ncc74656

i just got my sub hooked up and my chasing electrical issues. while testing the sub i noticed the dust cap got very very warm, to the point of me wanting to pull my hand away when i touched it. the sub was not reaching xmax and was also not fully powered. i have the sub wired as follows to a ZX2500.1. now i noticed that the kicker amp flashes protect when the bass hits but its not constant. so i expected there to be a grounding issue. i ran all new 0ga power and ground using 5/8" brass bolts and nuts and 1/8" brass flat washers on a freshly grinded clean section of my frame rail. im replacing my alt wire to 0ga and am looking into a new alt. all this said i feel that the dust cap issue is unrelated to the grounds. now i have had some extensive courses in digital design so i thought i would put them to use in building a 2D model representation of my 3D diagram i built on how i wired my sub: please do not comment on my skil as an artist as i know im very good. i am however interested i knowing if this is wired correctly for a 2 ohm load on a dual 1 ohm coil sub.

well i trust kicker to rebuild it properly. i may still sell it and get another brand, just not sure what amp id want...

idk, i had a ZX1500.1 for 7 years with out issue and it was great. this 2500.1 is just a jinkx i guess but i think a good part of it is how things are wired and used. i blew all my kicker subs ive ever owned so i dont care for there subs much.

i tried to fix it myself, replaced the mosfets with some upgraded models and it worked for a while but then burst into flames. i sent it out to kicker last week. i also picked up some junk amps on craigs list to play with as i want to learn more about how they work. i also started working at a high end audio shop so im getting trained in with MECP classes and the like. should make things easier going forward as i unlearn some bad shit and relearn some good shit.

does anyone have any information or links comparing the copper coated wire vs the solid copper wire as far as performance and such? id like to know when one can be used vs the other. thanks.

ha, the box didnt burn to much, i still use to today. i tried my hand at upgrading my kicker amp and it worked for a while before poping and catching on fire agian so i sent it off to kicker this time round. i picked up 4 busted amps from craigs list and im trying my hand at repairing these. i really want to learn how to build and repair amps so i can understand better exactly whats going on in there.

i have a mechman 320 alt...

11 cubic for 2 Q 18's. i want to retain the 33hz volume as much as possible but i absolutely want to reach 75hz at a very good volume out of these. my idea was to go 11 cubic and put a bit of poly fill inside. it is not for certain that i will buy 2 Q's, i will know after i test my rebuild SP4 to see if i can get the volume i want out of it at the frequencies i want. im expecting i wont be able to. this would be the box design:

I have only recently built my first vented box and ive built a few sealed but anyone can do that. I want to try a 4th order to see how it works. my goals are to flatten my response curve and hit 30-90 hz. a large part of this is just the experience so its not all about the sound but i do want to get a more musical setup with high output volume. I played with things all night and read up with what i could to see how this thing is ment to work. thoughts? the .33 cubic that is directly off the sub cone in the vented box is not taken into consideration on the torres sheet. by my math the tuning will lower itself a bit with that.

My deck is rated at 4 volt preamp but when I measured it I get 4.1 volts at maximum volume on my subwoofer RCA and 0.7 volt on my front and rear. The deck manual States 4 volt at 10 percent Distortion so my question is should I pick up a 3-way line driver, cap the deck volume at three quarters, and use the line driver to boost the one volt and 3 volt signal up to 6 volt?

i was tought to solder but not crimp. you got any videos that show the "proper" way?

so what would a better way be? wires are all soldered and bolted to there respective terminals.

it just started working again while i had it pluged into a PSU. chips are still burnt tho...

i took some picks of my install, this is pretty much every critical area so you can see how i have it setup. some of the parts i had to unbolt and pull down to get a picture of but it still is pretty accurate to how its hooked up while driving around: http://imgur.com/a/Xrngj

would a amp meeter on the power wire be a reliable way to have a visual reference of possible clipping? at 202A the amp would be at max power. so if I see the draw go above 202 I would know its trying to make to much power. right?

i understand now, i had always thought it worked differently. since removing bass boost and repairing the port that was to wide on its vertical leg the bass is much more responsive and much more clear. also seems a bit louder as well.

what is the formula to determine how much longer a port needs to be with kerfs? i intend to have 1 3" kerf on top and a 2.5" kerf on the port bend. anyone have any links? thanks.

fiberglass is your friend?

thank you. when building a center slot port box O l l O style. torres does not have an option for this so i assume i divide all the measurements by half and then use torres. when building i double it up and it should work? i tried winisd but they also do not have an option for the center port.

got ya. well i will be doing body work in the spring so thats when i would do anything with more sound deadening. i figured out one issue with my setup. i had my remote bass knob plugged in when i was tuning. so the gain was always at its minimal level. i had thought this knobb was for bass boost and did not realize it was linked to the gain settings.

as i have gone through the websites reading about gain i would agree that i was mistaken on how it functioned. the "rule" you speak of was told to me by circuit city and was in there training programs when i worked there and was recited by many shops i have gone to over the years. "higher gain leads to distortion, thats why you want a head unit with 4 or 5V pre amps so you get good, clean, and undistorted signal to your amps" so thats what ive been running with untill now. my goal is not to eliminate road noise, the tires are 37" with 1.5" tread depth, they alone will be loud enough to enter the cab but you can not hear them over the engine. MAYBE at some point i might add some more but its not a priority for me. this is the engine sound i am talking about, first video is driving down the road and second is starting sound: engine starting > i dont know why youtube screwed up the video on starting but it gets the idea across.

I don't have any engine noise in my speakers. the way I have conveyed it here is how it was explained to me by some local shops. what kind of details would you like ? a step by step of my system setup?

ahha. now as for ground, what would cause the sub rca to have 3v and the front/rear .5? a ground couldn't do that? so my nest step before anything else should be to see if my head unit is clipping the rca signal before the amp gets to full power. right? oscope the RCA to find that out?

im not following how grounding will lessen engine noise? the fatmat did remove quite a bit of road noise when i installed it, that said im not sure ive ever used a "barrier" like what you are talking about. is that the thick foam stuff? one of the thoughts behind the line driver was that my eclipse is at 100% gain and my deck at max volume still does not max my door speakers. i was under the assumption that the amp was getting 4V untill i tested it a couple days ago. perhaps this is a reason for my poor performance in that regard. i would like to be able to max my amps potential at a lower deck volume to avoid distortion. that part still makes sense to me. im going to borrow a line driver tomorrow from a buddy and play with it, see how it effects things. its an EQ with a line built in so i get to play a bit with tuning as well. i also checked my sub voltage one more time and i had +4 on the deck for the sub, when i removed this my sub rca voltage dropped to 3V, even at max volume.

what makes you think the grounds are jacked? they are bolted to the frame. I have 200 sqft of fat mat in the cab. the engine is just loud. no amount of dyno can block it. my understanding is that you can only amp a signal so much. that's why you want a higher pre amp, so you have note headroom. the deck starts to clip the rca signal at 52 of 62 volume. that's about .55v out of the rca. so if I line drive that .55 to 4v then I won't be clipping and can have lower gains on the amps. am I misunderstanding something here? p.s. M5 we are both in mn. I should buy you lunch and you can come unjack my system