ncc74656

do not let your dust cap get crazy hot. its a carbon cap so its thermally conductive and thus it will always get some degree of heat transfer but if you burn your hand touching it then its to hot. you know when you are turning your bass boost up to get that extra volume for your friends. dont do it! this is why: http://imgur.com/a/XgKEP also keep in mind that hifonics will only do rated power with a lightning strike. if you are getting full excursion on that sub ill put money down that your clipping your signal hard core.

that sounds great. to be clear i have no issue spending up to 120 a speaker if it gets me a better sound quality. seeing as the JL's are just paying for brand name it seems that the 50.00 speakers are the best choice. i say this to emphasize that hte 13.00 price point is great but if the 50 gets me that much more than so be it. the one thing i CAN NOT wrap my head around is the focals... they better come with a brick of gold for there price.

after looking over the various speakers it seems that the cheaper ones are nearly identical to the really expensive ones. i wounder, does anyone have a list of who makes what brands? are speakers kinda like the batteries where even tho we have dozens of battery brands there are only a hand full of manufactures in the world who make them?

yea i am looking at those peerless now, id have to find a powerfull 4ohm amp to run those 8 ohm mids... but i doubt that will be an issue. suppose i could repair my eclipse and just use that stereo amp adn pick up a 4 channel for the mids/highs. *shrug*. well if i look at the prices im looking at about 1600 for the sub amp (or maybe 500 if i run a second KX2500.1) and then another 700 for the Fi. add to that hte glasing material, MDF for a 25 gross cubic box and what ever else i need such as a 600.00 3 sixty or a 300.00 dsp. either way im already at 3K so...

huh, i dont think its all due to korean amps... you can take the best amp you can think of and if you turn the bass boost to 80% ill bet you can burn up the leads on nearly any sub. although i will say ive blown quite a few kickers and never set my box on fire. not that id ever buy kicker over Fi that is. i wounder if my recone shipped with the new leads o.O, i havnt set it on fire yet so maybe i can take that as a yes? lol

ill give that a read. what do ya think of hte daytons? cheaper and according to some spec sheets they look to have very good liniar responce: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs225-4-8-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-376 hell to that end... i have 10" PWX's now, would i be better off going for 10" mid bass for 50-500hz or maybe the 8's would be better for that? edit2: so many brands i have NEVER heard of... fountek? driver charts look great and the price is amazing...

the only name brand speakers ive ever bought were alpines so i was curious to see just how good/bad a JL would turn out to be. (we dont have the higher end JL on display at our local store) so that was one reason i was looking towards them. i bought those PWX's and they are loud at some frequnecies but have REALLY BAD linerarity... i was hoping i could spend a bit more and fix that. i do really like how the minidsp looks and i saw that low prevolt out but if the gains on the amps are intended to simply match the inputs of hte RCA's would 2V really matter? the speakers will not be in the factory location, when teh weather is above 60 here ill be fiberglassing pods for the mids high in the doors and then sealed door boxes for the mid bass. i was looking for some speakers that may cost a bit more but have better audio properties. my goal is to rebuild my system for under 3500 if possible.

well im not sure if they changed it due to there being an issue, may simply be that from a manufacturing stand point vs benifit the spaced spiders were a net loss for them? in either case they changed it from spaced to only the standard stacked, wich is what mine had so i dont think its a design flaw.

i just came across a place called miniDSP... they appear to have processors for 4 way system for 300 bucks so about half the cost of the rockford. they have less features but thats sort of what im after. anyone ever heard of them or used them? the setup and options look pretty damn good. miniDSP 2x8 kit is what i found in my searches. edit: i forgot to ask, if not the JL mid bass then who would you recommend? i was looking around but so many places say "mid bass" but then list a response curve up to 5KH wich is a mid range speaker... not a mid bass. i think Rockford had some mid bass guys but they are only a few bucks cheaper than the JL's. i found the JL's for 130 a piece online. i could go with a HL70 midrange from hertz but i cant find them online. what 3-4" mid range would you recommend? edit 2: the kicker 650.4 (if kicker is still a good and solid brand) would be fine for my mid range and bass i would think. then i could pick up a 75X2 for tweeters that has super high S/N and very clean power since small distortion in bass is next to impossible to hear. that would avoid polk audio if they are going down hill.

that it will...

this is what i am saying - i want to go 3 way active and i want to get the correct parts to do so. i am looking for way to accomplish this and do not intend to go back to a 2 way system or a passive cross over as i have done that before and my goal is to learn more about active setups. i will not learn anything about what does or does not work with out doing it. I am not saying that impious is wrong in his information, I am saying that i do not intend to heed his recommendation to not go 3 way active. I do not care if i spend a few bucks more on a system that does not work out as well as i want to start with, i have no issue with buying a few different parts until i get the results i want as i am more in this to learn how things work together than i am getting things right the first try. I understand how coax and 2 way systems work but i have not done a 3 way yet and thus i want to go down a 3 way path. in regards to my personal audio system I need better mid range, period. i am currently running PWX crachendo 10" which do not have great frequency linearity, they are not very efficient and take a massive amount of power, my 2 channel amp that is powering them is failing and needs to be replaced. so i have been told a few times that an analog EQ is not the best for any application, impious's recommendation is to get an all in one digital unit. if i could find one i would research them but i can not locate digital processors for car audio. i know of 2, one by JL that is some OEM integration thing and the 3 sixty that is some 300 channel EQ that is way more than i need. does anyone make something in between? id buy a DEH80PRS but if im going 3 way it only has 1 front out and then 1 sub, the third is a rear out and thus i dont think that would work for alignment if i used it for a 4 channel amp through my KX3. so i think it would be a waste on my part to buy the deck when the deck i have now is just fine and i need better control anyway (perhaps not better control as much as more front stage outputs). edit: what is the intended use of a POT style EQ? whether it be a 5 channel or a 30 channel what are they used for if they do not have the capability to properly balance an active 2 or 3 way setup properly? are they normally used in conjunction with other types of processors that handle things like time alignment, phase, cross over, ect? or are they just outdated tech these days?

