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assuming i use the minimum port area by the online calculator and if i have read up on order of operations correctly and didnt screw up the math then i believe my port should be 67.2858" long. does this sound right? i have no clue how i could ever fit a 67" port and this number is way off from what ever other calculators ive used. 1.463*10^7*(11.941)^2/(45^2*15310.08) those were the numbers i used.

well it sounds like this is what i am looking for then. the boxes are crazy large tho... like im looking at a good 45% increase in size. not sure how im working this...

i need to relearn order of operations here... i have hte base numbers but the total area that i should have is another question that i need to figure out. i was told that i need 438.85 of port area for this band pass on the caraudio forum calculator. on here another guy said i would want 877.7 of port area for this bandpass so im not sure what is hte correct answer here for minimum port size. when i built my last box the calculator said 227.78 area but i went with 99 port area instead to stay more inline with what Fi had on htere cut sheets. so idk if any of this is accurate. do you have any input on what my port area should be in this kid of box? by my math i have 15310.08 cubic inches of volume (VB). and 11.941 radius. on top of that i think i want a 45 ish tune on the vented part no?

ok so i used some other calculators online like this one: http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm and im not sure if i should enter net or total volume into these things or if i should enter the net volume before or after the port displacement is taken into account... id like to do the math manually as it seems there are countless programs/opinions out there on how to calculate tuning and they are all different. the sketchup is built directly off of the specs in torres so id expect the tores to be more correct.

hmmm, ok let me get my head around this and i will post up on here in a bit what i think the math should be to make sure i understand it all.

so the torres port length should be 9.5" and its factoring in a half port width extension past the port as a "physical" port. right? so the physical wood length should be 3.5" shorter to obtain the same frequency? i used this program to build my last box as well so if its wrong here id assume it was wrong there too?

i had always heard good things about this program. what program should i use? by the math i see a 7" tall port plus a 1.5" piece of wood to 8.5" X 32" wide with a common port wall and then total length of port which is 19.5". the port is 11" long plus 3.5" end correction and 3.5" port width to the rear plus wood thickness of 1.5". so 8.5X32X19.5 is 5304 cubic inches divided by 3.06944 displacement of port. i list this to demonstrate my understanding of this and if i am wrong to allow others to correct me. in the program i did not select 3 common port walls wich does throw it off, i just noticed that. thoughts?

it sounded flatter than the vented wich was good but it was not able to reproduce the upper highs that my old BL was able to in its higher tuned box. i really liked the flatter response but im not sure if i like sealed over ported, id love to have a ported that could have a bit flatter of a response rate as there are some frequencies that i want to hear louder. im starting ot understand how the sub functions as i play with new boxes.

i just made a sealed to play with. i now want to try a 4th order. i want to know how a 4th order works and how it sounds so i really want to build one. im making a new post to see if i understand things correctly.

i intend to do an overhaul and get things setup different. still trying to understand bits and pieces of the system dynamics.

so i found a great site that goes into extreme detail on the bass boost thing. http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm from playing the sample audio files i now know that the sound i thought was a loose screw or tools rattling along side my box was actually the sub clipping the signal. it was quite extreme as well as it was so loud i thought it was rattling parts.

We can work you a deal on a recone, I emailed you earlier explaining that we have no extra cones right now until we hear from our vendor as to when they will be arriving. I also said I would let you know when I know. Odds are we can come up with a recone kit for you, I just have to have a date so I can tell you when. It's not a warranty situation nor is it our fault, we don't want you to be mad by any means, but whoever set the amplifier up had absolutely no idea what they were doing. If that amp was set up on a BL like that, you were extremely lucky you didn't burn it up as well. Regardless of what speaker you put in there..if you put it in there with that set up how it is right now you're going to have similar results. Speakers are stupid, they do what you tell them to do in the environment that you place them in. You can't go do a car dealer, buy a new car, wrap it around a telephone pole, and expect the dealer to say 'oh sorry that pole jumped out infront of you, here is a brand new car on our dime'. There would be no car dealerships - which is why you have insurance companies that you pay premiums for every month to protect you from something happening. Sadly, there are no speaker insurance companies..if there were they would be out of business quickly . im pretty sure you know what my email is (i assume you work at Fi), if you happen to find a recone kit or know of an ETA let me know. im uncertain if i should order the recone now or wait on it.

through out my life i prefer to learn from experience. i do not learn well from only reading

i understand the frustrations on warranty issues and customers breaking there products. I work in apartment management and deal with tenants damage deposits, there friends breaking our buildings, court room bickering about why we have to pay to fix what they broke and how they are not responsible for anything in there lives... i understand and experience the frustrations on both sides of this equation all the time. sigh, i am pissed that ive had systems installed and setup for years in my trucks, at home, and on my computer. ive learned mostly by trial and error and i thought i had a better handle on audio systems than it appears i did. im pissed that i just got my amp back after some jack a** broke it by stealing from me and next thing i blow up a sub that i could have prevented had i known a bit more. more than anything i just want to get the system working again so i can feel like i have finished this project rather than leaving it open. and i still need to test this amp again to see if it got messed up at all.

