ncc74656

any update on T/s? i have a blown 10" pwx, how can i tell from taking it apart what the specs are?

ive ordered 5 subs from Fi so far. first one took about 3 months, second took 2 months and a week. third and fourth were about 6 weeks and the last one took 4 weeks to the day. subs were Q's, BL, and SP4. in 12's and 18's.

i will send you a pm tomorrow morning as a reminder

here is a 3D model of the 70hz box. ill test this thing out tomorrow, i was able to make it a bit smaller but i think i might be hard pressed to fit a .82 cubic foot box into my door. perhaps not; i have not calculated internal door volume yet.

ok, i redid the math factoring in the mechanical xmax being larger. its a guesstimate but it should be close enough for government work.

by my math i would need a 1.4 cubic box to get a 70hz tune given the xmax of the driver. (measured with a ruler as i press the cone up)

so you think a speaker in a 70hz box would fit my needs better. i will throw these into a 70hz tomorrow and see what i get out of em. maybe they will work well or maybe i will find they just cant keep the higher ends with this lower push. these crachendos seem to be close to the skylar audio that i see on the SSA store. i feel like a 6.5 is just to small to give the volume that i need. what kinds of mid range would you suggest off the top of your head?

well the PWX are larger than a 6.5 and the alpine type R's that i had were no where near loud enough so i decided larger would be better. for the 300W that they take it does sound considerably better than any 6.5 ive ever heard. that paired with my tweets does a pretty good job at covering the frequencies in the upper end. where i feel it is lacking is the high bass line range, just above where the sub cuts out and where my mids pick up. i put a 15" MTX jack hammer in my truck to test things and it was tuned to 80hz with a xover at 250hz. this did a great job at filling the bass line that i was looking for so my thoughts are that between the 80-200hz mark is really where i want more earth shaking volume. i built a box tuned at 48hz for my SP4 that im going to try when i get my recone to see how it sounds. as for porting these i have never seen a ported door speaker... i can easily build a 45hz box for these PWX as a proof of concept but given that i intend to build a fiberglass box into my door, how would i port such a thing? i was looking at sealed to give me better volume and frequencies with out unneeded complexity. if ported is how i should go then so be it but would i would want it ported back into the cab no? so at that point an external port would be what i would be doing, building up from the fiberglass box itself. as it stands i will need to move my window arm back about 7 inches to give me workable room in the doors. i have never build a fiber glass box before so this box/door panel will be my first. to be clear, i want to do what ever is best for my setup not only to get better sound but also to learn how to undertake more complex projects in car audio. such as fiber-glassing.

i built some boxes today. started with a 1 cubic and started cutting it shorter bit by bit. 1 cubic sounded better than no box but it was rather floppy sound .86 cubic sounded good but lacked the punch .79 and .739 sounded progressively better over the .86 and kept getting a deeper and more full sound. .64 was nearly identical in volume and frequency as the .739 box .58 was the smallest box that retained the frequency sweep and volume as the .64/.739 box. .50 sounded much worse than .58 .38 was about the same quality as the .5 .31 is where things changed, the sound was very full, with a wide range of frequencies and it really punched on the lows. the .64 sounded more open at the high range than this .31 but the .31 had far better low range punch. .25 was hard to even get the speaker to fit into, it was fairly empty in sound, better than free air but lacked any real boom from the bass. i stopped there. so by this i would want to build a .31 box out of fiber glass in my doors.

he is looking more for audio quality than spl performance so i figured a Q would fit better than a SP4 or BL. i thought about a band pass, figured a standard ported box for a Q would give him a wider frequency range than a band pass would. if he wanted 2 subs then that would change things i suppose.

a friend wants a fi q 18" in a blow through box in his S10. my thought was to build a box in the bed with a collar of linexed MDF into the cab. once i have the box built then i would build another box over it to span the distance of the bed rails and help weather proof the box in the bed. a ZX1500.1 will be his amp with a 220A mechman alt and a XS 2500 battery. he mostly listens to chilly peppers, some techno, basically what ever pandora throws on. to that end i think the sub might do well tuned a tad higher than 32 but what are your thoughts? is there anything that most people over look when building a blow through?

its a single cab. my thought was to build a flange that extends into the cab and have the sub and port on the box wall maybe 3 inches before the bed hole starts. as it stands i will need to cut the bed rail out and then weld in some steel to raise the bed rail about 5 inches to accommodate the sub. the sub itself has a larger O/D than the bed rail is tall... basically my friend has an extra 4K that he wants to dump into a stereo. last time he had extra cash we build him a 5K dollar computer with an intel extreme and 5 SSD's in raid-0. this time round he wants a sound system that will beat mine. he even suggested buying 2 sp4's but outside of a 4th order i do not see any way to fit them in there. unless he buys a new truck... i have never built a box like this before so its a learning experience for me as well.

not a bad idea... ill do that. does an external port vary in any way from an internal port?

i understand that but a sub tuned to 34hz in a 7 cubic enclosure will sound different than a sub tuned to 34hz in a 6.2 cubic enclosure no? so when you remove port and change the tuning do you add wood inside to balance the cubic footage as well?

how do you guys account for the change in net volume as you replace ports?

i had talked about building an octo port earlier but everyone said it was a bad idea and a gimmic so i never bothered.

k, ill build 2 more boxes on both extremes. a 32hz tune and a 45hz tune and ill see what it souds like

man i understand so much more now. why do all the sites that explain boxes not go into this mechanical vs electronic slope?

the orders only pertain to the cross over slope tho right? so a box is a box and coupled with what ever xover is what determines its order. right?

LMFAO!!!!!!!!! im running a fire dust cap this time. it seems fitting. so a 4th order vented enclosure is what i have now right? its a vented box with a 35hz tuning and a 24db slope xover.

so i want to make sure i understand this. your saying that the sealed box is going to give A-B frequency and sharply cut off leaving B-C frequencies dead and then the vented side would pick up at C-D in a limited range on the high end before dipping off into a dead zone?

now when you say alignment, do you mean its the wrong box or is there more meaning to it than this? from what i read a bandpass can give me lows from sealed and high from ported. logically this makes me think that it would fit me better than a straight vented. where am i going wrong in my conclusions? do i not understand this properly? what would you say would be "my box"? a vented with a higher tuning?

ok wait a min now... the orders reffer to DB slope of the cross over fall of? so 24 is 4th order and 6 is 1st order? i read this, but also read 1,2,3,4th order BOXES so im very confused here. a bandpass is a box with 1 sealed and 1 vented enclosure right? so that means i want a 4th order bandpass setup to maximize my chances of getting the results i want.

wait a miniute... a 4th order is one sealed and one vented chamber in a box with a cross over on the sub no? what is a 4th order BP?

i just did the final procedure and got: 49.816117" so thats better. i did the -1.463R last as it was outside of the close bracket. so if this box will not give me up to 90 (and maybe i dont need that), i know i want my sub to sound more like it did with my old box so by the math that box would have peaked at around the 75hz mark. ill throw my box into winisd and see what the air speed comes out to.