KU40

I had an install already with a ma amp and hifonics amp and everything was fine. I swapped out those two amps for a jl 300/4 and the mmats amp and added the btl. A good test might be to run a different speaker at 1 ohm and see if there is a problem or run the btl on someone else s amp to see if that's the problem. What do you think? Yeah that would be a good test. Just make sure the new sub can handle the full output of the amp, or at least most of it, so that you can run it decently hard to see if it will cut out. But you don't want to blow the test speaker, obviously. That would suck. When you tested the sub's voice coils, did you test each coil by itself or did you already have them wired together then tested the speaker wire from both? You might try testing each coil by itself. You may have one bad coil and one good coil, and the DMM would only pick up the good coil. You say you had it wired to 2 ohms on another speaker and it was no problem. That kinda leads me to think there may be something wrong with the amp running at 1 ohm. Maybe it's finicky. But yeah, also try out your wild beast subs on there at 1 ohm.

WinISD only calculates square ports not slot ports.. they're different. What do you mean? When you click on the circle under vents to change it to a square, it gives you two input boxes for port area dimensions. You can put 2 and 10 in either of them or whatever, you don't have to keep both the same. If you're talking about using one side of the box and calling that a slot port, well then you still could say that a square port could be a slot port because you can use one side of the box for a square port too. In that case Bromo talked about how to adjust.

I deleted your other thread and moved this one into the Incriminator forum. No need for two.

My brother, two of his friends, and I at Halloween like 5 years ago.

Full story on replacing the front axles last weekend with my dad. I did the oil change first, no biggie. I use Valvoline Max Life 5w-30. It seems pretty good. My dad surprised me when we started by saying that he had never done this before. He went to school for a while to be a diesel mechanic and has worked at his tire/automotive shop for 20 years and grew up on a farm. I figured he had. Guess not. Anyways, it's not terribly difficult anyways. We took off the brake calipers, but then were stuck about what to take off next without tearing the whole front end apart. We tried just slipping the lower ball joint bolt out, but it didn't give us quite enough reach. So we ended having to take off the upper ball joint bolt and popping that out. Then we got the hub to swing out to the side and could pull the axle out. No problem. I found out my oil seals down there were leaking, so we popped them off and ordered new ones. They came, and I grabbed one and gave it to him to put in but it was too big. Dang, so we went back to the parts shop just before they closed. They looked around for 5 minutes but couldn't figure it out, then another guy chimed in and said each side of the differential had a different size of seal. We pulled them out of the box, and sure enough, one was bigger than the other. Thanks, Ford. 15 minutes wasted. So we go back and put the correct one in, then go to put the new axle in but it gets stuck halfway in. We though it was just tight so my dad tapped on it with a rubber mallet, but it still wouldn't go. Pulled it out and found the problem. A little clip on the end was loose and had jammed up against the splines and dug in a little, pushing some metal up and out. Luckily it didn't mess them up terribly bad, we just used a metal file and filed the splines back down to even. But the clip was fubar'd, so we stole the one off of the old axle and used it. Went in just right this time. Put the front end back together and figured now that we knew what we were doing, we'd fly through the passenger side. We did in taking it off, but then putting the new oil seal in another problem occurred. The seal bent because it wasn't going in correctly. Great. Called the auto parts store, they had no more left. Luckily the other parts store in town had one left. So we got it, knowing we couldn't mess it up. Luckily it went in right. So then we put it all back together and called it good, happy to be done since it had taken us like 4 hours. But then on my way home the front end was making weird noises. A high pitched whine, and another strange thing that sounded like gears ramping up when I came to a stop, then they slowly died down after I stopped. And my ABS light was on. Called my dad, and went over to his house to have him listen. While I was driving over he did online research and found a tutorial with big bold letters that said DO NOT TIGHTEN THE HUB NUT WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH, IT WILL RUIN THE BEARINGS. Well, guess what he had done. I thought about replacing the bearings while we had it all apart anyways, but when we took them off while replacing the axles they spun perfectly, so we figured there was no need to spend the $80 per hub. But.....now we did. Luckily the parts store was open for 20 more minutes, so we went and got some and replaced them. And yep, now there was a little resistance hitch in their turning. Pretty sure that whole job shouldn't have taken 6 hours, but that's what it did for us. I still get a bit of that high pitched squeak, but we think that's just from the new axle seals on the inside of the hub. The tutorial said many people rub those with vasoline to stop that from happening, but we didn't. Hopefully it will wear itself in and stop.

My dad and I replaced my front axles this last weekend and overtightened the nut that holds the wheel bearing hub on, and it tripped my ABS light. Had to replace the bearings.

Xanax? lol Was on that about 8 years ago. I don't like pills and I see medicine as an excuse to be lazy and take care of yourself. Too much of the time, x2.

I take it you have dual 4 ohm SSDs?

I'm going to move this thread to the automotive section since it doesn't deal with Fi.

ah ok. Well good then. Stupid shops.