I had this same setup and amp on a bl18 with out issue. I think I may try and trade the basket plus cash for some other 18. My f*** up with the settings but something catches on fire I don't feel like it should happen. and a recone that take just as long to get as another sub I'm just not terribly happy with fi right now. Or myself for that matter.

i have a good deck and 4V pre amps so i feel that i dont need to play much with the source voltage. the total drop in for a recone is under 200 which is fine but Fi says they are back logged on cones... i get that it might be my mistake and my system but im curious to know what a back log is. if its going to take months just to get a recone i find that unacceptable. im not sure yet as im waiting to hear back but i want to just buy a recone and get this done. could i put a different cone in this basket?

I saw the video but it doesn't explain what it's intended purposes is. How does it actually function? It only boosts 1 frequency on a certain octave slope? Secondly do we think there's any reason a recone would not fix it?

out of curiosity why is bass boost there? what is its 'intended' function? it seems odd to me that a dial that has no positive effects would be on every amp.

if we are absolutely sure its an issue with my setup and not any defect with the speaker than i would think a recone is in order, no? is there any reason why a recone would not rebuild this speaker?

the bass boost was hooked up through the remote dial. my understanding was that so long as there was no clipping the bass boost was just as good as a volume knob. I also recall reading that the bass boost on an amp that is designed with a remote bass knob is different than an amp not designed for this function or a deck. is there any difference? the kicker amp was rebuilt thorough RMA as it was damaged last month when a guy broke into the truck and shorted out my wires. that's why i just got it from kicker.</p> <p>the SP4 has cooling and the dust cap but no space spider, i didn't read anywhere that it provided any kind of noticeable improvement for the sub so i opted not to buy i did not have a AQ amp, i had a 1500.1 on my BL before upgrading to a 2500.1 and running my BL off that for quite a while until i sold it to get my SP4. my enclosure is at 35hz and my subsonic is at 30hz. (3rd party sub sonic filter). </p> </p> the bass boost at 50% (ish) started to clip so i have a mark on my bass boost at 40% up. the sub was dual 1 and the amp is at 2ohm. </p> my deck has loudness off, bass boost off, flat EQ, a +2 on SLA level to balance it with my radio, and thats about it.</p>

my Sp4 cough fire today. i just got my new amp from kicker and hooked it up yesterday. i spent 60 bucks to pay some local shop to oscope the amp (thats one amp! 60 bucks for a single o scope) but i wanted to be safe... just got my new alternator installed and i put new wiring in not long ago. driving down the road my sub cuts out and i smell smoke, thinking the amp wire came loose or some wire is melting i pull over and check my amps, batteries, wiring under the truck; then i see thick smoke coming from the sp4 just before flames burst through the surround. while on fire i pull and yank trying to get this box that weighs 3 times what i do out of hte back of hte truck. still burning i try to put the fire out and here are the results. i have owned this sp4 for only a couple months and prior i had a BL 18 on this same setup with same amp and had NO issues for 7 months. http://imgur.com/a/SifIJ i will be emailing Fi shortly and requesting a replacement or a recone kit to be sent.

i have 2 batteries (group 31) and a 240A mechman alt. i just got my amps back today from repair and while driving (even on high way) the voltage drops. i got as low as 12.4 during most songs while at a high volume. lower volumes it performs much better than factory but im looking to stabilize my setup even at high volumes. i did some drive testing today and my RPM sits at 650 idle, 1100 on most road driving and 1600 at 55Mph. when i turn O/D off the voltage seems to stabilize a bit more but still not perfect. upgrade to a larger alt? add another battery? add a second alt? thoughts?

i want a system that is crazy loud with great frequency range. i like hearing the jumps and drops from one frequency sweep to the next in my songs. i had a sub @44hz that i loved but it was not loud enough and had no low end (44hz, no low end? go figure). so i bought a new one and tuned to 35 and now i have no high end. so my thought was this. what about building a wall, dual ported subs with one tuned to 32hz and the second at 40 or 45hz. installing xovers and subsoncs to prevent the 2 subs from over laping one another. would this work or should i just build a sealed box and be done with it? i was thinking 2 SP4 18's

there are so many "best things ever" and gimmicks around that its hard to sift through them given that i have limited experience in custom fab.

i got it in the mail yesterday. so thats an order on mid day Tuesday, built, shipped, and delivered by noon on Friday... amazing service. im going to install it today, i wish i could be excited but i need to mail my amps out for repair after a guy tried to steal them and arced the crap out of them.