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-3 A few mistakes

About ncc74656

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    st. paul
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    auto repair, off roading, computer building, gaming, strong man, cooking, building anything, welding.
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  1. i was thinking about concerts ive been to and i have never seen anyone using a scope to setup the stage, its always using the mics/instruments through the system and adjusting off the sound. got me thinking about all this more
  2. so damping factor as i understand it is the ability to control the sub once it starts playing something, to keep its movement in check. i see numbers all over the board between amp manufactures so I'm lead to believe its kinda like contrast ratios on TV's where there isn't an industry standard to measure by, is that correct? at my work training i have been told that you want at least 500 damping factory to be effective an controlling any speaker over 10" in size but this dosent make sense to me and given its coming from a rep of a company that lists all their amps around 500 damping... well... can anyone lay this out a bit simpler or provide some "trusted" literature on the topic?
  3. i have a 2nd post similar to this but not as on point so ive made this one to nail down some questions and make things more searchable in the future. coworker was setting gains on an amp the other day and what he was doing got me thinking. if you follow mecp and set gain off a 40hz tone wouldn't the power output of that amp change drastically if the box were tuned to say 29hz or 55hz (something 1/2 or more octave above/below the frequency you are generating? or transversely if the box were tuned at 40hz...) the thermal handling of both amp and sub (assuming that's one thing you do such a procedure to keep in check) would change drastically while playing music. so wouldn't you have to select a (few) particular frequencies to run this o scope test on in order to be at all effective in such a manor? rather than a generic 40hz tone? second is source of tone: ive always been of the school of thought that you use customers music and sources when setting up their radio, so you can hear the distortion the customer will be putting out and you can (maybe) prevent him smoking his subs/speakers by turning shit down and epoxying over the gain/bass boost controls. however the coworker was using Bluetooth to a customers boss radio off a 50hz youtube video for his test tone... reguardless of what one is trying to accomplish here there is no way it could be accurate given the source, i don't know what kind of compression youtube would have at 50hz but I'm sure its pretty crap quality. i don't see any reason to have done this procedure, it was a total waste of time right? you ought to be able to use a test tone and o scope to know what to total maximum output of your equipment from input to output is. so you can have a pretty good idea if your trying to give right up to the limit of thermal handling but not to the point of damage? this could be done with a voltage measurement and some math tho right? no scope needed? i thought of another use that i have not done before while working on my engine over the weekend - i had a fueling issue caused by noise on a PWM sensor to the ECM and found/fixed this with my scope. one should be able to see interference down a wire run, say RCA's going too close to an EMI source or ac ripple going into an amps power section and with this you should be able to ensure maximum audio quality and know if you do or do not need more expensive/shielded rca's or more voltage on the rca's. again ive never seen nor heard of ANYONE using a scope this way in my shop or others in my area but i cant wrap my head around why not? any input there?
  4. rockford midbass drivers?

    I'm absolutely up for making an enclosure, ive built many for subs and home but ive never built such a thing into a car door before so that's my only challenge. I'm fine with it taking a few attempts tho so what ever. just need to decide on drivers and where they need to be placed
  5. DSP's

    i have always been told horns are terrible in car audio - ive never looked into them because of this. where is a good place to read about the differences and get some information on such a setup that is reputable?
  6. rockford midbass drivers?

    sorry i missed those speakers. yea i have used peerless before and thought they sounded great... i didn't see them on partsexpress tho as they are listed as subwoofers and not woofers so i had them excluded from my search. they have a fairly low f3 which i thought would be undesirable if used in a 2 way system (although if I'm sealing an enclosure with them perhaps that wont matter as much?) the graph free air response is pretty smooth through the midbass range. ill look into those guys a bit more and see what winisd says. i like the power handling and they look beefy as frig...
  7. rockford midbass drivers?

    its distortion, muddy frequencies that sound like audio passing through water
  8. rockford midbass drivers?

    can you give me an example of a driver you would use in such a situation? just so i can see its specs and features to kinda know what IS and what isn't?
  9. DSP's

    i think i know very well what i want. i don't need instaine audio quality but i don't want shit quality. i don't want it to sound like the trucks with 5 sets of bullet tweets and subs... i want the full range of speakers and audio in the truck so that i can hear every note and all of the music. basically i want lossless audio to sound better than an mp3 in my truck and not be limited by the install or audio equipment. i do want loud. systems i have heard with krx3's, hertz legends, illusion, etc. have not been loud enough and have not had enough bass. i want louder and i want more bass but i don't want to sacrifice too much quality
  10. rockford midbass drivers?

    thing is there not, most are close to the same or a bit cheaper. as an example the 1600.00 Rockford 2500.1 amp is 550 and the 900.00 hertz 7" is one hundred 10.00. that's why its so hard to decide to go after other speakers than car audio... if the prices were retail there is no way i would condier them. such as the JL 13w7's or the focal krx3's are priced insane.. i just cant wrap my head around what could possibly be so expensive on those speakers, they do not sound 1800.00 better than a 200.00 set of speakers
  11. DSP's

    I'm looking into 2 way drivers atm, trying to ascertain what i would need to get what I'm after. gotta admit I'm having a hard time finding a large mid range, i could go down to a 7" or so and find a decent pairing but i have the idea that a 7" wouldn't have enough bass for me... maybe I'm wrong? my coworker has a hertz 7" in his doors and they sound amazing for his setup but he still dosent have the volume I'm after (best midbass ive ever heard actually, i just want it to be much louder)
  12. rockford midbass drivers?

    I'm looking into 2 way setups as well now. since i can get stupid low prices from car audio companies can any of you think of a sub that would work as a midbass? kicker, audison, focal, hertz, Rockford, infinity, jbl, pioneer, illusion audio, and mosconi, kenwood, clarion - are the brands i have to choose from
  13. rockford midbass drivers?

    yea i was talking about ebp, just didn't use the right words. i am fine throwing a thousand watts at each midbass if needed but that brings another question... i should model all the potential speakers I'm looking at in winisd, my coworkers have often just looked at the sensitivity and scoffed at power handling because a sensitive speaker will always be louder than one with lots more power. " " . i must admit i don't have a great handle on how power rating really impacts sound. i have been told any speaker that needs loads of power is poorly designed because jl or focal can make a speaker that is far louder and takes just a fraction of the wattage. take my sp4 for example, it can take 3500W where a jl w7 might take 800 and be comparable in volume. i have not compared the two but this is what i am often told for why we sell such brands.
  14. DSP's

    hmmm. i really want to do a 3 way because its a 3 way and i want to have that experience. having said this... ill need to do some research but if i pair a 3.5" mid with a 10" bass i would need to have the mid at least on axis and possibly both due to beaming issues no?
  15. cheap basic o scope

    this depends on services they bought, if they paid for o scope tuning alone then it sits where it sits, unless there is a major noticeable deviation then we turn down what ever is too loud. if they paid for rta tuning then we go through and do a tune to setup staging and such but this can only be sold with a dsp.