Jump to content

RemixPinoY

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    54

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by RemixPinoY

  1. Posted

    basically the advantage to having a seperation in the boxes is if one blows the ither one is in the same box. If they share airspace then if one blows its in double the size box ad its more likely to bottom out. I would just make them in the same airspace. 3.0 cubes should be nice.

    Alright so I'll just let them share the same air space, and isn't 3 cubes kind of too much? My previous kicker 10's were in a 3.2 and I didn't like how they did not seem to produce much of an impact. They were just utterly weak and the seemed to be in a box way too large for them. It only made sense if I was looking for a flat sound quality response that wasn't too powerful, but I'm looking into a loud system that still retains some sound quality at where the subs perform best at. And looking at havoc specs it says largest recommended is 1.1 cubes, which is confusing me since fi Q's use 1.5 max. And with the fi q's they like to have 1.2 cubic feet a piece or so recommended by people.

    So I'm looking for the sweet spot of the havocs, which I have no clue what that is.

    0

  2. Posted

    Well ordered sundown 3000d amp, with two d1 havoc 12's. But the AA forum is dead, anyone care to help me out here on the beloved Fi forum on what my enclosure size should be with these two 12's sealed? Also if the subs should share the air space or should be built in there own boxes?

    0

  3. Posted · Edited by RemixPinoY

    The 1500D being $599 and the 1000D being only $399 means the 1000D costs less per watt.

    So why would someone get the 1500 over the 1000?

    To get that extra power thats needed without having to overpower what ever they need, buy two amps making a more complicated install, strain there electrical even more, and spending more money overall.

    0

  4. Posted

    why do you want two sets of comps? get a good set for the front, feed them good clean power and you'll be laughing.

    Yeah.. I was kinda looking to the RE XXX's. Would a pair of those be a good choice? Also, what kind of power can they handle?

    Usually in a sound quality set up, you don't want to hear the rear speakers interfere with your fronts. So usually people recommend either running nothing in the rear, or an inexpensive set of quality speakers if you must for your rear passengers. But if you must run rears like I do, just tune them power wise low enough so you don't hear them, but loud enough for the others to enjoy. Coaxial speakers in the rear are fine as well, just get one set of components for the fronts.

    0

  5. Posted · Edited by RemixPinoY

    You didn't really ask questions hardly:

    -Same enclosure no divider is my recommendation for two subs.

    -2 DVC-D1 will allow you a 1ohm final load, but there are other ways of doing that as well. For a 1500d that is what I would do.

    I thought I did :shrug: Anyway ordered my amp, the 3000d, and asked for D1's instead of the D2's that usually ship to retail.

    As for enclosure, you recommend no divider? I hear from various people put dividers and others who do not, whats the difference? And anyway, in a sealed enclosure where do these subs like to be at? I saw that box recommendations for one sealed is .6-1.1, so I guess they take less air than the Q's do since Q's can max at 1.5 even though there similar subs.

    SO what would be optimal for two of them to be in there best range of play? 2 cubic net combined after displacement? I'm guessing displacement of each sub is 1.2 cubic net in the box for the room they take? Sorry I"m a noob.

    0

  7. Posted

    Not so sure that many people have heard the new Havoc's which is why your post is lacking replies.

    Ya I just realized that now hah, but from what I heard havocs should sound similar to Q's.

    0

  8. Posted

    Alright cool, I'll talk to Scott and see what he thinks. I know either way my system will be god like!

    Well anyway guys, since posting here I decided havocs 12 D1's for sure, going to couple it with a sundown 3000d sound good? I posted in the AA section, it's dead no replies..... Someone help me lol.

    0

  9. Posted

    Hello everyone, well after sitting in the FI forum, I've gotten a good deal recently for the Ascendant audio line up, which I've heard is very similar to the fi q of which I originally wanted for less than that of a Q. Both subs are now pretty much the same price, Havocs being cheaper slightly.

