-
Content Count
1,484 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
28
Posts posted by Thumpper
-
-
-
-
anyways...someone from Georgia decided to scoop up my domain name after it expired
and he wanted a retarded amount of money for it so I lost the .com and had to
settle for .net ...LOL
website is back up and it will be updated little by little over the next couple weeks
for the guys that sent me pm's
I should be frozen out and laid off shortly so I will get to them
0 -
it's a Steel City hybrid saw...10" bade and 15 amps
I had to custom order to get the full sized cast top...one heavy mofo
0 -
-
I have read everything there is on damping factor...all the stuff for it and against it
all you have shown me is something I read back in the early 80's
no offence but I believe techs from Companies like Crown over your opinion ( not fact )
they revolve their amp design around achieving a high damping factor and their
amps are some of the tightest sounding around..they like other companies that brag
about high damping do it for a reason
BTW...I have a real tube amp and no they do not have a high damping....it sounds really
good and smooth but it is no where near as tight as the YBA sitting beside it with a damping of 3000
not even close unless you are completely deaf
0 -
I can tell 20 seconds into a song if the amps have a high effective damping or not
I have had pages of discussion about damping factor since the very first car audio forum
when the internet started....not worth arguing about because opinions are like buttholes....we all got one
all I can say is there is no room in my system for an amp with a low damping factor...I am way
to picky in listening for those micro details hidden in the bass and I like it TIGHT
I always go for the highest damping factor I can afford.. use short wire runs of thick gage pure OFC
and my systems always sound tighter and more controlled than the systems owned by those who think
DF doesn't matter...first comment I always get is how tight it sounds.......just the way it is I guess....LOL
anyways..... to the OP
seriously....try a BPX 2200.1 if you can find one...you won't regret it
I had four of them along with the big brother A3000gti and wish I still had them
0 -
if you are looking to buy used go to E-Bay and hunt down a JBL/Crown BPX-2200.1
it will give you flexibility of getting full power from 4ohm down to 1 ohm and
those things have current servo's with an effective damping factor almost 50 times
higher than the amps you have already discussed...tighter bass
it"s what I would buy if I was going used , those amps are awsome
1 -
the Icon is more of an SQ sub.....personally I would not tune it any higher than 33hz
I have had a 12" Icon on 500w rms in a buddies truck and it moved good...
took a while to break in but IMO the Icon is one of the nicest sounding subs on the market
1 -
well it"s been about 5 years since I had to pack it in but it looks like I am going to
live long enough to retire an old man that drives around communicating with whales
and continuing my therapy with 5 finger death punch
anyways,I will be building enclosures for locals and for pick up...I might ship across Canada
but one thing I will NOT ever do again is ship to the US unless the customer takes care
of ALL aspects of shipping... I figure the last year I was shipping to the US I ended up
building every enclosure for basically free with all the after charges I got nailed with
by the shipping companies...some of the shipping bills doubled from the original quotes
BTW....I still have absolutely no desire to design enclosures I do not build so please no design requests
1 -
still stuck in Kelowna BC welding on Fortis natural gas distribution pipelines...
that is going to change soon though , I miss car audio and see more MDF dust in the future
0 -
nice craftsmanship but ditch that screen door bracing
with over 3000 enclosure builds under my belt I have done extensive testing with
all types of configurations of bracing...got some completely mind boggling numbers
on the termlab right down to 10hz when it is done right
that bracing is more than enough resistance to stop the woofer from cupping 100%
of the enclosures internal volume ,that could cost someone that .6db they need to win or the
deep low end extension some people need to communicate with whales ( like myself )
screen door bracing changes the EFFECTIVE internal CF3 and if it is bad enough it can
also effect tuning....I have seen some SPECTACULAR screen door bracing that looks really cool
but if you run bracing IN LINE with the air movement to and from the woofer and the port the woofer
can CUP all the internal CF3 giving you max efficiency and performance of the enclosure
0 -
Some of my all time favorite drivers!
Nice work!
I forgot how good the HX2's sound...
Rockford Fosgate did a big boo boo replacing them with the T series IMO
0 -
I just use wood glue
the kerfing was fun with the skill saw.....LOL
I'm really happy with the final result... very good out put
for being a single 12" tuned so low
0 -
this one is 2.0 cf3 tuned at 30hz
0 -
-
-
-
-
it is possible
I hit 149db with a single Orion HCCA 12" woofer with a Crown A3000gti amp
in a chevy x cab....if we had a hatchback I bet we could have added 3db
take in mind there were 2 alternators and 4 batteries as well as weeks worth
of tuning and moving the box around.....(it was a 44hz burp box)
the vehicle also needs to be properly sound deadened
1 -
great deal....this cone kit has been sitting in the original box
it was shipped to me in so it does not even have any dust on it
0 -
as the title states....I have a single 12" Icon dual 2 ohm rebuild kit ( with out the dust cap )
I have no use for it so it might as well go to someone who will .......first $50 takes it .... shipped via USPS
0 -
wow......
this is a retarded thread
it depends on the vehicle , amount of room for the enclosure and is there
room for the enclosure to unload properly....how much power ????
realistically I can make a pair of 10" woofers destroy a couple of 12" or a 15"
in the right environment for DIGGING low notes.... you would easily hear them hammering
and rumbling from a few blocks away....and sound good doing it
not enough info in this thread to give an answer
just remember if you do not have the room to do it right trying to go big will cost you performance
but if it was my choice I would try and make two 12" work...(if there was enough room)
0 -
never to many drivers....one set of tweeters , one set of mids and double mid bass on
the front stage is similar to what I had in my last system ....it sounded awsome
nothing going in the back seat..... there will be a tweeter and a 4.5" mid for each rear shock tower
so the rear seats have some top end and for when the hatch is open
the subs are going in the rear corners ...the ports will take up a lot of room to achieve
my port velocity target ...this has to be done with out getting in the way of the floor
panel folding up for axcess to the amps,battery and spare tire
not to mention I have to figure out where to put the bit one and extra battery
0
A Little warm up project
in Pound That Sound
Posted · Edited by Thumpper
got the fiberglass done , drop on the top with a bit of sanding and I will
no longer have to listen to that Rockford Punch HX2 anymore ( thank gawwd ....LOL )
listening to that thing bang for a year was almost painfull