Thumpper
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Posts posted by Thumpper
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When you flare the port out like that, do you measure the length of the port the same? or from the start of the flare or what? Always wondered that.Also, Just curious, when you are building a smaller airspace box, does the port have to be longer for a certain frequency than a larger box? My box has a large opening, but according with WINISD the length was very short and the box was 10cubes.
I have a formula I use for my port flares
and the port length will change with more or less port area..I build all my
enclosures with a low percentage of port velocity so the ports always
end up big azz
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a few more coats and some curing time it'll be
wrapped in carpet
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all cleaned up and asssembled
Ya..they come in different sizes [
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there is still some glue sticking out of the seems and the top needs to be attached
but here she be I'll finish it off tomorrow
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what does it Meter @ ???i need a table saw
Great build
I'm not shure if he will compete with this box at all so it may
never get metered
it is tuned at 32hz..more of an SQ configuration than anything
but it will be damn loud
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dayton audio solder, hmmmmm niftythe stuff is awsome,it has a good % of silver in it..the only
problem is it has a very high melting temp...you NEED a really
good soldiering gun for this stuff
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completed and ready to ship
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this is a seperate chamber enclosure for a pair
of T112D4 subs 2.0cf3 per chamber plus
sub,port and corner displacement
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will all of that internal bracing affect the turbulance in the air flow ???yes it does....it effects the airflow to and from the port and also
effects the way the woofer CUPS the inner cf3
his build quality is top notch though
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this one is basically done...
all I need is to silver soldier the pure OFC
leads to the terminal cup and screw it in
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wow...that's phenomenal work...i love the mdf flares...i think i need a lot more building experience before i ever try anything like that
thanx....
BTW I love your avitar....it's always been a dream of mine to be raped
by a couple of HOT lezbians!!!!!!!!!!!
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here is the inner Kerf..full of resin and filled
like a nice smooth 45*
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anyways this is how I make my flares nice and solid
I use the holes to take advantage of
capillary attraction..the resin gets drawn in thru the
slits and the air bubbles come out thru the holes...
this ensures that the kerfs are 100% filled and rock
solid once the resin cures....
works better than any other way...glue shrinks and
leaves voids in the kerfs..this way does not[
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wow, looks great all finished. you must have a ton of wood working experience....great jobthanx...
on the average I build 1 to 2 enclosures a week and have been doing so
since 1985...more than I care to remember but it keeps me out of trouble
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here is some buld pics for an enclosure for
a RF T212D4...built to RF's Powerfull Enclosure
specks (2.25cf3 plus sub,port,corner displacement)
and tuned at 32hz
I hate MDF dust...had a lung infection from the stuff
last spring so I don't take any chances anymore
one of the little tweeks I have been working on....
it will all make sense in the end
no 90* edges..all 45* and will be sanded perfectly smooth
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got the BPX 2200.1 and the GTO 75.4 inverted on the ceiling
above the rear seats.
now I got room for the 4 woofer enclosure and things are starting to
look alot cleaner...when I strip the interior in the spring to Dynamat
I will be replacing all the power wire and RCA's as well as adding
a capacitor, digital distribution block and a second battery
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Basically, what I'm saying....Use one tweeter.
I doubt the deck you have has the necessary time alignment functions to make that setup "really" sound good.
actually yes it does....I found time today to do some fine tunning...there is a time
alignment adjustment for every RCA out...
I set the automatic time alignment and also did a custom setting
once again with each set on it's own and with both and even played with the
auto eq....
so far I'm really liking this head unit
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I took out the plastic tool box thingy behind the rear seats of the Quad Cab...
not much room and the rear wall has a channel brace and tie down loops... :?
remove the tie down loops...
space is an issuue but he wants this system to pound....he will probably
be running ab out 2400w rms
a little test fit....
the rear seats will be getting custom brackets...they will be shifted forward and up....
there will be a 4" PVC port coming out each end of the enclosure down low by the floor
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Impossible for a 10 to hit the lows
in General Audio
Posted · Edited by SSaudio
emeded youtube.
LMAO...I can NAIL 10hz with my 10" subs and flex the tops
of my doors with notes from 10hz to 20hz with ease...
here is Video of one of my Test Boxes with a 10" woofer in it
MUgjacrYXt4
here is some door flex with the same 10" woofer
dW0pfBQPJGY
I have been able to nail 10hz with every system I have owned
I was running this 10" sub with 1.60cf3 plus sub snad port displacement
and 2400w rm