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Thumpper

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Posts posted by Thumpper


  1. got the fiberglass  done , drop on the top with a bit of sanding and I will

    no longer have to listen to that Rockford Punch HX2 anymore ( thank gawwd ....LOL )

    listening to that thing bang for a year was almost painfull

     

    DSCN1315

    DSCN1320


  2.  anyways...someone from Georgia decided to scoop up my domain name after it expired

    and he wanted a retarded amount of money for it so I lost the .com and had to

    settle for .net ...LOL

     

    website is back up and it will be updated little by little over the next couple weeks

     

     

    for the guys that sent me pm's

    I should be frozen out and laid off shortly so I will get to them


  3. I have read everything there is on damping factor...all the stuff for it and against it

    all you have shown me is something I read back in the early 80's

     

    no offence but I believe techs from Companies like Crown over your opinion ( not fact )

    they revolve their amp design around achieving a high damping factor and their

    amps are some of the tightest sounding around..they like other companies that brag

    about high damping do it for a reason

     

    BTW...I have a real tube amp and no they do not have a high damping....it sounds really

    good and smooth but it is no where near as tight as the YBA sitting beside it with a damping of 3000

    not even close unless you are completely deaf


  4. I can tell 20 seconds into a song if the amps have a high effective damping or not

     

    I have had pages of discussion about damping factor since the very first car audio forum

    when the internet started....not worth arguing about because opinions are like buttholes....we all got one

     all I can say is there is no room in my system for an amp with a low damping factor...I am way

    to picky in listening for those micro details hidden in the bass and I like it TIGHT

    I always go for the highest damping factor I can afford.. use short wire runs of thick gage pure OFC

     and my systems always sound tighter and more controlled than the systems owned by those who think

    DF doesn't matter...first comment I always get is how tight it sounds.......just the way it is I guess....LOL

     

     

    anyways..... to the OP

     

    seriously....try a BPX 2200.1 if you can find one...you won't regret it

    I had four of them along with the big brother A3000gti  and wish I still had them


  5. if you are looking to buy used go to E-Bay and hunt down a JBL/Crown BPX-2200.1

    it will give you flexibility of getting full power from 4ohm down to 1 ohm and

    those things have current servo's with an effective damping factor almost 50 times

    higher than the amps you have already discussed...tighter bass

     

    it"s what I would buy if I was going used  , those amps are awsome


  6. the Icon is more of an SQ sub.....personally I would not tune it any higher than 33hz

     

    I have had a 12" Icon on 500w rms in a buddies truck and it moved good...

    took a while to break in but IMO the Icon is one of the nicest sounding subs on the market


  7. well it"s been about 5 years since I had to pack it in but it looks like I am going to

    live long enough to retire an old man that drives around communicating with whales

    and continuing my therapy with 5 finger death punch 

     

    anyways,I will be building enclosures for locals and for pick up...I might ship across Canada

    but one thing I will NOT ever do again is ship to the US unless the customer takes care

    of ALL aspects of shipping... I figure the last year I was shipping to the US I ended up

    building every enclosure for basically free with all the after charges I got nailed with

    by the shipping companies...some of the shipping bills doubled from the original quotes

     

    BTW....I still have absolutely no desire to design enclosures I do not build so please no design requests

     

     


  8. nice craftsmanship but ditch that screen door bracing

    with over 3000 enclosure builds under my belt I have done extensive testing with

    all types of configurations of bracing...got some completely mind boggling numbers

    on the termlab right down to 10hz when it is done right

     

    that bracing is more than enough resistance to stop the woofer from cupping 100%

    of the enclosures internal volume ,that could cost someone that .6db they need to win or the

    deep low end extension some people need to communicate with whales ( like myself )

     

    screen door bracing changes the EFFECTIVE internal CF3 and if it is bad enough it can

    also effect tuning....I have seen some SPECTACULAR screen door bracing that looks really cool

    but if you run bracing IN LINE with the air movement to and from the woofer and the port the woofer

    can CUP all the internal CF3 giving you max efficiency and performance of the enclosure


  9. it is possible

     

    I hit 149db with a single Orion HCCA 12" woofer with a Crown A3000gti amp

    in a chevy x cab....if we had a hatchback I bet we could have added 3db

     

    take in mind there were 2 alternators and 4 batteries as well as weeks worth

    of tuning and moving the box around.....(it was a 44hz burp box)

    the vehicle also needs to be properly sound deadened


  10. wow......

    this is a retarded thread

    it depends on the vehicle , amount of room for the enclosure and is there

    room for the enclosure to unload properly....how much power ????

    realistically I can make a pair of 10" woofers destroy a couple of 12" or a 15"

    in the right environment for DIGGING low notes.... you would easily hear them hammering

    and rumbling from a few blocks away....and sound good doing it

    not enough info in this thread to give an answer

    just remember if you do not have the room to do it right trying to go big will cost you performance

    but if it was my choice I would try and make two 12" work...(if there was enough room)


  11. never to many drivers....one set of tweeters , one set of mids and double mid bass on

    the front stage is similar to what I had in my last system ....it sounded awsome

     

    nothing going in the back seat.....  there will be a tweeter and a 4.5" mid for each rear shock tower

    so the rear seats have some top end and for when the hatch is open

     

    the subs are going in the rear corners ...the ports will take up a lot of room to achieve

    my port velocity target ...this has to be done with out getting in the way of the floor

    panel folding up for axcess to the amps,battery and spare tire

    not to mention I have to figure out where to put the bit one and extra battery

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