No actually he is running 2 D4 subs, each wired to 2 ohms going into its own channel. I thought the amp wasn't meant for a 2 ohm load at mono.......just stereo, which in this case you might have it at mono.... No, he doesn't. Each sub is wired to its own channel on the amp. The amp is not bridged to mono. Check the DCR of the subs with a multimeter, make sure the coils read correctly. Also make sure there are no shorts in the speaker wire anywhere.

Glad it's Friday, but I'm draggin. Just not very inspired lately.

You need to stop using the word clip to describe your situation. Your amp is not clipping, it is cutting out. Clipping describes a different situation where the output signal is still on, the amplitude is just limited and clipped off at the peaks and valleys due to the constraints of the amplifier. Cutting out is when the amp goes into protection or stops outputting a signal for some reason. Start taking things out of the signal chain. If you have a line driver, take that out and wire the amp straight to the head unit. See if it still cuts out. If so, take the head unit out of the signal chain by using a different source, such as wiring an mp3 player straight to the amp, and see if it still cuts out then. Also check your connections everywhere and make sure speaker wires aren't touching together anywhere, speaker wires aren't touching the basket of the sub, or there are any other shorts in the power, ground, remote, etc. wires.

Does the sub have a vented pole piece? Are you playing it free air sitting flat on a surface? If it does have a vented pole, you shouldn't play it free air laying flat on its backplate because the ground then plugs the pole piece, and the air that is supposed to flow out the pole can't anymore, so it goes up and gets pushed out somewhere else. This can make a popping noise. But in your other thread you mentioned that it had a bad coil. Did the previous owner tell you it did? If so, it probably does and it probably does just need a recone. Having DCR readings above the nominal impedance is unusual. There seems to be something amiss.

The best way to get power is straight from the battery, and most amplifiers need a good-sized power wire, most several sizes larger than any size that the vehicle manufacturer would put in when building the car. You also don't want to tap into a wire designed for use by some other piece of factory equipment, because the manufacturer picked the wire size based on the power needs of that one piece of factory equipment. If you add something to that circuit, you'll likely overload the wire. You really need to run a new power wire for anything new you put into the vehicle.

That's just the issue with most high output alternators vs. stock ones. Stock alternators are built to put out a higher percentage of their max amperage at idle, since when you just drive around like most people do, you idle a lot. Most high output alternators are made to put out their most juice at a higher RPM (under higher engine stress situations), but often that's at the expense of idle amperage output. I've seen graphs of stock vs. high output alts and the stock one would put out, say, 80 amps at idle and 120 amps at 3,000 RPM. The high output alt would only put out 50 amps at idle but 200 amps at 3,000 RPM.

No, when you check DCR it's 1.4-1.5 per coil and .8 in parallel. At idle you need more amps from the alternator. Batteries mainly only help when the voltage from the alternator dips to their resting voltage, which is likely around 12.3, which is why the voltage stops dropping there.

Today I was kinda in a rush so cut down the number of lifts, though did 4 sets of 8-10 each. Bench press Tricep push-downs shoulder shrugs incline bench w. dumbbells tricep dips pushups ab stuff

Also, I found a decent page with various exercises. Exercise & Muscle Directory

Yesterday was legs day. I really suck at legs. Part of it is the two months I had to take off of legs for my knee to heal but still did upper body, but my reps with bench press and squat use basically the same weight. I don't think that's right. But I'm not sure what if anything I can do about it, I've just always had skinny legs. Sometimes I don't feel that I'm getting stronger like I should with the amount of work I put in. Am I doing too much cardio and limiting my strength improvement? The problem is I want both, because I want to be able to play the entire basketball game and lead a lot of fast breaks and things, so I need to be in good cardio shape as well.

You mean 1 ohm. You can't wire a dual 2 ohm sub to 0.8 ohm unless you're talking about the DCR of the sub, in which case saying it's dual 2 ohm isn't right either. You're mixing impedance and resistance. Different box design. You're going about this the wrong way. The amp responds to what the sub is telling it, not vice versa. Final Impedance of the sub is a function of the driver and the box. The amp has nothing to do with it. If the sub tells your amp I'm 2 ohms at 50 hz, the amp will respond accordingly and send a certain voltage and amps (together equaling power). If you send the sub a 30 hz signal, the sub will tell the amp a different impedance number and the amp will then put out a certain voltage and amp amount. The best thing you can do to maximize power from the amplifier standpoint is supply it with enough power from the electrical system. The more power you put in, the more you can get out.

Used to use one before I got a head unit with a dedicated sub RCA output and sub level setting. Now I just use that. Same thing.

You already have a larger wire in your car for grounding purposes, it's called your frame. The battery is hooked up to it as well. May as well use it.

It's not true. If your subs are bottoming out when the hatch is opened, the gain is up too high. They probably just think opening the hatch is causing them to bottom out because they can't hear it happening while they're sitting inside or something.

Man, that's a lot of protein.