ncc74656
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Posts posted by ncc74656
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thats exactly what i thought and am trying to teach the new guys but my boss is teaching what i posted above.
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so because the "bridging" is using 1 rail of each channel, each rail will see half of the load. so a 2 ohm sub load being bridged would make each rail see 1ohm.
that is how its being explained.
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the way it was just explained is that because we are: "using 1 rail from each side of hte amp that the amp will further reduce the ohm load"
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if we bridge a stereo amp does the impedance of the amp change?
does the amp being bridged change the final impedance to the subs?
as an example would 2 4ohm SVC subs wired in parallel be seen as a 1ohm load by a bridged amp?
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i have my Viper 2500.1D on 13' of 1/0 (OFC) power wire and 2' of ground (CCA). I have a 2500W inverter that I am going to install and need to run more wires for.
I have a group 49AGM directly under the truck where the amps are. I have some pure copper 2/0ga wiring that im going to use for power and ground.
the power inverter and the viper both have dual 4ga inputs for both power and ground instead of single 0ga.
what connectors would you recommend for the dual 4 to 2/0 connections?
would it be preferred to run the current 0ga to the power inverter and then run new 2/0ga to the battery under the truck?
so as im typing this im thinking: it would be best to just use a distro block for both power and ground. run 2 4ga runs or power and ground to the amps and a single 4ga run to the inverter. the length of these runs would be 1-2'. would there be any point in keeping the current 1/0ga wire from the front or just pull that out and run a 2/0 directly from the battery under the truck?
the battery under the truck has 2 2/0 runs@8' long to the front passenger side battery and a 2/0ga run@4' to the driver side battery under the hood. its grounded via a 2/0 to the frame@1' length.
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my coworkers has rainbows. he has said they are thousand dollar speakers (component set) in his 2011 avenger. they sound VERY clear and responsive BUT they do not get killer loud so it does depend on what your goals are. the cross overs in them have an option to be bi-amped or run off a single amp based on how you configure them. they have incandescent bulbs in them to show you when they are being over powered and prevent damage. the cross overs are round, about the size of a saucer plate for your tea.
i will need to ask him what the model number is of his speakers and verify the price/quality compared to the ones you are referring to.
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yea, thats what im worried about. i had heard that other companies like PSI sell soft parts but idk if they would have it for such a sub :/ gotta wait to hear back. our local midwest speaker is a place that my boss always directed people for there car audio repairs so i called them today to ask for parts... yea, they dont repair car audio subs as they dont have high temp parts... so for god knows how long he has been sending customers to a place that cant help them.
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i sent them an email, we shall see...
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a friend has a blown 12.5 LF boston acoustics sub that had its coil unwind on him. its a single 2ohm coil - does anyone know where i can find a recone kit for this sub?
thanks.
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i bought my AGM's from sears online, they often have coupons for there diehards online that are not in teh stores. for myself i scored a 350.00 coupon on some group 49's.
The Group 29's in your sig are jealous.
i will need to fix that sig
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i bought my AGM's from sears online, they often have coupons for there diehards online that are not in teh stores. for myself i scored a 350.00 coupon on some group 49's.
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as you drop from 2ohm to 1ohm to .5ohm ect, you gain greater THD and the power conversion becomes less efficient so more power is wasted in heat. this is what i was taught. so i asked if an amp is designed for 2ohm and you run it at 1 then sure its going to react differently and the specs wont hold true but if the amp is built for 1ohm would it not be built so as to have simliar specs to that 2ohm amp? to which the answer was no, it does not matter what the amp is rated at - it will always be less efficent and require more amps at lower ohm loads. assuming all these amps are trying to produce the same output power.
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i can see where you are coming from. it is nice however to have that option down the road if one chooses to upgrade. although its an option to get that second amp on a second sub instead of strapping them so perhaps strapping is a bit of a moot point. I for one like the idea of strapping given i already have an amp that if i find a second can net me far more bang for the buck and at 2ohm no less. i would like to keep my subs running at 2 ohm for the sheer efficiency of it on my electrical. that said perhaps it is time i buy a 6KW amp and that second SP4... options, options... part of me want to strap just so i can say ive done it, see how it all works, what the benefits/down falls are, ect. i like trying things i have not done before weather i need to or not.
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not so much of a praise as a convinenet feature. already owning an amp that can strap id like to just buy a second vs selling and buying a whole new amp setup. im going to check pricing tomorrow and see what i want to do. the new box i built for the SP4 makes it sound far better, more musical and linear in response curve.
