

By the way forgot to ask, is the address to ship anything damaged and what not the same as FI's address for their money orders?

Hi who can I contact about my issue? Do I just call Scott or are there others that are taking care of the AA sector besides him that I should be talking to?

lol alright Scott it is then X_X

You can get d1's just call in or email and request for them. I have d1's for my 12 havoc's.

It would be going up front, I mean in terms of how well it will sit in the battery tray. I mean, batteries are heavy so I doubt it will move much as it is, but I just want to make sure a fraction of an inch here and there that its not going to slide around. What about a battery tie down kit?

To the OP man if you think your worried try powering up a system with a 3000D LOL!! I have a supra so my electrical is similar to your SC, stock alt. is 110amps. Having a hard time as it is with everything set low low low. So yes man UPGRADE IF YOU CAN! And yeah I can already tell once I upgrade the stock alt and battery they'll be an improvement. Sometimes I notice I cannot get enough power any longer that I just have to stop playing my system because my subs will start quieting down from insufficient power which isn't good. So be sure to upgrade. And I'm with you on battery weight, trying to minimize anything I can if possible, I've heard that extra batteries make your alternator work harder which is bad. Is this true? But I'm guessing since many of you recommend getting more than one battery, an aftermarket one should be heavily built enough to handle the extra load right? Also to the OP have you ever considered running a smaller battery, like the ones they use for cars that track. The batteries that weight like 6-15 pounds, you could use that for your main for your car. And then the heavy fat battery you could put in the rear or front so that you won't gain too much mass.

Glad to know I shouldn't be worried about my 3000D then, almost had me worried but happy to know they run cool already. Thanks Sundown!

Hey everyone I'm, having issues right now with my amp. I don't know too much about wiring and etc but my installer says that the amp I have isn't stable at 2ohm's and won't try 1ohm for fear of blowing the amp. It's stable at 4ohms but thats it, so right I have no idea what to do about it. Is the amp just bad? I ordered it almost two months ago but just installed it today and forgot to even see if I had a warranty when purchasing. Also the amp as it is now is pushing two AA havoc 12's in a sealed box and the amp is just rattling BAD. Like real real bad were it's so annoying and loud that everyone can hear it. So whats going on? Is this amp just bad in both it's stability and metal casing? Please I need help.... Thanks!

It looks like this basically. <a href="http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/RemixPinoY/?action=view&current=Picture6762.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/RemixPinoY/Picture6762.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I had everything there taken out and had the box modded to fit 12's from the 10 inch kickers. And the amp that I had swapped for the sundown. I know it's not the best place to mount an amp, but from what I've heard in rattles it wouldn't matter if I put it anywhere else it seems. Not sure so tell me if I'm wrong. As far as rca cables I'll find out today or tomorrow. And I got it from SSaudio AKA Mark off the phone and he had it shipped to me. Also, so since my eletrical is pretty much stock in terms of my alternator, that is the reason why it will not go 2ohm stable right?

yeah that amp isnt a joke its the real deal its no joke you need thick wire, an alt, and multiple batteries lol I have aftermarket wiring for sure, just don't know if it's exactly 0 gauge, I will ask. And yeah I know 110 won't cut it thats why gains are not up, but what I want to know is the ohm stability. Is it only going to do 1ohm if I have a bigger alt and more juice going to it? And do I seriously need multiple batteries??!?!?!?? I talked to Scott and it didn't seem like I would of needed very much, man...

So what do you think, is this amp just very power hungry? If I don't have my alt. upgraded will it just die off in terms of stability at 1omhs? My stock alt. is at 110volts if I recall, and I do plan to upgrade probably around 250-300, overkill I know but I just want to be sure I never have any issues anymore. I have an interstate battery but I guess I need something better like an oddesy.

What Steve said.... What's your electrical upgrades , i.e. : Batts, Alts, Wiring? The 3000 pullls a **itload of power. Are you supplying enough power to feed it enough juice? Just one strong battery, wiring I believe is done. Everything except the alt. has been done. I do plan to upgrade but as now not yet, the lights are fine while driving it's just at idle they dim just a bit. Could that be my issue? Is this amp just very very power hungry? If I do upgrade my alt and still have issues is there anyway I can rma this amp as far as I know I don't recall any warranty, I'll read up on that right now. And what about the amp noise, driving me nuts!

I have this head unit http://www.nextag.com/pioneer-7900 Not that one exactly but the one lower than that, it didn't come with USB. Only feature I recall it did not come with. I'll have to ask my installer tomorrow what the volts are, but the amp is giving me enough power for my needs at 4ohms but I just want to find out if it's bad or not in case I ever go with more bass.

