Travo-18

Give me ur myspace addy and I can save your pics under my file and post them here if you want

Thats quite a small box for some 15's.. I would've at least doubled up the front baffle

You can register on photobucket.com and then upload your files to there and then copy and paste the image links to here and it will display them.. Kinda like this Just a reference

I played them a good week off and on and no rough play.. Just moderate volume and gains set with an o-scope

I say, if you dont have a woofer T/S meter and you really want to know the specs. Then go buy the Dayton WT3 woofer tester from partsexpress.com and fire away.. I have one and used it to get the specs off my BTL 15".. Then I built the box accordingly. They slam and in this vid you cant really pic up all the flex because my digital camera was a crappy wal-mart one.. Also the volume is only 1/2.

Well then I'd blame the enduser, because they should at least be able to smell coil burning and distortion in the speaker.. If they cant then they really need to re-think a proper setup

So then the enduser of the speaker doesn't have to build to recommended specs.. He can get his own Dayton Audio T/S meter and use the cook book to whip up his own box design.

Now remember, the way a woofer preforms is usually 80-90% enclosure and only 10-20% woofer... Any woofer can have great SQ if its in the right enclosure

To the OP Ill answer your quick little question and tell you they would be just fine off 2k daily with no problem.. I ran 3k daily to each of my 12's(older version) and I had great sound quality and I could still put up some fairly good numbers on the TermLab.. The only bad thing to describe and I hate doing it is SQ is different like a fingerprint to everybody.. What one thinks sounds like crap the other might think sounds the best he has ever heard. So I say get them and try them out.. If you dont like them you can sell them and try somethin else maybe the BL series

Not a chance! I've spoke with Scott about the 7 spider configuration a while ago and its capable of beeing done.. The reasoning for the 7 spiders was to keep the T/S within the same as pre-break in. And yes its going to be a daily 5k on each sub. Thats why I was questioning which would be better.. Which I will probably end up going with something else I'm just exploring my options.. And I've got some plans that only concerns me and if I want hearing damage than so be it! Im a bass head till I die and live in the middle of nowhere and I can do this everyday in my backyard

Yeah.. I was thinkin about those as well.. But Steve said the 12" models would be a little while longer than the 15" and 18".. I want to only do 12's

Well I figured after volt drop, imp rise and all the other factors roughly 4k~4.5kw.. So yea kinda sorta.. haha

I would like to know exactly what it takes on voltage wise and battery wise to run my 3000ds at .5ohm daily to my 2 15" BTL's. Or what would be the best way for me to go to get excellent power from them 3000's. Any input would be great, strapping or wiring to .5ohm since when you factor in imp rise and all that. Thanks everyone

Well thanks for the info! I already have what I think should be a sufficient battery bank. 1( soon to be 2) Deka intimidator 9A31's up front with 2 300amp alts and 6 Deka 9A31's in the rear. So I thinl i will just run each amp on each sub at 1ohm.

I already have my 15's but they are sold and Im fixing to buy a new pair, but before I do I need to make sure what the best route to go is so I can order the correct coil figuration from Scott. So I take it running each one at 1ohm to each 15" would be better than strapping the 2 for the pair?

why not do a blow throw? Much louoder and much cooler looking than a behind the seat setup

I sure hope you plan on doing some bracing between your strut towers or they could possibly cave inwards if you take a turn to fast or hit a bump hard... A miniature roll cage in there would be perfect... When I walled my friends Ford Taraus for 4 15's we cut just a little bit of his rear deck and we could tell a big difference driving, but know that we braced it with a mini roll cage it acts as a sway bar for the rear end, it don't move at all. I have seen soo many walls in cars done wrong to where they didn't brace anything and after they put everything in the strut towers caved in because of all the weight.

Sure do! They are 2 300amp alts from Motorcityreman.com

I'm very intrested in getting 2 3000ds and this would be my first time ever using Sundown and I will be only person within 150miles of me that will be running Sundown and from browsing the forums I see lots of reviews saying they are well under-rated and they put out 3000+true rms @ 1ohm and 14.4volts. I have a damn good eletrical and I can keep my voltage at 14.36v to 14.48v at full tilt. So if anyone can tell me the actual power @ 1ohm and 14.4volts a 3000D can put out, I would really appreciate it. Thanks

So is it around 3400rms or 4000rms? The one tests says it was rated 3938 @ 85%effciency but that was with 16.5volts being ran to it but to consider it a 14.5v test, how in the hell is that a test for 14.5v when 16.5v was being powered to it. I know the voltage drop was probably to 14.4v but that still isn't considered a 14.4v test when it has 16.5v of current to back it up.......?? I'm confused.... And I do have the electrical to back it up and maintain a 14.4volts at full tilt when I had my 4 kicker ZX2500.1's which was in total about 10K rms I could stay at 14.3v at full tilt daily

Thump Thump

Is that supposed to be some form of sarcasm?.....Very Immature "bigon"

I live in Colorado Springs dude.... I want to see that setup, it's been a while since I have heard some decent 18's.. I got 2 15" BTL's in a cut-through in my pick-up

I hope you have better luck with that FatMat than I did.. It wouldn't stay put after a couple days and tends to peel itself off

I have a few, I don't need anymore