KU40

Well even if it does go all the way through at some point, you can still patch the surround without getting a recone or anything like that. If it ever happens, just do a search for how people repaired holes in their surrounds from poking it with a screwdriver while installing the sub. Believe me, there have been a million threads about it. However, I think it'll be fine and nothing will ever happen.

Rode my bike to the gym today, 1.5 miles each way. lat pulldown with close grip handles dumbbell curls outside shoulder raises deadlift overhand grip bicep curls on cable machine lat/back shoulder pull/extension on cable machine ab stuff

I'd get an XCON.

It shouldn't. But check periodically for signs that it advanced all the way through from playing. Unless you want to take up a claim with UPS now, but from what I hear you'll waste a lot of time and effort and likely won't get anything from it.

Since it makes the rattle free air also, it's likely something is damaged.

I wouldn't wire an EQ's power to a relay. Wire that straight to the battery (with a fuse). The turn-on for the EQ can be on a relay, though, and I'd recommend hooking up the amps remote to that relay also.

Didn't get to work out last week since I was gone all week for work. Today I got asked to substitute on a softball team while on my way to the gym, so I had to really cut short my workout. All I did was incline leg press, weighted calf raises, hack squat, and one set of each pushups, pullups, and abs. Should be able to get back on a regular workout schedule now that I shouldn't be going away for work for the next 3-4 weeks. My gf and I are going to train to run a 5k or 8k race coming up in about 2 months. I just wanted to do a 5k because I don't want to lose as much weight as I know training for an 8k would do to me. I can already run 5k pretty easily so that's not a problem.

FYI, I merged all of your topics on this issue. Didn't want to lose posts already in each thread.

Caught a 20", maybe ~3 lb rainbow trout this weekend. It was awesome. Took me probably 5-6 minutes to get him in because I was using 4 lb test and I didn't want to lose him. Biggest rainbow I have ever seen (in person), let alone caught. Unfortunately he was smack dab in the middle of the rule about not being able to keep rainbows between 18" and 22" out of this lake. Oh well, still fun to catch him. if my sister-in-law gets the pictures up from the trip, I'll post one. I caught 5 fish over the weekend I believe, out of the 9 or so total that my group caught. We grilled some on sunday night and they were delicious. Overall a good trip, just too short. Drove around too much and didn't have enough just relax time at the campsite since we only stayed one night. But still awesome fishing for the most part. Except the Laramie River, that was a huge disappointment. I love stream trout fishing but we went there thinking it was an actual river, when in actuality I could jump across it in some areas and it should have been called a creek. Most of it was only about 10' wide and very shallow. No trout in there (well, I caught a 6" brook trout, but that may have been the only fish in there). Bummer. We wasted half a day exploring it.

Booo. Jesus KU sucks apparently. I didn't get to watch the game, now I'm glad I didn't. They're going to score 12 points all year at this rate.

One reason why many people on here don't recommend using 0 db tones. Not much music, if any, is recorded that high. Just set the gain with your ear, or if you want to check for clipping, with an oscope. Also, turning up the level controller on the head unit is basically the same thing as turning up the gain on the amp, just in reverse order. Instead of increasing the gain to match a lower signal voltage, you're increasing signal voltage to match a lower gain.

Read your owner's manual on the amps for how to link/strap them.

Gone all week for work (last week too). Now I'm about to go to Colorado to do some trout fishing. Yay vacation!

It's good to test, but if you want it to really be a valid test between drivers you need to use the same power for all.

Sounds like an alternator problem.

Oh yeah, don't need to remove anything. I saw the pose about removing the power wire and the reply about which one and just replied to that, totally forgetting the original reason. Don't need to remove the power wire just for a fuse on the amp.

I can tell you that without a doubt a much larger impact on frequency response will be the change in drivers themselves. You wouldn't know how the xcons sound on 32 hz anyways, so you wouldn't know what to compare to, apples to apples. If you want to see what that frequency change will do to the same driver, model one in winISD or something like that. Chances are it'll show you all frequencies are within 1 maybe 1.5 db of each other between boxes tuned to 30 and 32 hz.

Actually I'd disconnect the negative from the battery terminal or remove the inline fuse next to the battery for the power wire. If you still have a live power wire and try to plug it back into the amplifier and accidentally touch the case of the amp, you can blow the amp.

"don't like just doing RMS power." Why not? That's why they are rated there. More power can damage the driver more easily. Headroom is nice, but there becomes a point of overkill. Besides, are you going to clamp the amp to see how much it's actually putting out? If not, any answer here is meaningless. It doesn't matter if we tell you 1000 watts or 1500 watts, you won't know what your amp is actually putting out anyways.

They've probably never heard of it and just trying to sell their own stuff. No reason to get offended, it's just what all shops do.

Does the car have premium sound? If so, hooking up speaker wires from the head unit to the factory speaker wires won't work, because the factory wires are just signal wires to the factory amps, and they usually need a low-level signal. Speaker wire outputs on an aftermarket head unit are high-level. If plugging the factory speakers straight to the head unit with new wires works, that's the problem. By running new wires you'll be bypassing the factory amps.

No real difference between welding wire and regular car audio power wire other than the price, mainly. Doesn't really matter what you use, just as long as you use enough wire. By that I mean enough runs of large enough wire to handle the current load you will have. 2 runs of 3/0 should be sufficient, doesn't matter if it's welding wire or car audio wire.

Forgot to post lately. Though I did have to take about 5 days off this week because of out of town work and didn't work out last weekend. Yesterday was biceps/back Isolat pulldown dumbbell curls bent over row barbell curls A few pullups Bent over back raises Shoulder lift w. dumbbells out and forward barbell pullup (shoulder lift) Ab work Today I ran 2 miles w. the gf.

I hate to burst your bubble, but that amp is not that special in terms of efficiency. Basically all class D amps such as that one are 70-80% efficient. Some amps are even in the 80s. If you're comparing that amp to a class A/B amp, such as most 2 and 4 channels are, then yeah it looks good because those are usually only 50-60% efficient. But you need to compare apples to apples here. To give you an example, here is the new Sundown SAX-1200D, it's listed as 86% efficient: Sundown Audio - SAX-1200D

dual 1 ohm wired in series/parallel. Final impedance read 1 ohm on my DMM Oh yeah, SSDs only come in dual 1 or dual 2, don't they? Silly me. It does kinda sound like a head unit problem, but since it came out of protection when you put it on ipod but it still had no bass output, that's not so promising. Try hooking the DMM up to the RCAs to see what the voltage is like coming down them.