i am perfectly fine getting in over my head. also its not my first active, i run bi amp with a KX3 now. can you recomend a good digital processor? the only one i have found is the rockford 3 sixty and ive been told its WAY more of a unit than i will need for my application. is it a bad idea to use the cross overs on amps for bi/tri amped systems? i want to go 3 way as i do not believe it is possible to get the mid bass i want with a 6.5" driver and i would like to place my mids at a more directional location than the bottom of the doors so to that end it makes sense to use a smaller mid up high.

it was a ZX2500.1 with about 40% bass boost and gains matched to the deck so id assume the amp was putting out about 180% rated power (ish).

when i reconed the SP4 that i had catch fire (and i swear it was a real fire that spread out of the dust cap, up the cone, ignited the surround and then my box) the coil was BLACK with obvious thermal damage done to it. the leads started the fire when they ignited the spider, the forum did not burn but the cone did. so for me it was the leads that either melted or got so hot they ignited the spider. my SP4 was fully loaded with out the spaced spiders, it had the cooling and an ice blue dust cap. when i reconed it i ordered the fire dust cap - it seemed fitting.

yea man, HD2 for 93X rocks is a sweet station. dude its SO MUCH FUN TO DRIVE RIGHT NOW!!!! i spent the last 5 hours driving around pulling people out. i am amazed at all the 4X4's that get stuck on the street and all the plow trucks in the ally ways. i pulled out 7 4X4 pickups plowing ally ways who were either sideways or dug in so deep there axles were hung up on ice. i love this weather, wish it was like this all winter

i would buy the DEH80 if it had HD radio but it does not so thats out. outside of a double din i cant find a head unit that has a good EQ in it. id much rather have an external one mounted by on the amp rack im going to build with the new sub enclosure. ive got the 5 band EQ on my pioneer right now but its... meh...

i thought an EQ was just a "type of processor" like dell is a "type of computer" an eq, line driver, or cross over is just a "type of processor"?

i need to get an eq to play with and learn how they work/effect the system. i did a quick search for a digital car audio eq but did not find much aside from OEM adapters. i find lots of pot EQ's from various companies. can you recommend a digital EQ that i should look at or a manufacture?

To control the level of the signal, we use a potentiometer. A potentiometer (also know as a 'pot') is a resistor with a movable tap. I understand what M5 meant now by "pot" EQ. is there anything bad about an eq that has dials on it? are the digital or slide ones better in some way?

thats what i was thinking with the cross overs. i had a passive in line alpine filter that did next to nothing, if i had the volume at even 1/2 the tweeter had distortion if i was passing full to the mids. once i set it to a 500hz cross over it helped but when i was playing it loud i had to -5db the 100hz point to remove the distortion. when i added KX3 it made a WORLD of difference as i bi amped at the same time but even having it bi amped with a KX3 i find that i can play it louder with out distortion if i have the 100-250hz down by -6db. it just didnt make sense as to why i would need to do that and this KX3 is brand new from kicker as of 5 months ago. its for this reason i am hessitant to buy a single EQ such as the KQ30 as im worried i wont have enough control.

i am on the basics of car audio site and these is a link that plays a tone to show -1db drop on volume level. here is the link: http://bcae1.com/images/wavs/onedb.wav I can not hear ANY change in volume level in this audio file, does anyone else?

why would i do which? have separate grounds or have a combination of grounds? ill start here: grounding loops are caused when a device has more than one path to ground and a difference in potential occurs between both grounds. every electrical component should have only 1 connection to ground to avoid this. the question comes in with the batteries, from factory each battery had its own ground to body/frame/block and i replaced these to their factory locations. if 2 batteries each have there own ground point can a grounding loop occur between them? i was instructed that if possible all grounds should go to the same bolt to eliminate the ground loop noise issue.

when i finish reading bcae1.com i will play around with the a/b testing. on the topic of bcae1 - can having 2 or more batteries each with their own separate ground to the body/frame/block cause a grounding loop? should the batteries have a common ground amongst them selves that THEN goes to body/block/frame or does it not matter?

my dog killed my set of headphones but my computer speakers are a yamaha 7.2 unit with some focused field model 600's and old school fisher 4 ways. ill have to use that for now, the headphones i had were Technics RPDJ1200 and i thought they sounded great. im not sure i have any head-units in my shop that we can turn off the amps on, maybe the DEH-80prs? (id have to look). i was told that the internal amps will cause distortion and noise in high quality audio installs so decks with no built in amp should be sold OR decks that you can turn off the internal amp.

i understand the MP3 to WAV but the point of the discussion i had was that no digital signal can accurately reproduce 2nd and 3rd harmonics. is that true?