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ncc74656

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-3 A few mistakes

About ncc74656

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    Male
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    st. paul
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    auto repair, off roading, computer building, gaming, strong man, cooking, building anything, welding.
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    24V diesel 99 ram

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  1. yea the more i read man.... so im pretty much on point with what i said up there? im not way off base or anything with my assertions? there is just so much confusion around "car" audio
  2. we sell many dsp's that are quite expensive and listed to go from 10hz-67Khz, 96khz 24bit or even as high as 192khz... im questioning what is actually needed to get good quality audio. as far as i know you need double hte sampling rate of the frequency you are reproducing to get the same output as input. now my understanding is the output is EXACTLY what is put in at double the sampling rate. (i suppose minus a bit of dithering?) so if a file was 20hz-16khz a sampling rate of 32khz would be able to accurately produce every sine wave in that file.... right? then we have the amplitude, my understanding is 16bit is enough to give +/- 100db of dynamic range which seems WAY more than is needed to me? i mean if im blasting my stereo i doubt i could hear subtle audio at even 50db less than im playing it as my EARS cant adjust fast enough for that kind of gradient. some of the processors in these dsp's are 64 bit now, isnt a 24bit or even a 16bit processor enough to handle the standard 44.1/16 cd audio? wich brings me to the next question...i can tell the difference from an mp3 to a flac or a 96kbps mp3 vs a 320mp3 but i cant hear any difference in a wav vs a flac, i have taken flac files from HD tracks and down converted them to wav and i just cant tell... i "think" a wav file is 22.5 khz for each channel right? so a 48khz sampling on a dsp should be more than enough to not induce any distortion? i have also read that super-sampling a wav file will lead to artifacts, such as if you sample a 44.1 wav file to 192 it will have more audible distortion than that same file sampled at 48. does a dsp function differently than the raw audio playback file does? does it need more data points to do its job or is all this higher sampling/higher bit rate/fancy cpu's all marketing? finally IF all this higher sampling/bit/cpu all does generate higher fidelity audio... is that increased clarity going to ever be discernible in a car environment?
  3. i like the idea of a carputer but i dont want to deal with a UI mess. ive been looking at available software but idk. i dont really care for any of the current double dinn name brand setups and the android chinesiums have some kool features but their hardware sucks and UI is a mess. if i could put a 12" touch screen with a UI that defaults to "car stuff" and maybe has secondary apps but every radio setup i have seen so far is the windows or linux or android os with their corresponding apps you need to load and move through. its just not as seamless as a kenwood or pioneer. i wish it could be as functional as my laptop when i need it to be and have the UX of a kenwood when i want it to be.
  4. just thinking, why do we still use head units? we are taking digital signals from streaming/flac/wave files on a phone or usb stick and converting that to analog just to convert it back to digital at the dsp... are there any head units out there that just go digital to a dsp rather than the extra conversion step? i was considering a carputer to just do source and dsp all in one via software and a soundcard up front
  5. ok, kool. i just hadn't considered the effects of that style setup before so i wanted to check
  6. i feel like you are over read or over complicating? I'm not asking about amperage or wiring sizing or anything like that. rather I'm asking that if in the same way you can get grounding differential that can cause induced noise in a system by having grounds spaced all over the vehicle could the same thing or does the same thing occur with the power input feeds from the charging system? e.g. if you have two alternators that deliver power to different points in the system could that cause a difference in voltage potential that could cause erroneous functionality in either the charging or electrical system? rather is there a "standard" practice for multiple charging systems to be routed to a single point or is it acceptable to have them connected to different batteries in the system. it makes sense to me that routing one alt to the other and then to one battery would be the best way to run the wire but ive never looked into this so i thought id ask
  7. ok we are getting off track here, the question is simple: in a multi battery configuration with multiple charging points should all the charging devices be going to a single connection point in the electrical system OR can they be connection at multiple junction locations with out ill effect?
  8. no, none of this is factory wiring, the client has rewired with 4/0 gage and added his own mechman after market alt to the second factory location where one did not exist before. he has one mechman with power going to the passenger side battery and the second mechman is going with power to the drivers side battery, they do not go to a central point. i have run 3 alts in my truck and always had them going to a single charging distro block and then to a single battery, i never considered what possible problems (if any) would be present if multiple alternators were going to different points in the charging system.
  9. ok so having each alternator go to its own battery is a non issue then, no chance for any voltage differential to cause issues in the charging system.
  10. i have a client with a 6 battery bank in the bed and dual factory battery locations up front. he has 2 alternators and each alternator is going to its side battery so the driver side alt is going to the driver side battery and passenger alt going to the passenger side battery. i dont know - does having 2 point of voltage input going to two different batteries in an electrical system present any kind of issue? e.g. should these alternators be rewired to both go to a single positive terminal on one battery or is status quoe good enough? we are pushing close to 1200A at full tilt and are considering a 3rd alternator in an after market bracket (current two are in factory locations). (power stroke)
  11. multiple mid bass

    i have been instructed that you can not use multiple mid bass drivers (or multiple midrange/tweets either) because it is not possible to setup proper staging with this configuration. staging being set via the dsp to push the sound stage past the physical limits of the vehicle. is it true that multiple drivers are next to impossible to setup a sound stage on?
  12. in the industry and training you get, you are told you must use an oscope to ensure clean signal from your source and to match your gains to the input voltage. you also use this on the output of your amps to find max output. you can not setup a car audio system with out taking these steps. i don't buy into this anymore, i don't know why this is taught but i do know that it does not prevent blown speakers, it does not ensure better quality audio by itself, and it seems a waste of time and money to buy the multi thousand dollar o scopes required for this
  13. you know what ive been thinking about... some how in the audio industry we have gotten to the point of selling a 400W amp for a 400W sub, always trying to match the sub to amp rms. then we take the o scopes and meters to try and get max output from the amp with out any real consideration for voltage amps going to the voice coils. way back when i worked with home audio we would sell amps that had head room, 150w amps with 80 or 100w speakers and we would set them up by playing music and some times using microphones to setup time alignment. we never had them maxed out tho, in car audio we are always trying to push distortion and max out power but i never did this in home audio. i also do not ever remember anyone talking about going from tv to receiver to speakers to measure things with scopes. i think most of the blown subs i see at work are from pushing the subs past their thermal capacity because we always setup the equipment to operate at 100+% of its rated values.
  14. horns for mid/tweet

    i was looking at 3 ways at first but was directed towards two ways and then horns so i thought id check them out. ill do some more research, maybe i don't end up going with horns after all. we will see what i find
  15. horns for mid/tweet

    so lets assume that i am fine with a stupid amount of work and effort here. assume this with the stipulation that i want a LOUD and clear stereo that is well above average on both counts. I'm open to everything from 3 way to 2 way horns and anything in between. i even read about some people doing 5 ways with horns to keep the sound stage outside of the a pillars. most of this i have never worked with before but i want a system that is more clear with better transient response and far louder than the next 10 guys
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