But the amp goes into protection at 2ohms... And he has it at 1/2 way up on the gain with the subs at 4omhs. So is it just something he missed or is the amp just not cut out for 2omhs but can do 1omhs? That sounds wrong though if true. And as I read on forums it says to add dynamat in the amp and rubber washers and etc although I don't think it will fix the problem.

How so? I thought they just pushed more power and were built with more tolerance in mind.

Ahh I see thanks! I like listening to classics like the beatles, I like some rock and metal, hip hop, laid back hip hop. Basically everything, so I'm hoping with this sealed set up that lighter stuff will be nice and tight sounding and if I ever need more bass for the rap and what not I have my 3000d to take care of that. So okay I'll take to my installer about getting it as close as possible to recommended air space if I don't like it. Because I know it'll be a bit bigger than needed. By the way has anyone ever added a removable beauty board? I'm redoing my box as you see in the picture to the point where the floor and panels I had on the side of the box will be removed for my trunk space. And I'll have a flat board put on top of this to flush the box to height with everything else. And I guess if I need more space if I'm traveling I can remove the side panels to fit back packs and bags and etc, anyone done this before?

Hello everyone, well after sitting in the FI forum, I've gotten a good deal recently for the Ascendant audio line up, which I've heard is very similar to the fi q of which I originally wanted for less than that of a Q. Both subs are now pretty much the same price, Havocs being cheaper slightly. So I ask you all if any of you have heard the differences between the Q and the Havor in terms of sound. I've talked to a few people and Scott regarding the two subs, and from what I understand is this. The Havoc was made to handle more power out of the box compared to a Q with no BP option, they were made to handle more power so they should be able to handle a bit more abuse. They are both SQ subs, and should sound identical. So being identical in terms of sound, what would the enclosure size recommendations be for the subs? I plan to run a sealed fiberglass/MDF wood enclosure, and the Q 12's need about 1.2-1.3 cubic net as recommended by most people, are the havocs the same? How do the Havocs do in sealed enclosures? And in a sealed enclosure, should I have each sub split off into there own enclosure? As in separate chambers with a box that totals 2.4-2.6 cubic net? Or am I better off having them share the same air space? Also I'm going to order a sundown 1500d as many have recommended, I know havocs are about 1250rms watts, but Scott told me that the sundown amp should be able to power 2 havoc 12's nicely around 750-900 watts a piece . I plan to make this system loud in terms of power while still retaining good sound quality. My car is a Toyota Supra hatchback, so I don't necessarily need too much power for these subs as I'm not a big bass head, but would like more power than my last set up. So will this sundown amp be plenty for these subs? Will they be too underpowered? Scott asures me, as does others but I just want to make sure haha I'm always worrying. I may eventually upgrade the amp to a larger amp in the future if I feel that it isn't enough for my needs. Also for two subs and one amp to work, I will need them to be D1's right? This is my set up I had pulled out, I wasn't happy with the box, and it wasn't built as well as it could of been. Two kicker cvr 10's, with a gravity 2 channel 1400 watt amp. Kickers sounded nice, but the box they made was 3.2 cubic feet, too big imo for these two 10's. If I was going for true true sound quality it makes sense as the responses were flat, but I think it was still too big even if I wanted flat responses and it lacked punch. I also want to save more weight if I can, and have more storage space. I know I know funny how I want this in a sports car haha. Anyway I'm sure this system will beat this one right in terms of sound quality and power? Please give me any advice you all can recommend. Also what wiring should I request my shop use? I think I have 4 gauge for my amp to my subs, and I have one battery right now, an interstate but it's not dry cell. And I still have my stock alt thats around 90amps and I have a RF cap 2.5 farad. Thanks all!!

Alright I got the two subs going back into my old box which is being rebuilt right now. We've guessed that it's internal displacement is about 3.0 to 3.4 cubic net. So with the two subs taking up about .34 cubic net. Both subs will have around 2.66-3.1 for total air displacement. I know it's a bit out of the recommended spec of around 1-1.2 cubic net. But will it be really really off in terms of how it should sound sealed up? And if I did have to downsize what can I do with my box to downsize it's total internal air volume? Would adding material make any difference? I've been told pollyfill could do that and make the set up sound nicer, but I thought the pollyfill would only make the subs work as if it were in a larger enclosure? Is there anything I can do to correct the air volume?

Probably wired wrong.

I second this!