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yea i know but still... gives me products and cars to work on as i get better. i spent a good deal of time chatting with the kicker guys at training. they pretty much agreed with how to set gains and such. our company still has a policy to use test tones and an oscope but the kicker guys some very good examples and graphics about testing amps, building them, speaker cooling, and gain setting. they played and showed a bunch of MP3 files that were already clipped, one was of the exact same song off the same album. one version was from 1980 and the other was off a CD bought at target. the 1980 version displayed a clean spectrum that perhaps was not as full as it could have been but it was certainly not clipped in the audio program. they then loaded the target version and it was just a solid square block of frequencies.... just a small fraction of the frequency scale was not shaded in by signals. pretty much exactly like i had found on my comp when i put in my own MP3's.
i also managed to get quite a few box building questions correct and it was a bit rewarding to do so in the direct conflict of information. such as sub sonic tuning to be done a few frequencies under the tuning frequency of the box as opposed to one half octave below like our shop teaches.
they also stressed to always use the customers music to set gains as test tones are "near worthless" in a customer install. they seemed to be damn near spot on to everything you have mentioned on here.
i still see strapping as a high end addon. amps like orion, PPI, the old KX, soundquebed, crescendo, and rockford powers are the likes of amps that have strapping support. to that end its always been advertised as a high end option.
oh, kicker also demonstrated how to clamp an amp to see how efficient it is and how much power its actually dealing out. much like the videos on youtube actually with the exception being there is an industrial grade resistor placed in the mix and some high end amp meters/volt meters.
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i dont see any reason why making an amp strap able is a bad idea. when its intended to be strapped you get a master and slave setup so as to keep everything in line. kicker simply went main stream as opposed to high end with their product design so in that light i suppose it does not make since to support strapping. its still something that id expect to see out of a high end company and its quite useful for higher power systems. only thing to support is proper power to the amps at that point.
the 18 we hooked up had more volume than our in store 15's but no where near my SP4, nor did it move anywhere near as much visually. the manager at my other store says he gets 2400W clean out of a 1000/1 slash and while i dont believe this (he swears he o scoped it as clean) i still expected 2 slashes to push it as well as my 2500.1. that said i dont know how damaged the sub or amps were, when it came into the shop one amp was wired in phase the other reversed so im sure that coil was hot as shit.
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last rockford training i had laid out some very kool stuff in there amps. i just had kicker training last week and apparently they have quite a bit of tech into there new KX series. i did give them hell about not allowing them to be straped like the old KX... apparently the new KX do not function like a normal amp, they use DC to DC on the power board, its never converted to AC untill it hits the output.
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this song gets blasted when it comes on
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if i can get a good enough deal through vendor acom with rockford's 2500W guys ill go that route and sell my viper but im not holding my breath. those rockford are expensive as hell.
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i actually bought a kicker 4 channel to run everything from so right now im not. i am considering trying to run another 2500W amp to the same sub (one on each coil). id probably never be able to get the voltage to match exactly across all the frequencies tho.
i would not be surprised if this amp could do 2800W clean at 2ohm, of couse that drops with the music but still. its a pretty beastly amp.
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the JL amps were only able to hit about 800W or so by voltage before the factory alternator dropped to 11.5V... i did a voltage match between the two amps to set gains, less about detecting distortion and more about matching output. the sub was in a 4.2 cubic box with 48 square inches of port area. not exactly optimal...
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yea i was looking at some of the AQ amps that can be strapped... thing is i already have half hte power i need and these vipers are strapable so.... yea... i got to play with a 18" BTL today but the guy only had 2 slash 1000/1 JL's. wired up 1 per coil but they could barely move the thing... made me realize just how much power you need to fully max out some of these subs. hell even mine starts to clip long before the sub shows any sign of maxing out and im sure this viper is dishing a good 2800W into it.
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got it. i would love to be able to find anohter 2500.1... baring htat i suppose i could get a second SP4 now and just buy a 6KW 1ohm stable amp and run with it...
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i thought the orion 2500D was a 1ohm amp for max power where as the DEI viper was a 2 ohm max power amp by PPI?
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bridged amp and effect on resistance
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Posted
i had that discussion, "i dont care if you dont believe it or if it does not makes sense to physics, that's the way it is" and the digging for books written in the 70's about audio began. mind you we were both unable to locate ANY supporting evidence to the claim that the "bridged speakers going to the bridged amp will lower the impedance"