    So I ask you all if any of you have heard the differences between the Q and the Havor in terms of sound. I've talked to a few people and Scott regarding the two subs, and from what I understand is this. The Havoc was made to handle more power out of the box compared to a Q with no BP option, they were made to handle more power so they should be able to handle a bit more abuse. They are both SQ subs, and should sound identical. So being identical in terms of sound, what would the enclosure size recommendations be for the subs? I plan to run a sealed fiberglass/MDF wood enclosure, and the Q 12's need about 1.2-1.3 cubic net as recommended by most people, are the havocs the same? How do the Havocs do in sealed enclosures? And in a sealed enclosure, should I have each sub split off into there own enclosure? As in separate chambers with a box that totals 2.4-2.6 cubic net? Or am I better off having them share the same air space?

    Also I'm going to order a sundown 1500d as many have recommended, I know havocs are about 1250rms watts, but Scott told me that the sundown amp should be able to power 2 havoc 12's nicely around 750-900 watts a piece . I plan to make this system loud in terms of power while still retaining good sound quality. My car is a Toyota Supra hatchback, so I don't necessarily need too much power for these subs as I'm not a big bass head, but would like more power than my last set up. So will this sundown amp be plenty for these subs? Will they be too underpowered? Scott asures me, as does others but I just want to make sure haha I'm always worrying. I may eventually upgrade the amp to a larger amp in the future if I feel that it isn't enough for my needs. Also for two subs and one amp to work, I will need them to be D1's right?

    Picture6762.jpg

    This is my set up I had pulled out, I wasn't happy with the box, and it wasn't built as well as it could of been. Two kicker cvr 10's, with a gravity 2 channel 1400 watt amp. Kickers sounded nice, but the box they made was 3.2 cubic feet, too big imo for these two 10's. If I was going for true true sound quality it makes sense as the responses were flat, but I think it was still too big even if I wanted flat responses and it lacked punch. I also want to save more weight if I can, and have more storage space. I know I know funny how I want this in a sports car haha. Anyway I'm sure this system will beat this one right in terms of sound quality and power? Please give me any advice you all can recommend. Also what wiring should I request my shop use? I think I have 4 gauge for my amp to my subs, and I have one battery right now, an interstate but it's not dry cell. And I still have my stock alt thats around 90amps and I have a RF cap 2.5 farad.

    Thanks all!! :thanx:

    0

  11. Posted

    very similar man, only difference will really be in the install. if you were doing an SPL setup and were looking at high powered subs then maybe, but the Q is the SQ line from Fi and AA is more if an SQ sub I believe so doesn't matter. IMO just go with the Fi Q's and be done with it you will be amazed by what you hear. Sundown + Fi = Incredible bass

    Hmmm true, but the AA I can get cheaper than the Q by 50 bucks, so thats whats making it interesting. Hmmm hmmm hmm...

    0

  13. Posted

    yes you are correct, Fi specs for that sub are .8 -1.5 cuft sealed, so 1.3 sounds just about perfect

    Crap now I've seen the Havoc line up from AA, is it comparable to the Q? I'm still searching for ideas on subs, and the havoc seems comparable to the Q. Which is better and why? And if the havoc were the better sub, what would the enclosure requirements be?

    0

  14. Posted

    to the original poster

    if it was me i'd do one fi Q ported w/bp power option on that amp.

    hey, aren't I the guy that pointed you in the direction of Fi on the sounddomain forum? i remember your setup.

    just for your information, i have a 15" Q with bp on 1230 tested power, probably getting 950. 4.8 cuft after port, and I walked all over two 15" ported solobaric L5's on a 2500 watt audiobahn flam series (their so called high-end competition series). anyway it was fun good guy from work. but that would give you an idea of how loud these subs can be. if you were to listen to your car then mine, you'd probably laugh at your own setup. and my 15 sounds awesome, full sound, hits every note, and can still play tight bass perfect. i even think one 10" Q in a ported box would knock your socks off and save a lot of space, plus less weight on the supra :)

    sorry wrote all that before reading page 2, that system will absolutely amazing sounding, just make sure the box is built to Fi specs, not w/e goofiness that shop thinks they know. and of course being Fi, they should drop like a mofo!