It's sealed right now around 3.0-3.2 cubes. Really 2.8 for two 12's ported wow small box haha, so it's pretty flat response? So it would be pretty similar to a sealed enclosure I take it + the extra boom. I'm debating so much about sealed and ported. To top it all off my shop sucks, been 4 months and giving me so much BS on completion on all this. Is that 2.2 for just one driver or is that for two? And could you fill me in on QTC, not too knowledgeable in that aspect. I'm guessing it's the frequency responses spiking in my car? Hmm now you got me interested in ported, always thought I'd need at least 4 cubes if not more, but if 2.8 can pull it off I may go with that if possible...

Hello all, anyway after months of being disappointed with my expectations of my audio shops work. I am having my box redone, and unfortunately I have to spend more money to fix there damn mistakes. Oh well, anyway I am wondering if there really is a big difference between two 10 fi q's or two 12 fi q's. I currently have a fiberglass enclosure for the tops and I can have them modified to fit 12's but that would cost more money. If two 10's can closely copy the 12's in everything I'd rather stick with the 10's. My current set up in my Supra features two Kicker CVR 10's and a Gravity 2 channel amp that says it pushes out 1400 watts more likely than not probably about a thousand rms. It's in a 3.2 cubic foot box which I believe is way too big for these cvr's, there just 10's. I am unhappy with how it sounds, some songs sound good, others sound weak. And the kickers there good speakers, but I have them maxed out and am not happy with the bass amount I am receiving it's just uninspiring, and I don't want to go ported especially since my car is a hatchback and is too small to sufficiently house one well. So Basically what I'm asking is this, are two 10's sufficient in terms of power and sound and etc in a sealed enclosure versus the 12's? Is there a noticeable difference between the two? I know the 12's will be able to edge out somewhat in lower notes but are 10's good enough? Or is the price increase to mod my box worth going with the 12's? I could also fit a single 15, but I've heard many people saying don't go larger than 15's since 15's aren't very "musical" I'm sure many will disagree. Also I'm thinking about going with one subwoofer for now and buying another down the road so I can invest in the amp or amps. Would 1 10 or 12 inch Q really rock my car with 900-1000watts? Would it be better than my cvrs in every way except price lol? Also what do you all recommend for a sealed set up if I did go with 12's, I know FI recommends about 1.2 cubic feet, I want this set up to sound very clean and powerful. My installers made my current box 3.2 cubic feet, way too big for what I have. But they believe in making boxes larger than recommended in order to give the subwoofers more air to make more boom. I don't know about that because I think it just goes against the subwoofers efficient range of air space needed. Am I right or am I wrong? Or would I be better off going slightly larger in box space for these subwoofers to attain more "bass". I listen to everything, from hip hop, rock, jazz, and etc. So it must be powerful yet clean thats why I prefer sealed over ported. So will Fi Q's fit the bill, or should i look into the bl series, or will the SSD's satisfy me enough? Also I am a noob with wiring and ohm's and don't know exactly which one I need. And does FI carry a phone number I could possibly contact them with in regards to ordering a subwoofer or two? Also I need an amp(s) for all this. I'd prefer to just get a single amp for space reasons but seeing how hard it is to find a decent amp to do more than 2000watts rms that is affordable I think I may be better of going with dual amps. I've been looking and are kicker .750's good enough? They average 900 watts rms from what I've looked at and they seem good enough to power the subs. So if anyone can, please recommend me amps that have good sound quality and are reliable for a daily. Thanks all! Edmund

I'm still confused with amps and wiring, I thought I'd need 2000 watts to power these subs? 1000 watts a piece per sub right? Wouldn't 1400 be underpowering them at 700 watts a piece at best? You don't need a kW to power a Q. When I auditioned one, 700W was perfect... The amp works the same whether or not the gain setting is set at full, or barely turned.JIMJ- so if 700W is enough for a 12Q why would my US AMPS AX600DE ( which Flakko says will put out 800W ) not be enough? just curious. sorry in advance for hi-jacking the thread. After talking to Scott, 700 watts should be fine, it's not too bad, it won't get it as loud as it can go. But it will work fine without any issues. Anyway guys got my Havocs, and my sundown amp soo, still debating on final displacement. Do I keep my 3-3.2 cubic net box or am I better off downsizing it? If two havocs are perfect at 2.4 cubic net, havocs should be too??? Or here,let me say this, is there any advantage with going smaller like 2.2-2.6 cubic net over my current 3.0-3.2 cubic net box or will it be a disadvantage? Or is my 3.2 cubic net box the best as it is now? And with the subs inside which take what .1 cubic net a piece it's going to be 2.8-3.0 for total displacement correct?

Your probably going to have to go used.

I got a 3000d, going to power 2 havoc 12's, will see how that is, it's going to be sealed enclosure, 2-3 cubes.