    Mjmpistol? Haha if thats you cool man, that forum is slow though on responses haha. Man I've been thinking of going with a 15, but if I did I wouldn't be able to use my fiberglass I spent so much on so 12's are the only way to go or I stay with 10's on that box. And if I stayed with the two 12's I could port them, but air space again, I want more trunk space and my tiny hatch back car would get flooded too much with bass lol. I like ported, but for this car I want to stick with sealed, I like the sound quality I get. My mini van is the car for the bass banging port haha.

    So final thinking for the box, each fi Q 12 should be in a 1.3 cubic foot enclosure sealed in it's own side separate from one another right? 1.3 and with the subwoofer in there it will be about 1.2 cubic feet? I hope 1.2 cubic feet is the best as I've read, or if anyone else has any recommendations to go bigger or smaller please tell.

    Also going larger on a box per sub would flatten out the response of the sound right? Making it do less bass but less spike specific frequencies right? Thats what my shop did to make the SQ set up? I think it was overkill as it sounds weak lol.

    0

  15. Posted

    If you do a pair D1's will allow you to wire to 1ohm total in a parallel-series configuration.

    You are going to love the Sundown/FiQ combo!!

    Alright D1's it is! Thanks a bunch man I'm sure I will! Time to talk to Scott and SSA for the amp.

    0

  17. Posted

    I just read it thanks! Hmm wow so they really are good amps but wow 600 dollars. Is there anywhere else I could get this for less? And will my stock alt handle all this? My car has I think a 90-100A alternator, an interstate battery, and stock wiring for everything regarding factory electronics besides stereo. I also have a 2.5 farad cap from rockfordfosgate.

    PM denim or ssaudio to get a price for the Sundown

    I appreciate it, I did just pm'ed him, again thanks man, really thanks! So I'm sure this amp will exceed my expectations, should be better than gravity 2 channel amp thats probably underpowered and cheap. And if anything if I'm not happy with it I'm sure I can always buy another one down the line.

    0

  18. Posted

    I just read it thanks! Hmm wow so they really are good amps but wow 600 dollars. Is there anywhere else I could get this for less? And will my stock alt handle all this? My car has I think a 90-100A alternator, an interstate battery, and stock wiring for everything regarding factory electronics besides stereo. I also have a 2.5 farad cap from rockfordfosgate.

    0

  20. Posted

    Haha you guys, okay so 700 watts is more than enough than? I could go along with one amp for awhile and add another later I guess down the road... So the sundown are really rated around 1500 watts rms? So why would I get this over lets say kicker .750's? Kickers are only 250 dollars and push 900+ watts rms, And I could technically get two for the price of one sundown and push these subs near there rms, but I'm guessing the sundown would sound better as kicker amps aren't exactly the best amps out there for sound quality? Hmmm I'll look into it thanks! I'm concerned because for my new box build I have to have space pre measured for all of this, and if I get just one amp than I'll have more room for other things and etc.

    0

  21. Posted

    2 12s will give you a lot more bass. If you can, I'd go for it. Why not just keep the 1400 watt amp and get 2 Q12s?

    I'm still confused with amps and wiring, I thought I'd need 2000 watts to power these subs? 1000 watts a piece per sub right? Wouldn't 1400 be underpowering them at 700 watts a piece at best?

    You don't need a kW to power a Q.

    When I auditioned one, 700W was perfect...

    Or should I look for an amp that can provide more power and set the gain at 75 percent and what not so the amp doesn't overwork itself.
    The amp works the same whether or not the gain setting is set at full, or barely turned.

    Okay cool with the amp gain so I guess it doesn't matter as long as it doesn't distort and etc. Now about the Q power requirements, you say 700 watts was perfect? I hope your right because isn't that a bit underpowering for it's rms of 1000? Will 700 watts give the sub it's full sound potential? One of the SSD reviews said that at 500 watts it was powerful but some of it's sound ranges were weak, and once powered at rms it woke up and played all ranges perfectly. So will the Q be able to play very well at all ranges at 700 watts give or take rms? I'm still looking for an affordable amp, I rather go with one amp than two and am having a hard time finding an amp powerful enough under 500 dollars that can do this that isn't cheap.

    0

  22. Posted

    Anyone? I'm still looking for amps, I don't know if Kicker will cut it. If I got the .1000 watt one it can do about 1100-1200 watts rms will that be good enough? And is it bad for me to set the gain on the amp at 100 percent? I know amps can clip and what not especially if the gain is set too high for the head unit and everything else, but if the subwoofers eat 1000 watts rms would it be okay for the kicker amp to be set at 90 percent? Or should I look for an amp that can provide more power and set the gain at 75 percent and what not so the amp doesn't overwork itself.

    0

  23. Posted

    2 12s will give you a lot more bass. If you can, I'd go for it. Why not just keep the 1400 watt amp and get 2 Q12s?

    I'm still confused with amps and wiring, I thought I'd need 2000 watts to power these subs? 1000 watts a piece per sub right? Wouldn't 1400 be underpowering them at 700 watts a piece at best?

    0

  24. Posted

    Is that box sealed? if so, 3.2 cu ft sealed is a LOT for 2 10s. You shouldn't have any issues fitting 2 10s are 2 12s sealed. Just fill the inside up with blocks styrofoam to bring the internal volume within specs.

    You might be able to turn the box into a ported enclosure for 2 10s.

    If you have 1400 watts, 2 SSDs would be a better fit. I'm sure Qs would do well also.

    Well with 3.2 cubic feet I'm sure I could go ported, the guys who made it are spl junkies so I notice this box was better off if ported. But I want to go into the sealed world of things for this car lol. I dunno I just like how it sounds but I do miss how the ported would hit. Anyway I'm downsizing about a cubic foot but we'll see, I may still keep my 3.2 box. And I am also replacing my amp, thinking of getting kicker .750's would that be okay? There like 900-950 watts rms, would that do nicely with a Q or should I aim with the .1000 watt model? And with the 1400 I am returning it, but I'm sure the ssd's would of done nicely with it, not too under powering at all. But I want a setup that gets great sq and gets loud loud.

    Still unsure if I should stick with my 2 10 inch fiberglass enclosure or spend a bit of money to make them fit 12's. So anyone have a say are 12's really really worth it over 10's or there's hardly a difference comparing these series of subs?

    0

  25. Posted

    I dont have a Q, but I do have a BL 10", it fills my whole car with low bass off 1200 to 1500 watts rms, it sounds like or better than some 12" subs I have had in the past.

    I would do a single ported sub vs 2 sealed, unles the 2 sealed were 15's, even then, I dont like the sound of sealed so I probably would still do a single ported sub,.

    So 10's would be pretty close to 12's? Or is it worth the cost increase to go with 12's. And yeah I know ported would be far more efficient, but I just don't have the hatch space to do that, I could do 4+ cubic feet if I wanted to, but I'm currently down sizing my 3.2 cubic box to 2.4 feet give or take so I can have it flushed. So ported I could do, but I paid so much already for my fiberglass work that I rather keep it, it's just the mdf being restructured. Besides my car is small inside, ported would be overkill on my mids and highs lol. I want this to be lsq. But thanks, I'm glad to know 10's are better than many other 12's I may just keep my 10 size then. Damn I wish I had 12 inch opening on my fiberglass, the speakers themselves are only 10 bucks more.

    0
×